Location: St Augustine Fl, Thailand Propane Tanks again, These bigger (500 gal) sizes are probably too big for your application, but likely there are some smaller ones that no longer meet the new pressure requirements, and thus become available at greatly reduced prices from new tanks.
We have acquired a small 4500# truck crane, electric over hydraulic which should work perfectly. If one would plan to use these overly heavy tanks, one would be better away, to just build a (much lighter) steel barge. Location: Maine I have a bunch of aluminum planks that are commonly used for bleacher seats.
Originally Posted by Fish Eye View I have a bunch of aluminum planks that are commonly used for bleacher seats. Location: Coastal Georgia Here's a houseboat that uses 4 - 1000 gallon propane tanks.
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The latest and greatest new boat releases from manufacturers large and small, as well as a look at some classic models from years past. What's hot in nautical clothing, gear, books, home furnishings, fishing tackle, electronics and more.
Contains short videos on every imaginable subject related to New England's aquatic resources, from fishing to history, kayaking to engine maintenance. It has been 90 years since the first wooden Beetle Cat sailboat was launched in New Bedford, Massachusetts.
In fact, Bill Womack and his crew recently introduced a new flat-bottomed work skiff that offers great stability and load-carrying capacity, as well as shallow-water access.
Perhaps the floating support(s) can be built to be 'disposable' after x-number of years, rather than the time, material, and expense of maintaining a rust free steel structure? Location: Lake Champlain Well were not looking to build a house boat barge but the idea is intriguing.
Location: Lake Champlain Is the main reason I am hearing to use galvanized over stainless fasteners strength? Originally Posted by indianbayjoe Is the main reason I am hearing to use galvanized over stainless fasteners strength? Location: spain Yah, for underwater work, In sea water, galvanized fasteners last a long time. Location: Lake Champlain They look to be expensive when all is said and done. I have just joined this group and I am hoping to get some advice on designs for a small, wooden cabin cruiser. I live on the east coast of China and want a boat which can be used for sea fishing and travelling around the coast. I plan to get the boat built by a Chinese boat builder and I want to aim for simplicity and functionality, rather than anything too extravagant. All input is greatly received and I plan to keep a photographic record of the build, with written updates of timing and cost, for anyone who is interested in the prices and quality of wooden boat building here in the East! Location: Eustis, FL Welcome aboard Lefroy and what length are you thinking will satisfy your needs?
I'm an italian yacht designer based in Shanghai, but I'm also in Hangzhou a 10ish days per month usually. If you're interested in a custom design, we can talk about it and I can show you some of my former designs (we can meet or I can send you by email).
I also have contacts with some local boat builders (I don't know if you already found one), in case that you'd like to receive a quotation of the costs before you start. If you get the design from somebody else, I can provide quality control and project management at the boatyard (this mainly in Shanghai-Zhejiang-Jiangsu area though); the chinese boatyards aren't so bad if there's someone who checks them and the materials from time to time. I am working in Rizhao (Shandong province) at the moment and right now I am just trying to get an idea of what it would cost to have a small 2-berth boat built that I could use for fishing and short coastal trips. So far all of the prices seem to be a little on the steep side so I am beginning to wonder if it would be easier to get an old, used cruiser from the UK, pay the shipping and tidy her up again before putting her in the water over here.
Used boats here seem to be non-existent and all the companies who I have spoken to are thinking westerner = western prices, which doesn't really work on a Chinese teacher's salary. What do you think would be the cost for a floating shell that I could add an outboard to and fit the interior at a later date?
Obviously I would prefer a complete build but my budget at the moment is only about $4,000. I think that the old cruiser from UK would be more expensive, though obviously it depends on the price of the used boat. Yes used boats are basically non-existent in (mainland) China, and that is so because new boats are also nearly non-existent!
For a cheaper alternative than buying in UK, I would suggest to have a look at the Hong Kong market (or maybe Taiwan), where you may find a larger choice and the shipping costs would be lower. Just for the shell (hull and superstructure, nothing else) your budget looks proportioned to the costs of materials and labour. I didn't understand if you plan to build the interiors by yourself or have it done by a boatyard, but at a later stage.
The central frame halves the flat area, it also gives a fairly rigid support to the gunwales.
At the beginning I was against using glass cloth however I have done some crude experiments on different cloths and using peel ply. In the third photo is a rowlock which can be clamped anywhere along the gunwale so I can experiment with seating and rowing positions. As autumn is here I have decided to temporarily stop work and have hoisted the boat up to the ceiling as I need the space to work on other interests and de-clutter so when I restart there will be more elbow room. Location: Alliston, Ontario, Canada Fibreglass canoes often look banged about partly because they are so heavy they get dropped and dragged a lot, partly because their owners know that they can take it and partly because a lot of them are quite old. The V cuts in the Ash blocks are to get a good grip for the filled epoxy and a short cross piece to hook under the inwales. To finish off the ends of the gunwales, I epoxied on a laminated cork bumper which I trimmed with a pull saw then sanded to shape.


