Pros and cons with bread and butter model boat building method a€“ aka laminated hull construction a€“ it's a quick and easy model boat hull building method suitable for static and RC scale model boats. Bread and butter model boat construction is where the bread symbolizes the lumber and the glue is the butter in a laminated stack. This method isn't for everyone or every project, but sometimes it may get unfairly overlooked.
A sailing yacht hull will always come out heavy when built Bread and Butter compared to fiberglass or strip planked. The Bread and Butter method is more economical than carving from a solid block.Bread and Butter is suitable for larger boat models that would be impractical to carve from a solid piece. Here are three different methods to build a bread and butter model boat.First, if you are not yet familiar with ship plans, follow the link. As seen on the ship plans, buttocks are the lines representing vertical slices parallel to the shipa€™s center-line.The centerline will be the reference line.
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Or click on the Google, My Yahoo!, My MSN, or Bloglnes button if you keep a personalized home page there. Apr 03, 2015Bertram 38 Convertible - inspired "Dirty Deeds"Right after finishing up my previous vessel Berrinche, I embarked in this project in preparation to this boating season.
In preparing the RC boat hull for the next step, you can now carefully remove the structure from the building board.
Also, we're done with the hull alignment template that was placed under the wax paper to guide component placement and alignment.
After you remove the hull frame from the building board, remove any wax paper remnants if any. Place the hull frame on top and position the raised part of the transom inbetween the "legs" of the deck. Trim away the area of the keel where the propeller will pass through it, thus creating a tunnel for ditto.
Now peel away the template (make sure all bulkhead locations are transferred first!) and place it on a flat surface with the attached doubler facing down. Propeller shaft tunnel finished - note faint pencil marks for bulkhead #4 just to the left of the doublers. Transom and keel transition - note how the keel is lined up to the center line of the transom and flush at the rear.
A square corner of a balsa sheet is held against the hull at each station and the edge of chine shelf and keel is marked on the balsa.
Lay the sheet down on your cutting surface and lay a straight-edge between the two tick marks and cut with a razor blade or X-acto knife.
Now the hull frame is ready for sanding to smooth out the shape some and to give the skin more edge to hold onto. The actual dimensions are not important but this hull measured approximately 700mm long by 140mm wide and 100mm deep.
These were left wider than the hull base and then trimmed to match the base profile once the glue had dried. At the stern of the boat a raised section was glued in place to give clearance for the propellers.
As with the bulkheads the parts were glued in place wider than base and then cut to match the base profile. The images above show the sides and rear of the boat glued in place and the front still open. To form the bow, one side was glued in place first and then this was trimmed to match the base profile. The method seems to have fallen out of favor for some reason.To my knowledge there are no kits that are based on this hull construction, so consider this article aimed scratch building, as an alternative to the more common plank-on-bulkhead method.
Shaping the laminates for the B&B is a lot quicker and less precise.Bread and cutter is a faster building method measured from cutting out the laminate pieces to having a sanded smooth hull.


It is based on the lumber being glued up in a horizontal fashion resulting in the boards laying parallel with the waterline.The design waterline (DWL) is commonly used as the reference plane.
In the same manner as described previously: draw new buttock lines parallel to the centerline spaced apart a distance equal to your lumber thickness and plot them on the shear plan or directly on your lumber etc. Here you'll see the latest updates and additions to the site with the most recent addition first. However, if your building board is really dark, or just ugly, you can lay the template upside down under a fresh sheet of wax paper. Give the deck side of the structure a light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper backed with a flat sanding block. However, when it comes to installing a propeller shaft most of those builders would be scratching their heads trying to get a propeller shaft tunnel aligned correctly. Do as follows:On the keel, we need to stay clear of the bulkhead #4 location, so make sure the keel is well marked in that area.
Prop up either extreme of the keel with scraps of material until level and clamp or place weights on top.
The purpose is to provide a temporary landing and support for the next step in fitting the lower triangular parts of the bulkheads.When I built the prototype it took me a while to figure this out, so they may be missing in some of the pictures below. Just like when the deck was attached, keeping the keel perpendicular and centered is more important than locating front to back. With the other hand, with a sharp pencil, mark the edge where the keel and chine shelf intersect (see picture below). You can save a little time by using the first triangle at each station as a template for the opposite side. However, it is entirely possible to plank a B&B hull in a similar manner as a plank-on-frame or plank-on-bulkhead model boat if you are so inclined. Youa€™ll spend infinitely less time waiting for glue to dry.Bread and Butter caters to a lower skill level than a planked hull. To get started, you need a ship plan of the boat you are building, with cross sections.The shear and waterline plans will be used for profile and deck outline.
In the body plan, draw new waterlines parallel to the DWL at a distance equal to the lumber thickness you are using.
Follow the same idea as described before.Building a B&B hull on the buttocks has a few advantages.
Without a well-made hull, however, all the delicate details in the world will not make a good model. Even if the wax paper looks clean and comes right off, I'd opt to replace it for the next step. It will provide a light, neutral background when you build that makes it easier to spot things that are out of the norm or things you drop or spill.
Go easy as the only purpose is to take down any obvious high spots.Put the hull frame aside while we focus on the two deck halves (item "B" on the plans).
Don't expect them all to line up perfectly, but it will give you a good idea of how close to ideal you are at this point.Also check and make sure the frame is making contact with the deck along the deck stringers, transom, bulkheads and the stem piece. It would require a jig, extra long drill and some luck to get it right.We're going to take much of the tool requirements out of it and stop relying on luck for success, here is how.
Next, lay the keel (template down) on a flat surface and glue one doubler to the back side of the keel just ahead of the #4 bulkhead location and line it up parallell with the bottom of the keel.If you're off by a few millimeters from either that's fine.
Try hard not to cut into the doubler.The prototype used a 4mm outer diameter stuffing tube, so that's the size marked on the drawing and template. Glue the second doubler in place and weigh or clamp to the assembly.Same rules apply as far as location - stay clear of bulkhead #4 location etc. The easiest and best way to locate the keel front to back is to sand the front-most part of the chine shelf flush to the angle of the stem piece.
On this model the back was swept forward as shown but it could be made vertical for simplicity, none of the angles were critical.
Sawing, carving and sanding is a lot more muscle than skill compared to shaping frames and fitting planks.


