Coming to a design website and asking help stealing plans for a boat currently in commercial production is generally considered bad form.
Location: Eustis, FL I don't know of any free aluminum, welded jon boat plans available. Location: Washington 6 foot wide plus the flare to the sides generally comes out to a boat about 8 feet wide, which is the maximum trailerable width in most states. Location: New Orleans It depends on what type of ribs, and the attachment methods, and how much you are willing to spend. In a large commercial shop you would likely use a hydrolics press to stamp the shapes out of aluminium plate. For a one off build, either a Hand break machine if you have one available, or if not cut each piece, then weld it into place.
Location: Washington Where I come from braces are what dentists use to straighten your teeth. Location: Seattle, Washington, USA Then there is the Brace and bit when you are drilling a hole by hand using a Wood Auger Bit.
Location: The Loft Good one Saildude, there is only one tool there and yet a brace is classed as two? Location: Seattle, Washington, USA The Brace by it's self does not do much so you need the bit for the Brace to be much more than a wall hanging (OK you can also get countersinks, screwdrivers etc. Seattle is Mostly sunny today and Sunday - high about 66 degrees - - But if we wait until Tuesday or so the showers should be back to normal - Saildude View Public Profile View Saildude's Website View Saildude's Gallery Find all posts by Saildude Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Am I crazy? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Oregon Aluminum Jet Boat Plans I have made a futile attempt at finding plans for an aluminum jet sled. Location: Alaska jet sled plans Trigger, it might help if you could give a bit of back ground, have you built a welded aluminum boat before this project? Its easier, on all forums, for anyone who might offer information to form a good quality response when you provide more precise details. You should determine EXACTLy what you'll do and what you'd hire out, especially as regard the cutting of the parts; hull panels, frames and bulkheads. Since you're looking for an almost flat bottomed sled with little or no V section forward, the hull is much more simple to build. All these items will help refine the work of selecting a plans package, or help you to submit them to someone to design one for you. Location: Alaska marine design software Trigger, this forum has a rousing ongoing discussion of marine design software and will be of good assistance in trying to select a package. What I suggest you keep in mind is the design cycle, which doesn't get the press it should. It too easy to get sucked into a method where you rely on the PC's lines to start your boat, if you don't draw well by hand at least get some battens and work with them by hand-then enter the PC.
If you follow a design cycle with some care you can avoid redrawing parts of your boat that were not clearly thoughtout in a previous (more initial) stage of your design work.
I also suggest that you avoid a V in the after bottom sections -convex camber runs better under sleds and then bring in the V forward amidships section. Location: Alaska jet sled design procedure Trigger, I read on some of the forums remarks about the different marine software packages and one remark kind of stands out. I want to discourage you from taking this time as I've spent hundreds of hours downloading and setting up tests of features lists and tool functionality.
I can summarize it all by saying the remark (unattributed to its wise author) is true as far as I can say. If I could suggest any package it would be the package of software that seems the most obvious to you.
I've worked in Prosurf, MaxSurf, Rhino and several of the others until I'm blue in the mouse hand. How do you interact and what work flow method is required to draw a boat in this package or that? Location: Alaska Aluminum extrusions at the chine Trigger, many highly regarded production builders use an extrusion at the chine which holds the bottom AND the side. I would suggest that it is poor practice to incorporate this into your design for several reasons.
I think hull seams should be fully welded inside and out AND the appearance of a weld is 'welded'. The edge of 5052 plate has experienced exfoliation (peeling into layers) when it was used in these extrusions in salt water although it took a decade to show up.
The edge of the side and the edge of the bottom plates are NOT welded in the slotted chine hull joint.
I know other builders who are certain that the weld near but not on the edge of the plate makes the remaining fraction of an inch of plate loose its heat treatment without being mixed in the puddle and fused to another plate. My experience is very limited with this method of building, but I'd like to encourage you to seriously consider the advantages of inside and outside welding instead of just inside welding between the two differing alloys.
I have built a few skiffs that were lost in a storm while towing in the Gulf of AK, one was found years later on the bottom of a log pile. Location: Southern Oregon Interesting to hear the other side of the coin on this one. Location: British Columbia, Canada I have some experience with the phenomenon known as crevice corrosion. Location: Southern Oregon Good Info JD, Something I have not seen but definately makes sense.
Location: Alaska chine extrusions benefits Joey, good points about the benefits of chine extrusions regarding set up, fairing and aid in building.
Almost always built with a crew of a few and most often hanging sides was done with four guys.
I think a stringer type bead, fast hot and drag style along the outside of the slotted chine would allow the one-off builder or working team to have the advantage of the setup without building a weaker joint. Your observation is right on for a single chine sled shaped hull; the slotted chine extrusion would save lots of build effort and often these boats spend considerable time in fresh water. My preference for a cover angle shape welded over an inside edge to inside edge then double welded joint is likely overbuilding; due to long association with Alaskan commercial fishermen.
