Crate training puppy how long does it take 8590,potty toilet stool height,christmas girl dress up games online free - Easy Way

25.04.2014
Dogs need new experiences with other people, dogs and places, when very young to get socialized. Dogs need successes and less correction before full maturity so they can develop confidence.
Train your dog in order to establish communication and give it purpose, and make it tolerable. Dogs need to be in a dominance hierarchy with everyone; if you are not above your dog, you will be below it.
She uses praise, contact, play and toys to motivate puppies, but she does not recommend food training a young puppy. The monks of New Skete have put together an excellent book that discusses puppy development and the things that should be done at the appropriate stages and why.
There are always exceptions, of course, and there are many happy dogs dogs that were litter mates or otherwise puppies together out there.
You should consider that a puppy has an absolute right to chew whatever they can get at in your absence. There are some products that can help make items unpalatable and thus aid in your training.
For example, every evening before the dog eats (but after you have put its bowl down), check its ears by peeking in the ear and touching it with your fingers. Brushing is important, especially for double coated or long-haired dogs when they begin to shed. During your puppy's first year, it is very important that it be exposed to a variety of social situations. Do not commit the classic mistake made by many owners when their dogs exhibit fear or aggression on meeting strangers. The Art of Raising a Puppy has many valuable tips and interesting points on the subject of socializing puppies. Your puppy doesn't seem to pick up the idea of whining at or going to the door to tell you it needs to go to the bathroom.
If you watch a litter of puppies playing, you will notice that they spend much of their time biting and grabbing each other with their mouths. The first thing to teach your new puppy is that human flesh is much more sensitive than other puppies and that it really hurts us when they bite. The above training methods have been modified from information that I learned from Dr Ian Dunbar in his puppy training seminars and from his excellent video 'Sirius Puppy Training' which is available by calling 510-658-8588. Puppies that cannot sleep in the bedroom for whatever reason may be comforted by a ticking clock nearby, and a t-shirt of yours from the laundry. Newborn puppies receive immunization against diseases from colostrum contained in their mothers milk while nursing (assuming the bitch was properly vaccinated shortly before the breeding took place). During this time, puppies cannot build up their own natural immunity because the passive immunity gets in the way. Thus the importance of giving several vaccinations at 2-4 week intervals until around 16-18 weeks. IMPORTANT: The last shot should be given AFTER 16 weeks of age (4 months) to be SURE that dam's antibodies have not gotten in the way of the pup building up its own immunity (read the label of the vaccine!).
Make some chicken soup (low sodium variety or make it yourself) ice cubes and give them to the puppy. Soak a clean rag in water, wring it out and then freeze it (rolling it up helps) and give it to your puppy to chew on. If you are using the latter type of puppy food, many veterinarians and breeders (particularly of larger breeds) recommend that you NOT feed it for the first year as is recommended on the bags of food.
This is not a problem with the more closely formulated foods that have adult foods that are specifically labelled as unsuitable for puppies or lactating bitches.
The idea is to take advantage of a rule of dog behavior: a dog will not generally eliminate where it sleeps. Dogs that are in crates that are too large (so the dog can eliminate at one end and sleep at the other end).
Dogs that have lived in small cages in pet stores during critical phases of development and have had to learn to eliminate in the cage. If the crate is too big (because you got an adult size one), you can partition the crate off with pegboard wired to the sides to make the crate the correct size, and move it back as your puppy grows.
To house train a dog using a crate, establish a schedule where the dog is either outside or in its crate when it feels the need to eliminate. In general, consistency is MUCH more important than severe corrections when training a dog.
First rule of housetraining: puppies have to go to the bathroom immediately upon waking up. With these two rules goes the indisputable fact that until a puppy is housetrained, you MUST confine them or watch them to prevent accidents. Make it aware that this is not play time, but understand that puppies get pretty excited about things like grass and snails and leaves and forget what they came outside to do! To make life easier for you later on, use a key phrase just when the puppy starts to eliminate. It is essential for every dog, no matter how big, or small, or whether you want to show, or work, or just play with, to have basic obedience training.
Try to keep the first couple of days at home low key as your new puppy gets used to ita€™s new surroundings. Before you put your new puppy in ita€™s crate for the night, play with puppy a lot and wear puppy out.
The first thing to know about house training a puppy is that she does not physically have control over her muscles of elimination before she reaches four months of age.
