April 27, 2012Welcome back to this week’s How To – where I made a Cardboard DIY Pirate Ship for the children! I like to layer my paper in different directions – you know how when you tear newspaper it one direction it tears really is easily, but not in the other? 7) Let dry again and add detail – I painted on some skull and cross bones and anchors. I’ve been dying to see this since the teaser (prior to covering in paper mache) and it is amazing! What a cute little pirate ship…my boys would have so much fun playing with one like that! After all the amazing things you’ve posted to Creative Juice Thursday over the past year, I just had to feature you {and much more in the future too} at the new site. At this point, i am trying to identify shipyards that build wooden boats (all over the world) but it is rather difficult (i guess mainly cause these shipyards work in a more old fashion model so they don't use internet for their promotion). Location: Washington You might want to try posting this query on Wooden Boat Forum. Originally Posted by alexandros As far as i understood your company builds boats and i assume you are a naval architect. MacLear & Harris, Yacht Designers » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Do you need Boat Builders?
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I had a telephone conversation with Ann, Gerard mother, yesterday and found out that he were not doing so good at folding a paper boat. I used some nail scissors (that I have especially for crafting) – as they have a nice round curve. The deck is quite fragile and is the part that probably benefits the most from the paper mache. Well, I believe that if you criss cross your paper layers when paper maching, you get a stronger final construction. For example i know Riva used to make wooden boats (now though are plastic if i am not wrong).
A 25 m wooden fishing boat is not such a 'rara avis', although quickly dissapearing from european waters.
Then glue all the discs together with strong (!) glue and finally glue in place on the boat. I reckon it would be a really good pinata for a birthday party if it was built a bit bigger with a weakened section – what do you think?


ClarkThe type chosen as being the easiest for the amateur to build is that known as the "square sider," as the lines are to a large extent straight with few sharp turns, thus making the easiest possible boat to build. See what you can find at home and amend our DIY Pirate Ship How to, to suite what you have at home! Near the middle I snipped the fabric, threaded through some string and with that tied the sail to the mast! I decided to help them out with an instructional video and some guidelines on a piece of paper. As will be seen from the illustration, the lines of the top sides and of the bottom are all straight, meeting at a more or less sharp corner.
Best to cut your two side panels and the back, tape it all together and then to cut your base and desk to fit your boat.
The evolution to new markets, mainly going from commercial to pleasure, is the main solution. While at first sight it might seem as though this corner were a disfigurement, it proves not to be so in the actual boat, the lines being a close approximation to those of a round bottomed boat similiar to the popular "knock about," but as this boat is intended for rough all around weather it was thought advisable to shorten the overhangs to make her easier in a sea way.The boat as laid out will be found very easy to build, and at the same time very strong, and a good heavy weather boat. Anyhow, there are markets regarding commercial fishing boats which wood has lost here almost without fighting; I'm talking about the small planning units up to 10 m length (more or less), which are actually built up in GRP or aluminium, but could also be done in wooden boards-epoxy as well. The latter is a very important consideration, as the beams are used to brace against, and it would be almost impossible to do any boat building without them. A wooden floor is also disirable to which braces and blocking may be nailed.In order to make patterns, or moulds as they are termed, of the several parts, it will be necessary to reproduce a part of the lines full size on a smooth floor.
If this is not available a temporary one of boards may be laid, one about four feet wide, and the length of the boat being needed. If desired, in place of this floor a piece of drawing paper may be laid down on any available floor, and removed after the work is done. The base line is struck in with a chalk line and the cross sections laid off three feet apart, being sure to make them square with the L.
It may be found that a line exactly through the points would not be fair on account of the unavoidable error in scaling from a small drawing, and laying off again, with a little judgment, a fair line can be struck.For running curved lines a battern or staff about 1 1-4 in. In the sheer plan the only lines necessary are the deck line, the rabbet, and the top and bottom of the keel. Line 1 gives the height of the top of each section above the base line, which is 18" below the waterline. Line 3 gives the height of the before mentioned knuckle, or line of jointure of the two straight lines composing each section and line 4 shows the half breadths of the same points.
Line 4 and 5 gives the height and half breadths of the rabbet, or the line where the outer surface of the plank joins the keel.The sheer plan and the half breath should be laid out as shown in Fig.


The only lines required are the sheer, the knuckle line and the rabbet line, the dimensions of the overhangs are shown additionally in Fig. 3 are obtained by coupling the other two plans, for instance, on section 1 the height and half breath of the sheer point are shown at a and b which height and half breadth are used to locate the point in Fig. The points c and d show the height and half breadth of the knuckle on the same frame, which dimensions are used to locate the point n in Fig. The three points m, n, o thus gotten are connected by straight line to complete the outline of the frame.The frames are all to be drawn in the same manner, and used later as patterns to which to fit the moulds or forms upon which the boat is built. The line of the keel is drawn in 1-2 inch below the rabbet, and the line of the top of the keel so drawn as to make the keel 2" thick. The lines as laid out so far are drawn to the outside of the plank, whereas the moulds which are to be made and used to set up the boat must be made to fit the inside of the plank, as the latter are to be bent around them. It will thus be necessary to draw inside of each cross section or mould already drawn, another one smaller by the thickness of the plank and deck as shown in Fig. This thickness is 3-4" and the new section is formed by drawing the new lines inside the old ones at a distance of 3-4". It is also desirable to lay in the keel for convenience in trimming the moulds to fit over the keel when set up.The bottom of the keel is 1-2" below the rabbet and the keel is 2" thick.
The top side of the keel projects over on to the plank 1-2" to form a back rabbet and give fastening for the plank. The widths across the top also give the widths of the keel at each point, which makes it easy to lay off the keel outline.The laying off on the floor may seem rather tedious but it is the easiest in the end, and also makes a pattern upon which the several parts may be laid to test their fairness.
Following the lines laid on the floor, a wooden pattern is to be made out of stock about 1-2" thick to fit the line of the bottom of the keel. It should run the whole length of the keel and stem, and at the forward end should follow the forward side of stem, and at the stern a piece should be fastened on showing the angle of the sternboard. The positions of the cross sections are marked on this mould and also the position of the centreboard slot.
This mould is very important as it fixes the shape of the boat and must be accurately laid out.So much depends upon the shape of the keel, that hits must be correct. A 2" spruce plank about 10" wide is set up on edges about 15" from the floor, and strongiy braced in position.
Then using the mould just made as a pattern, the plank is cut to fit it and the ends built up with other pieces of plank and the whole trimmed out until the mould rests evenly on it from stern to the round of the bow.



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