Enjoy it Larry when you get it, U bought a fishing kayak to carry with us when we go camping with the tear or the pop up. The only bad thing about that is the trolling motor makes it so that it is required to have registration numbers on it. Rowerwet, in checking out your pictures I noticed your "little boat taking on water did you do that on purpose?" How much weight does it hold up safely?
JEM has their own version of this and all they have done is deck two over and build a bridge to connect them.
I have to say that I have spent a fair amount of time on, around, and swimming under various pontoon boats, and most of them are of shockingly shoddy construction.
One thing tubular hull pontoons have going for them is they really smooth out the ride on our busy wake-torn reservior. I'm going to price out the cost of building, motor and trailer and see if it makes better sense to buy a used one. Fix up a garvey the same size as the 'toon with 'toon accommodations and you will have a better boat. The Bolger Bantam idea looks interesting too, as it might be a bit smoother crossing wakes, but the topsides need some modification to get the 'toon look. I ended up with 3 sheets 57a€? x 48a€?, 1 sheet 48a€? x 32a€?, 2 side pieces 48a€? x 6a€?, and 4 side pieces 57a€? x 4a€?. I cut a 2a€? x 2a€? stringer to fit between the toons and used a couple blocks to hold the sheets in place while I used the drill to put the screws in place. Before putting the side pieces up, I have decided to have a 1 inch 75 degree bend put in them, so the A? gap at each side will be covered up. As you can see it looks nothing like an original Voyager it once was (see my rebuild thread for that). Since 1960's, Sunbrella continues to set the standard for quality performance fabric in the boating industry.

I built it using the slightly more expensive method that uses marine epoxy and fiberglass tape for all the joints.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. And two, that each pontoon seems to be submerged for half its diameter when floating unladen by crew at a dock. It may be OK at 12 feet with a small motor but I wouldn't use it as a basis for something 50% bigger driven by substantial horsepower.
I choose 5052 because I understand it is more resistant to corrosion and is stiffer than the readily available 3003.
They are stainless steel, with a washer, a neoprene washer and they are coated with a coating to resist seizing and corrosion. I have watched the water under the boat at speed, and the water hits in the center, but then is deflected to the sides, so I want the gap filled. I decided to get a one inch bend of 75 degree on the side pieces to cover up that gap, and make the side pieces stronger. I'll eventually cover it since a lot of my wire runs are up front and I had a vertical guide on catch them once and pull the wiring out from the port side (I've since removed the vertical guides altogether), but it'll help with hiding the wire. I've never seen the underside of a pontoon boat but I'll bet the bridging is substantial and well thought out. As others have noted, they don't do well when the waves get big, but for most powerboat wakes, you just ride right over them. I called several local shops and got a three prices from $115 a sheet to $195 a sheet, with the best price from the smallest shop. I should have ended up with 6 side pieces 5a€? x 48a€?, it was a miscommunication between me and the vendor. I choose 75 degrees instead of 90 degrees so the side piece would snug up to the top better, and any pressure would snug it up more.

I'm gonna have to make another one soon, for my third child, age 5-6 is about the right age for a kid to be their own captain, and it is as memorable for them as riding without training wheels for the first time.
But don't try to play Kon-Tiki, they are meant for use only in protected waters such as rivers and lakes.
I like the coating because I found research showing stainless steel, into aluminum, can promote corrosion especially in salt water, and a coating will help resist it. These boats are not meant for high speeds; leisurely speeds with low power and economy is the name of the game with the HUCK FINN. If I had thought ahead, I think that would have been included in the origional purchase, because it only took them 5 minutes. My advice would be not build any permanent furnture on the deck other than a control console, a stowage bin and a sun pad.
Deck units and the pontoons are detachable from each other so that storage need not be a problem. I think you have it confused, the weight capacity is 300lbs but the actual boat weighs 67lbs.
They had already tried calling me friday but couldn't reach me because of the wrong phone number so it wasn't loaded on the truck for delivery for today. There was a broken piece of the seat that was laying in the box and the tie-down straps were a bit short compared to the ones in the pics.
Other than the shipping difficulties and the 2 other issues, I believe it's gonna be a good boat.

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