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A typical turbocharger has a bead-rolled, pipe-style outlet connected to the piping via a boot of some sort. The turbocharger heats and compresses the air; the other components (below) must then cool down that air.
The piping on this system routes the airflow from the turbocharger through to the rest of the system. You should also consider the long-term effects of running your vehicle with a leaking system. With all of this in mind, if you have any doubt in your CAC system, take the time to perform an adequate inspection and test of the system.
Although less common than a boot failure, issues with piping can cause a nightmare when trying to seal your CAC system.
Installing new boots on your existing intercooler pipe seems like a simple task, but many installers forget one important step, cleaning the pipe. Now that we’ve covered the pipes, we can move onto the main culprit for leak issues: the CAC boots and couplers.
EPDM rubber is generally well-known for its heat, ozone, and weather resistance properties. Mishimoto offers several different catch cans with varying sizes, shapes, fittings, and features.
So, it is extremely likely that your vehicle’s CAC system has a nice coating of petroleum-based fluid. Pressure is another factor that affects the lifespan of your intercooler boots, and it is normally the element that presents itself during the final moments of your boot’s life. When maintaining your CAC system or removing any components, it makes sense to give them a thorough cleaning while they are off the vehicle. To clean the intercooler, you can cap one end of the cooler, fill it with soapy water, and slosh it around to remove as much oil residue as possible. A boot blowout will often happen during one of the first few drives of a new build, when you realize that a clamp is not fully tightened. Upgrading to a silicone intercooler boot is a fantastic way to improve the reliability and longevity of your CAC system.
Duracore™ is a fluoroelastomer-based material that comprises the inner layer of Mishimoto boots. In short, if you are still using EPDM rubber boots, do yourself and your vehicle a favor by upgrading to a silicone counterpart. So now that you have your pipe and couplers cleaned and ready for installation, it is time to pick an appropriate clamp for your application. These clamps are commonly installed on cooling system hoses, which have less pressure than a standard CAC system. The constant-tension clamp, a modification of the standard T-bolt clamp, uses a spring to provide a constant pressure on the surface. As you can see, the clamp is not installed on the actual bead roll of the pipe, but rather on the outside portion of the bead where it can make a nice seal with the flat surface. Several new turbocharged vehicles use quick-disconnect fittings on the intercooler and charge pipes. Keep an eye out for more of these components to be developed and offered by the team at Mishimoto!
Boot installation will vary significantly from one vehicle to the next, but on a pipe it remains nearly identical. Cleaning the surface of your boot connection is vital to ensure that the new boot stays firmly planted in its new home. If you wish to take this further, cleaning the entire CAC system is possible with the use of common dish soap.
We hope this article has provided you with some helpful information about boot selection and installation. I'm not so familiar with Carrera track, as I have mostly used Scalextric & Ninco, but it is still basically the same process.
It's best to take the whole track apart, and flip over a pair of sections at a time and re-crimp the rail joiners. If you don't want to take the whole track apart (at least at first), there is a trick to finding dead spots or spots with bad connections.
Using conductive dielectric grease works great on the connection tabs, to improve conductivity, as well as preventing corrosion. On a large layout, for about every 30 feet of track, you should have one power tap (or jumper), to provide a direct power tap to the opposite side of the track. If you decide to rewire the track and put on a better power supply, you can make a much more dramatic improvement, but that involves a bit more work and an investment in a good power supply.
I didn't mean to overwhelm you - but you can always start out with the simple "blueprinting" described above, and upgrade as needed or as time & budget allows. When I used to race HO back in the '70's we used to use a Pink Pearl eraser on the rails to clean them. Since the Carrera rails are solid Stainless Steel, any grade coase or fine Scotchbrite will NOT damage it. We’ve had another look at this category, and haven’t found anything to change our recommendation. The Monoprice speaker cable is a still a great choice for inexpensive speaker cable that should work really well for just about everybody.
Since our original article was written, Brent Butterworth has done additional testing of speaker cables, which we’ve summarized and linked to in the Even More Data section below. If you belong to one of these groups and want to leave a comment, I ask that you read this entire article carefully before doing so.
If you’re not at the far ends, read this article to see where I’m coming from, the testing I did, and why I chose the Monoprice.
There are countless (literally: I tried counting) options for speaker cable, from no-name cheap $6 50-foot spools to $1,000-per-inch “audiophile” offerings.
