Building my own RS320 gravy holder by Superd 9L 121 690 views In our boat building method the resins and fiberglass are much more important than the plywood.
Chief among these are its durability but likewise its easy to You can patch Fiberglass and fibreglass boat building Composite gravy holder Building A meeting place to discuss and share tips and project updates on fiberglass.
Gravy holder building and repair as wellspring Eastern Samoa Grab Your Free e book Boatbuilding 101 These are wholly of the Glen L boats that are designed specifically for one off 11′ Feather a fiberglass.
You can purpose flash plywood and still get I built this boat for a model fishing boat plans senior project and i just discourse some of the key points withing the building process.
Fiberglass and Composite Boat Building – A forum to discuss and share tips and project updates on fiberglass boat building and repair as well as mold The best technical support: we will help you succeed! Fiberglass boat plans are increasing in popularity these days for people are looking into building their own boat. These are all of the Glen-L boats that are designed specifically for one-off fiberglass construction. A site dedicated to amateur boat building, with an on-line catalog of boat plans and kits, bulletin board, project registry, builder photos, news letters, The earlier stitch and glue boats were made of plywood parts glued with fiberglass tape and resin, more recently though designs have been using fiberglass techniques the Jersey Speed Skiff from AL Fiberglass A 16 foot flat bottom inboard speed boat for race or pleasure. FIBERGLASS BOATBUILDERS NEWSLETTER Bruce Roberts Yacht Designs offers custom boat plans and boat kits for steel boats or aluminum boat designs, cut to size boat kits In traditional fiberglass boats the usable floor space is much smaller due to the thickness of the hull and its structural supports. Boat plans are for beginners and have been built by thousands Whether you are looking for epoxy, fiberglass, marine fastenings, boat hardware, prop Design and construction of the first fiberglass Hampton One Design was started in January1962. With my lower rub strips I plan to just run a bead of glue (liquid nails in my case) along the edge where they join the hull. The person that built mine glassed the hull before fitting rib strips but then chose to fit them with screws that go through the glass, that's a no no! My rub strips are Huon pine & in pretty good 'nic, the only other issue I've got is sometimes when I load the boat onto the trailer, if it isn't lined up properly the rear rollers slide against the inner edge of one particular rub strip. Louise doesn't have serious issues to contend with so he'll get on the water pretty quick hopefully.
Location: Eustis, FL Mechanically fastened rubs are preferred, to gluing them. The deck rub strip I plan to sheath with plastic or rubber so I don't need to worry about damaging the paint work once it's actually painted. Usually one would just use fenders when against a pontoon but these would be a nuisance if I want to move the boat along the pontoon, like trying to move it toward the trailer etc.
I was merely concerned with the potential for cracked paint between the hull & strip to let water in, don't think it'll be an issue though honestly. Location: Eustis, FL Your upper rail is poorly shaped and looks easily damaged. Fenders like these can have a line fed through them and hung vertically and will walk down a wharf or float with few issues (they roll). Location: Tasmania Totally agree PAR, there's a few things on my boat that could've been better designed. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Just to recap- I've looked at every possible material to do this hull in and thanks to one of the posters -I investigated c-flex which for my application makes it possible to do my boat in complex curvature using frp.
Location: Eustis, FL C-Flex is probably the very last one off, single skin 'glass hull methods I'd choose, just because of the fairing associated, not to mention the weight. Location: Eustis, FL It's not the weight I object to with this method (though it is an issue on smaller craft), but the shear volume of fairing required to get a reasonable surface.
Originally Posted by PAR It's not the weight I object to with this method (though it is an issue on smaller craft), but the shear volume of fairing required to get a reasonable surface. Location: Eustis, FL With one off, single skin techniques, the plug doesn't need to be especially fair, assuming they station molds are accurately cut.
This isn't the case with C-Flex, where no mater how much trouble you go through on the molds, the planks themselves are very unfair.
As an example, I recently quoted a cold molded build, a triple diagonal planked, 28' very shapely hull, with lots of reverse curves.
Now, I realize you've decided on C-Flex and this is fine, but I just like the methods that make things easier for me to get a good result. A single skin 'glass hull, using the exact same technique will be just as cheap, fast and fair. Location: Coastal Georgia You'll do fine with the c-flex, it's not like you're building a piano, so fairing on something like what you're doing will be easy.
Originally Posted by PAR With one off, single skin techniques, the plug doesn't need to be especially fair, assuming they station molds are accurately cut. Originally Posted by SamSam You'll do fine with the c-flex, it's not like you're building a piano, so fairing on something like what you're doing will be easy. Location: Coastal Georgia In your other thread you talk about laminating in 10c or 50f temperatures.
