The different designs are differentiated by being a different "model" or "series." Confusing the issue even more, some manufacturers "private label" their machines for large department stores. If you do not read Chapter 2 thoroughly before you read this chapter, you probably will not be able to properly diagnose your machine!!!!In 1995, GE began manufacturing a new washing machine. Such as Sears' Kenmore and Montgomery Ward's Signature machines. Check the following list to determine if you have one of these "cross-branded" machines. Intermittent wipers and working factory tach.A  Clock is not working but fuel gauge and temp are working as they should.A A SPOT WELDS SHOWING! They are commonly referred to as the "front-access" or "easy-access" machines, or simply the "new-style" GE washer, versus the "old-style" machine.
They are known in the parts houses as "Whirlpool belt-drive" models. In the early 80's, Whirlpool began manufacturing their "Design 2000" washers. A You can do this for free if you buy a parts Jeep and do it yourself as people want the Auto trans and pedals etc. The basket is attached directly to the transmission, which itself spins during the spin cycle. When the motor stops or reverses, a brake attached to the bottom of the transmission engages, keeping the transmission from turning during agitation. These machines were sold as GE, Hotpoint, and "private-labelled" as JC Penney and Penncrest brands. In 1995, GE started making a new "front access" washing machine. Unlike the old model, there is no rear access panel on these machines; all the machine internals are accessed through the front. Flexible fins on the agitator circulate water in the tub and through the self-cleaning lint filter in the basket hub. One of the features is that the drive motor does not drive the pump. The drain pump in these machines is a separate unit with its' own motor. The suspension in these machines is reported to be VERY good. Rudy's personal 1985 Trail Jeep CJ7 83 Rot Free Jeep Scrambler in original paint 86 Jeep CJ7 Automatic Rot Free builder from California $6500.00 83 Jeep CJ7 Renegade Original Paint 97k Miles $7500 Clean 84 Jeep CJ-7 Only 89k Original Miles.
In one videotaped demo I saw, they put eight pounds of phone books in the machine during the spin cycle and the thing barely vibrated. WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands. In fact, if the washer is dancing around during the spin cycle, whoever installed the machine probably forgot to remove the suspension rod, inserted to keep the tub from moving during shipping. Frankly, these washers were pretty poorly designed, displaying major oil and water leakage within five years. In the '90's, WCI was bought by Swedish giant Electrolux, who changed the company name back to the Frigidaire Home Products Company. The washer will not agitate, drain or spin with the lid open. 2) There is a pre-pump function built into the water level switch. The water level must be quite low before the water level switch will allow the basket to start spinning. Most of the parts on these machines are designed to be thrown away. The triangle bracket that holds it on is a separate item and is very difficult to get off the hose. The orbital machine, manufactured since the late '80's, is a "Newton" machine with a redesigned "orbital" transmission with only six moving parts.
Replace the pump. Another common complaint is that water mysteriously leaks during the agitate cycle.
The "orbital" transmissions are interchangeable with the pre-1980's so-called "counterweight" transmissions. Desert Jeep ONLY $8000.00 84 Rot free desert Scrambler $7500 2 Rot Free Desert Laredos $6500 Each 82 Jeep CJ7 Laredo Seriously modified and upgraded rot free western Jeep! What is happening is that the lower transmission ball bearings are worn so the brake is not engaging fully. Unlike the counterweight machine, the gearing in the orbital transmission can be serviced without removing the transmission from the machine.1-2 BEFORE YOU STARTFind yourself a good appliance parts dealer.
The basket then spins during the agitate cycle and and slings water over the edge of the tub. You can find them in the Yellow Pages under the following headings:APPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, MAJORAPPLIANCES, PARTS AND SUPPLIESREFRIGERATORS, DOMESTICAPPLIANCES, HOUSEHOLD, REPAIR AND SERVICECall a few of them and ask if they are a repair service, or if they sell parts, or both. 1982 Scrambler builder project 85 Rot Free Jeep CJ7 in red paint with only 69,000 miles $10,000 One Owner, Original Paint Scrambler from Vegas $15,000 Beautiful 82 CJ7 from California Rebuilt Engine, Trans w Fuel Inj $9000 82 Scrambler in original paint.
