Sailfish powercats were top-five aluminium fishing boats at Australia’s Greatest Boats three years running.
We won’t be going into issues like trailer-shaft condition, wheel hub problems, or the dismantling of various trailer brake-setups. To replace the wheel bearings on a boat trailer, start by safely setting your jack under the side of the trailer. A Bearing Buddy is a cylindrical housing with an internal spring-loaded washer that pressurises the grease from the outside, ensuring that water is less likely to enter the bearing area. Now all you need to do is put the new metal ring and rubber seal on the inside, then put the wheel back on the trailer.
The item you are attemping to add to compare is a different subtype to the items(s) in your list. All we want to do is access and replace the bearings on a standard single-axle boat trailer. The first is to use a standard wheel hub metal cover (cheap and a little nasty); the second is to use a Bearing Buddy or similar system.


Ask yourself: how many boat trailers have you seen stranded on the side of the road with a buggered bearing? All you do is straighten the split-pin and remove both the pin and the nut to remove the tyre and hub. Be careful if you plan to keep them as spares because you never know what can happen when metal mixes with saltwater. It’s a lot easier than you’d think, so get a good dollop of grease in your hands and slap or force it through the gap between the inside and outside of the bearing.
Tighten up the nut so everything is pushed in and seated nicely, then back the nut off a touch. The best way to get the old grease off without you wearing it is to use cheap plastic gloves. The new bearings must sit inside the collar, after the collar is in position (cone facing out). You can also see here that the grease is a light grey colour, a good indication that water is getting in.


You could also use your screwdriver but take extra care not to damage the inside of the wheel hub. Once the old grease is out and the hub clean, check for further wear or heat damage inside.
Hammer the new collar in evenly using your copper dolly, and check that you’ve tapped the collar in all the way. The bearings are not as bad as first thought, but for around $30 to $40 a wheel it’ll pay to replace them.
If you’re confident that the original bearings can be reinstalled, remove all the old grease and check for wear and tear.



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