A puppy has a very small stomach, an even smaller bladder and undeveloped muscle control of the sphincter.
Smaller breed dogs have smaller bladders and have to relieve themselves more frequently, so if you have a three month old Newfoundland, she is going to need to relieve herself less frequently than a little Havanese baby. One important house training tip is to keep treats in your pocket- a combination of Halo Liv-a-Little small biscuits or the freeze-dried protein – and be sure to instantly reward the puppy after she relieves herself outside. However, aside from the issue of elimination, what about the length of time a dog can humanely be kept in a crate? For more information on understanding your dog and her needs, be sure to tune in to GOOD DOGS! This entry was posted in Guest Blogger, Pet Health, Pet Nutrition, Talk Radio, Tracie Hotchner and tagged award-winning NPR radio show, CAT CHAT, Cat Chat Radio, CRATE TRAINING A PUPPY, DOG TALK, dog talk radio, pet expert advice, puppy has a very small stomach, puppy training, the Cat Bible, The Dog Bible, The Radio Pet Lady Network, Tracie Hotchner.
Newsletter & Email Updates SignupGet valuable coupons by signing up for our Newsletter today! In general, with crate training for your dog, your puppy should be almost completely housebroken by the age of four to five months.
You are probably wondering, “Where do I start?” First, get a crate, preferably one with a divider so you can expand the living space for your pup as it grows. Pick a crate big enough for your dog to lie down, stand up (without his or her back touching the top of the cage), and spin around in a circle. Your puppy should be in its crate a lot for the first couple of months it is home with you. If, while supervising your pup, you see him squat and start peeing or pooping, immediately give a loud verbal, “No!” Pick him up, immediately take him outside, and set him down in the yard.
Many people ask, “What if I didn’t catch him in the act, but noticed he went to the restroom in the house?” Very simple, do absolutely nothing. Your puppy should sleep in the crate every night when you go to bed (again, because if you are sleeping, you cannot directly supervise him).
We recommend that you do not put padding in the crate until the pup is housebroken and more mature.
Another important thing to remember is to never let your dog out of the crate if he is actively barking or whining. During the housebreaking process, we usually recommend cutting off food and water around 7 p.m. If you follow all these principles, you should have a very short housebreaking process and a dog that loves going into the crate. Related Keywords by design Off Leash K9 Training is a specialist in dog training in northern virginia. Nosework Training Virginia Dog Training and dog trainers in Virginia, VA canine behavior experts. We just got back from vacation (actually it was our honeymoon) and one thing my wife and I noticed was no matter how tired we were we both had trouble sleeping at night. On the flight home from Colorado we both conclusively decided that the main reason for our restless nights was that we did not have a dog(s) sleeping in the bed with us. Raven and Archer have both graduated from sleeping in closed crates, but even with the opportunity to sleep outside the crate I often find them sleeping in their crates. Stetson is our original Puppy In Training raised to be a guide dog and career changed to mentor future guide and service puppies. Dogs are social animals and so are people so it’s no wonder many of us like to allow our dog to sleep in our beds at night.
About ColbyColby Morita has raised guide and service dog puppies for Guide Dogs of America and Canine Support Teams.
When we first got our dog he did exhibit aggression on the bed; mostly guarding my husband. Raven and Archer both willingly go to their crates (we keep them open now that they’re both potty and crate trained) in the middle of the night.
Stetson likes to sprawl too and I will sometimes wake up trapped in the corner of our King Sized bed. How much does a puppy cost?  I asked this question 12 years ago before bringing home my first puppy, Linus from the Carson Animal Shelter.
She does recommend crate training and she also recommends sleeping in the same room with the puppy. This is a thoughtful book that discusses in practical detail what you can and cannot expect to do with your puppy in training it. First they follow a newborn litter through its various stages of development and at each stage they discuss what is happening. They tend to bond to each other and not to you and that can cause serious problems when it comes time to train them. You must put the puppy where either it cannot do any damage, or you do not care about the possible damage. A crate is any container, made of wire mesh or plastic, that will hold the puppy comfortably, with enough room to stand and curl up and sleep, but not too much that it can eliminate in one corner. You should think of it in the same way as child-proofing your house but be more thorough about it. Bitter Apple and Bitter Orange (available at most pet stores) impart a bitter taste to many things without staining, etc.
