Location: Muscatine, Iowa 2 person pontoon boat i am wanting to build a small pontoon boat, and i have never built a boat before or fiberglassed anything, but i do have construction skills i have built many things just none that float and my stuff is usually built from steel.
The dory was made from ? inch marine grade (okume) plywood with 1X2 sheer clamps, and it is a very strong, rigid boat. The 8 foot scow was made from underlayment with 1X1 sheer clamps and it is strong and rigid.
The point being, you can make a nice rigid structure from plywood, and you can make a poor one. Using your pontoons, if they are 16 inches square, for each inch of length, they displace 16 X 16 inches, or 256 cubic inches.
Also, it would be very easy to make the bows in a curve instead of the abrupt 45 degree angle. With what you're doing you can do small areas at a time and come back, sand down the edges and do a little more, it won't effect the final outcome. Location: Muscatine, Iowa Sam thanks for all the info i really appreciate it.
Location: Coastal Georgia I haven't been involved with fiberglass for awhile, some one else could tell you particulars. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. I've been doing some work on an old 15' aluminum boat with a 1999 40 hp Mercury 3-cyclinder motor ; touching up the interior, replacing the plywood deck, reforming the console, etc.
I'm sorry, but where you got the idea that anything within seven inches of the battery will be corroded is simply not true.
So if he wants to go 72 inches then the conductor has to be in a sheath, such as wire loom or conduit or inside an enclosure such as an electrical panel.
Ungrounded conductors connected to a storage battery, other than cranking motor conductors, must have overcurrent protection in accordance with 183.455(a). Overcurrent protection with a switch may be located anywhere along the battery cable, if the boat was built before August 1, 1985.
The only exception to the overcurrent protection requirement for conductors is for cranking motor power conductors, as excepted in 183.455(e). The figure you are showing above is the Fig 25 from the USCG Boatbuilders Handbook that is referred to above. Location: New Jersy 1 VERY important fact of Aluminum boat hulls is they are avery good conductor of electricty. Another bad thing is the current running thru the hull CAN CAUSE the hull to become a battery & get eaten away by Galvanic action. Location: Greenville, WI Wiring Diagram Thanks for all the help, fellas. First, my wiring diagram should show up - If so, you'll be able to see that I plan to wire in 3 switches (2 for the lights, 1 for trolling motor; I know I could easily connect the lights together behind one switch, but for my purposes (I don't want to buy another positive bus bar today) I'm just going to separate them. Location: Eustis, FL Considering the load on a trolling motor, you'll need a relay to shunt the 12 VDC load to the motor without going all the way to and from a switch. Custom Design Bass Boat Wrap JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Just wondering if anyone has seen or knows where I can purchase plans for modern bass boat In most cases early on, little building was done on substantial jigs. Styled after the ever-popular Down East bass boats, this boat will turn heads semi-custom wood boats or further information on our custom wooden boat building and design.
American Flag Bass Boat Wrap Design JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser.
As far as the laminating the plywood, I read that on someone else s build thread that a major boat builder puts a layer of glass between the wood layers on their cold molded boats. As far as reinventing the wheel, the Fastcat, Liberator bass, and tallon flats boats are all cool and all but my nature has been to build what I want sense i was a kid.