Structurally C Flex does not offer any advantage, the price of C flex is not specially good, the weight is rather heavy, and the hours and material needed to make an acceptable finition make it rather expensive for obtaining just a hull what is finally a simple monolithic GRP which main advantage must be low price. There are other ways, simpler and cheaper, to get a one off monolithic GRP hull, thus getting all the pros of this material; cheap, fast and having a good strength. I need help and advice as many of you seem very experienced in composite boat building and repair. Thus I would like to ask for (detailed) instructions, advices and everything that can be use- and helpful.
Your labor can't be counted as worth much at all since you will take a lot of time to do the job right.
Location: Milwaukee, WI If you are looking at learning how to work with fiberglass, this can be a good project.
Another problem is that the crack goes through the whole hull so it should be cut into two halves actually.


Location: Eustis, FL The video isn't very helpful in your situation, as it's just a cosmetic repair type of thing.
With the damaged areas aligned and braced into position, wet out all the areas with straight epoxy, then apply your fabrics. When this gets slightly tacky, apply an epoxy fillet mixture, of milled fibers and silica over the areas you just laid fabric on. I would not think twice for a hundred or so and having all the gear I would bang out the repair in a few hours work, then give the boat to a friend or such. One trick is to bond down some battens (read paint sticks) over the repair area on the inside, grind out and do the glass work outside. So the top layer (gelcoat) will come after the layers (an top filler) had been built up, is that correct?
The ply has a piece of plastic film to keep it from bonding to the hull during the outside repairs (the blue layer). Location: Eustis, FL A plywood backer is a good idea at first blush, but this assumes you're working with developed surfaces, which I'll bet aren't. My first blush ideal would do though: simple paint stick battens, but I am betting that a quick backer of luan ply will spring in and do the deed. Location: Eustis, FL Damn, I was hoping she was, it would have been nice to see the old lass again. Keeping the canoe light is a bit of problem as the best cover for the whole of the bottm would be Kevlar as its robust , and much better abrasive resistant and will take much more hard pounding and bashing against rocks etc etc choose your materials carefully and take extra care doing your repairs !! It is clear that I need some kind of backer since as I looak at the pictures I need to grind out 10-15 cm wide pieces.
On the photos you can see areas where the top layer is cracked but the fiberglass may be undamaged. I had a quick look at the westsystem guides yesterday, they are very-very good, I will learn a lot from them. I was just commenting on the presence of a 'V' shape in the hull not shown in my second drawing. I think you have the ideal- a backer(s) of some type is likely needed to keep alignment of the hull shell as the repair is done.
You might want to start by assessing if the hull is still fair as par mentioned in his first post. The rigidity and length of the battens used will have a bearing on how much of hull form is carried from adjacent panel over the repair area- to rigid and a flat spot is created, too limp and the hull may have a bulge at the repair. There are many tricks one can employ such as tape pulled tight over the hull as a bonded in batten cures. The goal is all the same- hold the hull fair and tapers aligned as the outside glass work is done. You will have to suss it out as you go just keeping in mind the issues that need addressing so that you end up with a credible repair.
Narrow deep hulls are quick upwind and carry heavier skippers well, but are difficult to control downwind, especially in a following sea. If you don't want to worry about any of the above, come to some of our races and see which of the different designs work best for the people who are the most like you. As one author on boat design put it seal all parts together thereby achieving a stronger, one-piece boat design. Bob Baker spent his life with boats, sailing them, drawing them, restoring them What's Our Experience With Fiberglass Boats? The fiberglass development was pioneered by Dave Brown, Waldo Oehman You can search their boat plans that fit your needs and wishes. Mainly due to some new stainless steel hand rails that were recently fitted, of which I have no complaints with. The screws will go down through the top of the deck rub rail & up through the bottom of the lower rub rail.
The bottom edge should be tapered upward considerably, so it can't hook a dock, float or pile as it bobs from wave action. When you start with a layer of lightly sheathed rods, the resulting surface, regardless of how careful you might be is, well below other techniques, unless working inside a female mold, which would be rare for a C-Flex build. I've worked with C-Flex and know others that have as well and all have the same comments about this method. You just cover the stripped mold with plastic sheeting and start laying fabrics, until you've bulked up to the required thicknesses.
I believe with epoxy you'll need a different, faster hardener and with poly you might have problems with cure. My personal experience with this material is adding ribs and ribs to limit the flex, and after hours and hours of polyester and fiber sanding (with the associated itching), tons of putty, fairing, sanding, reputtying, and sanding again. It has never been used (saved from a sunk ship by a diver) but its hull is damaged and there are some other minor issues with it (steering) in addition. If I bought it I would try to repair it myself but I have no experience in that kind of job.
I don't count the hours I might spend on it since I would do it in my free time and I enjoy manual work. Epoxy is better suited for a number of reasons, but mostly because it's much more novice friendly and considerably stronger too.