If it turns easily by hand but won't drain the tub, replace the whole pump and motor assembly. They'll tell you it's too complicated, then in the same breath, "guide" you to their service department. Besides the fact that bleach is very hard on plastic and rubber parts, such as the hose itself, the hose chafes on one of the suspension rods until a hole develops. They should contain the model number SOMEWHERE. If you have absolutely NO information about the washer anywhere, make sure you bring your old part to the parts store with you.


Sometimes they can match an old part by looks or by part number.1-3 TOOLS (Figure 1-2)The tools that you may need (depending on the diagnosis) are listed below.
The problem here is that the clutch pulley is pressed together and the top half of it comes off.
Obviously the machine does not agitate or spin. Another problem experienced, though it doesn't appear to be a widespread problem yet, is that there have been some transmission failures. The symptom is that you attempt to remove the agitator, and the whole agitator shaft comes out with it. Replace the whole transmission and brake assembly as described in section 6-5.6-3 CONSOLETo access the timer, temperature or water level switches, fill valve, or to remove the cabinet top, you must remove the console.
You can then pull the terminal blocks off the timer and any other switches in the console and set it aside.The fill valve is accessible on the left. They have a little tab in the middle that you can grab with a pair of needlenose pliers to remove and clean or replace them. Unlike switchblocks of the past, the selector switches and water level switch are not held in place by screws. You don't have to change the column as you can simply remove the auto lever and indicator. To remove it, pull it until the timer clicks into the "run" position, then reach behind it with a flat screwdriver and poke the clip off. It can save you lots of time and hassle.1-4 BASIC REPAIR AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS1) Always de-energize (pull the plug or trip the breaker on) any washer that you're disassembling. If you need to re-energize the washer to perform a test, make sure any bare wires or terminals are taped or insulated. Energize the unit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then disconnect the power again. 2) To work underneath the washer sometimes requires leaning the washer back against the wall at a 30- to 45-degree angle.
The front panel of these machines is held in place by two spring catches at the top, and rests on two tabs at the bottom. Always have someone standing by to help you while you work beneath the washer, in case it comes down on you.Figure 1-7: Leaning the Washer Against the Wall 3) If the manual advocates replacing the part, REPLACE IT!! If so, physically turn the transmission until there is clearance. The whole clutch comes off in one piece as shown in figure FA-6 and is replaced as a unit. There is a reason that it stopped--you can bet on it--and if you get it going and re-install it, you are running a very high risk that it will stop again. They contain springs, but they also seal and compress air, much like an air shock on a car. Replace the part. 4) If you must lay the washer over on its side, front or back, first make sure that you are not going to break anything off, such as a drain hose or fill valve.
And for goodness' sake, make sure you drain the thing completely first! 5) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component. And NEVER EVER remove the third (ground) prong in the main power plug! 6) When opening the washer cabinet or console, remember that the sheet metal parts are have very sharp edges. Remove the 5 screws holding on the backsplash and lift it off; the fill valve will come with it. If you're not getting full power out of the outlet, you'll know it right away. 2) If you just can't get that agitator unstuck, your appliance parts dealer has a device called an Agi-Tamer for just such an occurrence.
Remove the screws from the dampening straps (four rubber straps at the top of the tub.) If you are going to be removing the transmission, remove the agitator and basket. It's basically a heavy-duty rubber balloon that fits under the agitator, and uses water pressure to lift it upwards from underneath. 3) If you need to drain the tub (usually because your pump isn't pumping out) most folks try to bail it out. Note that besides holding the agitator, the air bell contains air to keep water away from the transmission oil seal. So the O-ring on the bolt that holds the air bell in place is an important air seal and must be in good shape. And what happens when that nice, week-old dirty wash water reaches your mouth? You guessed it: there's a better way. What's the point in sucking the water through the hose? Well, instead of using lung suction to do that, let's use hose pressure. Leave your garden hose connected to the faucet, and put the other end of it in the washer tub.
