With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts. Before I begin with the actual instructions for building this model, I'd like to go over the process I use to mill wood for a model ship. The various PDF files that you downloaded are used as templates to make the various parts of the model.
You will remember from the previous step that there was a scarf joint at the fore end of the keel. The final assembly of the keel structure is to add the sternpost as shown in the 1st photo and the stern deadwood as shown in the other photos. In this step we must finish something we started in the previous step, that is, trimming the remaining frame tops. Some of the outer planking is Virginia holly, a very clear, white wood, as is the deck planking. Using Chappelle's body plan and waterlines, I was able to loft a set of frame drawings for my model.
There are several items I use regularly in my model building that constantly need replenishing. Other items may be needed as we progress and I will try and give some advance notice of these items when they come up. CAUTION: PLEASE READ THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT CAME WITH ALL OF YOUR POWER TOOLS TO UNDERSTAND THE SAFETY PROCEDURES ASSOCIATED WITH THE USE OF EACH TOOL. I have always wanted to build a Chinese Junk in this fashion and leave it half done so the intricacy can be viewed. Model Boat Hull Design Notes a€“ Building tips for hard chine and round-bilged hulls using planking or carving methods.
Much of this page is a collection of free-floating thoughts, ideas and experience that I've collected over the years.
Different types and shapes of model boat hulls are more or less suited for certain types of construction. A planked hull has a number of bulkheads or frames, and a keel or keelson that form a structure. Probably the most often confused model boat hull designs are Plank-on-frame and Plank-on-bulkhead - strictly speaking, they are not the same thing. The "correct" way to plank a hull requires each board to be tapered towards the ends and sometimes stealers need to be used where necessary to close gaps.
Here is a laminated hull block (AKA Bread-and-Butter) of USS Olympia ready to be carved and faired up to a smooth hull. Traditionally woods, such as Mahogany, Balsa and Basswood, are the most frequently used materials, at least in North America. For Bread and Butter (aka Laminated hulls) there is a caveat: Laminating many thinner boards make the job of carving a lot easier, not only physically, but also visually, since there are more joints that help guide you find the true shape of the hull. Here is a list of the most common model boat hull designs that youa€™ll typically encounter.
Most hard chine boats are either small to medium sized motor boats, such as launches, torpedo boats, speedboats or small and modest sized sail boats. A round bilge hull can not be planked with sheets, but has to be either carved or strip planked.
The benefit with a multihull over a monohull is that they achieve the same stability as a monohull but with less wave forming resistance, so they go faster with the same driving power. Lesro 'Arrow'This model was found part built in a loft and sold to Bob Vaughan via the Club Shop for a 'fiver'.The build was completed with the help of a plan purchased from Lesro. It's a kind of tree that grows in various parts of the world and has virtually no visible grain and is very hard. You might also want to browse my website to see additional photos of my construction of the Hannah model as well as some other models I've designed in AutoCAD and buit from scratch. Well if Mr Hunt didn't remove the link to the plans and close down both sites he mention above , and if he was man enough to answer my messages on the now deleted sites as to why no one could access the plans any more , all I will say is TUFF .

The hull is typically a big part of your model boat building effort, especially for scratch-building.If judging from my own experience, most projects Ia€™ve abandoned were during the hull building phase, often because I didna€™t quite work out enough details at the hull design phase ahead of cutting and gluing.
Hopefully they'll help you succeed with your model by laying out different options for boat hull design and construction. Plank-on-frame mimics the way a full-size ship was built, from the way the frames are constructed, to the width and joints of each strip as it is planked. If the previous sentence was all Greek to you, then stick with plank-on-bulkhead.I've heard a general rule not to place bulkheads more than two inches (50 mm) apart. Other popular woods include Alder, Poplar, Yellow Pine, Cherry and Walnut.Some woods are less suitable, generally because they are either too hard or not particularly stable. Typically the lower part (under and including the bilge) are made up of a solid piece or laminated boards and, the sides are covered with sheets or strips of plywood, styrene, card stock or wood to form a complete hull.This method saves material and weight over straight Bread and Butter and is typically faster to build than a regular planked hull. A long and narrow hull will be a lot easier to plank than one that is short and wide.Planking a round-bilge hull with sheet material, the way paper models often are constructed, is by all accounts a compromise.
The most common are:Catamarans - two connected hulls of the same sizeTrimarans - three connected hulls, where the middle typically is larger than the other two. With a useful life of no more than three years, whaleboats were discarded on the spot throughout the coastal U.S. Additional information on milling the wood will be covered in the next step of these instructions. Once planks are laid or chips carved, it's often difficult to go back and make corrections.Some of my abandoned efforts also came s a result of snags I'd been unable to see before starting out.
Some may say casting is another method to create a model, and I agree that is true to a point. In the end, some hull planking is often left off to show the arrangement and construction of the frames.
Ia€™ve seen exceptions to this a€“ for instance: most Glynn Guest designs rarely have more than two or three bulkheads over a 30 to 40 inch length. It's relatively common for semi-scale working models where there is more leeway in regards to accurate representation.A hybrid built approach is especially suited for large warships, cargo ships, tankers and the like, where the sides are flat or near flat.
The time saved is two-fold: less bulkheads to cut out and line up and only a couple of strakes of planking.
Good examples are the Elco PT boats and many launches and motor torpedo boats by Vosper and others. You also see build logs in forums, often scratch-builds, done this way with styrene sheet.In this method the fitted panel span only between two bulkheads, the keelson and to a false deck at waterline (for instance).
Also, the more bulkheads and closer together, the smoother the result.For late 19th and 20th century steel hulls, Ia€™d use solid blocks at the extremes whenever suitable. He probably spat the dummy because he didn't win and shut down his site So no one could down load the plans His forum is run like a communist state .
I did not include that as a separate category, since the master (or plug), most likely, has to be created from one of the methods mentioned above.
American Beech is unsuitable, first because it is very hard, and secondly it is not stable and seems to have a mind of its own (warps).All said, there is no reason foam materials could not be used, such as polystyrene or "hard" polyurethane. This method typically leaves more room for running hardware, motors and RC gear than you'd see in a B&B hull. The side and bottom panels on these boats are actually scalloped (or concave) when looking at the original hull sections.
Ita€™s a convenient solution for paper or styrene, but it's difficult to finish into a true and smooth hull this way. It is very difficult to get plank strips to form that sharp entry of a full size vessel a€“ it always end up blunt.
Generally associated with sailing vessels of the Pacific Islands.Multihulled vessels are built for speed and economy. Remarkably, only a dozen or two have survived to become part of today's museum collections.In 1916, the Dartmouth Historical Society commissioned the building of a half sized model of the bark LAGODA. His is the first instructable I have come across where you can't do the project because of no plans .