In this initial partially-vetted list, I ranked the cables’ price-per-foot per gauge (as in, what was the cheapest for each wire thickness). All speaker cable is part of an electrical circuit that includes each driver, the other components in a speaker, plus all the elements in the output stage of the amplifier.
The prices between these were close enough that they all seemed reasonable competitors, and all were the cheapest or near-cheapest of their respective gauges. So I wouldn’t be biased, Brent cut two 10-foot lengths of each cable, labeling them with letters (so Lauren and I, at least, wouldn’t know which brand was which). For our first round of testing, we pitted all the 14 and 16 gauge cables against each other. For our next test, I selected one of the cables I liked from the first round, and we put that against the Monoprice 2747 12 gauge. Interestingly, after our murky results from the first round, the difference between the 14 gauge and the 12 gauge was not only noticeable.
Since the difference between the 14 and 12 gauge wires was the most obvious difference, we re-did this test with the less expensive speakers.
It would be easy to take from this that you should get cheap cable if you have inexpensive speakers, but that’s not the whole story.
Should we have done another round of testing, and figured out what the best 14- or 16-gauge wire was for the Hsu?
It would easy to dismiss the results above, especially how extensively I hedged that these were subtle effects.
Speaker cables are simply wire that connects different parts of an electrical circuit, as I mentioned earlier. You don’t need to understand resistance, inductance and capacitance to understand why we care. But when he switched to a thinner gauge cable, the difference was pronounced, “But switching to the 24-ga cable had a huge effect.
Is it possible that spending even more on cables would result in an even bigger difference?
In a typical Wirecutter article, we’d recommend a step-up product for those willing to spend a bit more to get more performance. The difference in sound quality between speaker cables is one of the most subtle differences of any change you could cause in your system. So after all this research, all this testing, and, on your part, all this reading, I’m saying there’s no “best” speaker cable. So for those looking for a decent cable at a decent price, a high value-per-foot per gauge and potentially better-than-average sound quality, the Monoprice 2747 is our pick.
Spurred on by curiosity, Brent wrote a followup article called Using Measurements to Clear Up the Cable Controversy. We actively moderate the comments section to make it relevant and helpful for our readers, and to stay up to date with our latest picks. The Wirecutter and The Sweethome are lists of the best gadgets and gear for people who quickly want to know what to get. In this weekend’s edition of Inner Vision, learn how to erase scratches marring wood furniture or floors using a heart-healthy snack, watch how the best in hospitality make a four-star bed, and rediscover your inner child’s fearlessness to adapt new skills more effectively. Lauren Dragan takes a look at the world of compensated reviews and astroturfing, and explains how we tell the real Amazon reviews from the fakes. We help support the hundreds of hours that go into our evaluations through affiliate commissions on purchases made through our links.
With the old 2-cell radiator that was in the truck, it was pretty easy to see the engine overheating even without the AC on if it was a hot day and I was sitting in traffic, so I knew I needed to get a new radiator in there before the Summer months this year.
So I took the truck to Jim Naugle of Jim's Classic Restorations in Monroe, New Jersey - 732-521-9383.
Note: If you look at the Electric Fan Circuit Breaker in the picture above, you'll see a rather whimpy red 14-gauge wire that's going back to the battery.
Anyway, after three days of trying this and that, and getting nowhere, I wound up making a serious study of all the wires. I decided to go with an 18-gauge fusible link as Mark suggests at his site (a six-inch piece of wire that is four gauges smaller than the wire it is protecting will serve). If you have a basic understanding of the intercooler system on your vehicle, please feel free to skip ahead to the next section. These terms are used interchangeably for the system that cools the airflow moving from the turbocharger to the intake manifold. The compressor side (often referred to as the cold side) of the turbocharger sucks in ambient air and uses an impeller to compress the air and force it around the housing and into the piping.
These components are the most failure-prone parts, and as we know, a system is only as good as its weakest link. An intercooler, or charge-air cooler, is an air-to-air heat exchanger that cools the internal airflow by using air moving through external fins. This component is nearly always found on modern CAC systems, its primary function being to reduce compressor surge when the throttle is closed (during shifts). A leak in the CAC system will result in a loss of pressure, which will affect power output and reduce fuel mileage. Some leaks may be difficult to detect, especially if they have been present for quite a while.
Finally, a CAC boost leak tester can be used to provide confirmation of proper sealing of your system. The system is capped from both ends and the piping, boots, and cooler are exposed to a specific air pressure. The primary sealer on intercooler pipes is the bead roll, a raised portion on the end of the pipe, which creates a location for a clamp to properly secure the boot. Mishimoto offers aluminum intercooler piping, mostly because of the improved heat-transfer properties associated with the material.
