Figured that I would post this up for guys that might be thinking about this or needing to do this.
Using pressure treated wood even coated in resin is an iffy proposition in an aluminum hulled boat. Maybe consider painting the aluminum in contact with the PT transom wood with rhino-liner just in case? Our experience has been that the wood always seems to rot out before any visual sign of deterioration of the aluminum, even the treated wood however the newer treated wood is not the same treatment as a few years ago but now I am curious so I will investigate this further. I have seen the copper treated wood eat up flashing on my jobsites in under 18 months, don't use it on your boat. The distance between the 2 red dotted lines is called the transom height and can be measured ONLY in inches.
IMPORTANT: Rather than you measure the above we have devised a simpler more accurate way of obtaining the leg size to suit our covers. OK measure the motor from the very top dead centre (middle of outboard) right down to the skeg or lowest point.
For those that are reasonable familiar with outboard engines some manufactures place the leg size on or in the MODEL number on the ID plate. Some of the codes you are looking for will be similar to the ones below, HOWEVER some models vary and in some cases the model codes change yearly. We do all phases of fiberglass repair, from minor boat repairs to major accident and collision repairs.
No matter how big or small your fiberglass damage is, Van Wagoner Boats can and would be happy to repair or restore it.
We use only high-quality materials including kevlar, carbon fiber, and composite core materials. Bring your boat or custom part idea in today for a free on-site fiberglass repair estimate! Example 1: Bow Rider - Length = 19' 6" Transom width = 84" remote steering and 20" transom height. When blithe to argument I come, Though armed with facts and merry; May Providence protect me from, The Fool as adversary. Absolutely right - I believe that all owners of closed hulls are cutting holes in them to make them safer as we speak. In my sig you see the Honda on a bracket but the bracket is an extension of the hull with buoyancy so not so bad but the engine gets in the way when fishing IMO. Here's another Euro design which clearly had weight savings in mind (on a welded aluminum boat), but did not use the bulge in the center.
For a little more detail, beyond what I pointed out already regarding the lack of sides or bumps out back (like a big baitwell on the outside of the cockpit in that example shown??? The bottom is flush with the hull bottom, extending the running surface about 8" for faster planing acquisition and better planing retention at low speeds. The thickness is substantial and enclosed, and centered at the waterline, adding considerable buoyancy to the tail. Extra support for vertical loads is provided with robust welded rods that are small, lightweight, and double as handholds when boarding via a swimladder. I don't know exactly when Quintrex introduced this design, I know they've been refining this for some time. I like that Quintrex design , in its own right its got alot of function in the transom design.
Barry, chill for a bit, but come back to the Sandbox with your toys soon, you've have been an enthusiastic and informative poster and you have already been bitten by the THT bug. Of the three, the bracketed boat has the advantage of being able to run the engine at a higher mount, thereby having a lower drag factor when on plane and underway.

