I suspect that you'll have to use fiberglass cloth in the epoxy, as otherwise the epoxy may crack just like the paint. Paint will adhere just fine to epoxy as long as the epoxy has been washed with water and scrubbed to remove any amine blush or surface contaminants. You will generally need to apply a minimum of three decent, but not overly thick coats of resin, allowing you to sand most of one of them away during the smoothing process, leaving two good coats on the surface to seal it properly. Once your resin work is done and sanded, you are ready to paint and in most cases, primer adds nothing to the mix and isn't already being done better by the epoxy. Preaching strongly against the durability of epoxy on one thread and then instructing somebody how to use it with a prescription that contains so much misinformation on another thread ? Well I respect Todd's opinions and experience when it comes to epoxy and I'll defer to them. I have nothing against CPES, and would consider using it as a primer for paint, but not for epoxy. The danger of laying cloth into a layer of wet resin is that at some point, it will have thickened enough that it doesn't flow properly into or between the fibers. It's interesting that someone who is so anti-epoxy is so pro-CPES, considering that there are so many people who consider it the snake oil of the epoxy business. The method used by many builders is to lay on two plies of 1.5 oz fiberglass matt, with edges overlapping, applying them both at once, wetting the glass out with common polyester resin.
Around any opening, like a hatch, the gelcoat should be brushed down smooth where the hatch flange will land, to make for a tight fit without grinding. Seabird is a small yacht, two layers of 15 oz,( did you really mean 1.5 ?) gonna be kinna , um, awkward. Boat building lumber plywood - glen-, A description of boat building lumbers and plywood used in boatbuilding.. Homemade plywood jet boat (update) - youtube, Testing the engine with pump housing this feature is not available right now. Copyright © 2012 Autos Post, All trademarks are the property of the respective trademark owners.
Location: Englewood, Fl Cheap paint for meranti plywood Dont want to pay 150 dollars a gallon for paint, What type or brand is good for wood? Location: Eustis, FL A single part polyurethane is a good choice on encapsulated plywood. Location: Arlington, WA-USA I once used one part oil based polyurethane floor finish (very tough), and added powered pigment to give it some color. Plywood, if high quality marine grade will last a fairly long time, with just paint, but issues will eventually develop, just from living in the wet. Landlubber View Public Profile View Landlubber's Gallery Find all posts by Landlubber Page 1 of 2 1 2 > « Should I epoxy meranti 1088 entirely?
Steel hull prep - Sand blasting VS Wire wheel » Thread Tools Show Printable Version Email this Page Display Modes Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode Search this Thread Advanced Search Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Should I epoxy meranti 1088 entirely? When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Both pirogues have 2 bench seats, you can trim her out with your own custom seats if desired.
Learn how to fiberglass the easy way, by looking over the shoulder of an expert who is working on actual boats. Good maybe returned for full refund within 30 days at the buyer's expense, accompanied by the original invoice number. To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.


What I'm thinking of is to remove the old white paint, which is cracked or gone in some parts, from the deck. Dropping a layer of cloth into the mix as your first layer may be advantageous, if for no other reason than to act as a thickness guide to be sure you don't have thin spots in your resin coating. With a little practice ( by the second layer) dynel can be worked out that it closely resembles a canvas deck and is good non skid with just a coat of paint. Much of it is very bad epoxy practice and it's no wonder he doesn't like the stuff if that's how he uses it.
To be fair, some tests have shown a slight decrease in long-term moisture absorption when a combination of thinned epoxy, followed by regular epoxy are used on wood, compared to just regular resin alone.
It can result in areas where there is enough thick goo on the yarns' surface to prevent fresh resin from saturating properly, and that fresh resin can't get in there because the door is closed.
There are also a number of other good articles available there, many with test data on all sorts of epoxy-related subjects. When working, the deck is covered with sand, mud, and shells that come up off the bottom on the traps. Polyester doesn't have great adhesion, like epoxy does, but it's a big flat surface, and on a sailboat the outer edge will be held down by the toerail, and on the inside it should go under the edge of the cabin trunk.
If you do plan on keeping this boat in the water, you'll need total epoxy encapsulation, not just spot treatments or she'll rot pretty quickly. Much is I'm sure but she's been around for probably 85 years and it's likely she's never seen epoxy or anything but oil based paint. Look closely at the image E R posted, it is carvel planked, a completely different set of rules apply. That old cruiser is a carvel, probably a hardwood over frames deal and a completely different animal.
If low quality big box store plywood is used, it'll rot pretty much after the first year afloat, regardless of paint type used.
This is just as the word suggests and every nook, cranny, notch, screw hole, especially the end grain and all surfaces need a 10 mil coating of epoxy, to keep moisture from getting at it, plus paint or varnish to protect the epoxy from UV.
Built light and strong in our epoxy-plywood composite, view this plywood power catamaran plan below. At the same site, you will find hundreds of pages of tutorials, plans updates, a forum to share ideas about our boats and thousands of pictures - see completed boats and many of the building steps done by builders like you.
The deck is of plywood, and once clear, I want to coat it with clear epoxy and then paint it with white marine paint (plus some anti-slippery powder in some parts). Whether or not you need the cloth (fiberglass, dynel, etc.) to also help prevent checks on the plywood depends on the type of plywood used and other construction details. Since using it properly is usually no more work, less hassle, cheaper than making mistakes and it produces better results, I can't see much value in not bothering to learn when to use it, how to use it and when not to use it.
The difference, however, is so small that in my opinion it doesn't justify the price, the fumes, the fire hazard, the health hazards and the potential problems of CPES solvent bleeding out into the epoxy layers on top of it that will be doing the real work. With materials like Xynole and dynel, that don't turn perfectly clear in the first place, this is even harder to see happening than it is with fiberglass.
My question is whether the paint will hold well over the epoxy or if I should use some type of primer between the epoxy and the paint. Thinned epoxy as a second coat isn't much better as even a small percentage of thinner usually reduces the strength of the epoxy dramatically as well as its ability to limit moisture penetration. The best bond that you can get is one that exceeds the grain strength of the wood you are bonding to. If you want to make a more serious moisture barrier, there are compounds that can be mixed into the epoxy to help stop it at the surface, rather than deep down underneath the surface.


