The only downfall is that they weigh slightly more than a comparable lipo, but it seems like you might need the weight up front anyway. Well despite getting older I still feel like a kid sometimes and I have always liked RC toys.
Well there are some crazy people still around and we are starting our boatbuiding adventure ( off course we have other economic resources) and this is our brand new workshop and as every new shop there still some cleanliness and spare room. These new brushless motors got me back into RC boating, the gas boats are so loud and obnoxious. I don't know why my camera makes the carbon fiber look so crappy, in real life it looks slick. The drives I used are made by Graupner and from my research the only ones that fit this hull scale wise. Once I pull the lower units off and strip the black paint down to bare aluminum and polish them they will look more like the Merc drives. But when the scale outdrives came in I had to switch, they were too cool looking not to use.
And you're right, this brushless thing has brought me back to RC, I was so sick of the gas engines. Hello O reely, first, we are building the model wich will be our first true scale this will not be a center console it will be an express, but afterwards we will build a center console version top pieces, but first we will have to check the compatibility with the console and the placement of the motor, we will do our best to make an rc center console version but it might look strange if the placement of the console is not scale like.
I looked at the link you sent, and below your proposed power unit, there where some lowe units without engine that looked more strong maybe with one of those and some giant brushless it could be done electric but I am not sure.
I would really like to do it that way ( electric ) because then it would look more real like. I don't recall if I mentioned it to you or not but If you haven't started the hull mold yet, you might want to consider doing so. Also, I've been using Nord Composites RM2000 tooling resin on a few recent projects and thought you might want to look into it.
As for infusion, I think once you start working with it you'll find that it's not as big a mystery as it seems. Yes, we plan on correcting those minor surface defects that appeared after everything was close to perfect it happened during the time we spent making the top cap male plug and we are goning to correct it in the plug before making the mould.
Nice rod holders with no screws and nice cleats and fuelling hardware definitely will have a better look if surrounded by nice teak work.


Not really, the reason being that we are fullfilling our needs for tools when we have the need or before if we can foresee the need and often this imply lots of wait time for some things ( or materials ) to arrive. The problem being that we are not only building the boat but setting up the workshop as well. This item will be sent through the Global Shipping Programme and includes international tracking.
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But this hull is thick and solid, I'm sure it doesn't even need the stringers since there will be no engine to mount. I will start a thread about this RC project soon it wont have outboards but it will run as such. I just wanted an 8 channel because I knew I was doing the scale fuselage so I wanted the extra two channels for the lights and landing gear. Plus I got them slightly used from someone on the RC boat forum at less than half of what they cost new.
At full throttle these huge motors will probably suck the batteries down in 5 minutes or less. I've done RC cars in the past and still have planes and helicopters, but I never did try the boat thing and always wanted to. It's distributed by NidaCore here in the US but I'm sure one of your suppliers could get it. I find good teak work very appealing but if it's not maintained, it looks worse than badly maintained gelcoat. By clicking Confirm bid you commit to buy this item from the seller if you are the winning bidder.
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The drives are made by Graupner which is a German company and the batteries and speed controlers come from Hobby King. The gearing in the outdrives is 1:1 but because of the grease packed in there is some resistance, that combined with the drag will slow the boat a little. I am using lithium polymer (LiPo) batteries which is the norm for brushless motors, especially motors this size. I like to start the mold as soon as I can after the plug is finished to reduce any exposure to these problems. It's a zero shrink filled resin that allows you to build out the mold quickly and without any shrinkage problems associated with conventional tooling resin. If your boat were for sale here in South Florida, there are people who would absolutely love it and others that would hate it. If you reside in an EU member state besides UK, import VAT on this purchase is not recoverable. The surface drives above would have likely pushed the boat to 60+ MPH as there is no drag or resistance. But this not a race build, its more for playing around in the ICW and the canal behind my house so I will only be doing short bursts of full throttle. You should aim to sand the mold surface as little as possible for fear of opening up porosity in the tooling gel. It allows you to get through the process in a short amount of time and builds you confidence in the technique.
I have a plan to use them on another project down the road for an all out speed boat, just to see how fast I can go.
I try not to go any coarser than 600 grit when dressing mold surfaces (although sometimes it's necessary to go to 400 or even more).
I'm going to convert my gas RC boat to electric, one huge motor and one of these surface drives.
I am wiring the boat so I can add a 2nd battery to each motor (4 batteries total) for extended run time.



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