This robot boat was originally built for a Thai art contest, for the 2006 Loy Krathong celebration.
The rule of thumb is to imitate the shapes of actual boats, as they have been well tested by real engineers. Examples of flat bottom boats might be Jon boats, small utility boats, and some high--speed runabouts.
The bottom of my hull was completely flat, as making other shaped hulls can cause complications. The Royal Thai Barges use human paddlers for actuation, but that wasnt possible for the robot so I need another method.
Just to emphasize once more, my paddle wheel design is not optimal and was based on artistic value over functionality.
Location: Iowa length of planning area and weight of boat are the factors that need to be addressed. Location: Oriental, NC As far as the hull is concerned, the speed limitation in this mode is water contact area and the friction it generates. Location: Finland Have you measured the performance with the bottom in perfect shape?
The performance of hulls like this has been optimized by the APBA guys racing runabouts for the last 40 years or so, and a flat planing surface is what you have and what you want. If you are running slower than the competition with similar hulls you need to make sure that you have the right prop, and the engine is turning the right rpm's. After that look at the trim angle of the motor and experiment with that over a range and see how the boat responds to the trim angle changes, again use your tach to see if you are getting more rpm's with each change.
Your hulls are pretty thin and with two aboard and the speeds you are running, it isn't too likely that you will flip the boat if you get some air under it. A step might help since it could insure that the hull remains at the optimum trim angle, at all times. Originally Posted by liki Have you measured the performance with the bottom in perfect shape? Originally Posted by tom28571 As far as the hull is concerned, the speed limitation in this mode is water contact area and the friction it generates.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Nowhere I have seen many hulls that have a V forward and are flat back at the transom. Location: Southern California A 'V' bow entry on a flatbottom hull eliminates one of the greatest advantage to having a flatbottom. If the bottom is tapered to a 'V', exaggerated transom lift will cause bow-steering in following seas and other undesireable handling characteristics. When angling over a swell, nothing grips the face better than a hard chine going all the way to the bow. Location: Eustis, FL Yes, this is a common configuration (V entry with flat aft sections) and has been referred to by several names over the years, like double wedge, modified V, etc. Location: florida Aquasport from 69-70 thru 79 in the 222 model had a flat bottom with a V entry and is now one of the most popular boats used by guides in the SW Florida region.
Location: Eustis, FL Bulut, what you have modeled is a weird variation of a box keel boat. The trick, you should be trying to employ is to get a fine entry and a sweet chine sweep, so the forward sections of the chine flats can help with lift. I'm not sure I understand you goals with this model, but you may want to consider more conventional approaches to these. Instead of using a V entry, i did the opposite--i made the widest point of the hull right smack dab where it is going to meet the chop AND i put the most sunstantial weight (54 gallons of fuel) from that point fwd.
So there are 3 forces that come into play with the bow, The weight of the fuel, the extra width at the impact point, and the lifting of the transom which presses the bow down.
Bulut, there is very little new under the sun when it comes to small boat hull configuration.
Originally Posted by Bulut is it posible to combine a "V" hull design with flat bottomed hull design? Do a search for Surf Dory's, a larger power version, with shallow draft, slight vee-bottom, double ender of the Calkins design. The Sportfisher Bartender's, will get to the fishing grounds first in choppy seas and swells when other hull designs have to slow down.
Location: Oriental, NC I'm not an advocate of flat hulls but Loveofsea has found a system that works for him. PAR, we need to be careful about dismissing the flat bottom in rough seas without looking at his whole proposition.
I use the more normal V forward with much flatter sections aft but also use an aft bottom design that lifts the stern and holds the bow down.
I'm not sure what Bulut intends for his hull but it at least partly follows the box, or canoe shape, keel with a flat upper hull that has been discuss much on forums lately. Location: fl 26' Double Step,Pad bottom Hull Mold (FUSION) Very Fast hull,This mold was used to pull plug for one of the most popular 24' Bay boats on the market ???? Originally Posted by johnboat75 Very Fast hull,This mold was used to pull plug for one of the most popular 24' Bay boats on the market ???? And yes I do have the Action molds again ,I have several I have to build and then the molds will be forsale !

