Note that he’s the only man in blue on the elevator, which makes him stand out some from all the other men.
Most of Don’s costuming in his McCann scenes served to illustrate how badly he fits into the place. We heard a lot of commentary about how Bill Phillips the research guy, whose card and name Don later appropriated, was doing a Don Draper-like pitch in this scene. As we noted last week, Shirley had an extremely consistent style in her time at SC&P, going so far as to wear the same dress in different fabrics, several times over. Joan, Peggy, Meredith and Shirley all wore very distinctive, focus-pulling, colorful costumes this episode, several times over.
Take a look at Joan’s silhouette, which is a lot floatier and less restrictive than her old extremely body-con dresses.
Because the last time she sat down across from him, she was wearing a shocking pink dress – except last time, it had a lower neckline, no pussy bow, and was much tighter on her. We haven’t seen her wear a dress that eye-popping or focus-pulling (not to mention tight) since that first humiliating meeting at McCann. Understand, we’re not accusing her of anything nefarious or even of consciously trying to play these men to get what she wants. Like Joan, Betty is a woman who never supported feminism but is benefiting from the work other people have done to change society.
This is the suit that she wore for that disastrous meeting with Joan and the guys at McCann, just as Joan’s pink dress earlier referenced the same scene. Just as the skates were set up in the previous scene, the existence of this organ was set up last week during the children’s casting scenes. And now we’re going to poop all over this wonderful, beautiful scene and ruin it for you. How about if TLo reviews [Love] “Americans” Style episodes starting next season on FX?
At least Don found a few other members of the Fraternal Order of Brylcreem in the elevator…. I repeat again what I have said and posted and tweeted many times since sunday night, sweet baby jesus let me be Peggy Olson when I grow up. Although heart-breaking to consider, I’d be happy if that was her exit from the show.
And one of the few black men on the show who isn’t a janitor, elevator operator or criminal.
He could instinctively tap into people’s desires and needs, but he was always pointed in the wrong direction vis a vis the history of advertising. But this is a new look for her – very 1970 trendy, with the high-waisted skirt and paisley blouse.

In a scene where Peggy’s offended to be mistaken for a secretary, her actual secretary needed to be as far apart in costuming as possible while still being believable. These costuming callbacks underline the importance of that scene and how the sexism in it was ultimately going to be Joan’s reason for leaving.
It came to define the Power Bitch look of the latter decade and any executive woman of this period had them in her wardrobe rotation. And the bottle of Cinzano was almost certainly left over from Pima the bisexual player photographer’s photo shoot. We noted before that each final shot of this season has Don stationary, while the camera moves away from him, but this time he’s moving away from the camera himself. It’s the best show on TV now and it’s set in the fashionable Reagan years but with lots of spy wigs! This targeted approach to consumers was only going to get more honed over time and superstar creatives like Don Draper will soon be seen as charming dinosaurs.
The shocking pink underlines the history of their interactions while the silhouette and details demonstrate how much it affected her. As politically incorrect as it may be to point this out, when Joan came up against male chauvinism and needed to combat it, her first impulse was to put on a tight dress and ask some men for help.
All of the aspects of that skating scene were rather meticulously put together and foreshadowed, which tells you something about how important it is. It feels less like things are being stripped away from him and more like he’s deliberately running away.
Especially those scenes of him standing in the middle of his empty apartment or outside it after the place was sold – a man out of time with nowhere to live and no one who wants him. You refuse to take off your jacket when you know you’re only going to be there a short while before leaving.
Bill Phillips’ approach was to describe a very specific customer and claim that this was the exact person they should be targeting in their approach. She may have been the most mature and emotionally healthy person depicted in the entire episode. If everyone at McCann wore eye-popping outfits like the ones the SC&P ladies were wearing, none of the mains would stand out in their scenes. Remember when she wore a tight dress and asked Lane if he wanted breast or thigh for lunch because she needed time off? There was never a sense that she absolutely loved handling accounts and that she was exceptional at it in any way. And the mention of his heart condition, his goodbye kiss to Don, and some of the undertones of the next scene, have us wondering about whether or not he’s going to make it to the finish line.
When you see Joan walking the executive hallways, for instance, it’s a hell of a lot more narrow and traditional in its fashion.

Remember when she and Peggy fought over Joey’s sexist cartoon and she wanted to fight back by using her wiles instead of directly addressing it?
It was always very clear in the latter half of the series that the two things most important to her when it came to work was attaining enough money to secure her future and gaining the respect she always felt she was owed. Neither of them were known as particularly fashionable and they were both nearly two decades older than Betty is here.
The pussy bow was an attempt to come up with a business uniform for women equivalent to the male suit and tie. Peggy is celebrating the next step in her life, Roger is playing a funeral dirge because he knows the most important and productive parts of his life are now over. It limits people to a series of tics and behaviors rather than appealing to their better natures. By the nineties, women had had enough of them and they stopped being the standard in female businesswear. Don didn’t leave that meeting because someone was doing his old job as well as he did. After all, the most consistent repeating costume motif for Joan has always been roses on a black background. Joan never spoke or demonstrated an understanding of or sympathy toward feminist rhetoric, but she’s benefitting from the fight all the same because her consciousness has been raised just enough that she knows she can fight back and the movement has become so well known that she can start spewing names, events and organizations like weapons.
When Joan wanted to burn the place down, Peggy had mentally started to put it behind her and was thinking of lunch because in the end she was getting what she came for. There was a time when it clearly evoked romantic and sexual disappointment in her life, but by now, it merely signals the shit she constantly has to put up with from men.
Don’s best pitches were about opening people up to the possibilities of a particular product or concept.
She wore a very similar dress last season when it became clear just how much she hated Don at the time.
Bill Phillips is a clean-cut charismatic guy who can command a room and make a presentation, but after that, the comparisons to Don evaporate. That’s awful and sad, but how many former secretaries get to leave with that kind of parachute?

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