Photo 2—Left, a coarse 3M® Roloc™ Bristle Disc did a good job of removing paint around the repair after it was hammered back into shape.
For the patch, we cut a single piece of 745 (12 oz) Episize™ Glass Fabric for the outside and three pieces (in diminishing sizes) for the inside. We started with the single layer outside patch, applying it to the hull centered over the hole and smoothing it into the thickened mixture (Photo 6).
Photo 6—A single layer of glass was applied to the outside of the hull and smoothed into the thickened epoxy. Photo 7—Three layers of glass were laid in position on the inside of the hull and lightly squeegeed to remove trapped air.
Figured that I would post this up for guys that might be thinking about this or needing to do this.
Using pressure treated wood even coated in resin is an iffy proposition in an aluminum hulled boat.
Maybe consider painting the aluminum in contact with the PT transom wood with rhino-liner just in case? Our experience has been that the wood always seems to rot out before any visual sign of deterioration of the aluminum, even the treated wood however the newer treated wood is not the same treatment as a few years ago but now I am curious so I will investigate this further. I have seen the copper treated wood eat up flashing on my jobsites in under 18 months, don't use it on your boat. Use the form below to delete this The Home Made Aluminium Boat Powered By A Diesel Truck Engine Under image from our index. Use the form below to delete this Boats Australia Boat Designs Manufacturing Aluminium image from our index. Use the form below to delete this Broadwater Industries Custom Boats NW BC Aluminum image from our index.
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Use the form below to delete this Superior Innovation In Aluminium Boat Fabrication And Welding image from our index. John Kennedy offered his old 15' Michi-Craft canoe, saying he would bring it down from his cabin at the end of hunting season. The metal had yielded, so we cut away enough of the torn edges to allow the aluminum to lie fair. Stopper holes were drilled at the end of each tear, and the surface was prepared by wet sanding with 80-grit. Working away from the canoe, we stacked up the three inner patches and squeegeed them to make sure there was no entrapped air. You're probably better off using Marine plywood with a sealer and paint than with the newer treated lumber.
Not smiling, he asked a few weeks later “just how big a repair we could handle.” It turned out John jack-knifed his utility trailer on an icy road, punching a fist-sized hole in the stern quarter of the canoe (Photo 1).


Cut up and placed in the green city recycling bins, the canoe could be gone the next trash day.
A hammer and an auto-body bucking dolly gave us reasonable control in getting the hull close to its original shape.
Finally, we mixed 406 Colloidal Silica with the residual adhesive in our cup to make a thickened mixture suitable for filling the holes and cutaways in the canoe (Photo 5). We then centered the stack of patches over the hole on the inside of the hull and carefully laid it into place (Photo 7). This “toughened” fairing compound smoothed the outside for better hydrodynamics and the inside for cleanliness and additional scuff resistance. Clean, restore and polish with products for fiberglass, aluminum and pontoon craft with applicator mops or spray bottles.
Checking the mental Rolodex for the friend with the TIG welder and the associated skill to weld such wounds in thin gauge aluminum was another option. We drilled stopper holes at the end of each tear to reduce the potential for crack propagation. I will say that 90% of my hunting is fresh water river, and might plan one trip to the coast for sea ducks a year.
Or perhaps finding another friend, who is convinced that a torch and brazing rod in the hands of an artist will solve almost anything. We then checked the outside of the hull to make sure that the pressure on the adhesive in the holes was not pushing the outer patch out of fair. We used a coarse 3M® Roloc™ Bristle Disc to remove paint both inside and outside, giving ourselves plenty of bonding surface area around the hole (Photos 2 & 3). When satisfied with the patch placement and fairness, inside and out, we let the patch cure overnight.



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