Small children do not understand the need for keeping fingers out of puppies' eyes or refraining from pulling painfully on their tails, among other problems. They should understand that they should put out their hands below the pup's chin, to keep it from jumping at a hand above its head. Try Jack and Collen McDaniel's Pooches and Small Fry, published by Doral Publishing, 800-633-5385. Sometimes it takes several weeks before you consistently get a reaction when you say its name. You need to pair verbal praise with physical praise for a few months before your puppy understands and appreciates verbal praise. Puppies need lots of sleep but since they are easily distracted, they sometimes forget to go to sleep and so will fall asleep at bizarre times: while eating, chewing, or even running.
Initially, during their first 24 hours of life, maternal antigens (passive immunity) are absorbed through the pups intestines which are very, very thin during those first few hours (this is why it is so important that puppies nurse from the mother during that critical time). One maximizes the chance of catching the puppy's immune system as soon as it is ready to respond, minimizing the amount of time the puppy may be susceptible to infection.
After that, it should be DHLPP (Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza and Parvovirus). If you know that a particular dog is current on its shots and not carrying disease, then go ahead and let your puppy socialize.
Your puppy will want to chew more during this period of time, but it may also be too painful to do so (hence the suggestions above). They recommend that you feed puppy food ONLY for the first two months that you have the puppy at home and then switch to adult food.
Some owners correct more severely inside, but this is extremely detrimental to the character of puppies. Since you know when your dog has to eliminate, you take it out and it eliminates immediately, and is praised immediately.


Before a dog understands what you want, severe corrections are not useful and can be quite DETRIMENTAL.
Understand that a puppy cannot go all night without eliminating, so when it cries in the night, you must get up and take it out and wait until it goes.
Use the same spot each time if you can, the smell will help the puppy remember what it is to do, especially after 12 weeks of age. He discusses all aspects of housetraining puppies and dogs, giving many constructive solutions for all kinds of specific problems. In fact, waiting until your pup is 6 months old to start training it is VERY late, and will be the cause of a LOT of problems. You may feel like this is engaging in wild mood swings (and you may well get odd looks from other people); that's all right. However, that is a general rule of thumb and puppies do vary in the development of their self-control so you have to watch your little one and her signals of needing to go so you can judge for yourself how long she can hold it! Until a baby dog is twelve weeks old, she is going to need to eliminate every hour or two as long as she is awake.
When you put her back in her crate, remember to give her another treat when you put her back in, making the whole experience rewarding, coming and going! A rule of thumb many trainers agree upon is that a puppy can hold her urine for the number of hours that corresponds to her age in months, plus one. One formula to estimating the length of time a puppy can comfortably stay in a crate is to calculate one hour for every month of her age, and then add one – which therefore means that a three-month-old puppy can be crated for four hours. Many people do not realize how much work some puppies can be for the first six months of their lives, and that’s just the beginning.
As a general rule, your puppy will have to go outside approximately 30 minutes after eating or drinking. From the first day you get your puppy, start to implement a keyword while your puppy is going to the restroom outside. Tie a bell to the end of a string and hang it from the doorknob at approximately your pup’s chest level. When you first wake up in the morning, take him from the crate straight outside and use the key phrase (“Go potty”).
We stress this point daily at our dog training in Northern Virginia, Off-Leash K9 Training. I think puppy pads are a bad idea, especially if you have a puppy that will grow into a large dog. This is done to ensure that all of the water has passed through the pup’s system by the time you go to sleep (assuming you are going to bed around 9 p.m. If you start using the crate as a place of punishment, the pup will start to hate it, will not want to go in, and will no longer see it as its “home.” Rather, he will see at is a prison.
Teach your dog to behave with dog training from Off Leash K9 Training in Northern Virginia Maryland Baltimore and Washington DC.
Offering an alternative to lessons, dog obedience and puppy classes in Alexandria, Annandale, Arlington, Blacksburg, Bon Air, Bristol, Burke, Charlottesville, Chesapeake, Christiansburg, Colonial Heights, Dale City, Danville, Fairfax, Fredericksburg, Front Royal, Glen Allen, Hampton, Harrisonburg, Highland Springs, Hopewell, Laurel, Leesburg, Lynchburg, Manassas, Martinsville, Mount Vernon, Newport News, Norfolk, Petersburg, Poquoson, Portsmouth, Radford, Reston, Roanoke, Salem, Staunton, Suffolk, Tuckahoe, Virginia Beach, Waynesboro, Williamsburg and Winchester Virginia. I think it took almost a year before he was well-mannered enough for me to feel comfortable allowing him in bed with us. She provides methods to teach no, OK, good dog, bad dog, sit stay heel, come, down, stand, go, enough, over, out, cookie, speak, take it, wait and off to puppies. They stress that by expecting and improving good behavior from the start, later, more formal training goes much easier.
