Pull the boat out of the water and allow it to dry.? Tap around the damage with a screwdriver handle to determine its extent. This entry was posted in Marine Technician Training and tagged Boats, Collision and Marine Mechanics, Fiberglass, Marine, marine technician school on by ATC. Take a tour of Automotive Training Center's campuses in PA and hear testimonials from recent graduates, and employers who have hired ATC graduates. Anyone who is taking on a boat restoration project will run into working with fiberglass and gel coats. An extremely common problem that people face during boat repair is typically referred to as “Spider cracks.” These are small cracks in the in the gel coat of a boat that sits on top of the fiberglass coating. Cleaning and sanding must done in the area of the gouge, however, you should remove as little material as possible around the area.
These are basic repairs that will equip you with the skills and experience necessary to handle more in-depth repairs that you might face later in addition to small aesthetic repairs that will certainly arise. Location: The Netherlands For bonding (ply)wood to polyester, grind down the gelcoat of the polyester, and glue with epoxy glue.
Before you glue the wood to the polyester, coat it several times with epoxy resin, then paint with 2K PU paint. Tremblay 228 » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post fiberglass boat building? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
Originally Posted by need idea i have pictures but how to get them on this web site is a bit confusing.is it okay to email on here they are on a cd any help in figureing that out, sorry about spelling it is getting late for me. Location: Owen Sound Ont Canada Restoration Of Fiberglass Boat Hello - I'm new to this adventure of boat restoration so please forgive me if my questions seem to the learned - fundamental. Is the foam required for structural integrity (along with safety floatation needs) and can current closed cell foam kits be used. I was planning on screwing the new floor to the 3 inch strips I left in place and then giving the fiberglass (existing) and light grind or rough up and then using fiberglass mat to readhere the new floor to the hull sides --- Does that seem reasonable.
Location: Eustis, FL No you don't need to install the foam again, but many think it's a good idea. It's wise to use marine grade plywood in the replacement sole, though many use a BCX sheet, available from their local lumber store, but it's weaker and prone to failure because of lower panel construction requirements in these grades of plywood, but fortunately the sole in most boats isn't highly loaded.


You can lay the new piece(s) on the flange created by the old sole tabbing, but the support stringers under the sole will need to be shimmed up the thickness of the removed plywood, to accommodate the height difference.
Yes, you need to coat both sides and especially the end grain of all the new pieces going in the boat, with particular attention to all cutouts and screw holes. Location: Owen Sound Ont Canada Hello Par - thank you for your advice --- a few questions. The hull of the boat has NO ribs or other structural cross or long members save for the keel itself - with the old foam removed - there is nothing there but the inside of the hull.
If you ran the boat up on trailer rollers without support - I doubt it would take much to crack the hull - so if I do not RE-foam it - then I think I need to create some form of hull support system in its place -- you views.
Location: Eustis, FL If it's one of the old Chryslers then it has a humongously thick hull shell and really doesn't need anything else. Originally Posted by MDCHILDS Hello - I'm new to this adventure of boat restoration so please forgive me if my questions seem to the learned - fundamental. To risk re-post, do not reinstall the foam unless you want someone else to perform the task you are presently undertaking.
Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world. That hole in the hull is quickly healed as well as any boat repair professional would, with glass fabric, resin, and equal parts skill and care. Tapping resin instead of brushing it eliminates trapped air bubbles that weakens fiberglass.
The techniques for dealing with both major and minor aesthetic repairs will soon take you down this road.
Once your boat is in the kind of shape that you want, even the most minor damage should always be addressed. Built by the Owens Yacht Company, the 1957 hulls ripped off a Lonestar design and quickly ceased to exist do to a pesky lawsuit. This can be a tedious pain in the butt, so most just tab it back it where it was, reusing the old tabbing (flange) to marry the old to the new.
It's actually waterproof, while polyester (boat resin at the local store) isn't, it's way stronger, doesn't smell or gas off harsh fumes and is easy to work with. These epoxy formulators have a host of information about how to use their products, but the techniques and methods apply to all epoxy work.


Contrary to what you might think, I'll bet you could strip the boat of everything and the hull shell wouldn't move much on the trailer.
When you have created the outline of your bulkhead unscrew the sticks and transfer your new pattern to your plywood. Fiberglass lay up is nothing more than layers of glass fabric saturated with polyester or epoxy resin, yet most boat owners can’t imagine doing the repair themselves. Whether you are working with a boat that needs major work or simply breathing new life into a slightly damaged vessel, a basic understanding of some of the common obstacles will be invaluable in getting your boat back on the water. This damage occurs when a sharp object of some kind scrapes the hull of the boat and actually penetrates through to the fiberglass cloth that comprises a large part of the structural integrity of the vessel. Keeping your boat in the best condition possible gives you the tools you need to handle variations on virtually any type of repairs.
This one has some cool old hardware including a bow-mounted floodlight, horn and rearview mirror. If you are concerned with sinking if you hit a reef or container, you can always seal the area airtight with epoxy, But this is overkill.
A large majority of the work in this repair involves prepping the area before actually using any fiberglass. Epoxy does cost more then polyester resin, but you don't need as much because it so much stronger. Check it out, at the time humans had not figured out how strong fiberglass was, so the designs tended to lean towards excess. For each layer of cloth, add a generous coat of resin that has been mixed with the hardening catalyst. You have a sound hull that will never need any reinforcements other than some little bulkheads to catch your soul. After the cracks have been removed, you must re-coat the area using with a fresh gelcoat applied with a puddy knife. Once the cloth and resin are in place, allow it to sit over night before finishing the area with 120-grit sandpaper.



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