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Guide to diagnostic troubleshooting for heating boiler aquastat controls: this article describes common operating problems with heating system aquastat controls and how these troubles are diagnosed and fixed. We discuss aquastat problems such as improper adjustment, improper wiring, and relay buzzing or failures.
Buzzing noisy aquastats, also any other heating controls that use relays, such as some cad cells, stack relays, and circulator relays: if you hear a buzzing sound coming from your aquastat check to see if the control cover is pressing down on one of its relays. The problem is that the boiler never comes on to heat the water to a sufficient temperature. If it is only in the one zone you describe: it may be that the boiler is up to temperature and does not need to "kick on". Clarification: Turn down the t-stats to the two other loops (that are working) so that all heat goes to the troubled loop that you have activated (via t-stat for troubled loop). Joe, from your description we can exclude the case that the boiler does not run because it's already up to temperature - since you say that you feel no heat in the problem circulator piping and baseboards. Or if the zone valve motor is itself stuck then even though the system circulator runs, it never pushes hot boiler water out into the problem heating zone and therefore it never pushes cold water back from the problem heating zone into the boiler where that cooler water would cause the boiler to turn on. When one or sometimes two of my three heating zone thermostats call for heat, the circulator runs, but for two of the zones, the boiler won't come on until the third zone thermostat is also calling for heat.
We recently observed the symptoms, debugging, and solution to a similar no-heat in one zone problem.
The thermostat for zone 3 in a house would call for heat, trip on the circulator, but the boiler would not turn on unless one of the other zones was calling for heat.
The second service tech (from Bottini Fuel, Poughkeepsie, the first fellow said he couldn't see anything wrong), traced the problem to a burned-out circuit on the aquastat control board. Our photo of this very Honeywell L8124A aquastat control circuit board, with the wires removed, shows brown burn marks around the ZC terminal on the device. Watch out: a miswired multiple zone or multiple circulator pump system can also prevent one or more of the zones from operating correctly. When any of my three heating zone thermostats call for heat, the boiler will run, but it seems to take forever for the baseboards to get warm, especially on the longer runs. The photo (above left) illustrates Charlie's aquastat with improper settings for the HI and LO. We have found this problem lots of times when a homeowner or someone else messed around with the HI, LO, and DIFF settings on the aquastat without having a good idea of what those dials do. Our photo immediately above shows settings that OK - the HI is set to a little over 180 and the LO is set to 160. When domestic hot water is made by a separate tank heated by a zone on the heating boiler, we call that an indirect-fired water heater system. The heating zone, control, and circulator pump (or zone valve) that heats your separate hot water tank just looks like another heating zone as far as the heating boiler and its controls are concerned.
But if a heating boiler uses a tankless coil as a pre-heater or post-heater for the water entering the hot water tank, then indeed you've got two water heating methods in parallel - which can be confusing.
Take a look at the water piping that brings cold water from the building water supply into your hot water heating tank.
From a cold start with no call for heat (I turned down the thermostats) the burner stayed on all the way to the HI setting (in my case 180A°). If there is no call for heat but the boiler cycles on, I'd expect that ON cycle to be driven by the LO and DIFF controls just as you describe. Question: my heater won't turn off; replacing the thermostat did no good, what do I try next?
Buddy said: Frank, You may have a problem with your boiler controls or a check valve in the hot water piping system.
Take a look at "Guide to Heating System Boiler Check Valves & Flow Control Valves" [to see if this information helps you determine if a check valve is sticking open. The thermostat wires are shorted together anywhere in their run - this is the same as leaving the thermostat set to its highest setting.
The aquastat or high limit temperature sensors are not properly sensing boiler water temperature because of a bad sensor or because the sensor was not properly mounted in its well on the boiler. An air-bound heating pipe, baseboard or radiator that is just not delivering heat to the room where the thermostat is located. The thermostat is on a cold exterior wall or is in a cold draft and is not properly sensing room temperature.
Check the heating boiler temperature gauge - if the boiler temperature is at or above the HI limit set on your boiler aquastat or upper limit control switch then something is abnormal and unsafe and you should turn the system OFF immediately and call for heating system service and repair.