They discuss testing puppies' temperaments and what you want to look for, under which circumstances.
Having two puppies needing house training at the same time can make that process go on for much longer. Puppies can eat kitchen cabinets, destroy furniture, chew on carpet, and damage a wide variety of other things. Depending on the breed, most dogs begin to gain the maturity to handle short stints with mild temptations when they're about 6 months old.
The single most effective way to do this is by having a ready supply of chewable items on hand. You should not depend on these products to keep your puppy safe, but use them as a training aid.
So keep children 6 years or so and younger away from the puppy until it is grown, for the safety of the puppy.
This book is full of good suggestions for teaching both children and dogs how to behave with one another. Taking the time to make these things matter of fact and pleasant for your puppy will save you a world of time and trouble later in its life. Take it to different places: parks, shopping centers, schools, different neighborhoods, dog shows, obedience classes--just about anywhere you can think of that would be different for a little puppy. Twitching will be most pronounced for the first few months of the puppy's life, and slowly diminish thereafter.
When you take a puppy from the litter and into your home, the puppy will play bite and mouth you. This will probably not stop the puppy from mouthing, but over time should result in softer and gentler puppy biting.
Thus, if you scold your puppy for doing things you don't want it to do, and ignore it when it is being good, you are reinforcing the wrong things. When a puppy becomes separated from its pack it will whine, thereby allowing it to be found and returned to the rest of the group. At this time, the pups should be given their first immunization shots so they can build up their own antibodies against them.
This is at minimum: you may need to add other vaccinations appropriate to your area, such as Lyme, Heart worm (actually a preventive medicine), Rabies (most places), and so on. Then the molars in the back come out (and you'll see adult molars behind those erupting as well).
You will probably find few if any of the teeth your puppy loses, as puppies typically swallow them.
Scheduled feeding gives the dog food at set times of the day, and then takes it away after a period of time, such as a half hour. Some are formulated very precisely for different periods in a dog's life, and what is appropriate at one stage is not appropriate at another.
To make the dog notice the difference between eliminating inside and outside, you must praise more outside rather than correcting more inside. Crating allows the owner to have total control over the dog in order to achieve consistency. The puppy will begin to eliminate on command, and this can be especially useful later, such as making sure the dog eliminates before a car ride or a walk in the park. If no accidents occur (ha!), then the dog never learns it has an option other than going outside. Instead, concentrate on general behavior, getting its attention, introducing things that will be important later in a fun way, and some other preliminary things, such as discouraging it from lagging or forging on the leash (but not making it heel!).
It should be obvious that no puppy should be expected to spend a whole day in a crate because she does not have control of her bladder. So an eight-week-old puppy (two months) can hold it for three hours—but that is the most time she can hold it, so she may feel the urgency to eliminate before that.
In theory, an adult dog can stay in a crate for eight hours, but it’s hard on them not to be able to move around for that long, and mentally, it’s tough not to be so tightly confined and not have anything to do.
So if you know he just ate or drank a lot of water, take the initiative and take him out; do not wait for him to go in the house.
Simple; it means if your puppy is not inside its crate, you or another member of the household should be directly supervising him. If your puppy does not go to the restroom, take him back in the house and put him back into the crate.
Puppy pads teach the puppy it’s okay to go to the restroom in the house, however, only in this specific area.
It is like the child who throws a fit in the middle of the toy store, and then the parents buy the kid a toy. He snores, sleep barks (which makes me jump), and makes running motions with his feet in his sleep. She talks about canine language and talks some about mental games you can play with your dog such as mirror games, and copying your dog and having him copy you, chase games and even playing rough with your puppy.
This implies that you would not introduce a second dog before the other six months old and properly trained.