Also - in the total scope of this project, the marking & cutting out of panels is by far not the most difficult or time consuming, so i wouldn't consider the CNC router to be a huge step up vs.
Jim and I talked about getting the balance between the life of the padded surfaces and the aerodynamic life produced by the wing. As far as the CNC router helping out, It will help a lot with how the finished design will be built. I have been getting all my ducks in a row to consult with Jim (aeromarineresearch) on do's and dont's when it comes to modifications to the liberator tunnel design. I was going to buy that talon mold and hull but long story short, I chose not to do so for various reasons.
Pretty much have the hull laid out how I want and next i will start on the top deck and bulkheads. I just ordered the Tunnel Hull Design software from Jim I figure its better to work out any bugs or ill traits before they are built into the real boat. I did some rough figuring on materials needed and I came up with the following which I rounded up a good percentage. I was reading that a new Liberator hull is 1400lbs fresh out of the molds so if I can build my boat with all the interior storage compartments at around 1300lbs I will be happy. This is my rough figures which would make it lighter than a standard build liberator 21 sport boat.
If you came straight down, or with a slight angle for a few inches and then started the curve, it would look a little less boxy. What your trying to get is waterproofing and some abrasion resistance and durability against weathering of the plywood. The circuit breaker or fuse must be within 72 inches of the battery measured along the conductor, unless, for boats built prior to August 1, 1985, the circuit has a switch that disconnects the battery.
If you tap a lead off of a disconnect switch that is part of the heavy cable running to the starter motor circuit. If the conductor is connected directly to the battery terminal and is contained throughout its entire distance in a sheath or enclosure such as a conduit, junction box, control box or enclosed panel, the overcurrent protection shall be placed as close as practicable to the battery, but not to exceed 72 inches (1.83m).
To gain enough opening to put all needed wires into the tube I made the opening 2" long UNDER THE PLATES.
You must have JavaScript enabled in your browser to utilize the functionality of this website. A perfect boat building plan is all about getting the most awesome boat one has ever owned.
Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world. I understand that without a thicker core there is little gain in strength other then puncture resistance which is a minor concern.
There is no way to have the boat balanced at all speeds so i will just have to design around the desired speed.
It will be a self jigging interlocking design that is built on a level surface should result in a very accurate hull. That Talon hull and mold has been for sale for going on 2 years now and when i first saw it, that is when my plans leaned towards building my own boat.
It will be good to get familiar with the build procedure as well as provide motivation to get started on the real thing. My only problem is i want to start cutting some wood and I am going to have to wait until my design is where it needs to be. Visual Effects' services include vehicle wraps, truck wraps, van wraps, boat wraps, vehicle lettering, graphic design and logo design, stationery, business cards, window lettering, storefronts, signs, banners, t-shirts and custom apparel. Only because a hung up anchor pulls easily into the 10 to 20 amp range while struggling to lift. To make sure that you get a seaworthy vessel, and that you enjoy your time building it, it is imperative that you use quality boat building plans.


I agree this is a heck of a big project and I have a good understanding on the balancing act that must be sorted act with such a design.
I think I could possibly work with a thicker wood as most of the bending parts are not very wide. The fast cat looks to fat and the liberator looks like a hacked out standard liberator with decks and the talon is cool but rare and as with all these boats cost a butt load.
At the stage I am at now, It is best to make any aerodynamic or hydrodynamic changes that may improve the design or, maybe Jim will suggest that the liberator design is spot on and the details can be sorted out with minor changes to weight distribution. I could very easily build a mold for the design I am working on but, being a core material is needed on such a boat anyhow, why not build it completely out of good quality light weight Marine plywood and cut back on the glass thickness and have a stronger lighter boat. Any + lead or cable that accidently shorts to the hull below the water line can easily start a sinking. I talked to Jim at Aeromarine for a good while today and although i was heading the right way i knew there would be a few other areas to address. I get a lot of enjoyment out of the design and build phase and it almost outweighs the joys of getting on the water and fishing.
There is no perfect setup so i will just need to make sure the design will work well in a set range and thats it. There are very few parts that have to be cut or trimmed with a knife or sandpaper to build one of my design. I have yet to figure weight per using wood as a core material vs wooden hull glassed inside and out, but, from all i have read the later is stronger and lighter.
I just wanted to make clear to you that with the boat, the passengers and gear all weighing 1100 pounds, your pontoons will only be about 8" deep in the water. Printed with super high resolution clarity, this wrap is sure to make your boat stand proud among all the other boats.
The boat will be a wooden liberator bottom which I do not plane to change unless Jim advises me to do so.
All the parts tab together and self jigging while all the sheeting is cut to the perfect shape. The reason boats are not built this way is it takes more work where as a new fiberglass hull can be made in a day. I think they would enjoy the process of building something then being able to get in that something and drive it. We talked about the deck shape increasing aerodynamic lift which i knew would have to be addressed and it could be a very good change or it could cause some issues. Maybe new products create a lighter completely composite hull but then you are looking at having to open the wallet more. I will be sending Jim all the measurements from the liberator hull as well as the measurements for my proposed build. I can still go either way with this build, I am still in the design stage of getting the boat dimensions as I desire for the performance i hope to achieve. I know the details are key for a good performing hull design and I plan get those details as sorted out as possible. Whatever the case I am looking forward to the project no matter how much trouble it ends up being to get it right.
Put one on a flat piece of scrap ply, wet it out and use a plastic auto body filler squeegee to work out the bubbles.
You'll get a good idea of what you have to do and how long you have to do it and what the results will be. Try overlapping one that's already set up and you'll see what problems arise and what you can do about it.



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