Turning ability is a function of rudder (if you have one), hull rocker, weight distribution and shape of chine in a canoe. My observation of inexperienced canoeists is that tracking ability is more important than turning ability. Location: Netherlands John Winters has developed a fairly simple method that will give a good indication of the tracking capability. Location: Texas Alright Rick, I found the KM value you spoke of after migrating over to Freeship.
Originally Posted by Martijn_vE John Winters has developed a fairly simple method that will give a good indication of the tracking capability. Originally Posted by coreym Alright Rick, I found the KM value you spoke of after migrating over to Freeship.
If you like I can tell you what sort of performance you can get from the boat if you post the model.
Location: Texas Feel free to grace me with whatever knowledge you may have as I've only been using this software for about a day now.
If you're designing a racing canoe there's a great deal more to it than just the resistance. I checked the performance of your hull and compared it with a Godzilla hull having a length and stability constraint optimised for 6kts.
There could be a faster boat for straight line speed, but it will give away stability and turning to get the speed. This is a multichine design from which you can extrapolate curves to produce a smooth hulled variant.
I tend to like asymmetrical hulls in canoes with enhanced rocker at both ends for turning response, but more so up front. I'll get a chance to look at your attachment later this evening as I'm in the middle of banging-out a plan set right now and have to stick with it. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. By using subdivision surfaces you gain more flexibility and the advantages can only truly be appreciated once you start to use it. Why pay 00's of dollars per computer for a costly programme when 3D Boat Design can do it all for you for one tenth of the price? Remember this is a fully licensed and legal copy of 3DBoatDesign to be used at home or work. We are so confident that you will love this CAD Software Package that we offer a 100% No Hassle 60 day money back guarantee.
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I still remember reading Kulczicki's book over and over and not realizing I didn't understand the building process until it came time to glue everything up. I made two compounded plywood designs using New Wave Systems' ProSurf3 for developing the panels. Compounded-plywood boatbuilding is, for the most part, limited to long, narrow hulls such as kayaks, multihull sailboats, rowing shells, and a few canoes. Keep in mind that this canoe is not allowed to have a rudder and must be capable of competing in races such as 2 and 4 person long distance (there back there back tight 180 degree turns), 2 and 4 person slalom (tight >90 degree turns), and sprint.
Intermediate, paddlers and it will turn on a relative dime (for a 20 footer) The turning can be enhanced with a slight heel so that you bring the hulls curvature into play to assist the process.
Obviously, a boat of that type would favor very experienced paddlers to get the most from the design. I modified your hull so that it conformed to requirements, made a couple other minor changes, and then made a comparison between it and my design. I pulled it together from a series of other canoes I have done in the past which had characteristics that I found positive for what you had described for your event.
The turn of the bilge will be important as to the stability manners of the hull when paddled. I should mention that none of the races in this competition are too long, maybe 5 or 10 minutes in duration. It offers you a professional, fully detailed high performance CAD Software Package that gives increased freedom in modeling knuckle lines, allows surfaces that can contain holes and lets you build even the most complex shapes that can be created with just one surface.
You can rest easy knowing that all your personal and financial information is COMPLETELY protected. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. I've read the Gougeon Brothers book on boat construction chapter dealing with that and it suggests trial and error method. It shows stuff that is purportedly not developable in red under developability check but the program was originally written for steel plate and ship building. Like a dummy I even altered the design slightly which nearly made it impossible to attach the front deck. It is similar to Chris Kulczycki's Yare kayak which again is similar to Dennis Davis' DK 13 kayak.
This process stresses the wood - and perhaps the builder - to the limit; hence, tortured plywood.


Designing compounded-plywood boats is both fascinating and frustrating; the results are often not as you had hoped.
Because compounded-plywood boats can be beautiful, efficient, and sleek, and it is thrilling to see them take shape. However, I need some good software for analyzing the canoe's stability and ability to turn? Since you didn't indicate your level of experience, I opted for a milder version of a fast boat and got all around handling and forgiveness instead. Right now my problem is that I can't get Freeship to display my resistance when I use the KAPER method.
I like a little bit of flare forward to deflect any wave patterns and keep them from reaching up and over the gunnels amidships. I have had some success with it for tortured areas or areas that it thinks wouldn't be doable in ply.
I ignored the distortion numbers that FreeShip reported and was able to bend the resulting double-width plywood garboard but the bottom shape was horrible. I've read parts 1-3 dealing with frictional and residual resistance, what more is there to a canoe!
The most minor variation in stiffness of individual sheets of plywood can result in hulls that have differences in shape even though they were built to the same design.
I would prefer freeware because it's a student organization and we certainly don't have much money!
I managed to increase the KM a tad by creating sharper chines and pulling them out wider, but I don't think I can pull them out any more.
I've posted the spreadsheet comparing the important factors of the hulls (I've actually made some changes to my own design and also done a couple transforms just to see the effects). I wouldn't take it higher for a boat that weighs this much as it will kill you to hold the speed there for any distance.
About how much power per person could I expect for let's say 10 minutes for an intermediate paddler? The lesson here was, if the plank developments start to look weird or are difficult to bend then maybe you should reduce the plank width; long skinny planks will conform much more readily than short wide ones of the same thickness. You will also probably get that kind of error in layout and cutting of the panels too if you don't CNC.
For a new design with developed planks that get twisted severely, I like to cut templates from cheap ply and check to see how those bend first before I let my saw sink it's teeth into good quality wood. In the end he got a boat that worked fairly well but it never drew a following and faded away over time.



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