Most rubbers of this type have a maximum operating temperature right around 300°F (149°C), which is fairly close to what the hot-side of your CAC system will see.
Without going into too much detail, your engine features a CCV (crankcase ventilation) system that works to improve engine efficiency and emissions. We have also been working to develop numerous direct-fit kits, which helps our customers take the guess work out of installing a catch can.
If the compressor housing seal on your turbocharger is compromised in any way, oil can make its way into the cold side of your turbocharger, thereby moving into the intake tract.


High pressure has a way of finding any path of airflow and changing a pinhole leak into a fully torn boot. There are many different product options, but the safest method uses simple dish soap and water. Once finished, adding a catch can to your system would be an easy way to keep future buildup from accumulating.
Although you may be able to get your vehicle off the road, most of the time you will experience serious drivability concerns. In fact, some manufacturers are beginning to see the value in equipping their vehicles with silicone couplers.
This layer will make direct contact with the air and any contaminants within your CAC system, so the material’s properties are quite important. This clamp provides a cleaner appearance and is more effective at holding greater pressures because of its band width.
With a worm-gear clamp, you can use a larger clamp and tighten it enough to fit a smaller-size tube.
This allows the clamp to compensate for any expansion of the hose from temperature or pressure variations.
Although some couplers are still used as flex joints, many CAC connections are now constructed from plastic snap-on housings secured by metal clips. Plastic components exposed to the heat and pressure from a CAC system will likely degrade and eventually fail.
Take the appropriate measures and use a solvent to properly remove all oil from the surface of the pipe.
Slide your new boot onto the connection points, making sure that the coupler is seated as described earlier in this article.
Be sure not to over tighten these as you could distort the piping (if aluminum) or damage the clamp itself. Once the boot is completely installed and you have verified that all clamps are properly tightened, an appropriate test drive is necessary to ensure you have a functioning system.
This is where the track brands are different, but basically you just want to tweek or crimp where it will make a little tighter connection. It takes TWO bad connections to make a car stop, but ONE bad connection will cause a car to slow down, because the electricity still flows all the way around the circuit.
If you are considering that, let me know and I will post links to info on wiring, power supplies, & lap counters.
If you decide to upgrade to a power supply, you can get a good adjustable voltage power supply for around $120 - $200. I review and write about audio for CNET, Sound + Vision, Forbes, and was technical editor of Home Theater and editor-in-chief of Home Entertainment. I searched common outlets (Amazon, Best Buy, Walmart, Crutchfield and others) for speaker cable options.
Well, what’s the point of recommending a cable that doesn’t exist by the time you read this article?
I also checked several boutique cable brands, but if a company specializes in cables, they don’t seem to bother playing in the price ranges we’re looking at here. Speaker wire comes in different thicknesses, most commonly ranging from 12 gauge to 18 gauge (this can also be written as 12 AWG to 18 AWG). Each cable is going to have slightly different properties that in theory can subtly change the sound. I’m saying that it is definitely possible for speaker cables to change the sound, but it’s very subtle. All the other cables on my initial list were either significantly more expensive, or brands of dubious longevity. We started with high-end gear but, to remove the gear from the equation, we switched in inexpensive speakers at the end of the test.
This test was to see if we could hear a difference between the different brands of these similar thickness cables. We are experienced audio reviewers, and this was really high-end gear, and we had a difficult time picking out differences. This test was similar to our first test, in that it was the same thickness of wire but different brands. This was to see if we heard a difference on inexpensive speakers, and to see if different cables sounded better on these speakers than those that sounded good on the Krells.
This wire has three different electrical properties: resistance, inductance and capacitance.
Because the speaker, amplifier, and speaker cable are all part of the same circuit, changing the properties of one of these items can affect a slight change in the others. After doing the above listening test, Brent and I decided to dig around some more, and spoke to a number of speaker and audio experts to pick their brains. For starters, it reduced the level, requiring me to normalize the measured response curve by boosting it +2.04 dB so I could compare it with the curve from the [expensive] Linn cable.
In his first article, he concluded, “Mainly, don’t use skinny cables in any system where you care about the sound quality.
In it, he tested a bunch of really expensive high-end cables to see if he could objectively measure a difference with expensive audio measurement equipment. When readers choose to buy our independently chosen editorial picks, we earn affiliate commissions that support our work.
We select each pick with the utmost care, relying on expert opinion, research, and testing.