In the poorly lit garage the large area of dark plywood was getting depressing so I decided to part paint the inside with green on the starboard side and red on port. The hull is close to being useable, the outside is fair but not as smooth as it should be and needs rubbing down and more paint later on. I have built 15 s and g yaks and canoes and use them in a rough rocky fast water inviroment.
Butt joints, they hold great and the only reason for the tape is to make them tough enough to hold together till you get the boat glassed.
14 boats have been built upside down ,one boat sitting upright , that is the only boat that isnt fair on the bottom.
Laying the cloth can be done several ways ,all in one piece or in two pieces with a 3 inch over lap in the center for extra wear protection.
Lay the cloth on the outside of the hull every few minutes start at the center and take your hand and smooth the cloth going out to the ends do this several times and the cloth will relax and conform to your hull. I apply epoxy with a roller starting at the center and working tward each end,then come back with a good quality brush every 30 minutes and dry brush it out .
I dont use fast epoxy so there is plenty of time to brush it,and you dont have to worry about the blush.
It does feel reasonably stable but having not rowed anything for 40 years am not sure how well it goes.
The seat was made from an unidentified sheet of ply that was acting as the pallet for the marine ply I bought. It makes the floor extremely stiff and there should be savings in weight to be made by cutting away unnecessary parts of the structure.
I am not a confident swimmer and on anything smaller than a car ferry would probably wear a PFD. Originally Posted by Anchy Thanks for advice as I am just about to cut marine ply to fit the windows. A template and flush cut bit set in a router make quick work of it if you have a number to do.
Use a spiral bit which cuts towards the side which can afford to have the bit of tear out which occurs.
Location: United Kingdom Thanks for advice, I am afraid that I will have to cut with jigsaw as I dont have a router at the moment, so I have to improvise.
Location: Eustis, FL Jig saws and circular saws rip out grain on the top of the cutting piece, while table saws rip out the bottom face.
It's all about two things: knowing your tool (how fast it likes to cut and what angle it might want to dive too if pushed) and second good, sharp blades. Go slow, use a sharp blade, don't force the cut and sneak up on the line, so you don't cut too much. Location: La Florida What I do is to make a guide either straight or curved to shape from low quality wood clamped to work piece and let the jigsaw, router or circular saw slide along it. Location: United Kingdom Hoytedow, thanks, that is exactly how I am gonna use it. Cutting panels in bow is nightmare, i try scribing it, using cardboard as guide etc by seems that is always wrong! A good method to cut down on this is to always cut with the good side facing down, as this edge will cut cleaner. You can also razor the cut line before making the cut, so that rip out on the surface is precut and you have the razored edge to look at.
Paul covered the subject so thoroughly he didn't leave any room for me to put my two cents in. Location: United Kingdom To all advisers bih help and of course more questions Thanks again for advises and sharing your knowledge. Originally Posted by hoytedow What I do is to make a guide either straight or curved to shape from low quality wood clamped to work piece and let the jigsaw, router or circular saw slide along it. I use these along with a big stationary pin router to set up for all sorts of inlay and template work. Very handy for dropping solid timber trim rings into panels such as a teak surround in a circular floor hatch etc. Each destination section contains detailed information on navigation, marinas, public dockage, Harbormaster contacts, fuel docks, anchorages, launch ramps, fishing options, service and repair.
From tuna to scup, the Fishing section contains valuable, updated information on rigs, lures, baits, hot spots, and techniques. Whether you want to be entertained or informed, or both, you'll find something of interest in the video library.
Today, the Beetle Boat Shop in Wareham, Massachusetts, is still turning out the handsome gaff-rigged catboats, as well as a variety of wooden skiffs. Called the Onset Island Outboard Skiff, the simple, affordable 12-footer features a marine plywood bottom, pine sides and bronze fastenings.
Before that he served as the editor of Northeast Boating from 2005 to 2009, and as managing editor of Salt Water Sportsman magazine from 1995 to 2004.
I want to try and keep the cost down, which is why I was planning to use wood, but perhaps I am mistaken.
I'd say 7 meters is about as short as you'd want for off shore work and a reasonable cabin. Is it possible to start a project with this sum or should I be saving up for summer next year?! Even considering a small boat (beam < ~8') that could be placed in a container, the shippment costs are several thousands $.
The issue I see is that it's a very small project (profit) so it may be difficult to find a boatyard interested.
It's a small boat and building with plywood panels is really easy and quick if you have some basic wood-working skills (especially if you can find somebody to help you). For several reasons, like the fact that with a bigger project you can get it at a proportionally lower price. I was surprised to see the bottom of the canoe so marked, it looked like someone had attacked it with an angle grinder. The motor canoe on which my boat is based has an area about 8ft by 3ft that is from a structural point of view flat.


