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GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 7UNUSUAL COMPLAINTS andSTORIES FROM THE TRENCHESOccasionally you will run into an unusual problem that requires you to scratch your head a bit.
GOFAR Services, LLC - Appliance Repair Houston, TX - Chapter 4COMPRESSOR IS RUNNINGBUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDCOMPRESSOR IS RUNNING BUT REFRIGERATOR IS NOT COLDBefore you perform any of the other tests in this chapter, make sure that the compressor is running. If you know the basic systems and what they do, you can usually figure out what's going on.
If it is not running, see Chapter 5.Some refrigerators are very quiet and smooth when they operate.
Following is a smattering of some of the more unusual or flukey things that I've run into as a home service technician:7-1 KID CAPERSIf your fridge is warm, always check your controls first.
Many a time, I was called to someone's house on a "warm fridge" complaint, only to find that the controls had been magically shut off. When the little darlings of the household were queried about this divine occurrence, you could literally see the halo forming around their heads.
One inch of ice in 3 days !!!It wasreal windy most of the day and I spent more time in the EskimoQuick Fish 3.The two holes in the shelter provided some steady action for perch and bluegills. Standing beside the refrigerator that hadn't moved an inch in all of his (or her) six years, the child would inevitably reply: "What refrigerator, Mom?" I'm sure that my soul will burn in hell, but it was no moral dilemma for me to charge the 30 dollar service fee in such cases. The death lull kicked in around1230 and fishing picked back up again at 3pm.I landed the usual residents of the lake-- a few trout, afew nice crappies, perch and gills. One fellow whose unit I "fixed" in this way lost well over 500 dollars worth of meats from his packed-full deep freezer. Only one time did I see a truly unexplainable occurrence of the controls getting shut off. This was a single lady of about 55 with no kids, who had owned the refrigerator for over 25 years. If you are still unsure and you own an ammeter, test the current draw of the compressor at the compressor leads. You might save yourself a lotta time, trouble, and expense.7-2 THE HOLE-IN-THE-WALL GANGOne of the more perplexing problems that I ran into was a young couple (with 4 or 5 kids) that had a warm fridge. Upon investigation, I discovered that the Freon tubes leading to andfrom the evaporator (above it on their side-by-side fridge) were heavily frosted with clear, solid ice. Plenty ofpanfish with a few perch hitting the 9-inch mark and a crappie thatwas almost 10 inches.I caught trout sporadically throughout the day, ending with 9.
Also, the wires leading to the evaporator fan and defrost heater were heavily caked with solid ice.
I didn't understand that frost pattern at all, and I was rushed that day, so I replaced the defrost timer and melted the ice, fully figuring I'd get a callback.
Same problem, same weird frost pattern.I took off the evaporator cover panel and just stood there and STARED at the thing for about ten minutes. If the knob has an "off" setting which stops the compressor from running, it is thecold control.In the absence of an "off" setting, the easiest way to tell them apart is to pull the plastic knob off the control. The idea is to keep the compartment at a different temperature from the rest of the food compartment; a more optimum temperature for the particular food that you're keeping in these compartments. But at least the kids didn't do it this time. 7-3 DOOR SEALS AND ALIGNMENTI personally think that door seals are one of the most misunderstood pieces of the refrigerator. Ask a do-it-yourselfer about why his fridge is warm, and the first thing he'll say after "I don't do Freon" is "but let's check the door seals." Door seals rarely have problems over the life of the fridge. This is known as "sweating." So-called "Energy Saver" switches control small, low-wattage "mullion" heaters in the side and door panels that prevent the outside of the refrigerator from getting cool enough for sweating to occur.
The only ones I've seen go bad are in households that have dogs or cats that like to chew or sharpen their claws on them, or kids (there's those pesky kids again) that like to climb or hang on the refrigerator door.
A really bad door seal problem ismost likely to show up as a defrost problem, due to humid air getting into the fridge. Door seals are magnetically held to the door frame and mullions. Air flows over it by convection; the warm air rises and is replaced by cooler air from below. A magnetic tip may prevent you from going crazy trying to hold the driver, the screw and the seal at the same time.
Teddy told me the lake is completed covered and the ice might be about 1 inch orso.Teddy has patrolled and lived next toAntietam Lakealmostall his life and he knows the lake. The idea is to prevent the plastic inner door liner (or shelving) from drifting around — if you have to re-align it, it can be a long, frustrating, trial-and-error process.
