Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, the bog recipe makes perfect sense now, I knew about the adding a little talc and aerosil at a time and yes absolutely a plastic container. On my boat it looks like I'll have to put a second set of stringers on the outer strakes and a keel board (didn't have them there before nor a keel board).
And Stuee, thanks for letting piggyback a little here as I think we both have our work cut out for us So what are you doing with those stringers ?? Foam stringers distribute load better over a wider area so with the right glass layup you get a stiffer bottom with less movement !
Location: East of Atlanta Ga It's a 19 ft SeaBird open runabout, a step down walkway between the seats in the cockpit helm, Volvo 270 drive with a Chrysler Slant 6, I was thinking of changing the motor to either an inline Volvo 4 cyl, also with a 270 drive, that a friend of mine has or look for a V6 that would fit it. Originally Posted by wooky30014 It's a 19 ft SeaBird open runabout, a step down walkway between the seats in the cockpit helm, Volvo 270 drive with a Chrysler Slant 6, I was thinking of changing the motor to either an inline Volvo 4 cyl, also with a 270 drive, that a friend of mine has or look for a V6 that would fit it. Oh, the drawings are not to scale and the dark areas in the smaller ones are the bilge drains why dont you consider a out board on a bracket outside and gain some more floor space and its lighter and the boat is going to go faster and be much more usable . Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, an outboard is a possibility and would allow more walking room, only reason I haven't given it much thought is already having the Volvo, I'll have to look into that, would changing over have any effect on the rated HP of the hull I think max is 165 The best bracket to get would be the one that also incorperates a boarding plateform as well will bring it really up to date and really much more usable and distrubute the loads over the whole transom not just in the middle .
Location: East of Atlanta Ga True but it gives me another avenue to check into as far as the power plant, Back to the hull, putting 4 stringers as in your drawing might work better as well for floor support, let me get something straight, other than the stringers nothing else should be glassed to the hull ? You could need to be in the hull for a few hours grinding so its 99% clean and clear of crap so the glass witll stick properly !! Location: East of Atlanta Ga Yea, I tend to measure everything twice then again just before cutting what kind of foam are you talking about vs 2X8 or laminated ply ? Im happy to see the pic of your boat as it makes me feel im not the only one in this situation. Some of the buldings i was able to work on in Japan were close to 600 years old The old houses are called Minka and they are works of art how they are held together !!
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals.
I purchased a 20ft half cab boat which the floor had been cut out, after i got home i see the floor was rotten especially at the front where it hadnt been removed yet. I have now discovered that all the stringers are rotten and 90% of them are completely gone. I decided while the floor was out i will remove the back part of the top of boat and im glad i did as the transom was like paper peices and completely rotted out.
I think thats all for now and will keep adding photos and details as i go along which hopefully will be of help to someone else. But in saying that we all do silly things from time to time its repairable and will be a totall repair and rebuild .
All i need to do it clear out the old stringers thats almost gone anyway, put in new stringers, put in new transom, then new floor, put the coaming back on and bobs my auntie,. All and any bonding to old glass surfaces need to be a minimum of 100 mm so 150 gound surface will give plenty of good bonding .
I have grinded all the stringers down, it appears there is a filling of dark colour fibreglass between the stringers and the gullys in the hull. Wil it be safe to put on that or should i remove that and put some fresh packing in and what should i use if i do?
I will put up some photos tomorrow when i clear the 2ft thick coating of fibredust from everything.
When i said packing i did mean like a filler between the the stringer wood and the actual hull.


Im not sure what the bits of wood are called, they are the bits that interlock with the stringers that the floor sits on. What would be the recommended gap between them as im just working out roughly how much wood i need and drawing a rough plan too on the computer.
I was also thinking i would cut some holes the same size of conduit in the stringers and first seal them with resin then put in the tube and seal again this way the water has drainage means to the billage drain.. One more question is how high should i make the stringers, i was wanting to make some compartments in he floor so want to calculate the room, i was also thinking of making a custom tank to go under the floor in a sealed compartment with a lid on so i can access if needs be? I have 2 x 1200x2400mm x 18mm marine ply for the stringers, what would the recommended floor thickness be?
As for drainage I was going to cut the corners off where the bulkheads meet the outer side of the stringers with no tube, letting it into the bilge at the transom and another main bilge drainway along the keel for the area between the two stringers.
Ok i have purchased the wood and its getting delivered tomorrow which i want to make the stringers and bulkheads over the weekend. Im also picking up a 20kg container of fibreglass resin as i would like to start glassing next week. I thought i would fill the hull with water to the floor level line to see if there was any holes, there was 1 i did and another where the previous person cut the floor out with a circular saw and didnt quite cut through but close enough for it to weep. Would filling the cut line with resin then a sheet of glass on top after the resin has set be enough?