I drilled 4 oversized holes and filled them with thickened epoxy so that they can be drilled smaller for bolts without leaving exposed timber. All parts of the bracket in contact with the gunwales are lined with 1mm neoprene for protection. To get them to the right profile I clamped them on with the ends 4mm above the gunwale then used a spokeshave to get it to be horizontal and match the sheer, a piece of 4mm ply to check the height. England Since October I have been preparing 2 motorbikes and an old car for sale and managed to dispose of them which has released more space. Butt them up run your epoxy slap some tape on it and then do the other side ,now you can handle the strip with little fear of it snapping.
England Well after a lot of delay I eventually got the trailer into roadworthy condition and launched the boat for a brief row. It may well turn to mush if water gets to it however this was just an experiment using 'free' wood which if found suitable could be made in marine ply. I shall not be doing anything to it in the meantime as I am focussing on fitting it out for sailing. England It was at Ullswater Yacht Club, the Open Canoe Sailing Group were holding a meeting. The jacket was a panic buy as I tried the zip on the old one but the teeth were so brittle they snapped off.
I wonder if this forum is still going on as I started work for very first time on a boat and is very very tricky. I did cabinet making in workshop before, did everything on machine, so I am not very experianced with hand tools but I am ready for challenge. Most jig saws will tend to wander in specific directions, depending on which side of the line you're cutting. While i was studying I kept picking up peaces in diff shapes to use than in future as a guide.
Use a saw guide to make straight cuts, don't force the saw, let the blade do the work, not your arms. The 2 photo im gonna attached now are first is the boat im working and second is how i decide to do window frame. You'll also find videos, links and info on places to shop, dine, and local points of interest. Get the scoop on recent search-and-rescue ops, marina news, dredging, boating and fishing events, weather alerts, fishing reports, and anything else that happens along the coast. It's also where you can learn about recent noteworthy catches, watch entertaining fishing videos and find links to state regulations and license information. I was also thinking that a design based on an outboard motor would be cheaper but (as I have mentioned once or twice) I know nothing about boat design! Her pilothouse is fully inclosed for protection from the elements and has full standing headroom (1.9 m), including the head. Me (or any other designer of your choice) would help you and guide you through the process.
It made me understand all the advice to sheath my hull at the beginning of the thread, however this is not the sort of usage I intend. My plan was to use 4mm plywood and add frames etc as necessary, some of which would be removable so would not get in the way of different uses. My decision coincided with what was described here as a heat wave but is probably normal for a lot of you, so I delayed it until the weather changed. I like the adjustable rowlock - I had a small row-sailboat that had a similar feature, although in practice the rowlock mostly stayed in one place as I found I mostly did solo rowing.
I put battons all around windows so I wonder what shell I use between Ply and window rubber?
Table saws have the teeth rotating down, through the table, so the rip out occurs under the work, while jig and circular saws have upward facing teeth, so the opposite happens. For example, if your blade is cutting to the right of the line, you often have to cock the saw slightly to the left as you cut, to keep the blade on course and tracking down the line.
I wish that I have a router as its best for curves but jigsaw will do with fine blade, I also used the masking tape and cut the faced dowm marine to min. Its very hard and is grainy and the woven bamboo is full of resin and takes the edge of a saw very quickly .
Set the blade so just the teeth and the gap between the teeth show though the cut, no more.
Somebody advice to scribe but i find to be very tricky, so i did exact shape to fit widow in sacrificial ply and got frame on the top and with 2 screws in the middle of the window i got position of opening for window right. Some just use a thwart but this can lead to distortion of the hull and the mast leaning to leeward.
Peel ply is marvellous stuff as I have problems wetting out without forming pools of resin on top. You have evidently discovered what all boatbuilders find out; there are never enough clamps. I took it apart in the 1980s but did not have the time or facilities to restore it then and kept it as a retirement project but I have neither the energy or interest to do it now, fortunately it has gone to an enthusiast who should make a good job of it. This limits your cutting angle to 90 degrees of course, but once tried you will never go back.
Cutting on the opposite side of the line does the reverse and you need to steer the saw away from the line, to keep the blade on course. On that picture you can see that I started to glue some battens around window on which Im gonna screw 3mm marine ply (the one i hold in picture). I dont know what to use between my ply and window as it will be inch gap, or shell I take that battens out, send that metal around and fix ply directly to it? We don't have an outlet for surplus military stuff like they have in California and the Ohio area and the south.
I get some magazines and they seem to have a bunch of locations for some of that great military surplus stuff.



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Comments to “Plywood work boat plans free”

  1. biyanka  writes:
    The hull that's to be painted have surfboard, Pontune.
  2. 99999  writes:
    Step with the waterline (from the heel of the stem nationwide.
  3. Ispanec  writes:
    Instructions for using WEST SYSTEM.
  4. Leyla_666  writes:
    Will hold water, it actually needs.