The new seal will fit in the same way as the old one came out.You are much more likely to have a door alignment problem or warping. Feel for a steady flow of warm air from the drain pan side; it should be obvious (see Figure 11). If the measurements indicate that the door is badly out of alignment, re-align it be loosening the hinges slightly (one hinge at a time) and shifting the door around. If it's metal, you may be able to bend it slightly to solve your problem.7-4 MOVING DAYIf you have to move your fridge for any reason, make sure that you keep it upright. If you turn it on its side there's a strong probability that the compressor oil will run out of the compressor and into the condenser, and when you start the fridge, the compressor will burn out within a few hours or even minutes, for lack of lubrication. I've heard of people getting lucky and getting away with it; maybe they just happened to lay it on the "lucky" side of the fridge.
It has the veryimportantjob of directing airflow beneath the fridge, assuring that the condenser fan is drawing air over the condenser and not just sucking air in through the back of the fridge. If your fridge has been laid on its side, stand it upright again but don't plug it in for a day or two. Just hope that either the oil drains back into the compressor or that it didn't run out in the first place. 7-5 A SHOCKING EXPERIENCE (MULLION HEATERS)Once I was called to the home of a little old dog-breeder who had complained of beingshocked while opening his refrigerator door. They are sealed units and cannot be rebuilt.Replacing the condenser fan motor can be dirty and difficult. When I arrived, I couldn't feel anything at all — until once I happened to be leaning against the metal door of his oven (opposite his fridge) when I touched his door — ZAP! I put a volt meter between the two doors and discovered 50 volts!! It turned out that the mullion (anti-sweat) heater (see section 4-1) in his door had shorted, and was grounding wherever it could — right through him to the oven door. When installing a new motor with bracket mounts, it may be easier to install the brackets loosely on the motor until you can locate the mounting screws in their holes. I disabled the heater by disconnecting and insulating the heater leads at the base of the door, where they went into the fridge. Thus, when trouble-shooting the evaporator fan, you must depress the door switch(es).Open your freezer door, depress all door switches and listen for the evaporator fan. This story is made even more interesting by the fact that the little old dog-breeder's wife had just had open-heart surgery and a pacemaker installed three weeks before. I shudder to think what could have happened had she touched the fridge. Another interesting observation about mullion heaters is that if your fridge starts to become warm, one of the first signs may be that the door jamb start to feel downright hot.
This happens when the refrigerator is no longer removing heat from the doorframe and the mullion heater inside. Look first for a separate access panel or a tower within the freezer that houses the fan (Figure 14). Upon investigation, I found that a mouse, apparently seeking the warmth of the compressor, had crawled into there and died (whether from the heat of the compressor or from getting struck by the condenser fan, I don't know.) Anyway, he got stuck to the floor pan near the condenser fan and as he dried out, his feet and tail curled up until they finally got stuck in and stopped the condenser fan. Check for anything that may be blocking the fan, including ice from a backed-up defrost drain or a frost problem.
This can cause electrical problems, or loose insulation might get caught in the condenser fan.
If nothing is blocking the fan and it still does not run, check for voltage across the fan motor leads (with the door switch depressed, of course.)If you have voltage across the fan motor leads, the fan motor is bad.
Icemakers have a water solenoid valve mounted on the back of the fridge, usually behind the back bottom panel, and a water tube that leads straight up the back of the fridge to the icemaker. Door dispensers have a similar water solenoid valve with a water tube that leads beneath the fridge and into the door through a hollow hinge. There isplenty of rainfall predicted for that area.Most of the fish sitting in the estuary should be entering the river as I type this.
Some units were built with a removable interior shelf that also shut off the light by contacting the door switch. Itcancause ice to build up in the internal ductwork.If you hear a "whistling" or "warbling" noise emanating from the fan motor itself or from the inside of the food or freezer compartment, it is probably coming from the evaporator fan motor.
If the light does not shut off well before the door is fully closed, test the switch and look at its closing mechanism and see what's happening.7-9 BAD ODORSTo my experience, this is one of the toughest problems to solve. Anglers tend to give you space, the scenery is beautiful and the Osprey's always put on a show. I have been called out on a variety of "bad odor" complaints, and rarely are they solvable.
