Fiberglass Boat Designs CAROLINA HULL Web site design by D4 Data Design Platt Design Garvey 21 fiberglass hull shown running with a 40 hp outboard. Southport Boats manufactures fiberglass fishing boats using an exclusive Hunt 4 hull design in Augusta, Maine.
Fiberglass can be contoured to any desirable shape, resulting in more efficient hull designs. For a one-off fiberglass hull, this process is even harder because the relatively soft Forming in Fiberglass was added to the Boat Design To be sure that the modified boat hull won’t leak at the day until your hull and internal surface of the boat are covered with enough fiberglass to meet your design HydroMarine of Germany Fiberglass Race Boats in white gel coat unless specified otherwise. Location: australia first re-build how do i glue new wood to old glass hull? This sort of work is done by laying up layers of fiberglass cloth over the wood stringers and floors you have fited to 'glue' them to the hull.
Bond down the stringers with epoxy thickened with cabosil and use a rounded corner of a paint stick to slick some nice rounded filets down each side. Lay up the laminate over the longitudinal members first with good continuous laminate to insure water won't get to the stringers. When placing the cross members provide some drain holes along side the stringers and amidships to allow water to get aft to a pump.
If the ply deck is really well fastened it will lend a great deal of stiffening to the floor. Location: Eustis, FL Flexing in the hull isn't unusual, in fact it's expected and accounted for in the laminate design.
Add some closed cell polyurethane foam to the bow area and under the aft deck area, if you want to.
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Location: allentown, pa usa Newby needs to repair hull Hello, I just joined today, and need to repair my hull in 2 places on a 2000 maxum 2300 sr. The first hole is in the front bottom of hull-I cut out the material and the hole is about 10 inches wide and 24 inches long. My thoughts where to place a backer laminate with a few strips of formica on the inside glued in place just to support the new repair while laying up. The original hull I would guess was fabricated with polyster resins and matting or a chop gun. I am wondering if I should vacuum bag, or if the epoxy is even thick enough to hold it inverted without vacuum bagging.
Location: Sunny Ft Lauderdale Fla Can you get to the damage from the inside or is the tank in the way? Originally Posted by War Whoop Can you get to the damage from the inside or is the tank in the way? I cannot access from the inside without removing the top half of boat, which also has the front section,dash, and floor molded in. The layup should hold without bagging when you use a epoxy resin with high thixotropy (thick stuff) for the first layers. Richard No ******* evidently you are ignorant on repairing as well as reading,I would suggest a 4th grade remedial reading comprehension then you could make better replies and defend yourself a little better,Now repairing a hull bottom should be done from both sides. Location: Eustis, FL This is a common type of repair and it can be done from the outside. The first thing to do is jack the boat up and get it high enough to work under it securely, without fear it will fall on you.
Feather the edges of the now widened hole, until it's at least half as thick (or more) along the edges.
The mat portion of the Knytex you plan on using is only necessary for polyester, because of this resin's inherent weakness.
Location: Sunny Ft Lauderdale Fla It is better to do the repair from the inside for a couple reasons,One is the obvious as there is no fairing and some structure can be added to the repair,a vinlyester could be looked at as it can be gelcoated and match the factory bottom,with epoxy you do not have that alternative.
Location: Eustis, FL Well, yes you can gel coat over epoxy, though you will need a binder, though I wouldn't bother, I'd just paint to save the trouble. With careful setup and some experience, you could still do a reasonable job with a mold and working from the outside. Location: MICH Hey guy using formica is a very good idea or anything that is flexable i often use very thin plastic with packing tape on it or starboard and when you are getting ready to laminate overhead might i suggest mixing a little cabosil in the resin which will help keep the fabric in place and yes you will need a binder when spraying jell over Epoxy and i always use a Primer made by Duratec which comes in white and if you decide to paint the area that was repaired either way you will still have to use a primer.
Originally Posted by War Whoop It is better to do the repair from the inside for a couple reasons,One is the obvious as there is no fairing and some structure can be added to the repair,a vinlyester could be looked at as it can be gelcoated and match the factory bottom,with epoxy you do not have that alternative.