In any case you should call a heating service technician to inspect and repair the system promptly. I heat most of the time with a coal stove so the only time the furnace runs is if I go away for a few days. Contact your local heating supplier with the part number (inside the cover check that you correctly identified your Honeywell Aquastat as the Honeywell L8024B1048 (triple aquastat, also the L8024D) - that's probably all they need) from the original aquastat; there are tables of substitution and changeout part numbers and names for just about every control ever made. I would be quite surprised if they couldn't immediately give you the part you need, but if you don't have success let us know and we will research further. The wiring schematic for the Honeywell L8024B triple aquastat (thanks to your photos) is reproduced at left. Your aquastat, the L8024B controller, also sold in the L8024D model, is being used in your case to control a Hydro-Therm natural gas-fired heater and possibly a circulator pump; often a review of exactly how a controller is being used in a given application can make more clear just what replacement aquastat will work best.
I suspect a loose wire, loose connection, failing aquastat relay, or possibly a bad connection between the aquastat's temperature sensor and the sides of the well into which the sensor is inserted. Of course there may be some other issue we haven't thought-of - something that would be immediately apparent to an astute heating service technician. Start by turning power off (watch out for fatal electrocution hazards) and checking that all of the connections are tight. In the aquastat photo above left I'm pointing to a relay that may be buzzing if it's failing.
While the cover is off of the control, look with care for evidence of overheating or burning around any of the wire connectors or contacts At below left are burn marks around the lower-left power-connection screw. In my photo at above right I'm pointing to burn marks on the printed circuit board of a Honeywell L8124A aquastat on the reverse side of the overheated wire connection terminal shown above-left.
Way back we traced the burner on cycle problem to poor contact of the aquastat's temperature sensor in the sensor well. To communicate the temperature of the water in the boiler to the controlling aquastat heat must flow from the boiler water to the surface of the sensor well - basically a steel tube mounted through an opening in the boiler body. If this probe is not in very good thermal contact with the interior surface of the sensor well the aquastat may not always control the boiler on-off cycles properly.
The thermal or heat-conductive grease assures good thermal contact between the aquastat temperature sensing probe and the inner surface of the sensor well into which the probe is inserted. I too am troubled by that contact-constancy problem and suspect it explains why there are sometimes short on-cycles of the equipment. If we read the installation instructions we're told to use a thermal conductive paste inside the well, as illustrated at above left in our adaptation from the installation instructions for the AQUASTAT L7224U UNIVERSAL Universal programmable aquastat. The use of the manufacturer's recommended thermal-conductive paste would go a long way towards overcoming the contact constancy question that you raise. This may have been true for some products in the past but currently (2014 & recent years prior to that year) the thermal grease is not acting like a glue. Honeywell feels so strongly on this point that a packet of heat conductive grease is packaged with new aquastats.
Worse, once the aquastat control has been installed without the recommended grease, if the boiler is cycling erratically and you want to add the conductive grease, and if it's a close-mount aquastat whose sensor probe extends off the back of the aquastat directly into the temperature sensor well on the boiler, taking the aquastat back off to then add the conductive paste or grease is a fair amount of trouble that the tech certainly doesn't want to tackle.
Get some heat conductive grease and use it when installing the heating boiler aquastat sensor. Continue reading at AQUASTAT DIAGNOSTIC FAQs or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below.


We provide links just below to several aquastat installation, setting, and adjustment documents in response to reader requests and comments that people sometimes have difficulty finding this information.
L7224U1002- is a universal electronic aquastat (replacing over 40 other aquastat models) that provides circulator, burner and boiler temperature control with electronic temperature sensing. Five diagnostic LEDs inside the control provide additional diagnostic features, indicating (counterclockwise from upper left) EnviraCOM network active, Thermostat calling for heat, Burner on, Power to zone circulator interrupted (lockout), Circulator powered. Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. The ABC's of Retention Head Oil Burners, National Association of Oil Heat Service Managers, TM 115, National Old Timers' Association of the Energy Industry, PO Box 168, Mineola, NY 11501. The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors. This article describes how to replace a water pressure control switch which is not working properly or perhaps is not working at all.