Other solutions include fencing off part of the house, say the kitchen or garage or building an outside run. Consider the analogy with a baby, where you keep it in a crib, stroller, or pen if you are not holding it. This means that the puppy can cause you to be uncomfortable when mouthing or puppy biting you, but can not cause severe damage. Ignore the bad things (or stop it without yelling or scolding) and enthusiastically praise it when its doing what you want, even if it's as simple as sitting and looking at you, or quietly chewing one of its toys.
Others are generically formulated and are supposed to be OK for any dog under any conditions.
The nutritional formulation (especially the extra protein and calcium) can actually cause problems in puppy development. In addition, the dog is always supervised in the house, so the dog is always corrected for eliminating indoors. One way to think of it is that without basic obedience, you and the dog don't speak the same language so how can you communicate? It also needs positive as well as negative reinforcement: how would you respond if people only ever yelled at you when you did something wrong? By caging her and then not walking her frequently enough, you put the puppy in an unnatural situation in which she is forced to soil her crate (her den). Her most recent accomplishment is the pet talk radio network she has created on the Internet called The Radio Pet Lady Network.
Essentially, it is like having a newborn baby in many ways as you may have already figured out.
Crate training teaches a puppy the crate is its spot to go; it’s the equivalent of its home.
Over time, he will associate the key phrase “go potty” with the act of going to the restroom, about a month into the housebreaking process.
Until the pup is completely housebroken, there should never come a time when he is in a room alone. Rubbing his nose in it, hitting him, rolling a newspaper—these are all things that are proven ineffective. I find it much easier to teach them it’s never acceptable to go to the restroom in the house.
The crate should be seen by the dog, as you see your bedroom, as a place to go, get away, and relax. I love having the dog cuddling with us and it’s twice as sweet after all the work we put into his training, like this is our reward. He has a good bedtime routine and will willingly head to his crate when he’s ready to bed down, although I feel still feel guilty putting him in a crate.
Most training methods rely on the foundational relationship between an owner and his dog, and this book provides some ideas on establishing that relationship while the puppy is still young.
They then launch into a series of useful chapters: housebreaking, preliminary obedience, laying the foundations of training, understanding (reading) your dog, how to become the pack leader, basic training, discipline, and general care.
If you can get through the puppy stages without having your pup get a shock from chewing a wire you are doing a great job!
If you are consistent about this, the puppy will get the idea that only the things you give it are to be chewed on! If the puppy continues to whine, try giving it a toy or chew toy and then simply ignore any continued whining. This is why pups should be given a shot every few weeks (2 - 3 weeks apart and a series of at LEAST three shots). Since it is very common for puppies (even from the best breeder) to have worms from the dam's dormant worms, you must take care to have your puppy checked regularly when young. Therefore, until they are about four or five months old, you can only encourage good behavior and try to prevent bad behavior.
But with basic obedience, you can tell the dog what you want it to do and it will understand you and do it.
You'd be amazed at all the activities you can do with your dog once you and the dog learn the basics! Tie the puppy down in sight of people eating dinner to prevent begging and nosing for food (if you put it in another room, it will feel ostracized and begin to cry).


Depending on your puppy’s personality and how things go, this whole process could take a week or a month.
Puppies require constant attention and, just like babies, are more than likely waking you up in the middle of the night. More important, it becomes a location to hold your puppy during the housebreaking process when he cannot be directly supervised. If you are playing tug, chasing the ball, or getting the puppy really excited, it is always a good idea to take the initiative and take him out after these sessions, as well.
After this period, if you see your pup start to display that he is going to go to the restroom in the house (tail up, sniffing around in circles, etc.), repeat that phrase he has been hearing from day one, “Do you have to go potty?” He will recognize that key phrase he has associated with going outside and will run to the door, indicating that he does indeed have to go out. Doing this every time you go out teaches the dog that ringing the bell equals the door opening. To put it into perspective, if you are downstairs with your puppy and decide to take a shower, even if it is just five minutes, put your pup inside its crate. Additionally, often puppies who have padding in the crate will still urinate in their crate because the padding acts as a sponge and absorbs the urine. Additionally, as the pup grows into a larger dog, do you really want them going to the restroom inside your house? Additionally, do not put food or water in the crate with the pup; again, this will cause him to have to go to the restroom in the middle of the night.
It is also a good practice to feed him in the crate or give him a treat every time he goes in, again, associating it with something positive.