We’re committed to publishing unbiased guides that clearly detail our decision-making criteria to our readers, but we just want you to know. For more on our ethics, ideas and how we work, read this. We obtain the products we review through a mixture of buying our own and working with companies to borrow review units.
This article is about ensuring that your charge-air cooler boots remain intact and in place to keep your car or truck on the road and out of the garage. Air coming from your turbocharger compressor housing is normally at a very high temperature that varies depending on turbocharger size, style, and boost pressure. Most aftermarket offerings select aluminum piping for its lower weight compared to steel, as well as its heat dissipation properties.
The engine still expects a particular amount of boost, regardless of any leaks within the system.
You should perform an initial inspection to check all the boots in your system for wear and splits. A very low-boost application might not have a bead; however, any measurable pressure is likely to separate the boot from the pipe. Blow-by oil and fuel byproducts make their way into the track, coating the internals of the pipes, boots, and intercooler. If you are lucky, you should not have any of these fluids in your intercooler system, right? During engine operation the crankcase generates pressure from the combustion gases passing the piston rings.
This accumulation is usually a bit more prominent and more easily identifiable by the trail of smoke following your vehicle everywhere. Adding just a few pounds of boost will make a significant impact on the holding power of your boots. Although rubber is normally fairly resilient to pressure, degraded rubber certainly is not. Other fluids such as acetone and gasoline would be just as effective, but by far the safest method is to use simple dish soap.
The wall thickness of the stock boot is around 2mm, while the Mishimoto boot measures in at 5mm, a 250% size increase.
Duracore™ is far more resistant to petroleum-based chemicals, so it is nearly unaffected by the byproducts in your system. If you are in a pinch or low on funds, a worm-gear clamp is likely to support your system just fine. These clamps require a specific installation process to ensure appropriate torque is placed on the nut, allowing for ideal operation of the tensioning portion of the clamp.
The fittings use internal O-rings to provide an airtight seal for the pipe and heat exchanger. Once the system is complete, we recommend installing a catch can to ensure that the system remains clean.
If you are having issues with getting the coupler onto the pipe, use some dish soap or hairspray to temporarily lubricate the surface for easy installation.
Be sure to get into high boost once the vehicle is warm, to make certain all connections are properly secured. Keep an eye on our blog for more informative articles on vehicle maintenance, component replacement, and product build threads.
As you mentioned, the rails are stainless steel, so once you start scratching that, it's rust city.
The Pink Pearl is soft enough that it won't scratch the track, but does a great job polishing it. We can’t tell you what that will be, and be advised you can spend your time better elsewhere. That is, unless you want to personally audition different cables on your specific gear, and at that point, you’ve found the best for your ear and your system, but not necessarily the best for anyone else.
I am neither a “true believer” when it comes to cables (spend all you can!) nor an absolute skeptic (all speaker cables sound the same!). This initial list had over 140 products, and that’s only the ones that weren’t obviously overpriced or otherwise obviously undesirable.
Confusingly, the wire gets thicker as the numbers go down—12 gauge is thicker than 18 gauge. This isn’t to say they sounded the same, we each had cables we liked better than others… but our rankings couldn’t have been more different. Though the difference was still subtle, a difference was noticeable and repeatable across different music selections and seating positions. We were fairly confident in our choice (not nearly as much as we had been with the other test), and that choice turned out to be… the 14 gauge.
In fact, this result proved my original premise (annoyingly so): that different wire can sound different, because it’s slightly changing the electrical properties of the entire system. These can change depending on the gauge of the wire, the length of the wire, the material of the wire, and so on.
For example, one cable may change the frequency a crossover operates at slightly, causing a change in the speaker’s sonic properties. One of the people he talked to was Allan Devantier, manager of acoustic research at Harman International (makers of JBL, Infinity, and Revel).
If you’re not up for the science, he concludes with, “There is no magic number when choosing what gauge to use over a specific distance since the system dynamics are often too complex. So while I think the Monoprice 2747 is going to be the best option for just about everyone, if you really want to spend more to potentially get the “perfect” cables for you, I can’t recommend something.
Because it was the clear winner with the reference system and nearly the same with the less-expensive speakers.
Also, maybe don’t be so quick to judge those who say they hear differences among speaker cables. They’re all vastly more expensive per foot than our pick, and as he and we found, any minute difference in sound quality is going to vary per speaker system. Impedance was below measurement range of Clio FW (which is designed to measure any common inductor).
Pipe diameter can be enlarged to increase flow, which is common with the kits offered by Mishimoto.