In the sketch at page top the water pump pressure control switch is item #4 - we show this switch in more details in photographs provided below. This article explains the detailed steps to follow in removing and replacing a water pump pressure control switch. Here are a few tips that will make removing and replacing the water pump control switch easier, and which will reduce the water spillage (or spray) into the room during this operation. If you make this mistake and if you can't easily simply screw the old parts right back in to stop the leak, (you'll only do it once) don't panic - it's just water. If the pressure control switch is mounted high, say on top of a well pump which is itself on top of a water tank, all you need to do is take pressure off the water tank a€“ dona€™t need to drain it fully. Find the water pump pressure control switch: first of course we need to find the pressure control switch. Take a photo of your wiring connections before you touch anything, then you might as well as label the wires and perhaps make a little sketch showing which wires connected to which of the two or four terminals on the switch.
Mark the electrical wires and their proper connection points on the water pressure control switch. This will not be a concern the well pump is a submersible one down in the well since such pumps are self-priming. If you dona€™t have an assistant, remove the old parts, and through the flowing water out of the threaded opening, screw in the pipe plug you bought for that purpose (cheap assistant) to close the leak, then go on to investigate the control or prepare and re-install the new one. Replace the pump pressure control parts with the new ones or the repaired ones you've got at hand.
Reconnect the electrical wiring to the water pump control just as the previous control was wired. Below is a simple wiring diagram example using a Square D Pumptrol installation schematic and a photo of a typical pump wiring hook-up.
Watch out: If your pump pressure control switch is controlling a higher capacity submersible well pump, the electrical wires leaving the control may feed a separate heavy duty pump relay switch rather than going directly to the water pump. Watch the water tank pressure gauge, and when you have about 20 psi in the system (our gauge reading shown here is a bit too high) turn the water pump power back off and check the system for leaks. Wipe dry any wet parts, especially around the bottom of the pump control and where the pump control mounting pipe or fitting mounts into the water pump or water tank fitting.
Inspect your plumbing connections closely for water seeping out - if you have leaks go back to step 1 or 2 and re-make your connections with better preparation of the threads with pipe dope or teflon tape. When you confirm that there are no water leaks, turn your pump power back on and the system should operate normally.
IF the well pump is still not turning on and off properly you probably have another or a different problem. At WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT we discuss fine tuning the pump pressure control switch to work perfectly with the exact air pressure pre-charge in a bladder type well tank.
Reader Question: how do I replace the well pump pressure control switch shown in this photo? Reply: You'll be fine with a new pressure control switch, a close nipple (iron pipe thread) of brass or galvanized steel, and some teflon pipe tape or pipe sealant.
The reason you don't see a "tube' or mounting pipe is that your pressure switch connecting base (red arrow in photo above) is screwed directly into that galvanized iron tee (green arrow), almost certainly using a "close nipple".
When you unscrew the pressure control switch from the pipe tee shown in your photo, the close nipple will either come out with and remain attached to the switch bottom or it will remain screwed into the tee.
If the close nipple remains screwed into the tee and does not move at all, you may be able to screw the new switch right onto it. To change out the pressure switch shown in the photo above, you'd turn off power, remove wiring from the switch, drain pressure off of the water pressure tank to reduce the spillage when you remove the switch, then carefully unscrew the switch (attach a wrench to the fitting on the bottom of the switch) from the pipe.
Your plumbing supplier can supply you with both a threaded pipe nipple of the proper diameter and a new pressure switch (whose bottom typically includes a mounting fitting sporting a female NPT threaded fitting intended to screw onto a pipe, tube, or close nipple).
Watch out: because your whole setup of switch and gauge are mounted in a larger diameter PVC plastic pipe fitting (yellow arrow in photo above), if the switch is hard to unscrew you risk breaking that plastic part - which would mean more work to repair the system.
Use a bit of teflon tape or pipe dope when mounting the new switch but don't blob pipe dope or tape into the switch bottom where it might block the sensing switch diaphragm orifice.
