Before starting the actual construction project, we recommend you to plan everything, as to save money and to keep the costs under control. It is essential to invest in high quality materials, that are also water-resistant, such as pressure-treated lumber. In order to add character to the media center project, we recommend you to fit 1×2 trims to the top of the hutch, as described in the diagram.
Smart Tip: Apply several coats of stain or paint to the wooden components, if you want to protect them from decay and to enhance the look of the corner media center plans. Thank you for reading our project about entertainment center hutch plans and we recommend you to check out the rest of the projects.
Looking back, I can’t believe we actually built this with the tools we had at the time.
We posted our project on ana-white's brag website and were shocked at the positive response.
At the time, I screwed the bottom piece in from the side, but now that I have a Kreg Jig, I would screw pocket holes in from the bottom (outside of view).
We talked about adding can down lights at the top cubby to add that wow factor, but decided it would be a lot of work to wire it and the cubby is fairly small and the light would cast a shadow on any larger decoration we placed in that cubby.
After the frame was built and the interior partition pieces were installed, I cut the beadboard with a circular saw (since the edges don’t have to be perfectly straight or smooth) and set it aside for the painting. The center top piece was built to fit our satellite, DVD player, media player, gaming console, etc. It is a good idea to make sure the boxes are square when you nail on the face frames and backing.
A big advantage to this entertainment center is the ability to break down into four different pieces to get it to fit in your house and the ability to move it. The next step was pretty hard to do with just me and my wife, so I built a stand at 33 inches with 2x4s to hold the center top piece in pace while I screwed it together.
As you can see from the picture below, I installed the slides at the bottom end of the face frame and made sure it was flush with the front. After I cut all the doors and drawer fronts, I actually borrowed a router from a friend at work. After everything assembled in place in our garage, we went back over it with paint to touch everything up. Note: We did not put the beadboard in the back behind the TV because we felt it would be too much black. If you want to learn how to build a media center hutch out of wood, we recommend you to pay attention to the instructions described in the article and to check out the related projects. Cut the components at the right size by using a circular saw and smooth the cut edges with a sand block.
Don’t forget to share our projects with your friends and LIKE us, by using the social media widgets. Since then, we have inherited a lot of high quality tools from TJ’s mom, but we definitely took the hard route. We actually used the 1x12 pine for the sides, but looking back, I would recommend using the plywood because it is much straighter and stronger than the pine. However, a.mcdaniel on Ana White’s website did this very effectively and it looks great!


Kristen really liked the look of square drawers, so we adjusted the doors to create a square drawer.
On all the entertainment centers we looked at, we noticed the equipment was located on the bottom piece. A little bit later we built an entertainment center for our neighbor and used the Kreg Jig to join the face frame together and it worked out much better. We used the cheaper pine, but if you want face frames that are harder, knot-free and straighter, I would recommend the select pine (about double the cost, but it is a better product). I put on the face frames before I painted the boxes, but looking back it may be easier to paint them separate and then assemble the face frames and back.
You can check this by measuring diagonally from corner to corner or placing the pieces on a perfectly level surface and checking the plumb and level with a level. After the pieces are all built, we found a flat level spot on the ground to assemble them as a dry-fit before we moved it in the house. I also predrilled pilot holes at the top of the bookcases so they would be ready for quick screwing.
The crown is fairly simple because it butts into the top center piece from the bookcases and it goes around the top center piece. I measured the drawers in my kitchen and looked at how they were attached and what sizes were available as far as drawer slides.
I added a few filler pieces in the back to fill in the gap between the slides and the vertical wood pieces. We also bought the hinges so I could mount the hinges to the box and hold up the doors to make sure they lined up perfectly.
These were too big for the 1x12 (the largest piece available at Home Depot), so I bought the expensive glued together pieces. We then assembled it in the final resting location with the same steps mentioned in number 7. There are many storage projects featured on our site, so don’t be afraid to browse through the rest of the woodworking plans. In addition, we recommend you to invest in high-quality materials, such as pine, redwood or cedar, as they have a nice finish and are highly durable, especially in a humid environment.
Smooth the edges with fine-grit sandpaper and secure the trims to the frame of the hutch by using finishing nails. Add glue to the joints and insert finishing nails through the structure, in order to get rigid joints. Place the hutch to the media console and secure it into place by driving nails and adding glue to the joints. We actually only had a cheap circular saw, table saw (borrowed from my mom), and miter saw. You could also cut the top piece at 18 inches and use a Kreg Jig or finish nails to secure it in place.
The shoe of the saw was not locked, so I had to hold the saw as perpendicular as possible when I made the cuts here.
This is great for adults, but our young kids are constantly playing with anything in reach. We simply measured the length of the box and cut the stiles and rails to the dimensions required.


We used a coat of oil based primer tinted as dark as possible and then two coats of high quality oil based paint. You could also use a liquid nail type adhesive to glue the backing on, but it would still need a few nails to hold it in place while it dries.
The face frame and beadboard backing will create the lateral strength for the furniture and can be adjusted at this point with a little pressure during the assembly. We lined up the backs of the bookcases with the center bottom piece and then clamped them together while we make minor adjustments.
We both grabbed an end and hoisted the center top piece into place and up on top of the temporary stand. The size of the doors may vary slightly depending on the layout of the hinges, so make sure you purchase your hinges before you cut the doors. Looking back at this, I may have gone with some more expensive select pine or poplar wood and glued them together to get the width because the wood I used has some knots and bows in it. Luckily, Mother's Day was a few weeks away and it was the perfect excuse to buy the decorations. Make sure the corners are square and add glue to the joints to enhance the bond of the structure. We borrowed the nail compressor and nail guns from a neighbor, a broken jig saw from a neighbor and a router from a co-worker. After it was lined up, I drilled in some pilot holes with a countersink drill bit from the center bottom piece to the side bookcases. I grabbed some clamps and clamped it together and made some minor adjustments until it was ready to screw in.
There will be a little bit of a gap from the bookcases to the center bottom piece because it has to be able to be unassembled and reassembled, but it can be done pretty tight. Unless you want the shelves to be movable, then you can use the shelf hole guide from Kreg Jig.
We checked the dimensions of the TV (with the stand) online and built it so it would have about 3” of extra space on the sides and top. I decided to paint these before I nailed them on and then touch them up after, but it is up to you. I drew a guide line at the bottom of each shelf with a building square or speed square to make sure I was installing the shelves completely level (perpendicular to the sides). We have since bought a wall mount for our TV and are grateful we have a few inches on each side to maneuver the TV in and out.
The height of our equipment shelf is pretty tight, so I would recommend making adjustments based on your equipment.
So we went and looked at entertainment centers I was interested in and they were $2,500 or more. I knew I wanted the TV higher up than most entertainment centers to keep those tiny little hands from reaching my expensive TV. I also wanted the satellite receivers and DVD player out of reach and up on the top center piece.



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