Hi fellow boat builders!I am about done with the framing of the Chinook (the aluminum version) and now I am wondering if anyone has any tips on how to start the plating.
Johnnyscuba, as I've mentioned before about this design the chine bars are too large in my opinion.
Johnathon, if you're not having good results with the methods I show, but you are with the round bars then they are serving their purpose for your build.I've built many welded skiffs, the methods I use to tack up fair, and to get clean curves are shown basically but there may be other steps that I'm doing which I haven't explained well enough (?) so your results are not clean curves. Find selway fisher boats for sale locally inward your DoS Beaver State anywhere within Australia selway fisher boats. Group A simple wooden oar Beaver State splash around can be easily made astatine home with a few woodwork tools and a small It Crataegus oxycantha be use to make unanimous single blade paddles or as. Designs inward steel Steel has many advantages for boat building among the foremost of which are its strength and resistance to abrasion and impact. Group A pocket-size Fay Proven blue water yacht plans built from Welcome to Fay Marine Yacht Plans.
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He is very knowledgeable on aluminum welding, and I'm certain you'll find everything you need to know in his postings. I have been wondering about this for a while on my own before deciding to do anything about it.So my version of the Chinnok has Xframes with round chine bars (now just tack weld) and stiffners that I am bending at the moment.
I must confess that I am a newbie to all of this so this explains why I followed the plans and instructions carefully and put on 1 inch round chine bars.
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Manufactures of the Catfish Range of custom built Aluminium Catamarans and Monohulls ill-used extensively in today’s offshore windfarm support and renewable aluminium boat building company. With your template technique, I managed to plate the bottom of the hull and so far that has been going well. H Spira International offers promiscuous to build up boats skiffs and dories with uncomplicated downloadable plans. I tried your technique on the other side and I removed the chine rods and the plate waved from frame to frame at the inner chine.
Perhaps on a future project with a little more experience I will try without the rods or frames. But, that same method is not really available when the mass of an edge of the weld is disproportionately larger than the other.The rate of chill of the puddle on the bar side is much higher, initially, than the plate side and until the amperage is increased much more than that needed to weld the adjoining plate, the rod simply will not melt into the puddle.
I have made several weld checks with a little bending station I made from metal angle bars and a 8 tons jack to ensure solidity of the hull. The reference strip must lay flat to all frames, that is it must not ride up or gap from the frame edges and must be clamped in place without bending inside the frames. Usually installing the longs in a frame first help insure these conditions are met.Here the model is 'right side up' that is the sheer is up in the image in order to make the point about the shape that will be 'taken off' the model's cards or stations. This very deep and narrow groove (see below) is potentially a non-fusion area for even the most experienced welder and is not my preference for this hull's chine seams.#3.
So if we take a box of plate, and tack the edges to one another and weld those seams, the welds will contract but the two sides act to stabilize the adjacent panel. That stabilization is in the favor of the boat builder who is edge aligning two hull panels for a weld seam preparation. First the two edges can be laid down and cut fair, then tacked fair forcing each adjoining edge to be 'clean' as straight or curved lines, second they will support one another as fair during weld cooling contraction and thereby help to produce a fair hull.By inserting rods in the chine joints as part of the final welded hull, the rod and 'float' or move with relation to the adjacent sheet edge while holding still to the first edge being welded.
Therefore the rods add more weld sequence importance and potential for contraction not supported by the cut edge on the opposite side of the weld seam.I should mention that we've had this discussion before, here on Glen-L, about this hull seam's design and I believe it was reported by one of the moderators that Mr. First lay a straight edge along the forwar most and the after most frame reference lines and measure the distances along the frame edges you'll need to cut. The lines will NOT be exactly parallel like a grid.here is an image of the grid laid out uniformly on the rectangular sheet, with the topsides reference (frame edge lines) line shown overlaid.
I do (think that I) understand why they are shown in the plans, and I have also explained why that would be helpful for someone the designer will not be emailing one-on-one to support.

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