Shit with a roller trailer you could probably launch without getting the axle wet depending on what kind of boat you have. There are basic engineering standards and specifications for boat ramps (grade,depth,length). Public ramp at the coast, so there should have been some involvement from CAMA (for better or worse).
You may try someone like these guys for a repair - note I have no connection to them and found them on the internet. I haven't looked at this stuff in a while, but last time I did, requirements for coastal ramps were 2 - 12'x20' concrete slabs, 1 pushed as far out as possible at low tide, the 2nd butted up to the higher end of the 1st. Simply the ramp does not extend back far enough and what I found below is what one guy came up with when using a ramp as you describe. If I had a bunk trailer the way the local ramp is combined with the 7' swings, the only times I could launch would be about an hr before and an hr after high tide.
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This ramp design uses precast unreinforced pavers over a crushed stone bed that gradually slopes to the waterline and pavers on a pressure-treated wooden tray that runs into the water.


Whether you're researching a new boat, or are a seasoned Captain, you'll find The Hull Truth Boating & Fishing Message Forum contains a wealth of information from Boaters and Sportfishermen around the world. I have a 22' Whaler on a bunk and it is very limiting what ramp I use as I almost have to float it on and off.
Even with rollers at the very base of the ramp near water level you likely couldn't get the boat off without the stern dropping and digging in because of the angle. He made long shallow grade wedges that he bolted to the bottom of his trailer I beams just ahead of the tires.
I bought wet-cast pavers 2' by 3', 2" thick that have a nonslip surface cast into them, rather than dry-cast pavers that are not durable. I will need to process all this and then contact others on the island to see if our efforts can be coordinated.
He made them tall enough at the back end such that the bottom was a few inches below the hub of the wheel behind it. It was so heavy I assembled in on skids near the water line at low tide and slid it into the water once the tide rose. The idea is that he can back the trailer right off those short ramps and let those wedges come down on the end of ramp.


As long as you understand the proper use of one and the boat manufacturer does not prohibit its use, they are fine. A rim of pressure-treated wood strips contains the pavers on the tray, and cross-cleats underneath hold the boards together and keep the tray from sliding away from the shoreline. Then after floating the boat off or back on, he could drag the trailer back up the ramp on the wedges, and when the tires finally came to the edge of ramp, since the mid point of wheel is above ramp edge, little effort was needed for the tire to hop over the edge and incurred no damage.
I have the normal safety chain, transom straps and an extra chain and shackle for the bow hold down. The LI Sound area both the LI side and the Conn side are known for wide tidal swings, you see 80% rollers here for that reason.



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