I can’t wait for our new puppy to get old enough to be trusted all night loose so we can cuddle. When puppy proofing your home, get down on your hands and knees (or lower if possible) and consider things from this angle. If you want to take the pup in an elevator, let it try it on its own, but firmly insist that it have the experience. But it is very important: you will wind up with a puppy that pays attention to you and is happy to do what you want, if it understands you. If you don't reinforce the whining by comforting it (other than to take it outside -- which is OK), it will eventually learn to settle down. In general, vaccine antigen cannot stimulate the puppy's own immune system until the maternal antibody level is below X. Another way to think of it is getting your dog to be a Good Citizen: it doesn't jump on people, or run off, or indulge in other obnoxious behaviors -- because it knows what you expect of it.
It is better to let them cry it out during the day instead of the night when you want to sleep.
If you find your puppy is going to the restroom inside the crate, you may want to reduce the size of the space.
Physically punishing a puppy for going to the restroom in the house is like spanking a one-year-old for going in their diaper.
When we do our puppy training program in Northern Virginia, we always stress the importance of this.
Your favorite dog food and supply store (unless it's a pet store) is a good place; dog shows are another. But for other dogs, such as dogs with gastric problems or older dogs, frequent small meals may be better for them. These are packed even higher with extra nutrition, etc, than the puppy really needs, since the original formulation was already sufficient for the puppy.
The growth rates are not the same and so the connections are strained and if the dog jumps wrong or is playing too hard, the connections can be torn.
Often, if the crate is too large in relation to the size of your puppy, he does not have a problem going in the back corner of the crate because he can get far enough away from the mess that it doesn’t affect him as much.
If you have a baby and you are going to jump in the shower or leave the room to fold laundry, would you leave a baby just sitting in the living room by itself? This is so important it is worth mentioning once more: If you do not physically catch your dog in the act, chalk it up to a loss on your behalf and move on.
This does two things: It prevents him from coming back in and minutes later going to the restroom in your house and will teach your puppy that he has to go to the restroom or he will keep going back into the crate until he does.
The most important things are watching the puppy and, of course, crating it or otherwise restraining it when you can't watch it. You want the pup to learn about the world so that it doesn't react fearfully to new situations when it is an adult. If a small child falls on your adult dog and sticks a finger in the dog's eye, you should not be surprised if the dog bites. This typically happens in the front shoulder and requires surgery and several months of confinement to repair. This is how the other puppies in the litter let each other know when they have crossed the line, and it is a good way to get the puppy's attention and let it know that biting is not acceptable. They had the occasional hiccup, but were very receptive to the crate after decent training.However, growing up I had a Lurcher-cross-Terrier that we adopted and she took a lot of work before she was happy being crated for anything more than 15 minutes. If you do a good job teaching your puppy bite inhibition, you should get a grab and release without damage. For every time your pup goes in the house without being caught in the act, you add a few more days to the housebreaking process.
After he goes to the restroom outside, bring him back into your house and leave him out of the crate, remembering to directly supervise him. Just to clarify, your new puppy may whine in the middle of the night to let you know he has to go out. During this time, even if you vaccinated every day, you would (in this theoretical discussion) not be able to stimulate immunity. When doing our puppy training in Northern Virginia, we generally realize this is people’s biggest mistake, lack of supervision. So, if he is going in the house a couple times per day without getting caught in the act, the housebreaking process can be really prolonged. It is then acceptable to let him out of the crate, take him outside, use the key phrase, then come back in.
Yet you are below that level of maternal protection at which infection can be effectively fought off. However, once your puppy is old enough to hold it throughout the night (generally around three to four months of age), never let him out based on whining or barking. You want to make it inviting and comfortable to lay in.If you happen to be crating more than one dog, follow a one dog per crate rule.
A crate belongs to a single dog and is their own special place and not for sharing, particularly because dogs confined together are more likely to fight and there will be no escape.Finally, for safety reasons, before you ever allow your puppy into the crate, make sure they have nothing on.
Do not make a fuss of the crate.Let your puppy investigate it all by themselves as they go around eating the treats.
When they do, pop a few more just inside for them to eat.After a few minutes, move away with your puppy and do something else. When they’re not looking, add a few more treats close to and just inside the crate, then go back to it and let your puppy investigate. This will help prevent them bolting out when the door opens later in life.Step 8Have your puppy lie down in the crate.
