Inspired by another thread here, I was wondering what we can (or already have) design for a quality home-built boat trailer?
I've never read the Glen-L book on building wood-frame trailers, and am not too sure how the DMV would like that, but am willing to consider all or partial wood frame elements. Not willing to consider torsion axles, or suspension systems rated for 1000+lbs, both of which seem to be the only lightweight ones readily available from Northern Tool and other major retailers. I understand that commercial trailers exist with all or most of these elements, but prices are usually well over $1200 for the Trailex aluminum models with spare tire, winch stand and winch. If the main spar were made of wood, hollow, thru bolted and glued and with a solid telescoping inner spar it would facilitate launching at shallow launches. It wouldn't be remotely strong enough to handle the weight and forces of trailering unless it was massively thick! As for something like the Yakima trailer, that would be great if we could source the parts separately. My Aeroflow trailer has torsion suspension, and is scary to tow empty as it will do repeated 3' vertical hops on bad freeway sections. Remember, once you get the trailer license and title you can modify or upgrade it virtually anyway you want with no hassle from the authorities. Save them to your computer if you want copies, as things tend to come and go when I need space on the website.
We see a couple of those gorgeous light aluminum trailers with motorcycle wheels every year at the big canoe shows, but a couple grand for a little trailer is far more than I'd ever spend on one.
I've converted two of these for small boat trailers, using a long steel tube for an extended tongue and wooden homemade bunks. He mentioned a swinging or removable tongue, which some prefer because it shortens the whole package, making it easier to store. I used a Harbor Freight trailer for several years, but even though I always rinsed it after each launch into salt water, it eventually rusted into uselessness. Location: spain A practicle problem would be how do you come ashore with your amphibian ? Originally Posted by michael pierzga A practicle problem would be how do you come ashore with your amphibian ? Honda 110 is still made in Oz and NZ according to wiki, and its wet weight is just over 200lbs, which includes lots of 1960 era steel body work, and generally burly construction. I do remember seeing a fat man(300+) on a Trail 90 chugging up a steep hill in San Fran, so I figure it is doable once down-geared. Cooling is another problem if using an existing air-cooled motor(for cost and simplicity) on a heavier, slower, more shrouded(figure the motor will be 'sunk' into the hull even if exposed to air) application.
So I figure if you don't have a berth along that wall you mentioned in a prior thread, or if they want a king's ransom, you anchor out, then you launch your Hybrid Motor-Recumbent-Kayak and motor over to the ramp at about 8 knots and ride up the ramp.
Location: Arlington, WA-USA I thought of something similar but using a mountain bike for muscle power. Location: USA I like Petros' idea, except I would add the ability to adjust the beam on the cat hulls so you can adjust for stability vs. You could put a kayak on a go-kart, but you'll never use it on any street in the states or europe, you'd have a better chance with floats on an electric wheel chair. As mentioned above adding a salt water environment in the equation is a real problem, I don't want my Transalp rusting away. A 650 dirt bike will climb out of most anything, but not bolders along a rocky shore or quicksand mud or deep sand, just can't put off in such areas. Having skids instead of wheels will effect the approach and departure angle of your machine going over rough terrain or cresting over dips in a roadway, like approaching some RR crossings, depends on how long your outriggers are. Keeping within a realistic budget, the least expensive way to go is a trailer that can be pulled by your land vehicle that is also the frame for inflatable pontoons or boat that your land vehicle can be carried on.
If I had the cat pictured above and that Big Rukus, I'd bag it and be on my way, set it off on the dock and wheel it away.
Location: maine If the dinghy had an electric motor and the bike had one too, a single battery and controller could be shared to save weight.
Originally Posted by Dave Gudeman How about just using the scooter engine to power a PWC, but leave the PWC hull at the shore and drive the scooter away?
The hull could be designed so that you can lock the scooter in it in an upright stance for riding. With this, the scooter doesn't have to carry the hull and other boat apparatus around with it so it could be made lighter and more efficient. Plimsol » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Can i use a motorcycle engine? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.