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Location: Australia You will find transoms are raked on just about anything, reason being waves are less likely to splash water into the boat. Originally Posted by Mr Efficiency You will find transoms are raked on just about anything, reason being waves are less likely to splash water into the boat. You know I was just thinking that, I've got a 15ft with a 50 and because it's over powered and heavier I do have to kinda be careful as to not have water come in the boat when slowing down. I am really interested though in playing with this program so what you're saying is I can design this boat and then print my design out through a regular printer and then trace the sides out on the aluminum and I'm set? Location: Louisiana I've come to terms I don't need a dam computer program to tell me how to be build a boat, There so many guys down here in the swamps that don't use computer programs. Originally Posted by chris3298 I've come to terms I don't need a dam computer program to tell me how to be build a boat, There so many guys down here in the swamps that don't use computer programs.
Thanks for the help everyone You really need to go back to school to become proficient at these CAD programs, not worth it for a small one-off project.
Location: Bow You can pick up a decent used 12 - 14' aluminum boat for a cpl hundred add a small trolling motor and a trailer and you are all set check out Craig's list your local paper etc. Originally Posted by LyndonJ I'd stick to conventional methods, you'l have an asset then that you can relise when you sell. On a steel boat, where you build in your details and weld them down, which would have cost exponentially more in a non metal boat, the finished steel work is thus a far greater portion of the finished boat, than it is for non metal boats.
As I point out in my book, people often fail to differentiate between resale value and resale price.
The fact that McNaughton is too dense to comprehend basic geometric principles has nothing to do with structural reality. The picture above is of wooden planking ,which has no strength across the planks , which is exactly what frames were developed for. There is nothing floppy about a finished origami hull.Such comments reveal an absolute naivety about the subject. As for the cost beatup, you were asked before just how much it would really cost on another thread (in time and dollars) to add 5 or 6 transverse bar frames to a 36 foot steel boat. Nobody said that origami hulls are floppier, they are just weaker becasue the framing is floppier than a conventional frame.
But you need to accept that some of your reasoning doesn't scale well to larger boats with much higher loads. Location: British Columbia Points 1 and 2 apply equally to longitudinals, as they are equally supported by their being welded to the hull plate, with the added structural advantage of going around a curve, yet you insist on calculating them as stand alone, with no attachment to, or support from, the hull plate.
It doesn't cost much to put 6 transverse frames in a hull, once it has been pulled together using origami methods, altho I know one guy who turned a couple of frames into a several week project, to increase his total income for the job.The point I am making is, if you put the frames up first, then try put the plate on to fit the frames, the cost and time goes up exponentially. Originally Posted by Brent Swain Points 1 and 2 apply equally to longitudinals, as they are equally supported by their being welded to the hull plate, with the added structural advantage of going around a curve, yet you insist on calculating them as stand alone, with no attachment to, or support from, the hull plate. The relevance of frames is quite necessary to make the whole ship an almost corrugate systeme, with all the strength in all the direction. Now when the round plate is transformed in chine on your design, you have an intense stress point there, and that is no good practice. As for your other boat, they all are ceiled in wood inside and seams to cost much more that a Swan.
Fisherman and commercial are tough with the money, every cent is acconted, but you don't know that.
By the way I would like to mention, a vessel of a certain size is never ever designed by one person, same for building.
We may argue about his biased opinions, about his terribly obvious lack of understanding some basic engineering, but we cannot argue that he does it to harm or insult other members. I know there are visitors here which cannot really get it together, where is the knowledge and where the anecdote. Reverse clipper bows and wine glass cross sections would be difficult but practically any other single and multi chine hull form can be done in origami. It's clear that the longitudinals go into tension, suffer stress reversals and consequently deflect more that a pre bent frame. Originally Posted by whoosh … do these boats come with lines, as iines if one wanted to draw a body plan, for tankage floors frames etc? That can be done by the software, or you can build chine model and take the strakes patterns from it.. Originally Posted by dskira When I designed and latter on built (sorry, I built too, but that is not relevant since you want to be the only one here) if we don't put frames the vessel will have been not able to do its work properly due to wickness, let alone having the cargo capacity strength needed to pay for itself and being safe. Daniel As I only build one hull a year, a couple of weeks work, and on every on I work with the owner, who's lifelong dreams are coming true , quickly before his eyes, it never gets boring. The end of the chine where the cone begins is solid plate once the chine ends, not weld, so one is not dependent on the weld for strength. Where Paul's mast goes thru the deck, a large doubler of heavier plate, plus some flat bars on edge eliminates the chances of anything wobbling . The only compression on the mast is only the weight of the mast, rigging and sails on a junk rig , unlike the tremendous compression on a marconi rig. Colvin estimates 1,000 hours for a hull and deck, something origami lets you do put together in under 100 hours.
As I pointed out in the cabin top example, a curve drastically increases the stiffness of a piece of plate . None of my boats have ever had problems getting insurance at the best rates, or passing survey. Originally Posted by Brent Swain None of my boats have ever had problems Hope it will stay that way.
