Location: Danube Delta Building a stern tunnel into an existing flat bottom aluminum boat Hi everyone. The boat as you can see in the pictures has two pontoons attached to the sides to increase stability.
5.In order to lower the draft I will need to choose a smaller diameter propeller (and I will prefer 3 blades as they run better in weed infested waters) what would be the equivalent propeller so I can keep same gear box for a 40cm diameter ? what pitch. Location: seattle Wa USA would a jack shaft and stern drive solve the problem? Location: Danube Delta Stern drives are complicated, expesive and unreliable so they are kind of out of the question. Location: Danube Delta Here is the tunnel with the same proportions given in CDK's sketches. One question is - where should be the water line so the tunnel operates optimally also in reverse?
I can not go wit the rudder lower than the skeg as it will cause problems when hitting a log under water r in the shallows. The boat will go slow most of the time and manoeuvring is very important to me as the canals are narrow and full of surprises. Location: OREGON How about wraping a Cort Nozzle around the prop for protection? Location: Danube Delta Well cort nosels are complicated things and in the weeds they are useless just like jets. Daniel I was pointing you towards the strong upper mounting of the rudder plus the method to make the rudder blade stiff in sideways bending, that you can see in the pics. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. The intended purpose would be shallow river operations AND, retaining the outboard, not changing the lower unit over to jet drive. If you don't keep that footprint small, rowing that thing back up the hole is gonna be brutal!
Give your customers a flat foot place and something to bang their thighs against to keep them in the boat. Location: Colorado When I went seakayaking on Lake Powell, I took along several screw top plastic jars for human waste, but crapping on the ground, then scooping it up and into a jar, some dribbling down the sides, isn't for everyone.
I guess my point is that the sort of person that would go fishing with a drift boat isn't the sort of person that would do the same trip with an SOT.
If you take Customers or Buddy's down river in your drift boat, beach it every so often for those 'breaks' that involve a Fire or a nature call. Location: USA The older I get (64) the less weight and more compact I like my boats. Location: USA Come to think of it, some chaps have use a large drift boat as a base camp for their tubes and toons.


Originally Posted by portacruise The older I get (64) the less weight and more compact I like my boats. I've run the Green from Flaming Gorge Dam down to the confluence with the Colorado and when you've completed the A, B and C sections below the dam, the water gets silted-up enough from eroding sandstone that you have to use the above strategy.
For a number of years, I used to pack fresh water in cleaned-out boxed wine bladders and place them inside heavy duty ziplocks and then lay them in the bottom of the boat, spread fore to aft to keep the boat in trim.
Location: Washington State Sea trial findings Here are some photos of drifter on the water. Location: Colorado Looks great, but the issue I see is that going through large waves you are going to get a lot of water over the transom.
With the weight in the Center, the biggest flat spot, the boat will easily ride on the surface as you guys haul in those smelly fish. Thats the balance that gives your Oars the ability to slide sideways, or skid over to the Reverse current to go back up river to a hole you missed. Location: Washington State I don't envision that this boat would be a good first choice if your only fishing grounds are class II and III rapids, but it is a good choice for all the fishable rivers I'm familiar with. There's ample buoyancy in the ends, as well as enough rocker for nimble handling, but enough beam to keep draft minimal.
I tried having this same post awhile back, and the best reply I could get is that all boats will sink! BoatBucks wrote:The problem with this type of question is it usually turns into a pissing match. I have purchased this boat a few weeks ago and I am planning to modify it a bit to suit my needs.
I have downloaded the pictures you have posted and found particularly interesting the tunnel build for the ex jet powered boat.
You may very well use a traditional lower bearing to connect the blade to the heel, but don't expect it to carry side forces. I don't think it can rain as hard anywhere in the world as it can over on the Coast near LaPush.
One per person could easily be packed aboard a drift boat, then each can venture out to the smaller tributaries. The gambit is to scoop out a pot full of the water, let it sit and the silt will settle out to the bottom in a fairly short time. The further down you get, such as in Deso Canyon, and beyond, it's standard operating procedure except for the tributaries when they are running, or canyon wall weeps, which are clear all the time. They make for great, stability enhancing ballast and come in handy at those camps where you're just too tired to screw with the sediment settling thing. The cop was smiling when he saw my bladders on the back seat of my car, thinking he had me for open container. It doesn't matter what kind of boat you choose to do a river, as long as you have a great time and have bitchin' stories to tell your buddies who stayed home to do the yard work.


We're really quite pleased with the performance, and although any boat with a 76" beam is bound to feel a bit like borrowing Paul Bunyan's boat, rowing is comfortable and pleasant.
You want the Stern high and mostly pointy so the Anchor will hold and the oncoming water will wash by the boat. Because the seating surface is longitudinal as opposed to athwartships, the operator can turn around in the boat to face whichever way makes the most sense for conditions.
The philosophical grandfather of the WSD is the Rapid Robert, dozens of which are out there right now drifting rivers, fishing in lakes and crabbing on the bay. When I pulled the floor of the Duckworth Red Dot I found two broken welds after 450 hours of whitewater running. The arm-chair engineers can talk all they want about design and structure but that boat has been proven.
If you can't find the thread, I'll see if I can stir my sediments; the sketch should be there somewhere! My question is how would this system work with a 21" prop and a skeg for protection but without the closed ring as this will cause problems when going through weeds. Even better to omit the lower bearing altogether, and just let the aft part of the heel slip under the bottom of the rudder. I suggested that he crack them open and have a whiff to verify that he was busting me for Chardonnay, or Merlot.
Also, the fact that the bulk of the bottom is flat eliminates the vulnerability of a v-bottomed boat when going over a submerged log or other river obstacle.
Wonderful looking stuff, you should be proud of what you do and how you do it, and a damned good guy to meet on the river too. The heel profile forward of the prop should be rectangular (vertical) with proportions ~60 x 10, with corners VERY well rounded!
I told him in was in the cataraft being towed by the pickup that just went by us while we were on the side of the road.
Hell, theres lots of Hewes out there with thousands of lake hours, does that make them the toughest? The 700+ hours on that boat can't be compared to most jet boats, those are all hard river miles in all flows and conditions. With that said, I will add, there is no way in hell I could ever put that kind of hours on a hull.
The UHMW probably works fine for recreational use, maybe will last you years if put on properly.



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