Modern fridges, with few exceptions, have plastic interiors that do absorb odors to some degree, rather than the porcelain interiors standard in days of yore.
If you have an odor problem, it may help to keep an open box of baking soda in there, or to wash out the interior of the fridge with a very mild bleach solution. If your fridge has had a meltdown (thawed out with everything in it), try pulling off whatever panels you can and see if any meat blood or other smelly stuff has gotten under them. Styrofoam panels can absorb odors, too, but try washing with a mild soap solution. One semi-solvable odor problem that I ran into was a fellow whose fire-engine red fridge was getting warm and it had an absolutely acrid smell within. It turned out that the defrost heater lead within the defrost compartment had shorted out and burned off a bunch of its heavy rubber insulation, then melted itself so the defrost system was not working.
They don't cost much.REPLACING THE EVAPORATOR FAN MOTORIn replacing the fan motor, you must make sure that the rotation of the new fan motor is the same as the old one.
I fixed the fridge, but I do not know if he ever got out the burnt-rubber smell.7-10 FIX THE LITTLE STUFFHave you had a broken door catch or handle? The easiest way to do this is to look for the shading poles on the old fan motor (Figure 16).If they are on opposite corners from the ones on the new fan motor core, it is a simple enough task to reverse the new rotor in its core. Do not remove the icemaker (if installed.)Look at and feel the panel covering the bottom or back of the freezer compartment. Wednesday was spent in the upper fly zone and wasslow in the morning but pretty consistent in the afternoon. You will see a removable panel covering the entire back or bottom of your freezer compartment. Plastic parts are usually not that expensive; though things like shelves usually must be gotten through the dealer or factory warehouse. Make sure the power is off the refrigerator before disassembling any lighting circuit.On some bottom-evap models, you may have to remove some of the plastic moulding around the door frame to access some of the evaporator panel screws.
Special appliance light bulbs are a couple of bucks at your nearest appliance parts dealer. How much is your peace of mind worth?7-11 STRANGE NOISESActually, there aren't too many things in a fridge that can cause a lot of noise. A few that you might commonly hear are: A rattling or a buzzing noise might be coming from the evaporator or condenser fan hitting something. It may also be that the defrost drain pan or compressor mounts are loose and something is vibrating a bit. A whistling or warbling sound usually is coming from the evaporator fan motor. Ialso landed a smallmouth bass, a few small brown trout, afew small rainbows (steelhead smolts ?), a fallfishand a baby AtlanticSalmon.


Replace as described in section 4-3. A hissing or gurgling sound might happen for a few minutes after the compressor shuts off. This can usually be accomplished by placing a pan of very hot water in various places on the panel, or by blowing warm air on it with a blow-dryer. The Mohawk egg pattern accounted for many smaller fish and the salmon sized Light Spruce fly produced a few hookups.
Last years--One Day Trip-- hot fly,Olive bugger with White marabou tail and redcrystal flash also received plenty of attention and did account for 2 fish. If there is no evaporator fan running, you may hear the Freon gurgling through the evaporator at any time the fridge is running.7-12 FIRE IN THE FRIDGE!!!Okay, you're the tech. The guyI was fishing withused plenty of flies with smaller bucktail flies doing most of the damage. You get a frantic call from a customer saying there's a red glow in the bottom of the freezer in his side-by-side; he's afraid that something's burning.
He didhook-up with a few fish while usingmy Death Stonefly, landing one nice Coho.I can tell you this---the next few weeks will provide some serious action.
There are fish in the system at this moment and with the water release at 1800 CFS and the rain. Therefore, when you are diagnosing a defrost problem, it's a good idea to try to avoid melting the ice encasing the terminating thermostat until you've made your diagnosis. If the thermostat opens before you've had a chance to see if the heater works, you'll have to by-pass it. What do you do? If you're me, you grab a screwdriver, reach down to the defrost timer and set it on "defrost" again.
Then you reach into your tool kit for your trusty, dusty extendable inspection mirror. You show the customer, via the mirror, the red-glowing defrost heater. You explain the defrost system and why he's never noticed a red glow before: When the light bulb was working, the interior of the fridge was so bright that he just couldn'tsee that dim red glow. There are many styles, but most are variations of the three types pictured in Figure 20.Aback-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted vertically against theinside back wallof the freezer compartment. These may be bottom freezer models, side-by-sides (Figure 17) or top freezer models (Figure 18.)Abottom-evaporatormodel is one with the evaporator mounted horizontally (flat) beneath a panel on thebottomof the freezer compartment (Figure 19).