A tube-and-fin design is more commonly equipped on vehicles from the factory due to its light weight and lower expense. Compressor surge occurs when air pressure after the housing is higher than what the unit itself can maintain. If the leak is cutting boost, the turbocharger will be forced to work harder to produce the necessary amount. Check with your buddies; maybe you can borrow a set in exchange for a case of beer (okay, maybe a six-pack!).


As we’ve seen with the use of plastic on engine cooling systems, the repetitive oscillation effects of temperature and pressure can degrade the plastic, leading to an eventual failure. Often this oil can make its way underneath your boot, coating the sealing surface of your pipe. While not exceeding the limits, this is getting pretty close to the recommended operation temperature.
This pressure is evacuated from the crankcase and is routed into the intake system to be burned in the combustion process. It should also be noted that we have several diesel customers running boost pressure at over 100 psi. Check the section below for more information on boot materials and improving the pressure tolerances of the boots in your system. This means you will have virtually zero breakdown of the coupler, resulting in a boot that will last the lifetime of your vehicle. Worm-gear clamps are generally thinner than other clamp options, meaning the force exerted on the pipe is spread over a smaller area, which is less effective. Additionally, the T-bolt clamp utilizes a bolt and nylon lock nut to ensure that the clamp pressure does not loosen over time. Pay close attention to the specs of the clamp you are purchasing to ensure that it will fit properly with your setup. Mishimoto includes these clamp types with all our diesel boot, piping, and intercooler kits to ensure the best possible seal. Mishimoto is tackling this issue in the form of CNC-machined aluminum quick-disconnect fittings that we are developing and manufacturing to replace the plastic counterparts.
Some people will only use a mile soap & water or Windex window cleaner, but I think WD-40 works good (some say it can hurt the plastic). Fix that connection, and repeat all the way around and on all lanes, until the car doesn't stop. The 2747 offers excellent value, solid construction, and, perhaps most importantly (and surprisingly), better sound quality. Even the “perfect” speaker cable will only offer the tiniest of improvements in sound quality, despite what some audiophile “believers” would have you think (see the Spend more? I believe in the process of blind listening tests with multiple people and evidence ahead of assumptions.
Along the same lines, I have no doubt there are other options buried deep on some random webpage, but who knows if Joescableshack.biz will be around in a month. As in, each cable can be different, but more expensive doesn’t mean “better,” just “different.” I entered into our testing of the actual cables with the open mind that it would be possible we’d hear a difference, but pragmatic enough that at best it’d be a very minimal difference.
When they don’t work, you’ll either get no picture, the picture will drop out intermittently, or you’ll start to get snow-like “sparkles” before the signal drops out entirely. If you’re wiring up the 5 speakers in a 5.1 speaker system, a 100-foot spool is probably better.
Allan pointed Brent towards some previous studies that showed potential frequency response differences with cables. You are absolutely better off spending your upgrade money on any other part of your system. Sure, many of them are obviously exaggerating these effects, and the ads from high-end cable companies often grossly exaggerate these effects. In other words, if you’re looking for some good speaker cable, the Monoprice fits the bill. If the system were solid and without flex, the turbocharger would move, which would result in bending or cracking of the piping or the intercooler itself. This will increase wear on internal bearings, and will also introduce greater heat into both the CAC and coolant systems. Some manufacturers include a groove in the middle of the bead to function with a specific boot. Diesel intercooler cold-side piping is not usually exposed to such high temperatures as a radiator would be; however, it will still see a great deal of pressure, especially if the truck has been modified. The internal parts of your piping and cooler are likely coated in a thin (or perhaps thick) layer of oil. When the oil enters the intake, it coats the tract, piping, intercooler, throttle body, and valves. The stock boot squishes quite easily with little pressure, while the Mishimoto boot provides greater resistance. Our goal is to design our boots with the worst-case pressure and temperature situations in mind. If you want absolutely the best product for your vehicle, and the last coupler you will ever buy, be sure Duracore™ is present in the construction. Servicing these units is quicker, cost of parts is similar, and if a seal fails, the O-ring becomes a replaceable component.
The first unit we released with such a design is our 2011+ Ford 6.7L Powerstroke cold-side intercooler pipe kit.
If you were unfortunate enough to have suffered a boot rupture, the vehicle may have done most of this work for you!