It's a great way to generate large areas that are semi-resin-starved and not up to snuff in terms of strength or moisture exclusion.
When shifting gear from one area to another, there might be over a ton of wire traps and their ballast bricks stacked on deck, and then being dragged around. Yes, I believe that to do a good job of recovering a plywood deck you have to take off all the hardware, toerails, and lift the house. Plus, I don't care what you use to apply it, unsanded epoxy makes for a lousy finish because it does not go on smoothly like paint or varnish and those lumps and bumps will telegraph through any finish you apply over it. Evaporating solvents like acetone leave holes behind, which is why good epoxy doesn't contain them. I doubt most people are born with that information, but there sure seem to be quite a few who think they were. With most boat wood and certainly with boat plywood, the epoxy joining composite fabrics to the wood has no problem at all exceeding the wood's grain strength. Included are layouts for cutting the plywood components, fastening schedule, material listing, and of course the step-by-step procedures for building the boat. Add them and you compromise the quality of the resin (as well as adding some nasty fumes and flamability to it). Personally, I had much of mine drilled into my brain by three sculpture instructors in college - two of them working in epoxy resin composites and one working in polyester resin, so I didn't have a choice. If you apply it properly and later were to peel off the fabric, it would take wood with it. We used to make fiberglass and Kevlar whitewater helmets that way and it was great for getting a flat sheet of cloth stuck down neatly into a sphere with no wrinkles, but that was a small, quickly accomplished job.
The idea is that when it's applied with a short nap roller it will stipple up into little peaks, which will remain standing while the gelcoat cures, giving a nonskid surface and finish all in one.
Laying cloth into wet resin as it is curing while you're trying to get it down tight is a great way to ruin a big chunk of expensive cloth and leave yourself one hell of a mess to clean up. Trying to do a whole deck, or a whole hull (even as small as a kayak) can be a real nightmare if for any reason your application job doesn't go as quickly as you had thought it would. How aggressive the anti=skid is depends on how thick the gelcoat is, and your roller technique.
I guess these days, if it can't fit into a three-minute YouTube video, nobody bothers with it though.
Penetrating deeper with heavily-diluted, solvent weakened, porous, used-to-be epoxy makes very little, if any, difference. If pulling the cloth off rips the crap out of the wood, does it really matter how deep it goes - especially considering that the ability of the diluted resin to exceed the grain strength is questionable in the first place? To avoid this, you get your cloth in position as well as you can before you ever get any resin on it. There is no texture that is coarse enough that you can ignore amine blush and expect a decent bond. You simply don't need any sort of primer to get a good epoxy bond on a properly-prepared wood surface. Build her with brass fittings and a rich wood finish or simple ring nails and a color paint job. I think most of us will agree that the deep penetration into rotten wood to make it hard again (but not strong like it was) that they have demonstrated with CPES on architectural do-dads really doesn't have relevance to serious boat work as we generally replace rotten wood with new wood for structural reasons.



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