Reader Question: the switch that turns my pump on and off broke off: can I just wire the pump directly? Hi I have a sta rite well pump that I had to pull up to replace the foot valve in but after replacing it and putting the pump back in my switch that turns it on and off broke and the pump wouldn't turn on. If you are talking about the pump power on-off switch, it should be trivial to wire the pump through an external 120V (or if needed 240V) wall mounted electrical switch. If you are talking about having broken off a pressure control switch, you need to buy and install a new one.
It's dangerous - risking an electrical overheat, melted wires, short circuit, fire or shock. Send me some sharp photos of the pump, its identifying labels, and also photos from a distance so I can see how the pump is hooked up and wired presently. Continue reading at WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below. Or see WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR to diagnose pressure switch problems or to replace the pressure switch contact relay parts or diaphragm. Mack, for a bladderless water tank if you empty the tank completely of water then most likely you won't have to add more pressure for the tank to work just fine when the pump is turned back on.
When I turn on the watering system the pump does not come on but the relay switch box clicks and it clicks when I turn it off as well. Questions & answers or comments about the steps in replacing a well pump pressure control switch.
Life Expectancy of Wells & Water Tanks how long should a water well and its components last?
Water pressure tanks - how to diagnose the need for air, how to add air, stop water pump short cycling to avoid damage - water storage water pressure tank safety. Water Supply & Drain Piping, water and drain pipe types, inspection, diagnosis, repairs, problem materials, clogging, etc. This entry was posted in Mercedes - Classe A and tagged indicador, manutencao, painel, periodica, reset, revisao. Einfach einePause im schnellebigen Alltag machenohne der Zeit Beachtung zu schenkenist ein Erlebnis, das ich gerne teile.
The folks who told you there are no rebuilt aquastats - well I'm not sure if that's because they didn't know or they didn't sell. When I put my hand on the pipe directly coming out of this zone valve the it is warm at best. We like Joe P's advice to see what happens when you turn down or up thermostats to the other zones. We replaced the aquastat and indeed now any thermostat that calls for heat can both turn on the circulator and if appropriate (based on temperatures at the boiler) turn on the boiler's oil or gas burner when it should. Because there are three circulator pumps and circulator relays, each controlled by an individual wall thermostat, it seems unlikely that all of them are bad.


The LO and DIFF settings have nothing to do with that water heating method - the LO and DIFF make sense and are used when there is a tankless coil in use.
Hot water from inside the boiler itself circulates through a heating coil in the bottom of the hot water tank in response to a thermostat on the hot water tank. If the cold water runs first through the tankless coil, then yes you are pre-heating water entering the hot water heater tank.
The manufacturers recommend using a temperature-conducting grease, though some techs I know like to leave the grease off. If if the boiler temperature is at or above the HI limit set on your boiler aquastat or upper limit control switch and the relief valve is not dumping hot water and pressure then something is abnormal and unsafe and you should turn the system OFF immediately and call for heating system service and repair. This aquastat was behaving erratically for a year or more before a sharp heating service tech from Bottini Oil (Poughkeepsie) spotted the damage. Technicians even replaced aquastats on a test system we've been monitoring, only to have the problem continue. After assuring that the problem was not in the room thermostat, that there were no loose wires, that the aquastat relay was working normally and in fact that the whole aquastat was new, it was following the manufacturer's installation instructions to use a heat-conductive grease in the aquastat sensor well that fixed the problem. The thermal-grease assures reliable and continuous thermal contact between interior surface of the immersion well on the boiler and the temperature sensing tip of the aquastat's heat probe. I've read that the formula for the conductive grease was amended to remove a drying agent, preventing the heat transfer grease from gluing the sensor into the sensor well.
Bottini Fuel is a residential and commercial heating oil distributor and oil heat service company in Wappingers Falls, NY and with offices in other New York locations.