This instructable should be deleted because its useless with out the plans of which he won't share .
Hopefully, these notes will help you avoid repeating my mistakes and increase your odds of successfully finishing your hull.I suppose this page can also be helpful in reviewing different types of kit constructions and the various hull materials used.
It had plywood bulkheads about 4-5 inches apart and planked with 3mm basswood strips.When all else fail, heat and moisture can make strips bend easier. These materials are commonly used when making surfboards for instance.One big benefit to a carved method is that there is very little stress and tension in the structure to contend with during the construction process, as opposed to those in any of the planked methods. Using blocks at the stern youa€™ll bypass the headache of tight bends and awkwardly tapered strips.
Local whaleboat builder Joshua Delano was retained to build the seven half-sized model whaleboats needed for the project. In a nutshell, this is meant to be a road-map for anyone curious about model boat hull design options. Bulkheads are often made of plywood and spaced much further apart than the frames in the plank-on-frame method. Since the strips are now forced to take a shape, youa€™ve got to watch and make sure it follows the true shape of the hull.Some material bend easier than others.
Therefore the need to rigidly hold the hull during construction is merely a matter of convenience rather than necessity. If youa€™re looking for easy, look for a straight shear line (where the deck meets the upper part of the hull) or another flat plane that can be laid flat on your building surface.
Naturally, this is not an option if the planking is exposed, but works great for hulls that are painted.Whenever scale appearance comes second to simplicity, some round bilge hulls can be simplified by converting them to some form of hard chine design. Some small to medium sized passenger ferries have been designed with multihulls for speed and economy. Large ships for instance, can often be built up with balsa or basswood sheet of appropriate dimensions and sanded to take on a more rounded shape. A hull that has a noticeable twist in it is often beyond saving.The kit manufacturer Billing have kits that are built one half at a time and later assembled.
The thicker the planking, the more material will be available to form a rounded bilge and other joints. The worst ones are softwoods such as Spruce, Cedar and Pine.I advice against using metal nails for fasteners.
Hull planks, oar and paddle blades, tubs, casks and rudder are accurately laser cut basswood. Metal nails are a nuisance when it comes to sanding the hull a€“ theya€™ll cut your fingertips.
If you read or hear that term, run the other way.The thinner the planking material, the better it takes a bend, and the less stress it puts on the structure as a whole. On the downside, thin material need more support, so more frames or bulkheads are needed and placed closer together. A better option is to make treenails and peg the strips in place.For appropriate sized model boats, staples can be used, but they tend to beat up the wood pretty bad and sometimes split the strips. Not a big deal if the hull is to be Bondo-ed, fiber-glassed and painted.The featured RC PT boat is a good example of a simplified hull being planked with sheet (balsa in this instance) for easy construction. The book, To Build a Whaleboat, gives you step-by-step building instructions, design and technical data. They are high quality acrylic based paints that can be thinned with water, thinner or alcohol. The colors contained in each paint set are based on the colors shown in the picture of the model.

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Comments to “Plank on frame model boats how to build”

  1. mia  writes:
    Proper, vacuuming, dusting, ironing, scrubbing the console.
  2. BABNIK  writes:
    Made an amazing begin, with nail into keelson with one warship battles.
  3. President  writes:
    And have all the time planned to build my own boat in retirement but even considering the.