With Spring in the air, the timing is right to review the basics of high performance boat operation to ensure you and your passengers have a safe and enjoyable Summer on the water. I like to refer to catamarans (or cats as they are often called) as tunnel boats on steroids.
Location: Jacksonville Beach No, but you could contact Jack owner of Full Throttle at (904) 448-4029.
What would the pros and cons be of a 26ft beam 80' long flat hull with a house structure 12' high. Fibreglassed sips(structural insulated panels) as hull structure and fibreglass panels for house structure. Location: Eustis, FL The concept out of hand isn't unreasonable, but you will have some (okay considerable) issues.
You cruising speed is well within reasonable limits and if the craft is shaped appropriately (reduced beam of course) could be quite economical to operate.
I have riverboat designs that are easy to build and offer houseboat accommodations with the ability to cruise (most large houseboats are designed to remain parked). Location: canada Do you have a website that would show some of your thoughts on riverboat designs? I understand the extreme rough ride of a flat bottom boat trying to pound along, but what happens in rough water with a slow moving boat such as this? I suspect by your questions, you are quite new to the prospect of an 80' houseboat or yacht. 80' will pass the million dollars with full houseboat accommodation what ever you start with.
And the need to have a crew, since houseboat are very difficult to steer in close quarter due the the high windage and shoal draft on the size you mention. Perhaps consider a smaller size since the houseboat by definition contain twice the amount of accommodation that a blue water vessel. Riverrat1969, you have obviously never been on a large flat bottomed boat, nor understand the dynamics of vessel of this size.
The requirement spelled out specifically shallow draft, and a flat bottom, shallow draft boat in the 70'-80' range will pound, because I've been aboard them in those circumstances numerous times.
Would you like to read the same remarks from several other coxswains that also operated LCM-8's in Vietnam? Par is very respected member and naval architect, his knowledge is fantastic and he share it with abundance. And read carefully his post, very carefully, and you will understand what he is talking about. Location: Eustis, FL I'm not even going to comment on someone that thinks a LCM-8 is a reasonable example of the flat bottom breed. I was in the same war as you Riverrat, though didn't have the joy of riding a LCM-8 in any of its versions. Again, an 80' houseboat, used within it's design envelope will not pound, if done properly.
The propeller are high performance custom made semi surfacing in bronze and stainless steel. With all these advantages, each Cutwater model offers the range to expand everyoneis cruise horizons while providing exceptional comfort underway.
Additionally, this keel protects the propeller and running gear against damage from submerged hazards.
Along either side of the keel where it meets the bottom is a rounded shoulder where the machinery compartment has been expanded to allow positioning the engine low in the hull.
Since we're talking about a high performance hull, this hull form will be on plane 95% of the time and is quite efficient at such, until the chop picks up enough, to get stuffed under the V sections and pound on the flattening midship sections. CANADA Flat bottom questions Is a Flat Iron skiff better in rough conditions because it is more prone to keeping its bow in contact with the water, or is a flat bottom with some rocker forward (pacific city dory) the better performer?
Typically the box portion (the V part hanging down) ends in a point, rather then being cut flush with the transom as you have.
This will substantially increase the amount of displacement and drag your drive assembly will have to overcome. The extreme amount of deadrise in the box will not offer much lift, so you'll be relying on the flats.
Similar to steps, the pad reduces the wetted surface area the hull runs on, increasing top speed with minimal affect on the ride quality. The sharp, 90-degree transfer where the tunnel sides meet the bottom of the sponsons helps the boat settle in the water as it enters a turn. The first one is SIP's are static load only, so you'd have to develop scantlings to address this issue. The precise beam would need to be worked out, as would all the other possible variables on the yacht, but yes, you could expect exceptional stability. Sit down with a pro and work up a design brief, establishing the goals you'd like this craft to achieve and a reasonable budget. I don't see how to post images here, but if you'll E-mail me (put LCM-8 on subject line), I'll send a photo of one of these boats being hoisted out for new screws, so you can see the bottom profile. It is not just a big flat hull with a structure on top, it is not a house, it is a boat with some very particulars engineering problems due to the shape. Whether you are a designer or not, my comment comes from firsthand experience in the military.