If you know the basic systems and what they do, you can usually figure out what's going on.
Does it have a fluffy (snowy) white consistency, or is it solid and clear-ish or slightly milky white-ish?Check the frostpattern. Or is it not frosted at all?On back-evap models, examine the drain pan directly beneath the evaporator. Is it clear, or is it filled with solid ice?Each of these symptoms indicates a different problem. If you have lots of white, snowy ice, keep reading.4-5 DEFROST SYSTEMIf the frost is snowy and white in appearance, you have a defrost problem. The three main components of the defrost system are the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the terminating thermostat.4-5(a) DEFROST TIMERS AND ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROLIn most older refrigerators and some newer ones, a motor-driven timer (Figure 21) is used to stop the compressor and initiate a defrost cycle. If you have a Whirlpool or Kenmore refrigerator with a flex-tray icemaker, the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker.
This is true whether you are using the icemaker to make ice or not; it is running constantly to time your defrost cycles. If you have a defrost problem and you have one of these machines, follow the instructions in section 4-6.Nowadays, refrigerators are being made as efficient as possible, due in no small part to government energy efficiency requirements.
Defrost heaters use a lot of energy, so designers are mimimizing the total amount of time that the heater is energized. Such factors include ambient humidity and temperature, the water content and temperature of the food you put into the fridge, icemaking within the freezer, and how often the door is opened and closed.For example, if you go away on vacation for a week, the refrigerator door will obviously not be opened for a long time. Less humid air will enter the fridge than if someone was at home, and opening and closing the door. The pool we were fishing was loaded with suckers and chubs and I did see a few trout and a couple of nice sized smallmouth bass. Frost buildup will be much slower than usual, so the refrigerator will not need to be defrosted as often as normal. It also will not need to be chilled as often, so compressor run times will be shorter and less frequent.Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions.
Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.To make decisions about the correct defrost duration and interval, the control board must have input about the conditions that the fridge is operating under. Each manufacturer uses a different logic scheme and different inputs, such as door open time, compressor run time, duration of the previous defrost cycle, and duration and intervals of door openings.Door open info is provided to the logic board by the door switch - the same one that controls the refrigerator's internal lights. For example, the ADC is programmed with a maximum amount of time that the heater can stay on; say, for 16 minutes. Often they are mounted under a cover plate or in a bracket that hides all but the advancement pinion. Any questions as to what to tie, just shoot me an email or use the Contact 2Bonthewater page.
The easiest way to recognize them is that the harness connection is always labelled with the compressor, defrost heater, L1 and L2.
The easiest way to see the heater is to look for the heavy, rubber-coated wires leading to it; one on each end. If you turn it on its side there's a strong probability that the compressor oil will run out of the compressor and into the condenser, and when you start the fridge, the compressor will burn out within a few hours or even minutes, for lack of lubrication. All that cold water coming from a quarry and the creek itself in that area is near lifeless.
The element has no protective tubing and generally wraps around beneath the evaporator in a large "U" shape.You must exercise caution when handling these heaters to prevent burning yourself.
If your fridge has been laid on its side, stand it upright again but don't plug it in for a day or two. The bridge is now being painted a Hunter Green color.Most of the creeks in the OleyValley are really low.
Even with the rain, the creeks remain very low.A I have a trip scheduled to the Salmon River planned inlate September thanks to Jack.
When I arrived, I couldn't feel anything at all — until once I happened to be leaning against the metal door of his oven (opposite his fridge) when I touched his door — ZAP! Without Jack's kindness and awesomeness, I would not be going salmon fishing.A I have startedtyingflies for the upcoming salmon trip. If that happens, you want to turn the heater off soon after the ice melts, to prevent the evaporator compartment from heating up too much.
If theterminating thermostatsenses too high a temperature in the compartment, it opens, and cuts power to the heater. The thermostat will then stay open until the compartment again reaches a very low temperature.
In other words, it waits to reset itself until the cooling cycle starts again.If the evaporator is more heavily frosted, the ice may not all melt within the time allotted by the timer. This story is made even more interesting by the fact that the little old dog-breeder's wife had just had open-heart surgery and a pacemaker installed three weeks before.
