Well, I obviously missed the Hammapoluza trip in order to get some things done, and after checking out the posts from the get together, I really hope this is going to be worth missing that! After glassing in the floor, I had to do something about the seams, as they would allow the floor to flex -- a definite no-no if I want to keep carpet in there for any length of time. Another trip to AutoZone and I picked up the fiberglass version of Bondo body filler -- the same stuff I had to use on the nose. Joist mounts worked to stabilize the top portion of the platform, which was cut for two pieces of wood. For the dashboard, I traced the originals onto a solid piece of pine, cut, and rough sanded with 80-grit sand paper, followed by glass resin to finish them. By the time you guys tied into those giant slobs of stripers at Hammy, I was making my first cuts on the carpet. Unfortunately, I ran out of daylight to snug and glue in the carpet, so this is as far as I got this past weekend. Remember, all this was and still can be done avoiding marinas all together, as all of the materials used were from hardware stores, Wal-Mart and auto care stores, helping to keep the cost down. Location: British Colombia Canada wooden decks Thought I would post an example of replacing a teak deck with a mahogany deck.
Location: Eustis, FL What was that teak veneer layed in on the original deck?


When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: Middle-Of-Nowhere, OH 88 Ozark Deck Boat Rebuild Recently acquired this 88 Ozark DB-20 (much the same as phil32 has in his thread. My issues are about the same, but I'm starting from manufacturer's scratch instead of a rebuild of someone else's work.
Looks like every cross member is like this (which is why I'm replacing them), but don't know why. Location: The Netherlands For bonding (ply)wood to polyester, grind down the gelcoat of the polyester, and glue with epoxy glue.
Before you glue the wood to the polyester, coat it several times with epoxy resin, then paint with 2K PU paint. Tremblay 228 » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post fiberglass boat building? In my floor plan, I went with a rear bench, front casting deck layout, just because I like an open boat. The rear bench will actually be nothing more than a platform for mounting seats, but gives the hull even more rigidity. Hopefully, my next article will be my last and I'll be sending photos of the finished product.


It appears the caulk lines held up fairly well, but the goo that held the teak, not so much (typical). I've already picked up on some very good ideas from reading his thread, and plan on implementing them! This frees up a lot of space, but I am a little concerned about the weight distribution - the console will be moved 2 feet back, and 2 feet towards the center. A lot of thought (and measurement, did I mention beer?) went into building the front deck in order to get rigidity and still have some storage.
Hint, invest in stocks from the Bondo company before you start a project like this -- a little return on investment! The only reason I went with a front opening door as opposed to a top side door was just for added strength. Sorry Zach, looks like you'll have to win another two tourneys before you can make a shot at a trifecta. They are center cut with a 2-½ inch hole in the middle so the pedestal mount would allow enough room for the seat mount to fit in without going through the bottom of the boat (Jim always comes up with the cool sh*t!).



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