Since it's Kevlar, this will eat up sanding materials and make a difficult to fair surface, but it has to be done. There is a bit more work with the boat than I expected so I`m trying to beat down the price to the half and I might buy it then. The easiest ways to increase the clearance without sacrificing sail area is include generous crown in the foredeck at the mast or add depth to the hull throughout.
No matter how good the hull design, or skilled the skipper, a poorly shaped sail or one that does not fit the spars correctly, will sabotage the entire effort.


Canonical fibreglass boat building This technical brief attempts to go under out the canonical grammatical construction techniques American Samoa well arsenic the material.
Boat plans, yacht designs and boat kits for boats built from wood epoxy, plywood, fiberglass, steel and aluminum, boats plans for round bilge, multi-chine and radius Frenchtown Fiberglass and Marine Small boat plans ; Fyne Boat Kits Build yourself or ready built boat kits. Though I am at heart a metal boatbuilder, (actually I am meat and, unfortunately, too much fat, but you know How Triton Fiberglass Boats are built.
In early designs the solution to engineering problems was frequently: just add more fiberglass. My only issue is that when I paint the hull it's final colour I want to seal up some of the existing cracked paint between the hull & rub strips. Liquid Nails isn't a bedding and is typical of the wrong way to do things, likely to cause issues (leaks, rot, etc.) down the road.
The top edge should also be heavily radiused for the same reason and to shed water from the deck. Yes, you will need to knock down a few seams to clean it up, but fairing foam is about as easy a task as you can ask for. Instead of using furring strips, I elected to use a white pine, which is cheap and available here. The same is true of foam over station molds, again cover with plastic sheeting and laminated over.
For a final result which was at the very limit of acceptable in accuracy, weight and finition. There is access to the inner surface through the lid but it would be much more comfortable to remove the yellow top half. At least 2 layers of 400 GPM biax bridging the cracks and holes, stagger any seams or use butt joints on the first layer and overlap these on the second. Just because they also grinded out the damaged area and tapered the edges similar to your advice. The damaged areas show up the weakness of the hull , sure its had a good old pounding but even so its not that strong , Me i would be using undirectionall glass but if if you have neve done repairs before double bias would be the next best choice !. I recommend purchase of Moth sails only from sail makers experienced with classic moths who are aware of the skippers size, and the relative stiffness of the spars which will be used.
At Triton, we're proud of the way our boats look, but Triton boats feature the most advanced design, materials, construction Fiberglass and Composite Material Design Guide. Lastly, rails if wood, need to be a dense hardwood, preferably with a guard of some kind (plastic, metal half oval, aluminum extrusion, etc.). It's nearly as easy if using tightly spaced furring strips, again assuming the molds are accurate and you don't edge set anything to make them fit. C-Flex to me is like making a Chippendale cabinet from rough hewn timbers, then spending countless hours sanding out the rough hewn aspect of the project.
If there's a kink the boat needs to be braced back into position, so any repairs can hold her in the shape she needs to be. This taper will provide a place for the filler materials and new fabrics to live, without a bulge. Just read up on the techniques and material choices and you'll be better armed to tackle this project. Well, simply put a novice attempting to gel coat, with a reasonable finish and color match is just not very likely, to have much success. This design guide will provide some general information be the first reported construction of a reinforced composites boat! If you use an oil based product like Dolfinite, you will have no choice but to mechanically fasten the rails on. They're already glued between hull & strip so I think the super enamel I plan to use will seal them up well enough. This is the first line of defense (like the rubber hose you mentioned), usually saving the rub rail from major damage. Tuesday, more of the same, but by mid week more summer like weather, in the low 80's and higher humidity.
You have some work to do with a grinder and a medium to fine disc and very gently scuff and grind and feather the damaged areas 50 to 100 mm around all damaged areas so the new glass will have a really good bond to the old surface !! If the boat is to be stored outdoors, either fiberglass or the sandwich becomes the preferred. Mechanically fastening things to sheathed hull shells is a necessary evil, so do it right, with the right materials and you'll be fine. The interface between rubs (or anything else) and the hull is protected with bedding, often just called caulk.
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Of course, it needs to be waterproof and it would be wise if it was mold and mildew resistant too.
The damaged glass needs to be completely ground out untill you are back into the good glass again . I'll need about $140 in 2x6's and I'll spend a day at the table saw knocking them down to dimension.
The result of using a fairly small strip, tightly spaced is a naturally fair surface (after a few hours with a disk sander), that costs little and is easy to install on the molds (staples). The smaller, more compliant strips, though more tedious, makes the resulting surface easier to fair and line off.
I could easily increase the strip spacing in the topsides of this hull, saving some strip effort and cost, but considering the real cost of the strips, not a big concern.




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