If you decide to go this route, investigate ahead of time what you may have to make from scratch.
This method will typically require more layers than building it on the waterlines since most hulls are wider than they are tall. Whether the hobbyist seeks to make a display, floating or even remote-control model boat, the hull is literally the foundation on which the rest of the model must be built. Align them at the pinnacle of the stem and check alignment at the rear edge where they join. If care has been taken so far in cutting out the parts and aligning, nothing should be too far out of alignment.When things look good place drops of thin CA along stem piece, bulkheads and deck stringers. Try not to have the doubler extend passed the bottom of the keel, it's better if you err on the other side.
This way you'll have an edge that should correspond with the front-most edge on the keel.As you can see on the picture below, I didn't do it this way, but it would have made things a little easier.
I like to work from the center and towards each end so it adds some well needed stability to the keel. Much of the muscle can be overcome by using power tools like angle grinders and power drills with drum sanding and flap disc attachments.
The only way this will work is if your lumber thickness corresponds to the distance between the buttocks lines or waterlines a€“ in most cases there is no match. There are many different ways of constructing model boat hulls, but one of the simplest and most versatile is the laminated, or "bread and butter" technique, so called because of the way in which the three-dimensional hull is built up out of layers of flat boards. At this point, place a piece of tape over the joint to temporarily hold them together and flip the deck over with the tape facing down. Instead I eye-balled it in by looking at the profile and having the curved part of the keel tangent the angle of the stem. It is essential for the lamination process to be successful.Building a bread and butter hull using the waterline method may seem more intuitive and will probably require fewer layers. About us Use of this site constitutes acceptance of the Terms of use, Cookie policy, and Privacy policy of eHow. Pin or weigh the deck down on the building board.Mark the bulkhead locations across the same way as you did on the chine shelf. The boards that make up the hull will be sandwiched vertically and stacked from left to right (or right to left), with their long axis matching the long axis of the completed hull. These two boards will form the centre of the hull of your model hull, with the rest of the hull being built out from them via the application of more boards. This is part two where the hull frame is finished and getting ready for planking.Continue reading "Build an RC Boat Hull - Part Two"Aug 31, 2012RC Model Boats - An Introduction to Building Your OwnLearn to build RC model boats the easy and inexpensive way. These projects are perfect for beginners and those looking for a cheap, easy, simple and fast build.Continue reading "RC Model Boats - An Introduction to Building Your Own"Aug 31, 2012Build an RC Boat Hull From ScratchA scratch built RC boat hull easy and inexpensive. Plans are available for download.Continue reading "Build an RC Boat Hull From Scratch"Aug 20, 2012Ironclads - From Casemates and Monitors to Pre-DreadnoughtsIronclads make great model boats. Make sure that you use a number of boards such that the sum of their widths will add up to the desired width of the model.
Simple solutions to many common questions surrounding home made RC boats.Continue reading "Radio Controlled Boats"Aug 06, 2012Simple Electric RC BoatsSimple Electric RC Boats build log. Wait until they are fully dried, or approximately 24 hours, before removing the clamps and continuing work.
Your piece, however, will be stronger than a hull carved out of a single piece, as single-piece hulls tend to crack or warp over time.



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