Zoe competed in a National Beauty pageant and won honorable mention in the beauty competition (FYI -- Zoe wears no make-up, fake hairor fake teethand she competes in the natural division--she is my little girl and I would never DRESS HER UP like all those crazy folks you see on TV).
The heater will stay on until thetimerstops the defrost cycle, and restarts the cooling cycle.If you initiate defrost (turn the timer on) and the heaterdoes notheat up, then usually the heater or terminating thermostat is bad. We dressed as fishermen, answered a question about each other and then Zoe did some fly casting on stage.
If you initiate defrost and the heaterdoesturn on, then usually the timer or ADC board is bad, and you must replace it.To diagnose which component is bad, you must initiate the defrost mode, or test continuity through the defrost heater and terminating thermostat.
Zoe was crowned Little Queen when she won the Pennsylvania state pageant back in 2006 while competing in a Sunburst pageant.
There are plenty of out of the way smaller streams that are teeming with Smallmouths, Carp and a variety of Panfish. Within ten minutes (usually much less) you should be able to see a red glow from the defrost heater(s), which is (are) mounted beneath the evaporator.If you have an aluminum-tube heater as described in section 4-5(b), it will not glow red, but youwillsee ice melting away from its coils. Timers can get old, worn and coked up with dust, and may develop hard spots in the bearings.
If youdo nothear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, then it is necessary to investigate a little further.
Perkiomen Creek -- air temp 89 degrees, checked the temperature at two spots, temps were 70 and 69 degrees -- Taken between 415-425 pmA Manatawny Creek -- air temp was 88 degrees, checked the temperature at three spots, temps were 76 degrees at Red Covered Bridge, 74 degrees above TIKI bar and 76 degrees below the Rt. If you cannot tell for sure, get the information for your model fridge from your parts man. DIAGNOSIS: DEFROST HEATER AND TERMINATING THERMOSTATIf you do not hear or see indications that the defrost heater is working, you could be looking at one of several different problems. This heatwave has made most ofthe local trout streams too warm to fishfor the catch and release angler. The heatermaybe so icebound that it would takehoursfor the heater to melt enough ice for you to see the heater begin to work. Maiden Creek below Ontelaunee Lake should provide anglers with some fishthat are willing to bite.
If they are not connected to a terminal block, you will need to cut the leads to test for continuity. Make sure you're not testing continuity across the terminating thermostat too; it may be wide open above 40 or 50 degrees. You can find Carp, Smallmouth Bass, Largemouth Bassand a wide assortment of panfish to keep you busy.
Take some cold water with you !!!Your best way to keep the water cool is to freeze a bottle or two of water the night before you head out. As the day heats up, the water bottles will slowly melt, leaving you with nice cold waterto drink throughout the day. With glass-tube heaters, be careful that the glass is not cracked or broken and that you do not cut yourself.
How much is your peace of mind worth?7-11 STRANGE NOISESActually, there aren't too many things in a fridge that can cause a lot of noise. It's cheap.If you have an ammeter, try to determine if the heater is drawing any power before you melt any ice. In trying to find the heater leads, be careful that you do not melt so much ice that the terminating thermostat opens. If you suspect that the terminating thermostat might be open, temporarily bypass the terminating thermostat with an alligator jumper as described below.If you cannot find the heater leads, an alternativeis to check the current in one lead of the main power cord. Double-check this diagnosis by jumping across (shorting) the terminating thermostat with your alligator jumpers.


If the two thermostat leads are not on a terminal block, you will have to cut the leads to jump the thermostat. I fished for 30-minutes on Manatawny and landed 2 wild browns on a tan caddis dry fly in the area where the water temp was 68 degrees. Remember that it's a wet environment.LIFTING THE EVAPORATORIf you have a bottom-evap model fridge, replacing the heater will involve the delicate task of lifting the evaporator up to get to the heater.
Temperature wise, if it is 90 degrees outside, pretty sure most, if not all of the local trout waters will be at 70 degrees or higher. If you break or puncture one of those tubes, you're looking at a potentially expensive sealed system repair.Thaw out the evaporator as thoroughly as is humanly possible. We don't wantto kill the trout.The trout that survive through the summer will offerus great fishing in the fall. I have not made a trip to the Schuylkill River as of yet, but I'd bet the house that the smallie action should be pretty darn good. Remove the evaporator mounting screws (if there are any) and gently lift up the end of the evaporator opposite the tubes. Prop up the evaporator with a blunt instrument (I use my electrical pliers or a flashlight) and change the heater.
