I was reading on the Farrier site (and the site where the F-39 builder is using infusion) about the heat molding of foam over planking to do one off hulls. On average, how many layers of fiberglass with epoxy go into typical boats on the inside and outside of the foam? Sorry for all the questions, I just really want to lean more about composite boat building (for academic purposes only). Chris Ostlind Previous Member   Write to Henny (the guy building the vacuum infused F boat in Netherlands) and ask him a few questions. Chris Ostlind Previous Member   Farrier says it isn't necessary to bag or infuse his boats. Location: Port Gamble, Washington, USA Henny van Oortmarssen has been using infusion to build a Farrier F-39, and he has a great website that talks about the whole process. If you were to heat form the foam, remove it from the mold and vacuum bag it, would the vacuum deform the foam or does it just produce normal forces on the laminate?
If this does deform the shape and you choose to vacuum bag you would have to lift the foam out of the mold put plastic down, put the foam back, seal it then somehow brace it to the mold framing. Tor is using vacuum bagging along with the resin infusion process but note that I do not recommend infusion for hulls unless you really want cleanliness, or would just like to try the process.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Airex although expensive is still the choice of most of the CG and lifesaving and Pilot boats built in eueo land . Our more rapid fairing technique was to long board with machine floor sanding paper glued on. Dont panic , it looks like rocks glued on a hunk of cardboard 14 or 20 grit , but does a good rapid job. Advantage of ANY foam core is stiffer , usually lighter , quieter , and insulated , a great help to any cruiser. I built a 40 ft cold-moulded ply yacht for personal use quite some time ago and took a female mould of it. The 40 ft mould was gathering dust because of my adversity against foam cores and even high-tech ones such as Nomex.


I complete understand your position as I was mulling the very same question a few years back.
Regardless of your decision, I think there is one concept that you need to come to grips with. With all the mistakes I made, looking back, I would build a single skin, using a male mold. I thing that you are overestimating the amount of work necessary to build the mold for the hull relative to the rest of the work. I have spent the last 12 months agonising over a one off 28ft construction project, but I am avoiding strip plank and longboarding as much as possible - especially strip planking! I am going to attempt your original idea of a developable surface hull, using full length foam (Airex or similar) panels, initially glassed on one side, so they can be laid like plywood sheets (self fairing) in a female 'basket'. Then, once the insides are glassed, compartments fitted - the whole thing is rolled over for a final layer of glass. Hopefully, with the judicious use of peel play and a smooth flat melamime table to lay the panels on during layup, the amount of finishing work will be left behind. My NA has approved the concept, and it will be built ot full ISO standards, so I am optimistic at this point. 11:40 AM  What are the costs involved in building a fibreglass 17 foot center console flats? I'm starting a 1:100-scale model of SMS Lutzow, a German battlecruiser from WWI, and decided to build the hull with wood. For fellow beginners, thought I'd share my progress as I progress with my first Scratch Built Model Boat. I'm a newbie to model boat building and since I've spent my life around boats, I find that I'm lacking in understanding of some terms. He has also prepared a nice DVD of his process along with a suggested materials listing so that you, too, could infuse your own multihull (or most any other boat, for that matter) The price for the DVD is extremely nominal compared to the learning experience that it represents on Henny's dime. Vacuum bagging hulls alone is also nice, and will give a superior product, but it is also not necessary and will increase building time. Why would you bother making molds for one off pieces, I read earlier on that you are not skilled with wood so I would suggest using foam for such items and glassing the inside and or out as deemed necessary.


I hope the comment previously about 'you cant avoid longboarding' isnt totally true, and moulds are truly big timesinks.
Any suggestions on inexpensive "light tables" for transferring images from plans to template?2. Vacuum bagging is only recommended for flat panels like bulkheads, where it is very easy to do, but again, not necessary.
As far as cabinetry and such go what a lot of the one off custom builders are doing here is having the pieces made out of house by cabinet makers from the design of the architect.
Neal Petersen?s 11,2 mtr yacht is an example by finalizing the single-handed yacht race around the world.
It is 100% static models, so if you are looking for RC model boat construction, this isn't it.
Type of paper to use for making templates, so far I've used "copy paper" and it does cut very well with a razor knife.3.
These pieces are made a little bit long or tall then trimmed to fit to the boat sides or what have you, custom builders are now even getting the jigs for the house and the flybridge cut on CNC and now they have curves on both axis', there is a jig cutter here on the east coast that charges about 100 US per foot.
Other parts are GRP channels laid toe-down, lengthwise between- and connected to the U-ribs.
Cold-moulded ply however lost some of its glory to more modern building materials special in the speed, and stiffness departments. Such a core has anti-delaminating properties, something which other cores (such as foam or even Nomex? fail to have. Foam sheets will distort and come close to the compound curves that are usually found in sailboats.



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Comments to “Boat building queenscliff music”

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