The Trailer Shop - Boat & Box Trailers, All Sales is great image for your collection and this design is free to use with high definitions resolution. Copyright © 2014 Tattoo Design Bild, All trademarks are the property of the respective trademark owners. A self built trailer can often be easily be accomplished with the help with a set of illustrated boat trailer plans, the ideal materials, and the ability to weld steel..
You then slide the axle assembly forward or aft till it is the proper weight for the boat you are carrying. Build your own boat: W elcome to our on-line catalog of camper and travel trailer plans and patterns. After some months scouring the options of boats, little ships, etc, to build I started sketching up a 23' LOA full displacement tug type yacht.
First, my construction method is marine ply, preferably a single hard chine using stitch and glue (I know Devlin, who's $800k tug yacht was one of the dream boats I will never be able to afford, is a champion of this method) construction. My first major question is this: I have designed it with an engine room below the pilot house for a diesel inboard; however, for a 23' LOA, 8' beam would a outboard in an engine well be suitable if the HP was high and the RPM speed lower than a speed boat? I have attached my prelim sketch without any of the CAD modifications, only a proposed waterline. 3) I have not yet done the calcs for sail area, and while I am well aware this is not the optimum hull type for a sailing craft several Tug style yachts employ sails somewhat effectively. Location: El Paso I should also note that the illustration I uploaded was not the initial sketch as I thought it was, but the one with the blocks showing the two possible engine locations in gray.
Location: NW Washington State USA We've seen it in Bar Harbor in Ketchikan Alaska (45 mi from us) when we go there (several times a year).
Location: El Paso I have finally gotten to where I can somewhat competently use Delft and Free!Ship. Location: Milwaukee, WI You may need to post the new specifications to get answers that make sense. A boat of this type and speed regime will usually operate at 2 to 3 HP per ton (2240) of actual weight.
In the total cost of the project , I would spend big on a hull, and marinize a small diesel, to save bucks. Location: Milwaukee, WI For $1500 there are a lot of use marine engines in the 10Hp range.
Location: Salem, OR Flat Bottom Design for Landing Craft Hello, I am new to this forum basically because I am going to build a boat and I would like all of input that I can get. The cove that my cabin is in has a tidal range of 16' to -4' which means that at least 4 hours of the day my cove is dry. I am building a 7'wide x 18' long landing craft out of marine plywood and I am trying to decide on the hull.
I know that a small Vee will ride better in the sometimes 2' - 3' chop that I get between Ketchikan and my cabin but I worry about the boat resting on the ground all of that time and the stress on the Vee. When you choose a design, be sure to contact the designer and tell him what the weight of your ATV is.
If you need more boat than barge to cover open water, then the garvey type hull is superior ..
Location: Massachusetts I would look at other boats in yr area serving similar purpose snd discuss with their owners. I am hoping to go at least 15 mph loaded through 1 - 2' with a 2,000 lb load so I will be using a 70 or 90 HP outboard.
I am probably going to have to eliminate the V hull because of the constant grounding issue which unfortunatelly is going to mean more pounding on the bow. Does anybody think that runners on the botom would help it not to slide in turns and waves? Location: spain A 90hp outboard plus rigging weighs 400lbs, plus a Heavy ATV , gear and passengers makes an 18footer look a bit small . There are two layers to the bottom with 3 - 2x4x16 boards running the length for structural and load support. Location: Southeast Alaska I think you better make it look a little more like this one if you want to put a load in it and cruise around here.
Location: Thailand This is a shape for the bottom you could use that has a slight rise in front and back bottom of hull that rocks it up when propulsion is applied and runs level with the water surface while planning.
I know you want to make from wood and a pity you did not make from aluminum ?less maintenance? then you could also plug the 1.5 ton torsion suspension that float off and on so when you are at the other side you can use your ATV to tow barge inland.
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It's a superb trailer and nothing using leaf springs will ever even be remotely close when it comes to a smooth, quiet ride.


Mine is very hefty, but a guy who built a Slider sister ship found a johnboat trailer that was narrow enough that the hulls sit outside the wheels, so that he can use a much shallower ramp than I can. If you stay under say, 49 cc as the drive engine to stay under the issues above, you absolutley will not have enough power to climb any significant grade pulling two people and the contraption with a banana from the store. IMO, due to the restrictions of 1 and 2 above, the way of least resistance is to keep the floation device as a home made water craft that is easily described and conforms to reality along with a motorized vehicle that will pass as a road worthy vehicle. I thought using a water proof bag system that would cover the bike might work, but I don't know about condensation issues but it would keep salt out.
Without an engine, the PWC hull would not be very attractive to steal, especially if it only worked with a particular model of scooter.
The front wheel is clamped to the PWC steering mechanism so when you turn the handlebars, it steers the craft. The Trailer Shop - Boat & Box Trailers, All Sales is part of the popular collection wallpapers. I am going to insert a mast at the front of the cockpit that doubles as a support column for the cockpit roof and another at the rear of the salon; the intent will be a type of yawl rig.
This will be used by my brother and I and need only two berths, which I am trying on my interior layout to put in the salon and along the port side of the cockpit with a double as a nav desk in daytime.
I will be living there permenantly in a couple of years and I will always be transporting a large amount of items such as building materials and ATV's. A V-section hull must be expressly designed to bear weight on its keel when it takes the ground. With the loads, speeds, and water temprature you are talking about a home designed boat is a recipe for disaster.
It would be nice to have a very lightweight trailer for a very lightweight (say 350 pound) boat, but stock hardware tends to be heavy.
What insurance company will insure a home built vehicle that appears to be a kayak with wheels?
When you get ashore, if you don't want to lock your rig to a tree, pack it up and pull the trailer with you.
The rear wheel is clamped to a drum so that when the engine turns the rear wheel, it turns the drum and the turning drum powers a propeller or pump to drive the craft. Here you can find some new design about The Trailer Shop - Boat & Box Trailers, All Sales for your current screen resolution.
At any rate I intend to curve them slightly more although I am looking for as much volume as I can get without going over an 8' beam. I figure with a forward cargo hold I can use the craft to deliver almost 100 cubic feet of medical supplies, freshwater, or something of a humanitarian nature to justify my longed for open water cruise. The drafting of the fantail was the main purpose of the exercise though, as I'm not too sure the base design is worth salvaging. Simply putting V in a barge hull without consideration for the change in weight distribution is a recipe for disaster.
And frankly if you are debating about adding a V or not to an existing design, you don't have a design you have a cocktail napkin sketch.
Maybe what we're really searching for is very economical, lightweight but durable rolling parts. A motorcycle would work well for this arrangement and it could all be registered and insured for each element, for what they are. You can download this as nice desktop wallpaper by right click and save as into your computer. My goal is to get the basics of what I want on paper, then when I get those basics done to take it to a naval architect. I am also designing an insert for the hold to carry fish, with the appropriate plumbing, to perhaps help pay for one of these excursions on the return trip.
Sails will add expense, weight and lots of head wind windege not to mention vertical clearance problems.
The Yakima Rack and Roll weighs 150 pounds and only carries 250 pounds and is ridiculously high in price..
Don't miss to check all from this kind of lovely popular desktop background by viewing the similar high definition wallpapers design below. Back when I used to sell them, the capacity on most of the Holsclaws in that size range was 500-600 lbs.



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