Do what you went in there to do, but as much as possible, avoid moving the evaporator around too much.When you finish, gently lower the evaporator back into place.
You can also takeyour watercraft outbefore Epler atCross Keys Road or at Muhlenburg Township park which is below the PFBC Epler Access.
The hard tray is finished in a dark gray or black color and has rotating fingers that eject the cubes from the unit; the flex-tray has a white plastic, flexible tray that inverts and twists to eject, much the same as a manual ice cube tray would work. The hard-tray and separate defrost timer is by far the more common arrangement.This defrost system has the same components described in the defrost system in section 4-5, except that the defrost timer is integrated into the icemaker. There is little room to fish, unless you don't mind walking the shoreline that is covered with all types of vegetation, including Poison Ivy.
However, the actual switch that controls the heater is accessible.Remove the icemaker and the evaporator panel as described in section 4-4. Pleny of fish to be caught in this body of water, that is if you can get to them.A Manatawny Creek fished OK. Take the plastic cover off the face of the icemaker and remove the three screws holding the metal faceplate to the icemaker head. Plug the icemaker back into its electrical socket and observe the drive motor in the upper lefthand corner of the icemaker head. The defrost switch is the small, rectangular switch in the upper righthand corner of the icemaker head. Using electrical tape, tape it out of the way so it does not touch any other metal object in the icemaker head. Using your resistance meter, you should see continuity (and no resistance) between the empty terminal (where the BLACK lead was) and the PINK terminal.You should see NO continuity between the empty (BLACK) and ORANGE terminal. When the switch toggle is depressed, continuity will be just the opposite: BLACK-ORANGE-CONTINUITY, BLACK-PINK-NO CONTINUITY. If the switch is okay, the problem is probably your defrost heater or terminating thermostat. Alignment of the gears is critical; follow the instructions that come with the gear sets carefully.
This stretch used to provide some very nice smallmouth action, but the last few trips here have been poor. If you replace the motor, you will have to re-align the defrost timing gear mechanism.RE-ASSEMBLYIf you have not removed the defrost timing gear housing from the back of the icemaker head or the motor from the front of the head, you will not need to re-align thedefrost timinggear mechanism. However, youwillneed to realign thedrivegear mechanism.Align the hole in the small drive gear with the alignment hole in the icemaker head and install the gear. If they do not line up perfectly, momentarily plug the icemaker in or apply 110 volt power to the two center leads of the plug This will turn the drive motor slightly. Switched to a spent spinner pattern and hooked up twice--snapped one off and landed a nice stocker brown. The water is up from recent rains inthe valley, but the stream was clear and in perfect condition.
Lift the spring-loaded shut-off arm (ice level sensor) as you install the cam and let it rest in the cam hollow. The Schuylkill River and a few tribs shouldprovide any cat or carp angler with a few bites each nite.
Channel catfish prefer dead baits andsmaller live bait, while the Flatheads prefer larger live bait. Carp will eatsmaller live bait including minnows andcrayfish along with the standard fare of homemade MUSH bait or whole kernel corn.The bottom line is--It doesn't really matter what bait you areusing. Carefully install the metal cover plate, making sure the end of the wire shut-off arm (ice level sensor) is in its pivot hole in the metal cover plate. But, by now it was pitch black and it was raining pretty good and thelightning made it look like the 4th of July came early.I managed to land 2 fish on my emerger pattern androll 2 other trout. Make sure the icemaker is turned on (ice level sensor arm is down) or it won't make ice.4-7 HOT GAS DEFROST PROBLEMSIf you have a refrigerator with a hot gas defrost system, the defrost mechanism is somewhat different from those described in previous sections of this book.
If you suspect that you might have a hot-gas defroster but you are not sure, ask your appliance parts dealer. Most of these refrigerators were built before 1970, but not all.The main difference in a hot gas system is that there is no electrical heater or separate terminating thermostat.
Started out at the mouth of Sacony Creek but there was some serious bridge work going on, so I left after a few casts.
The defrost cycle is controlled by a defrost timer similar to the one you'll find in electric defrost systems, but the timer controls asolenoid valveinstead of aheater.
