Additionally, as you’ll see in the pictures, I have cut a piece of plywood to form the front of the cupboard space and I thought I was as well to fibreglass the bottom of this in place too, while I had the gear out. These tacking strips are left to cure and then it’s simply a case of fibreglassing the whole lot.
Well, this is going to be one of the bigger parts of the project, but hopefully the boat will transform into something resembling a boat again after this. In an ideal world, the old floor would have made a perfect template to simply draw around and cut for the perfect fit.
You may also notice that the transom piece appears to be squint in some of these photos but fear not. With the plywood cut it was simply a case of clamping it in place and then adding fibreglass to cover. The wedges give the dash an extra link to the topside of the boat, giving it a bit more strength in case anyone is too lively with the steering wheel.
This has been a long time in the waiting, but I’m finally ready to start this project properly. Using the first plywood shape as a template, I cut another leaving me with two 18mm thick pieces of plywood. The picture shows it to this stage – the metal box section was put on for weight but was abandoned in favour of screws. Once set, a rough sand on the outside to remove surplus resin was all that was needed before fibreglassing the entire transom. Location: Australia Some photos of the hull cleaned up and ready for the stringers. Also the photo of the slit where the previous person almost cuts through actually held water in the boat for over 24hrs and only wept but ill still glass over it and put a little matting on it. I have made custom sub boxes for a friends car a bit ago and helped a friend make a fiber box so have a fairly good understanding about glassing and how it goes. Im not doing any glassing till probably end of next week and we have 2 days nextweek of 30+c so it should dryout nicely.
When i put a long straight edge under the boat and the top is seems to look sort of ok, but the traider skids seem to be about 40mm away from touching it?
I will clean up around the hole as you mentioned about 100mm and glass a new strip over it.
I will take some pick of it when i get home with the straight edge on it so you can give your opinion too. Quick look and see loads of strands of glass that never been rolled down when the boat was sprayed with a chopper gun . In your case for sticking things in and coving the corners TALC and AEROSILL mix is completely ok .
The consistancy is best when you can turn the container on its side and it just starts to move but dosent slump or try to runout of the container !! After you make the bog let it sit for a couple of hours before you use it just the make sure both ingreadiance are 100% saturated with resin you will notice its stiffer than when you first mixed it When you put a blob on the surface and then remove it and the surface should have a damp or wet looking patch where the resin is on the surface . After you have cut and fitted the stringers and its ready to be stuck in make sure you have lots bracing to hold them secure in place lift the stringer out and brush a coat of catalysed resin all over the wood and let it soak in!! When its hardened a second coat specially the ends and the edges that were cut and shaped . Ok i think i got what you was saying and when get home will digest it and repeat back for your confirmation.
I will try a chisel out the old filler over the weekend and also need to go over all the hull with the grinder to prep it for the new glass to bond.
Im hoping to have this done for xmas, i have all the wood and glass now so just the case of getting it all put together. I do have a 200 yammy to go on the back too, the boat was recommended for a 180hp but the old transom was 15mm and imm replacing with a 18mm so 200 should be fine.


Cut the timber for the stringers and by then i will have a revised layup for you stringer system . Location: East of Atlanta Ga Tunnels, I have a question (still on my learning curve here) the bog recipe you mentioned, I understand the 2 to1 mix of talc and aerosill, then mix the resin in and let it sit in a covered container, hardener is mixed in just as you are about to use it correct ? Originally Posted by wooky30014 Tunnels, I have a question (still on my learning curve here) the bog recipe you mentioned, I understand the 2 to1 mix of talc and aerosill, then mix the resin in and let it sit in a covered container, hardener is mixed in just as you are about to use it correct ?
Use a smaller conainer big baked bean tin or simular to measure the talc and aerosill into the resin as you are slowly stirring with the paint stirrer !! Its easyer to use some of the premix you just made in another plastic container then add the catalyst and t thoroughly mix ,you will notice it changes color slightly so all needs to be the same colour.
I was thinking about the tank of making a cut out in the keel stringer to leave about 70mm thick and about 1.2m long so i can make a box shape in the floor for the tank to fit in, that way the floor is supporting the tank and not the stringers and i can also access it if any problems. The hull wall is 6mm thick and i will put a 18mm ply + 15mm ply, im guessing that will be more than enough for the motor. I still need a little info for the joining of stringers as i read that scarf joints at crap and a think of the past and now a sister joint is better? Under the stringers where they were and the new ones will be placed they sat inside the strakes !!
