We’ve discussed before how waves on the ocean have the ability to reinforce other waves. But anyone who loves the beach can tell you about the distinctive sound of the ocean hitting the sand: Woooosh. That woosh is telling us something: it’s telling us that long waves are the ones hitting the beach, not small and choppy ones!
There’s an interesting culling process that takes place out in the ocean where waves are being formed.


Small waves combine together to form larger waves, but depending on how long the waves are, there’s also the possibility of forming a whitecap. So they get away quickly from the windy region where they were first formed, and roll on smoothly toward the beach.
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This is what’s happening when you see whitish foam being tossed around out on the ocean.
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