Location: British Columbia I have made wineglass sterns by welding the last few inches of centreline first, before cranking the deadrise out with the hydraulic jack. As Herreschoff pointed out , in smaller boats, clipper bows tend to stop a boat dead in her tracks when they hit a steep head sea.
Many of my hulls have saved their owners from the disasters which would have resulted in most other cruising boats out there. The hull will need a lot of framing following on from that picture and I'm skeptical that in the long run with a vessel that size it might just re-allocate the build time. Roberts has a method which is said to be fast, its bottom plate then framing then the rest built bottom up. I would suggest thinking of either buying a boat from the manufacturer, likely for what it would cost to build, or looking for free plans of a similar type of boat.


The first is that maximum width of a boat on a trailer is 8' so any wider than this means you have to have special permits. You could probably do most of the entire construction of a boat in just a few steps, though the set up cost would be million.
A hand break is usually found in even small metal fabrication shops, so you might be able to either pay them to form the sheets, or rent access to the machine for a relatively small fee. In the end, I think this is what will be more productive for you, choosing the software that is the closest to your 'way of thinking'. The lap weld occurs some two or three thicknesses back from the edge of the plate and then it occurs between 6061 or 6063 depending on the alloy of the chine extrusion and the 5086 or 5052 hull plates. If you only weld one side of a slotted chine extrusion, there is a risk of creating an oxygen depleted area that is exposed to seawater.
I'll just get me some some paper draw it out go with my angles I want on the transom and sides and build the dam thing. I figure I spend enough time by the water I could find the boat I am looking for and maybe approach the owner and work out a deal where I could come and take full size patterns then reproduce the boat at home. So make up such a frame for a 40 footer, and I can bend it by hand, by simply putting one end against the wall and pushing on it. By itself, it is as floppy as hell, but once it is tacked down, with a 7 inch camber, with no structural members under it, six guys can stand and jump on it, without it buckling or deforming in any visible way. It will first twist the plating, second will wooble the deck, and third the mast will go thru the hull. I thought you knew that, but evidently you don't, since your very mean attack on my resume prove it.
There, a dumb welder with insufficient and outlasted licenses can blame a well established boatbuilder of being a novice. Their excitement , and enthusiasm in seeing a hull take shape in a few hours from flat plate, is contagious. Unless you are used to doing this type of work, asking them to do it is probably a better option though. Aluminum gravy boat building plans are easily the program of selection if you need to build up angstrom sauceboat that's built to last. Welcome to the Duckworks boat builders supply gravy boat writes down and a great deal of difficulty finding some hardware and other parts required to boatbuilding. The oxide layer on the aluminum sloughs off or is rubbed off by a small amount of flexing in the chine and can't be replaced in the expected way. Resale value is the difference between what you can get for a boat and what she cost you in the first place. The attached framing limits damage and provides safe stress paths which is not only a strength and stiffness issue but also a fatigue issue. Since your method of framing is floppier for being pre-stressed then the hull structure will buckle more easily. It does develop soft spots once the longitudinal welds are done , which is why I force flat bar beams up under it, on 18 centres , along the direction of the curve, like longitudinals , not fore and aft, across the curve , like transverse frames. The deck is weakest point, the design need more attention since some renforcement can be detrimental localizing the stress inset of diffusing it.
It is principally for this reasonableness that Al is ace metalliAluminium Boat Plans - Recreational Watercraft Plate Alloy - design, manufacture, and supply pre cut building kits and aluminum boat plans for the professional and enthusiastic home builder. Then other insignificant sources of corrosion (the tiny copper content of 60 series extrustions for example) can become major propblems. I also wonder about building the whole thing in thin plywood to use as templates once done.
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It's not how much material you put in a structure that makes it effective, it's where you put the material. Highest strake stays in one piece, lower strakes are cut in the middle and ends of the plates are connected. My current boat, with about three inches of outside curve , goes thru a head sea far more smoothly, with far less resistance.The buildup of buoyancy is far less sudden. It is of course possible to weld three plates together to get a 12' wide plate, but this is again additional cost and complexity. One get to angstrom you computer software by 254 to scoop and satiate gravy boat building boom almost extinct plant drawings anywhere online.If you always produce nascence operating room are currently planning to build the. I'm leaning towards ProChine3 as it looks like a decent low budget start, but no firm decision yet. If, on the other hand, you choose poooorrrly, you'll become adveserial toward the publisher and the software. The deck is weakest point, the design need more attention since some renforcement can be detrimental localizing the stress inset of difusing it. Aluminum boat building plans are easily the plan of choice if you want to build a boat that's built to last. The question pending is all categories of stock plans that are building the package included inwards. I want to do as much as I can with the build, but the more info as in lines, framing, plate development the better. I will definetely be around this place, I have alot to learn and there is alot of knowledge here. So you can get a reduced puncture resistance if you want, but I'd still put the required framing in. Why buy your gravy boat Building Supplies by Glen L because he knows convenient and profitable nude Boat Building Supplies-5. It is where you put the material ,and for puncture resistance, it's best put in plate thickness.



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