Strakes are a weak part of any hull bottom and a place that has 3 corners on each strake ,, they bend and work and always get cracks and the glass layers separate and the first place you go looking if the boat has a leak !! I have drawn the extra layers of glass using double bias glass as 100% of the strands will work for you right to the line where it finishs , 200mm each side of the stringers both sides full length , No woven roving should not be used !! Like i said before this post ,coat all the wood with resin and when it hard second coat again specially any end grain . Dont make the resin go hard to quickly as its needs to soak in and thats what the glass will stick to !!
The glass panels between the strakes and the keel are the ones that take all the pounding and stress when the boat is going .
I hope you took note of the transom thickness i recomeneded and it should have knees down onto the stringers !! The bigger boats we have we always glass in extra glass then fill with high density foam and glass over and then carry on with the rest of the hull .
Location: East of Atlanta Ga Tunnels, the bog recipe makes perfect sense now, I knew about the adding a little talc and aerosil at a time and yes absolutely a plastic container. On my boat it looks like I'll have to put a second set of stringers on the outer strakes and a keel board (didn't have them there before nor a keel board).
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Will it go the distance or is it going to give out as the engine is pushing you through the water. There could be problems there waiting for the worse possible moment to show their ugly head. The fibreglass is as important as the electricals and mechanicals yet it is generally forgotten. After the inspection you will receive a written report giving an assessment of your fibreglass and any necessary actions that may need to be taken. The owner agrees that this Safety Check is to be used as a guide only and agrees to rely on its own enquiries and on the skill and competence of the Provider in providing this service.
It looks to be in fairly good condition, however quite a bit of the gelcoat has cracked and I think this might have to do with the excessive flex in the fibreglass. Cheers A couple of timber stringers glassed over completely could do wonders and just behinh the seat a half a ring frame put in after stringers are done . Sailfish powercats were top-five aluminium fishing boats at Australia’s Greatest Boats three years running.
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No matter how experienced a boatsman you are, sometimes accidents on the water are unavoidable. Apart from their expertise when it comes to repairs, Rob and Tony also provide expert boat custom refits and modification services. With over 60 years of combined experience, Tony and Rob are experts in the art of custom boat refits and modifications and can also build bait tanks, fibreglass hard tops and gun racks. They also custom make fibreglass wave breakers for Haines Hunter 17R and 17L, high and low. What would be the leniency for the hook or rocker and what problems does this cause later if its too bad? Dont mix the resin so it goes hard quickly beause you are defeating the object if wanting it to soak in to the wood !!. The resin coats are to seal and help preserve the wood so it will last for long time AND give a good bonding surface for the glass and bog to stick to as you can see from the old bog thats still there its was a sad atempt at sticking the wood down . Under the floor could be filling up with water and you wouldn't even know until it was too late. All observations, assessments and recommendations relate specifically to the time of inspection. Please confirm listing details including price and specifications directly with the seller.
If your vessel needs some attention, speak to the experts at A1 Custom Fibreglass in Newcastle.
With years of experience in the industry, they can modify your vessel requirements and your budget perfectly.
To get that amount of bog id use a plascit bag and partly fill with the catalsed bog and use it like a icing bag the cake decoraters use and pip the bog in a even and consistant thickness so it ooozes out from under the wood all the way along both sides then use that and more bog to cove the corner bothsides from end to end . With smaller boats when they sit on the trailer the rollers or bunks are where the strakes are most times ! Just imagine how disasterous it would be if it broke and you lost the motor into the deep?! But if the transom tears off or the hull starts leaking you wont be floating for very long. Robert Brown and Tony Smith are passionate about boats and have the knowledge and the experience to quickly assess and correct any damage to your vessel. Coving and being able to roll you glass into a radused corner add a lot of strength to what you are doing . If you not taking the stringers to there max height to lay the floors onto its ok but remember you have to support and hold the floor up one way or another !. A shock load is like a really hard slap one when the boat jumps and spray goes out the side a long way . After the pics were taken I cut the tops off the stringers to remove all the rotten wood in them.
Its the type of foam you use and the shape you could make before you glass over it that will give strength and not add a lot odf weight !! Whether it is a cosmetic problem or major structural issue, Rob and Tony from A1 Custom Fibreglass can provide affordable and effective repair services.
Like I said before I'm still in the planning stages of this since putting the project on hold. I was right in one way I suppose, it was a quick repair; the pop I heard was a big ball of car filler going through the dash and falling to the floor below.



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