Caught some nice bluegills, onebrown trout, pumpkinseeds, green sunfish, agolden shiner and I almost hooked into a very nice largemouth bass. These units have a temperature sensing bulb, similar to that found on the cold control (see section 4-9 and Figures 21 and 33) as a part of the timer. Kids and water mean plenty of noise,lots of splashing and lots offun.Normally, 750pm is about the timethe sulphurs start popping off. Its function is to sense the temperature of the evaporator so the defrost mechanism knows when to shut off.Troubleshooting a defrost problem in this system involves two steps. Wait and watch your evaporator for 10-15 minutes.If the frost starts to melt, then your defrost timer has gone bad.
Thoroughly melt the rest of the frost from your evaporator and replace the defrost timer.If the frost doesnotstart to melt, then your defrost solenoid is probably bad.
Fortunately, the defrost solenoid is usually designed so the electrical coil can be replaced without cutting into the sealed system.
I saw some Iso's and huge stoneflies coming off and flying around.I caught a trophy Bluegill, no kidding check out the picture, almost 9 inches. Trace the Freon tubing until you find electrical wires joining the tubing at a certain point.
UNEVEN FROST PATTERNS, OR NO FROST AT ALLThe evaporator should be bitterly cold to the touch.
If the evaporator is either slightly cool or not cold at all, and your compressor is runningconstantly(not short-cycling; see section 4-9) you have a more serious problem. The same diagnosis applies if just the first coil or two in the evaporator is (are) frosted and the rest are relatively free of ice or perhaps even lukewarm.What's happening is that the Freon is not getting compressed enough in the compressor. This could be due to two causes: either the amount of Freon in the system is low, or the compressor is worn out. Itmayonly require recharging the Freon system, which, depending on the refrigerant used, may cost you a little, or a LOT.
I have only seen one exception to this diagnosis, and this is described in section 7-2.Don't let the age of the refrigerator affect your diagnosis.
Not too long ago, one of the largest appliance companies put out a series of refrigerators with compressors that were either poorly designed or poorly constructed; I never did find out which. These were their giant, 20 to 25 cubic-foot flagship models, with techno-marvelous gadgets like digital self-diagnosis and ice and water in the door, and they were built with compressors that wore out within 2 years.Fortunately, the biggest and best companies warrant their refrigerators for five years or more, so these refrigerators were still covered under warranty.
COLD CONTROLIf your refrigerator is cold but not as cold as usual, and you cannot trace it to any of the other problems in this chapter, your cold control may be defective. To test its cut-in and cut-out temperatures, you can try putting the capillary bulb in ice water and measuring the temperature with a thermometer, but it's a wet, messy, job and it's difficult to control the temperatures.
The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometerbulb; in fact, the end of the capillary tube may have a bulb. The tube and bulbmaybe coiled right next to the cold control, or they may be led away to another part of the compartment.If you are justtesting(electrically) the cold control, you can jumper directly from one wire lead to the other. By doing this, you are closing the switch manually, and assuming the machine is not in the defrost mode, the compressor should start.If you arereplacingthe cold control, it will be necessary to trace where the capillary tube goes, and remove the whole tubewiththe cold control.
I left my headlamp in the truck so I had to walkout before it got too dark and miss the potential spinner fall. I then drove to another stretch of the crick and hooked up a few times fishing a brown spent spinner. I lost them at the bank.A Fish the mornings with a brown or white spent spinner and you might get a few takes on the surface. My favorite is a "John's Spring Creek Pupa" tied in size 18 and 20 (Trout Flies of The East--page 93).
I caught two brookies on a CDC sulphur dry fly and the rest of the fish were caught with nymphs. What an amazing fish, especially on a 2 wt bamboo fly rod with a fly reel that is dated to the 1930's or 1940's. What a specimen.He looked like a submarine swimming in the water !!My first impression of the leviathan is that it was a wild fish.
Tonights fishing provided a mixed bag of fish, a few smallwild brown trout, along with a few stocker browns, stockerrainbows and the brook trout. I topped it all off with a visit to Ted's house to show off the bamboo fly rod and talk shop.
It was about 40 degrees and raining.I didroll a larger fish on a midge, but aside from that, it was a very slow night. Cast down and across and hop the flies upoff the bottom with quick upward lifts of the fly rod.The fish would really strike hard.
I still have not figured out whyone day I will catch all browns, one day I will catch all rainbows and some days, you will catch a little of everything.



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