There is a special slugging spanner wrench to remove these nuts; unfortunately, they're not cheap. The air is gone now, right? Kink the garden hose so you don't lose the water charge, and disconnect it from the faucet. When you're sure the faucet end of the hose is lower than the bottom of the washer tub, release the kink in the hose. No muss, no fuss.1-6 HOW TO USE A VOM AND AMMETERMany home handymen are very intimidated by electricity. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked. It's a little easier. Down below in the tub area, disconnect the pressure switch tube from left side of the tub, and bleach hose if installed.


Remember the rule in section 1-4 (1); while you are working on a circuit, energize the circuit only long enough to perform whatever test you're performing, then take the power back off it to perform the repair. Then lift the tub and tilt it either forward or backwards to remove it from the cabinet. Pop off the eight clips holding on the tub crown.
You will only need to be able to set the VOM onto the right scale, touch the test leads to the right place and read the meter. In using the VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for our purposes, the two test leads are always plugged into the "+" and "-" holes on the VOM. Note that three sides of the crown have forks that fit over knobs on the side of the tub, so it can only go on one way.) Remove the basket and the split ring and washer underneath it from the top of the transmission casing. Note that the ribs on the pulley stick upwards. The lower bearing assembly is now accessible. A rebuild kit is available for (at the time of this writing) about $75, with the special tools necessary available for about $50 more. See section 6-6 to rebuild.To remove the transmission, cut the cable tie holding the overflow pipe to the motor platform. Remove the four bolts holding the motor platform to the transmission, and the four bolts holding the platform to the tub. It's derived from the word "continuous." In an electrical circuit, electricity has to flow from a power source back to that power source. For our purposes, it doesn't matter how fast the current is flowingTo use your VOM to test continuity, set the dial on (resistance) R x 1, or whatever the lowest setting is.
Using the handles of a pair of pliers, pop it out from the inside of the tub and press a new one in by hand.6-6 REBUILDING THE LOWER BEARING (Figure FA-8)There is a bearing kit to replace the lower bearing.
It should peg the meter all the way on the right side of the scale, towards "0" on the meter's "resistance" scale. If the meter does not read zero resistance, adjust the thumbwheel on the front of the VOM until it does read zero. Several different pulley hubs are included in the bearing kit; each is a different thickness. If the solenoid's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something. There are metal guages and instructions also included in the bearing kit. There's also a set of special tools to change it out.
If there is still live power on the item you're testing for continuity, you will burn out your VOM instantly and possibly shock yourself. Touch the two test leads to the two bare wire ends or terminals of the solenoid.
You can touch the ends of the wires and test leads with your hands if necessary to get better contact. If there is GOOD continuity, the meter will move toward the right side of the scale and steady on a reading.
This is the resistance reading and it doesn't concern us; we only care that we show good continuity. If you own an ammeter, you probably already know how to use it. If you don't, don't get one. The ammeter simply measures the strength of this magnetic field, and thus the amount of current, flowing through the wire. To determine continuity, for our purposes, we can simply isolate the component that we're testing (so we do not accidentally measure the current going through any other components) and see if there's anycurrent flow.To use your ammeter, first make sure that it's on an appropriate scale (0 to 10 or 20 amps will do). WCI's machines were sold under these original brand names, as well as Westinghouse and White-Westinghouse brands. If it turns easily by hand but won't drain the tub, replace the whole pump and motor assembly.
And for goodness' sake, make sure you drain the thing completely first! 5) Always replace the green (ground) leads when you remove an electrical component.
The air is gone now, right? Kink the garden hose so you don't lose the water charge, and disconnect it from the faucet. When you're sure the faucet end of the hose is lower than the bottom of the washer tub, release the kink in the hose. It's true that diagnosing and repairing electrical circuits requires a bit more care than most operations, due to the danger of getting shocked.
For our purposes, it doesn't matter how fast the current is flowingTo use your VOM to test continuity, set the dial on (resistance) R x 1, or whatever the lowest setting is. If the solenoid's leads are still connected to something, you may get a reading through that something.



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