Throwing a treat right into the back so they have to go all the way in to get it is just doomed to failure, just too big an ask. Remember, we’re trying to take as many small steps as possible to promote the greatest chance of success!
Click and praise every time, but do not reward every time.If you were to reward 100% of the time your puppy will learn to expect it and be disappointed and then rebel if they do not get rewarded. They will perform only for the treat and only when they want the treat, not at any other time. Ask for 10 seconds, then 20, then 40, then go back to an easy 5 before asking for 15 again.
Then increase by 30 seconds at a time until you can get to half an hour and beyond.Again though, be sure to mix up the durations you ask your puppy to spend in the crate.
Lots of short little times with longer ones mixed in.Perhaps over the course of a day, ask for 10 minutes for breakfast, then 3 minutes close to lunch, then 20 minutes for dinner, 2 lots of 3 minutes between dinner and bedtime, then all overnight. At the vets or when boarding, there will be many distractions outside of the crate and you should prepare them for this.Step 19Now puppy can remain calmly in the crate with the door closed, you need to start adding distractions. Play catch with a friend.Start with small distractions and build up to more noise and more motion slowly.Step 20The final step! Then train in your car if it fits or you have a car crate.Finally, although not easy, try to do some crate training in friends houses and gardens.
And for house training reasons you do not want them pottying in their crate or inside your home. After this just once after 4 hours and then you can begin to stretch the time out until they last the night fully at 12 weeks+.When going for a potty break, you must be absolutely silent. So how do you make sure you aren’t ignoring a basic need and are only ignoring cries for attention?First of all you want to make sure they are empty before bed.
This means do not feed them in the 3 hours before and do not allow them to load up on water in the 2 hours before bed time. Some people don’t mind carrying the one crate from room to room, others buy two having one in each of the living area and the bedroom. Keep them out with you, on blankets or towels if supervised, or kept safe in an open top cardboard box if not.
This will help to avoid any feelings of being alone, of being abandoned and associating these feelings with the crate.Crate them little and often while you are in the same room. This will teach them that being quiet is the only way to get you to come to them.As you approach, if they start to scream again, simply ignore them.
Stay in the room but busy yourself doing something else and do not turn your attention to them until they’re quiet again. All logic says it will go much smoother as it’s so unforced and running at your dogs own pace, therefore it will be far less stressful and almost certainly have a higher chance of success than rushing it. All it requires is to follow the rules and steps laid out above and the patience and dedication to see it through calmly and methodically.Some people may encounter problems.
I read the articles in the rest of the series and have been waiting for instructions to start crate training my Lab puppy. We will not crate her often, but just to help break the chewing habit as it’s getting expensive.
I wanted to crate train her, but it may be too late now because we have been putting her in there to sleep at night. She doesn’t hate it in there, but definitely howls and cries for a good amount of time before stopping.
Most other websites have always said to put her in the crate and, as hard as it is, ignore her whining until it stops on her own (given that she doesn’t need to be taken out).Thanks in advance! You should go to her just once during the night to SILENTLY take her to her bathroom spot (at 10 weeks it’s unlikely she can last the night). Any attention she receives will likely reinforce her behavior because you will inadvertently teach her that if she makes a noise for long enough, eventually you will come. And when you go to her in the morning to let her out, you should go to the crate and patiently wait there for silence before you give any attention or let her out. To her, going in the crate to sleep at night is entirely different to being crated during the day, entirely different again to being crated when you leave the house, and different again to using the crate as her own special den and place to go to for calm and quiet. However I am about to become a foster mum to a 13mth old Malamute x husky rescue dog who has moderate food aggression. That’s gonna be a beautiful looking dog!I keep reading conflicting views on whether to feed a resource guarding dog in a crate or not. And I think your point of ‘it may add another ‘coveted item’ to her aggression‘ is very valid too!
Dogs already see their crate as their own, and if they are prone to food guarding it might have some sort of stacking affect making her doubly on guard. But it would benefit her greatly to be able to eat alone, in peace, and not have situations arise where she feels she needs to guard her food.
This can be achieved by making sure every person in the home knows not to approach her while eating, but also keeping other pets away too. Preferably this would mean feeding her alone in a separate room where she will not be approached, but if this isn’t possible then maybe feeding her in her crate is an occasional answer?Moving forward though, I would use as many meal times as possible as an opportunity to treat her food guarding problem.



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