But readers looking for specific aquastat control information should always first try the control manufacturer. The L7224U1002 provides status and diagnostic information through an LED display to enhance the diagnostic process. Buttons inside the control permit the service tech to scan through the control's settings as well as to change them, much like the functions on a programmable room thermostat. Fundamentals of Gas Appliance Venting and Ventilation, 1985, American Gas Association Laboratories, Engineering Services Department. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. We describe and illustrate how to find the pump switch, then we detail how to identify, remove, and replace the water pump pressure control switch for both above-ground pump and submersible well pump systems. If you simply unscrew the pump control without first turning off the pump and taking pressure off of the water tank and pump, you will have a fountain of water squirting all over the place. The pump switch will be usually be located on the pump itself (above ground water pumps) or on a tee at the water pressure tank outlet. Be sure that electrical power has been turned off, confirm that power is off using a neon tester or VOM. If you're proceeding on your own, mark and label each wire and each terminal that it was connected to so that you can replace the wiring correctly later.
See the other water pressure and water pump control diagnostic articles listed at the left of these pages.
Larger diameter gauge and pressure switch mounting pipe means less likely for the pipe itself to clog with sediment, rust, debris. See our brass close-nipple photo at left and see the white marking line in photo above showing where that part is hidden. If the close pipe nipple moves in the tee but you try just leaving it in place you may have a leak when you repressurize the system.
I'd probably use a small pipe wrench or Vise-Grip™ tool to remove the old close nipple from whichever side of the fittings it remained, and I'd install a new one to be sure my installation didn't leak. Avoid this problem by using two wrenches, one holding the metal pipe tee into which the switch base is screwed, and the other turning the switch base against the tee. So my father in law has the same pump but doesn't have a switch it's just wired in with the 4 screw diagram in this tutorial so my question is how would I wire this so it will come on and just just by pass the switch and let the breaker control on\off? After I drain tank and replace switch, should I add some pressure to the the tank a few pounds below cut in (28 for a 30)as one would do with bladder tank or is this unnecessary?
Aside from more sophisticated circuit testing, you might spot this kind of trouble by simple visual inspection of electrical controls and components. Some plumbers pipe in the opposite direction, that is, allowing hot water leaving the hot water tank to pass through the tankless coil for a boost that takes effect when the hot water in the separate tank is nearly used up or is cool.
I ask because part of diagnosing why smacking or tapping on an electrical control does something involves figuring out what you may be jiggling in the control when you rap, tap, or smack it.
Heat flows from the water through the steel of the sensor well to the surface of the aquastat's temperature sensing probe. Without this grease, thermal movement and possibly even slight corrosion that occur between the surface of the probe and the side of the immersion well can cause the temperature sensor to behave erratically. If your pressure tank and pump controls are not inside the building they may be located in a basement crawl area or outside in a well pit. If you are not skilled and trained in this work, hire an electrician or plumber to do these tasks.
For comparison, here is a photo of a standard pipe nipple, also made of brass in this case.
When I raise the thermostat (upstairs zone) I can hear the circulator pump kick on, the switch on top of the zone valve is in open position and I can hear a click come from the boiler. Honeywell say its discontinued they have no information for a universal replacement.The hot water tankless is disconnected as I have a gas hot water tank. It worked fine for 2 days, then went away for 4 days and when we returned the Beckett oil burner afg was off. The 2 that i have there is nothing inside the well itself to transfer heat from the well to the copper bulb inside the well it just sits there making loose contact with the sides in some spots. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order.
You can see another close nipple in your photo above - between the galvanized pipe tee and the metal to plastic bushing that adapts the whole setup to fit into that white plastic fitting (between the green and yellow arrows in our annotated photo).
The problem is when this happens the pump continues to run and if we don't catch it quickly it heats up and ruins the impeller centre or the bearing. When I operate the other thermostats in the other zones of the house, the furnace kicks on and heats the the water to temperature. I have also seen in homes that set the thermostats to low, that freezing occurs in the loop, and thus, poor heat output. 2) Volume III, Radiant Heating, Water Heaters, Ventilation, Air Conditioning, Heat Pumps, Air Cleaners, James E. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. My question: is there a shut off I can install on the pump or water line that will shut the pump off when the tank is empty. Is there normally some sort of oil or heat sink compound that should fill the well for better heat transfer? Carson Dunlop Associates' provides extensive home inspection education and report writing material.
Turn down t-stat to lower temperature so that all heating goes to the troubled loop and see what happens. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order.



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