Without ever having seen one in person, I would think that the Quintrex would have the least amount of interior room.
The notched transom would probably have a little more interior deck space than the Quintrex and would perform pretty much the same while at rest and underway.
I didn't include a pic of an integral bracketed hull cause I consider it the same as an aftermarket bracketed boat.
In my opinion, Fletch is correct in his assessment of this topic with his 3 hull drawing on page 4 depicting the comparison well. On the interior the transom has been refabricated and reinforced with an aluminum support brace.
The remaining holes are for the engine mounts and bolts that fasten the marine plywood to the aluminum transom fastened in the interior. Although I am keenly interested in suggestions on what materials or process can be used to make this right. Without knowing the extend, and cause of the holes, simply filling in with weld shall just delay the inevitable. Remove the temporary fasteners and blocks, then drill out each hole with a slightly bigger bit, all the way through the skin and new core.
I am really a novice DIY person without many of the skills required to repair the transom including welding. I should also mention the interior portion of the transom has been fabricated with an aluminum support brace welded to the aluminum runners along the floor length of the boat and vertically up the interior transom skin. Agreed the best option would be to replace the exterior transom skin with a new piece of aluminum.
That being said I 'think' my best option is to repair the holes from the outside transom skin.
Location: Eustis, FL A single thin skin of aluminum isn't going to support your engine, even with braces.
Location: Eustis, FL Wow, some really serious Mickey Mouse work going on there. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. You can see here the rear skin of the boat has been mechanically removed to gain access to the transom.
You're probably better off using Marine plywood with a sealer and paint than with the newer treated lumber. This is usually located on either the left or right hand sides just where the mounting bracket from the motor to the boat are or just under the power head (don't take the cowling off) where the trunk of the leg starts at the top. You would have paid extra for these models & they don't normally have them on motors much over 60hp. Whether your idea calls for a unique shape or just a custom fiberglass part, we can build it to fit perfectly in your boat—no matter how large or small. Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world. For me in my area with thousands of lobster pots which acts like minefields,euro or brackets or what ever extends the motor from the transom is dangerous! Not a day goes by without hearing on the news of some poor sap who, lacking a safe notched transom, was killed while trying to free a lobster pot from their 3 feet of useless length.
Protects the engine, good weight distribution, gets the engine out of the way during the fight, easy to service the engine when in the water, clean looking transom, etc. I am trying to let this thread die - your post was different, I can see that you are genuinely thinking about this, and had a sincere interest, but if you have any interest at all in discussing it further, I'll ask you to do that in a PM, so this can just go away. EVERY design has its upsides and its downsides, it really depends upon the use of the boat, the owner and the type of conditions the owner runs in .

And the boat will perform like a boat that is 30 inches longer (typical bracket set****** when underway. However, it would have all the comforts of a full transom (no wet feet) without having to pay the weight penalty that a bracketed boat has to bear. The bracket is just made out of fiberglass and is molded onto the transom instead of bolted on.
But looking at your transom you have so many, the better option is to replace the transom, that way you'll know what the thickness is and it shall last longer than any temp repair which you're attempting now.
You'll still have a transom full of holes, but they'll be sealed reasonably well, you can do it in your driveway and if you don't drop a 150 HP engine on it, you'll likely be fine for a decade with minimum care and a few decades with reasonable care.
If you think this transom is just in need of some holes being patched, I've got nothing more I can tell you. If you are ordering we have provision on the order form for you to take a guess but as soon as you enter measurements we will assume you don't know the actual size and use the measurements provided. They are used for commercial outboard or Yachts or where the motor is pushing a lot of weight. Imagine having your prop fouled in a lobster bouy line then having to lift the outboard and try to free it! The USCG and the ABYC are at this very minute preparing to jointly issue a statement calling for the immediate recall of all boats without a large hole in the transom, and to have them suitably modified to begin to put a stop to this senseless carnage.
In the meantime I'll print your response for one of my co-workers whos dad met that sad fate trying to free the prop leaning over a euro transom two years ago! Quintrex is nice, just not for everybody, the main thing Barry, is that YOU like and enjoy it!!! Considering all the holes and the cutout, a lot of work, but something that can be done in your driveway.
Let this dry, until just barely tacky, then fill each hole with more of the thickened mixture. I will say that 90% of my hunting is fresh water river, and might plan one trip to the coast for sea ducks a year. Maybe the both of you can get together and go to your legislators to get something done about it! Now, the uppermost part of the motor is the portion that projects the furthest when it is tilted - so that tells us that the real spatial constraint in fitting comes at the top of the transom wall. And this setup yields the most interior deck space and also gives the comfort of a full transom, especially in a rough sea with the stern in. Euro-transoms have alot of safety and function in them, but unfortunately the trade off, is space. That is on the transom to disc, from the outside and from the disc to the transom on the inside. On the inside use your gloved finger, around the edges of the plywood and make a small fillet of the epoxy ooze out. Brackets, such as Armstrong, solve both problems in a sense, but the trade off there is static trim . The bracketed boat will definitely squat lower in the stern which can lead to deck drainage problems. When you drill new holes for the engine mounts, bond them just like you did the other ones, making them at least 30% larger in diameter then the actual bolt shank clearance hole needs to be.

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Comments to “Boat transom repair kit”

  1. sevimli_oglan  writes:
    The width of the slats when you can manage.
  2. AnTiS  writes:
    Concept was to create a easy with.