Location: Cape Coral Fl Seems odd that I was the only one replying to your threads. Location: Florida I am not sure if the current hull is factory gelcoat or if it has been painted in the past.
Location: Eustis, FL Martell, I'm as surprised as Bruce about the only response thing. I agree with Bruce in that grinding back to the mat (likely chopped) will just make a lot more work for you. Check the transom for softness (it likely will be) by lifting the engine up until it hits it's stop then apply more upward pressure with an eye (or two) on the through bolt attachments in the transom. There are many other threads on this site addressing the same issues you are facing with this old bow rider. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Moctezuma, Sonora, Mexico 72 Glastron restoration i've recently aquired a 72 16' 52 hp glastron runabout in Douglas Arizona, a think a got a good deal for it as i paid 600 dollars, the floor was rotten and it need it be removed, i did it, and now i found that the transom has de lower par rot damage as it seams to be in the bottom half of it and the upper seams to be dry and strong (i try punturing in several partas to see if it was soft or loose ) i was thinking in just replacing the botom part with new plywood, and reinforsing the upper half with fiberglassing, and with an added structure to place part of the weight of the motor in the new floor stringers, nor the fiberglass or the gelcoat of the transom are damage in any way, i'm puting some of the pictures of the boat and the damage transom to be seen, any sugesting would be apreciated since neer by where i am there is no one who does this jobs. If you use the search function for the term transom repair, you'll find that this subject has come up several times before. Location: Washington I've seen this on other boats and it is actually better and easier to replace the whole piece of wood rather than to attempt to replace only part of it. Location: Moctezuma, Sonora, Mexico Tnks for all the help and comments First i want to tnk all of you, for the coments, now, Charmc, i talked to a person who fixes boats in Guaymas Sonora (at San Carlos in the marina), told me that it was posible to fix just part of the transome, but that in a few years 2 or so i would have to do it all again, and that probably it coud afect even the new stringer i put in, since the transon sits in part on them for streght, so i guess i will change the compleate trnasom ply, as Ike, and Charmc say at the end is just going to be easier, cheaper and it probably will outlast the time i keep the boat, i?ve seen the page USCgret is posting, and i?ll be doing something like that, as for the material seacast, the guy told me that is just some kind of a filler, that is good, but that he normally uses glue with wood saw dust, and as a filler it works good, and also told me to use it in the parts where the stringer don't touch well the hull as it will help prevent water or moisture accumulation there, under the fiberglassing weld, and i?m thinking in placing a construction plastic in between the floor panels and the carpet and over the transom taking it over the walls of the boats some 5 to 10 in, to better prevent water from filtering down to the new wood under the floor and transom, i didn?t what to remove the motor nor the top of the boat, but i see now that it will be the best way to go as it wont take much more extrawork, and it will be more safe and solid the reparation, as i dont what to end up swimming back to shore or loosing the motor, just for a quik fix.
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Where boats can be tipped, flipped or rolled over to have the bottom repaired or refinished without endangering the technicians. Providing quality service for over 22 years, Gibbons Fiberglass and Aluminum Boat Repair shop features a team of professionals with vast knowledge and skill in repairing boats - both large and small, plus personal watercraft.


We use secondary bonding, peeling and fairing techniques to make needed repairs, these skills and tools seperate Gibbons Fiberglass from auto body repair shops. Hello again,After a 2 month long spell of bad weather and with the Xmas and new year celebrations out of the way, I have started work on my lovely boat once again. If you wish to add more photos (or videos) to your post or if you have any problems loading photos use the link below (there is no need to resize or adjust your photos).
So, before selecting your photo please use the 'Message Box' to indicate to which post the photos belong. Featured Boat Restoration StoriesWe love what we do!Digging In!"I love seeing the end result of each project as I finish it.
Not sure about the Topcoat paint your talking about but hell I do not use any marine paint ( finish) I use automotive paint ( PPG ) sticks well to epoxy primers and holds up very well, and best of all it's less expensive. If you install the transom drain plug (easiest and cheapest) then always store the boat with the bow high so water can drain aft and out the drain. Do a few searches and you'll find many offerings, that may be of service to you, particularly transom repairs. The company is led by Bob Gibbons, owner, with over 40 years of experience in the boat repair industry. I will surely be coming back to your site again and again for info and ideas regarding every step of my restoration.
Together we are sure to find the perfect color scheme.Fully CustomizedCustom Boat UpholsteryCustom designed boat upholstery to satisfy all your deepest desires. If painting is what you want to do there are primers (epoxy high build) that will seal the hull when applied.
That is the very faded factory color (one of them) though it's possible to have been painted too.
If you want to barrier coat, that's fine, but if it's not necessary (blisters, lots of repairs, etc.) then don't bother with the effort and expense.


I intend to stick to traditional methods as much as possible, without being stupid of course. Most paints will stick to an epoxy barrier coat without the need for primer, though you should check with the epoxy manufacture for paint compatibility recommendations.
She has been out of the water for 4 yrs now, but is still in great condition, a tribute to the skill of those who made her. I have stripped all of the deck hardware, rubrail, gauges, interior, windshield, and I'm ready to tackle the floor. I am in the process of scraping all paint of in order to make sure everything is intact underneath. I have chiseled out the really bad stuff and treated the area with boracoll to stop further rotting. You are right about conditions here being ideal.Currently we are at the beginning of what looks to be a mellow winter. Simply bring your boat by our facility and we can talk about the details.Receive your quote TODAY!
It looks like the rot extends slightly under the deck too, and the tops of the ribs are rotten too. I have been told to cut out the plank slightly oversize and scarf in a new one (longitudinal scarf).



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