Dude you better go building your high speed junks, and leave the advice on repairs to the experts like Paul Riccelli. Solar Powered Boat Hull Hi, I'm new to this forum, but figured there was no where better to get help in building a boat than a boat forum. Composites One is a major supplier to most of the boatbuilding companies in the country, and they can also give you the technical advise that you will need. Do you have any suggestions for the best core material for our application that is easy to work with? Location: spain Foam is nice stuff, but expensive and tricky to use for beginners. In the front you might experience some difficulties to plank without heat bending, but consider changing the direction of the planks there.

Strongplank was made in a quite cumbersome manner, weaving fibers around the core, then manually impregnating them, clamping them in moulds, then sand after cure. Location: Florida Structural Repair of Fiberglass Hull I recently came across a 1999 48' Ocean Super Sport that had been struck in the transom by another boat. In the aerospace industry we could repair a substantial delamination using custom windings of carbon fibre, but the component would not be airworthy. Location: Corpus Christi TX Any fiberglass boat, cored or not, is repairable. Everything appears fine, but the stern damage, flybridge equipment, rails and other assorted gear.
You have to ask yourself, why hasn't a salvage company picked her up, removed the good pieces and dragged the hulk to the land fill? It's very hard to sell a boat like this one, so you'll be bidding against other hopeful would be owners and restorers.
Everybody knows it's hard to sell a yacht in this size range, let alone one that doesn't float without tens of thousands of dollars in additional effort.
If you have a good bit of experience repairing or restoring large power craft then this is the boat for you.
I once bought a sweet big Grady, but had to have it moved from in from of the shopping center's front door, before they were done putting in windows and roofing.
I turned down a very good deal on a 98' schooner (wish I hadn't now) that was lifted over her docking piles, then dropped down (storm surge), holing her in the four locations the yacht was tied to. In my line of work any structural crack like the ones on that boat means the entire part must be scrapped. Location: Eustis, FL In high end yachts this isn't far from what you've described. Location: Canada replacing stringers I'm fairly new to boating, I don't know the slang and proper words of most things I'll be talking about here, so bare with me and educate me when needed.
I got some 2X4 that have been sitting in the basement for over a year so it's safe to say they are dry.
I'm on a tight budget, but I still want to make sure I don't sink first time I take her back to the lake. I have no idea how to change the rotten wood in the transom because it's got that pit right in front of it. Pascoe, Marine subjected to the same type of forces as a boat hull Instead, modern fiberglass boat hulls relay on a The boat hull design is one of the most important considerations when choosing a boat.
A thorough review is given to the characteristics of fiberglass materials and laminate design 8m Fiberglass boat with cabin, New Zealand Design Engineering, Deep-V Hull, CE, 5-year fiberglass Warranty, Volvo Penta. This hull design is are currently set by Lloyds and American Bureau of Ships for fiberglass boats.
16 foot fly fishing rig this is a 16 foot fly fishing boat to be, i got it cheep of ebay and on my first run with a 30 hp yam the hull flexed about 50-100 mm the same with a 15 hp, i was going to ditch it but found my self caught in 20-30 knt winds and very sharp 2-3 mtr wind slop in the lake, and it got me home, so i can trust the hull if i go stedy, but am i doing the right thing with this design?
Some boats are designed to flex a great deal, so they can give a little, with the on coming seas or twist as it rides over rolling waves, etc.
These need to be there and are little more then notches on or near the centerline of the boat, to let moisture run aft to a transom drain (you can't have too many weeps).
It will provide floatation if you get swamped, but it will do little with the flexing (which is okay).
Try not to add too much weight to this boat, she can only handle so much, before she becomes over burdened and performs like a pig. Some of the rebuilds are pretty extreme with workmanship and top of the line materials being used, too.
I was going to work from the outside inverted, since the boat weighs 4000lbs and I have no way of flipping it! There might be a layer or 2 of woven roving in there, but it looks to me that it was all matting, and the pieces pull apart easy (delaminated).
I have done 2 transoms in the past, but that was 20 years ago, and I thought woven roving and chopped mat with polyster resin was the best route on them at the time. Your idea of a Formica backer is a good one and will keep your material costs down from less waste.
Then take a grinder to the damage area and feather the 'glass back several inches all around. This will help tie the old laminate to the new laminate and prevent cracking out or concentrated stress risers between old and new.
You have to decide which resin system to use, polyester, which is what you boat is made of or epoxy, which is a much better repair material for the back yard guy looking to fix the latest headache on his boat. Try to make the laminate as thick, if not thicker then what was knocked out during the impact. Secondly the 1708 will suck up epoxy resin like crazy and isn't necessary, nor desired for epoxy.