I suggest you comment about what you really know, and not comment based on what you think you know.
This is a pig of a boat, it's over driven, over weight (except the aluminum version, which is just slightly over weight) and generally only good for one thing, which incidentally happened to meet it's bid criteria. I do have a 100 ton masters ticket though and considerable experience in craft of every shape and size, including an unlimited sail endorsement and considerable time in flat bottom boats. This hull form is usually limited to protected waters craft, though the old, down east lobster boat hull styles, could be considered a double wedge hull and were often taken well past the protection of sheltered water. Also, is the pointy bow style of flat bottom skiff more succeptable to chine trip than its jon boat cousins?
There are a few plane mode box keel designs, but most are limited in top speed before they begin to have bad manners. This can be accommodated by using a fine, sharp entry wedge and moving considerable displacement aft, but it will still pound, just not as quick. This provides a fine entry, self leveling properties (typical of V's) can knock down chop and flat plane areas aft. The wide chine flats will probably still receive some pounding in a healthy chop, but the box will help knock some of it down.
Shaping the chines to do this isn't a walk in the park for the most skilled among us, let alone the novice. The flat areas aft, provide the plane surface, the forward V sections lift, fine entry and stabilization. I know that in worst case scenareo, that hull charastic (water rushing to the transom while at rest ) is a major cause for small boat capsizing.
It is made of SST and has a cutout for the engine, it projects out 11" from the transom and the corners are hooked down for lift. We encourage new and current owners to review the book and then get some in-boat driving lessons from your local high performance dealer. Mercury Racing offers a full-array of outboard and sterndrive propulsion options for the vee-bottom boater.
I think you'll want to revise your beam a tad, if only for reasonable maneuvering and dockage limitations, let alone efficient, cost effective cruising.
If you do get into conditions where the wave train can challenge the boat, you've got bigger problems then pounding to look forward to. I cannot design a LCM-8, but I certainly do know how to operate them, and know from firsthand experience how they perform in shallow water, surf, heavy chop, and on the beach.
I've actually been on them and they truly suck at everything, unless you plan to be of dropping 50 tons of whatever on a beach.
I'm sorry your experience with this hull form has caused you some discomfort, but clearly, your exposure to LCM-8's wasn't helpful. There is a point where your wishes will NOT overcome the physics involved and you will have to settle for what physics allows.
Well forward, the raked stem curves downward near the waterline to a slender, near-vertical forefoot that cuts oncoming waves to ensure a smooth ride. They were often used in displacement mode in green water and only kept at pace with the sea, which is always a wise course if you have to make a living doing such daily.
These shapes are generally used in protected waters, as they haven't enough deadrise aft to maintain comfort, at plane speeds in rough conditions. The aft sections could be made flatter, like a skiff, but she'd then be less efficent at displacement speeds. The lifting strake gives additional lift to the transom and is 'tuned' to augments the lifting capacity of the trim of the lower unit.
Those who do not have a qualified driving instructor in their area may want to consider Tres Martin’s Performance Boat School.
The most recent change in this design over the past decade has been the incorporation of strategically placed notches or steps in the hull. Air entering the tunnel generates lift as speed increases.The wetted surfaces and hull drag are reduced, for enhanced speed and ride quality. The high superstructures are difficult to built properly to be part structuraly of the whole vessel. Hell, the current cruise ships working the waters in the USA are flat bottomed hull forms, as is every single container ship too. I'm also sorry you've apparently mis-understood my previous posts or at least take away a negative response from them, maybe my weird sense of humor. This nuance also extends the waterline to improve fuel efficiency, and allows fuller sections throughout the forward hull sections for greater useable interior space.
I use a 2,000gph pump in the belly to protect the nights at anchor, and i use a self-priming water puppy mounted on the transom to pull the water out when i am taking shots of water while under way--works great!
In general, they produce a smoother and faster ride over a vee-bottom in calm to mild chop.
Our OptiMax 300XS is popular choice for those who choose outboard power for entry into the cat experience.

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