When i filled the boat up with water i saw it had sat on the trailer properly again as when i removed all the rotten stringers it seemed to turn floppy and also the hull seemed not to sit on the trailer properly and pivot side to side. What would be also the best way to join 2 stringers together, please select a number from attached image, personally i think number 1 as number 2 has the ability to slide and move whereas 1 is locked in. When i make the stringers as the wood will be square do i need to make the bottom in the contour of the gaps where the stringers go?
Resin has no guts and the slightest bit of movment it will break just like a glass bottle and you will have a leak .
The other thing that need checking is the bottom of the boat , find a long straight edge of timber or something and check how flat anf straight the bottom is !!!!
At All Fibreglass we can service your needs for just about any type of fibreglass work you can think off. For information or a quote use the contact us function, if you require an immediate response provide us with your contact number and we will call you back as soon as possible.
Recently I got ahold of another boat for the hardtop and windshield and cut the entire cuddy cabin off of it, the rest of it was rotten so it was scrapped.
Is best to put down a wide glass pad to help stiffen the hull bottom and for the new stringers to be glassed on top of the new glass with a wide pad all the new framing is on new glass so adhession shouldnt be a problem .old inboards have oil and diesel spills and getting glass to stick is a major and its usually from end to end where its been in the bilge sloshing about for years so clean up is the most important thing other than you breathing . For the keel stringer you have mentioned s 50x75, can you recommend any wood for that as or would i just use 3 pieces of marine ply sandwiched?
Would it make sense to prepare the stringers and a couple of bulkheads then get them all setup and sealed, then temp screw them and glass strip tack them all together so i can lift out after then bog etc and place it all on top.
Ive out that the stringers are 18mm and will be using marine ply, what would be the best to seal them with and also i was reading about making sure the wood doesnt touch the fibreglass. The old stringers at the transom was sealed to it which made no sense to me as if water got in it wouldnt have anywhere to go, could i drill a hole big anout to put a tube in and seal around the hole with silicon?
I want to put a underground fuel tank in the middle too, can someone give me some tips and ideas?
When fibreglassing the stringers how many layers do i need and what about the thickness of the layers as i can only find thickness in GSM.


Mine is torn down and has been on hold for a while, gonna get back to it soon when it cools off a bit outside.
Its a old boat so lets go over board a little and you wont ever have to worry about anything for long time to come . As for the top of them, cured resin on both sides of floor plywood (after cutting to fit) then filler along the bulkheads and tabbed at the outer edges and along the stringers (if this is the wrong way somebody chime in so two of us don't do it wrong).
Needs to be ground out gently and glassed properly maybe a small patch but the surface needs to be a 100mm or more all round the hole !!
With glass stringers they will last the life time of the boat and never have to ever do them again !! After looking at your sketch I'd probably be better off putting 4 stringers instead of just the 2 to support the floor. 1 piece of wood would make life easier [nothing in particular just the size wtih the corners rounded so you can glass over easy and not get air bubbles aling the edges > radus about the size of a 5 cent coin . Solid wood is ok and even better with 5mm ply each side solid had a habit of splitting if you hit anything in the water . We take the opportunity to give your hull a good visual inspection during the antifouling process to ensure everything is in good order! After the pics were taken I cut the tops off the stringers to remove all the rotten wood in them.
150x50 , 200x50 , and even 300x50 were the sizes of beams i used on my deck at home just pinned the ends with 100 mm flat headed nail each end !! Plus the surfaces to be glassed over need to be scuffed and ground 99% clean so the new glass will have any kind of a chance of sticking properly and so it will stay and last and not fall off sometime later . Like I said before I'm still in the planning stages of this since putting the project on hold. Like I said I'm open to suggestion on this project and just in the planning stages right now, I've done a little bit of glass work but nothing major like this before. Thanks for your help with this, want to do it right as I can ONCE I'll get a pic of the cuddy in the morning, measurements I've taken say it should fit and I have not cut any on the 'Bird's deck cap yet. If the vessel is stern driven, the leg is thoroughly inspected and cleaned, removing all contaminate from the leg, focusing special attention to the most vulnerable parts of the Stern Drive Leg around the bellows where excessive growth can lead to premature failure of the bellow’s causing sea water to enter the area between the gimbal bearing on the transom and the rear leg bearing which can cause failure and seizure to many related components.
Its a part of the boat gets wet and stays wet vertually forever or untill the floor gets ripped out to replace rotten and wet wood .
After the manufacturers recommended cure time, the vessel is lifted back into the water and is ready for delivery.
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