I agree it would be nice to have access at both sides of this for repair, especially for as War Whoop hints, you can employ some sort of mold for the exterior surfaces, greatly reducing fairing. Yet even related to its shift in Manatee Pocket, light yellow hull Marlena seems like a quick and smooth operator. Augustine, FL, USA Go to Composites One who are a major composites distributor. Augustine, FL, USA I prefer Core-Cell (SP Systems--Gurit) because is has good properties and comes in a variety of forms.

Augustine, FL, USA Call one of their sales offices closest to you and start asking questions about price.
I have no idea of the skills present in your project group, but perhaps it is an idea to invite someone experienced to have him show his skills. If you plank your way from the deck up to the keel, in narrow strips (the width dependant on the curve it needs to make) then you probably do not need to heat bend.
Apparently the force of collision was substantial: the transom is cracked and completely delaminated from the bottom of the transom door to the trailing edge of the hull. I have to admit, living here in Florida, I get kind of excited when hurricane season springs into gear.
There are many books available on the subject, but basically, the damage is cut away and replaced with a layup of new material. Well it's like you car, some places charge $60 per man hour, some much higher, the selection is based on faith, just like the guy you trust to fix your car and the experiences you have with him provide you with the faith to bring it back for additional work if the need (doesn't it always) arises.
We are currently working on a carbon fibre-Al-CuNi sandwich technology that would yield an extremely strong lightweight panel that can be twisted like a pretzle and is corrosion resistant without any coatings.
Pascoe, Marine Surveyor A wood boat is the sum of its many parts while a fiberglass boat hull is I recently came across a 1999 48' Ocean Super Sport that had been struck in the transom by another boat. Fiberglass construction is hand labor OPTIMIZED RACING BOAT DESIGN USING UNIQUE HIGH STRENGTH FIBERGLASS David Fecko of gravity without a loss in hull strength.
Yacht design concepts, custom hull designs, lighter and We have found plywood laminated with fiberglass and Kevlar to be the ideal materials for boat hulls layers of fiberglass. Since you've made up a new interior and have the pieces ready to install them, go ahead and bond them in with epoxy and cloth tabbing. Even though you may be sealing in the floor, moisture will find a way to get in there and it should have a way to get out, or it will rot the wood. You're off to a great start, keep up the good work and send more pictures as you get further along. The engine is out, and I will cut that section out (36 inches long by6 inches wide, and do the repair from the inside.
This is after you've removed the obvious delaminated damage, which you can cut out with one of several tools. Of course, access to the other side to insure good contact would be quite beneficial, but on the other hand, you could make a layup that was sufficiently heavy enough to compensate for the lack of both side access.
I am just a little confused by some of the sites I have seen, like about sheets and rolls and resins. However the way the core material is splintered it strikes me that any repair in this area would be prone to stress cracks and eventual failure. From the sound of it, I think this Ocean was definitely repairable, so long as the engines, other systems are in good order. However with the fly bridge went all of the electronics, engine management system and controls. One would think that at these price levels a buyer would have a very stringent set of requirements. I know that's a terrible thing to hope for, but you can't imagine the deals a marina, owner, bank or insurance company will make to get a broken 40' yacht out of someone's backyard. The company that got it, cut and replaced the piles, tacked plywood over the damaged areas and floated her away.
RIB boat * Nice and polupar design * Fiberglass hull and PVC tube * CE These are the basics of boat hull design used on RC boats (and real ones too!).
Coat all the wood with epoxy, including notches, screw holes, everything, with special attention to the end grain areas of the ply, where they are most vulnerable to moisture.
This isn't the way a pro likes to work, as it wastes materials and labor, but working under a shade tree, you can afford to kiss off a few layers of fabric and several ounces of resin.
If anyone knows any vendor closer to Rochester, NY that'd be best since it would decrease the cost of shipping. I'm sure I could try to talk some companies down in price a little for sponsorship recognition. Cores are usually easily repairable by cutting the skin open, cutting out and replacing the damaged core, then rebuilding the skin.
I looked up similar boats in the 98-02 model years of the same size, engine and operating hours and they averaged $320-375k asking price. Learning about the different designs and their performance differences will help you Did you ever wonder where the lapstrake hull design came from for MFG's boats? If struck the lamination will stretch and then rebound (kind of like the plastic panels found on certain cars).

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