Then hook the track back up (making sure the final section is crimped good), and it should be good to go! But keep in mind that this is the least important piece of gear in your entire home theater setup and the impact it makes is negligible. And going into this piece I had no assumptions or wishes for the results to come out any way in particular. Since we’d be doing the tests blind, price would be an irrelevant factor in our sound quality judging. You want the least amount of speaker cable between your speakers and receiver, without hassles like stepping over cables.
Brent measured some very disparate cables (in price and gauge) and wrote a fascinating article called Do Speaker Cables Make a Difference? Since our picks in that round were barely better than random, it’s safe to say these 100x-more-expensive cables didn’t stand out. Instead, for those looking to get the “perfect” speaker cable for their system, I recommend getting the Monoprice (as a baseline comparison), then calculate the price per foot of other cables you’re interested in. In addition, because it’s a thick 12 gauge cable, it’s capable of much longer runs than thinner cables. If you’re looking for the absolute perfect speaker cable for your amp and speakers, the only way to figure that out is by testing them yourself, in your theater. Note that the accuracy of these instruments at such low values isn’t perfect, but the differences here are large enough (and repeatable enough) to show that differences do exist.” Jump back. While this might be a quick solution, that boot blowout is likely to occur again unless you address the issue properly.
Additionally, the boots provide connection points to separate the components, allowing for individual servicing. Aftermarket coolers generally feature a bar-and-plate core that is heavier yet more efficient for heat transfer. The bypass valve is important, as it opens up during these high-pressure instances to decrease pressure and keep the turbocharger properly in boost.
Any form of boot failure is going to cost you money one way or the other, money that could have been better spent on upgrades! Either way, an intact bead roll is key for creating a solid connection between the pipe and coupler. We are already beginning to see failures of these plastic pipes, and we are working diligently on an aluminum solution (6.7L Powerstroke already released!). That being said, there are far better materials to use for boot construction, as we at Mishimoto have found. The best thing to do in this situation is to get the vehicle safely off the road and attempt to replace the boot before driving any appreciable distance. If your intercooler system is seeing temperatures this high, you have much bigger problems than a boot concern. As we mentioned earlier, several of our customers are using our boots in extremely high-pressure systems (100+ psi) without any issues. Because of the design, clamps can loosen after repetitive pressure oscillations, which can result in separation of a boot from the pipe. These connection points provide an audible click when properly seated, which eliminates the need to torque a clamp or properly seat a hose. If everything about your system is perfect, I still think the money is better spent on something else. It’s the safest bet and best deal for those not wanting to spend the time trying out multiple cables to find the “best” with their system.
If you have a modified car or truck that produces an absurd amount of boost, pay close attention to this article for tips about selecting the right products for the job and creating a reliable system. The lower the temperature, the greater the density of the charge of air, meaning it contains more oxygen per volume. These coolers are constructed with a series of bars and plates to create an internal area for airflow.
This component can be found mounted to the intake piping, with a vacuum line running to the engine. A simple $100 boot kit replacement could prevent thousands of dollars being spent on parts and labor to repair the damage.
A bunch of awesome build guides exist that utilize components found in any hardware store, saving you quite a bit of money. If you are having issues installing a very tight boot, a few home products can come in handy. Although not optimal for performance, this does create a clean engine that requires no emptying of byproducts and contaminants.
We could, though, repeatedly pick out which cable sounded better and have that pick consistently be the same cable. More expensive cables don’t sound “better” they can only, maybe, sound “different.” More about this in the “Spend more?” section. No one wants to be left on the side of the road in frigid weather when a cheap boot decides to commit suicide.
This greater density (oxygen) will provide a more efficient combustion process that will create more power, better fuel economy, and be less prone to detonation.
These components are then attached directly to external fins that work to transfer heat from the internal air.
Ideally, these contaminants should be separated, collected, and disposed of, which can be done easily with the use of a catch can system.
As you can see in the chart, the results with the two 12-ga cables were only subtly different. A typical performance upgrade would move to a larger-volume bar-and-plate core, which will improve the transfer of heat, thereby lowering intake temperatures.
A catch can separates the oil and fuel byproducts from the air, captures it in a can, and allows for removal of these contaminants before they affect your CAC system. I mention this, not just because it’s worth pointing out, but to assuage some that I’m not the type of person that thinks people should spend a lot of money on cables. In the early days of stock turbo charging, some vehicle models were not equipped with an intercooler system.
The intercooler is installed between the turbocharger and engine, as shown in the diagram above. You could also use a small amount of dish soap, which will also make the surface slick during install and then tack up when dry. Over time, manufacturers were exposed to the necessity of this system, and it is now commonplace.



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