I had planned to build a Peanut pram as a first boat, but since then I have seen Hannu Vartial's Portuguese style dinghy, and I have plumped for that. This is to be cheap, so against all recommendations, I have bought a couple of sheets of builder's plywood, 5.5mm and 9mm, plus some cheap softwood from a DIY chains closing down sail. Cutting the sides and transom were very simple, using a Japanese pull saw to cut along the straight lines. Here the sides, outer transom, temporary cross braces and inner stem are laid out on the floor. I want to keep the weight down as much as possible, so will make a couple of large cutouts in the inner transom.
I have managed to cut out the remainder of the inner transom this evening, and I'm quite pleased with the finished work. I have thoroughly (I hope) glued the two parts together, priming both faces with neat epoxy and then applyig thickened epoxy to just the inner transom before squeezing them together just enough for a bead of glue to ooze out.
Next stage will be to dry fit the sides to the transom to pick up the angle the bottom will make. I like your project, when I first saw the title I was thinking of the banks dories discribed in Villier's book the Voyage of the Argus.
Decided to build it recently out of lightweight 5mm Luan Ply underlayment and mostly Select Pine boards from a local big box hardware store.
The boat, as built, is a nice easily handled tender for a cruising Trailer Sailor, weighing in at ONLY 49.7 pounds! It was a fun build, despite the mostly windless hot Florida weather, and kept me busy and out of trouble for a while. The two (2) scissor-like cross braces doing double duty as side strengthening supports and support for seats. Close-up of side supports showing permanent side cleats to maintain proper fore and aft position and gunwale bottom edge to firmly wedge downward into a solid fixed position.
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This project covers the construction of two rowboats that are primarily constructed with three sheets of plywood. These two shots are just showing what the boat looked like after it was all screwed together with the ribs and transom. If the link to Hannu's website ever changes (I discovered that it had) please Google Hannu Vartiala and his new website should come up. I want to build this boat as a end of summer project, but I'm confused on how to read the diagrams on the other website. Thanks, I started building the boat around 12:00 and finished the outside fiberglassing about an hour ago.


Thank you for the Instructable - it really fills in some information gaps in Hannu's instructions. Is it possible to sail with a right-triangle sail that has only a mast and sheet, no booms or sprits or anything?
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. Even simpler than the Peanut, and it has a pointed stem, which make sit look more boat-like.
I think 6mm is too thin, so I am building an outer 5.5mm transom with an inner 9mm transom glued to it. The top of the transom is over high and straight at the moment, to make it easier to work on the upside down boat.
Here I have used a 45mm hole saw to drill out the curved edges of the cut out, which I will join up with pull saw cuts.
It lines up nicely with the outer transom, giving all the strength I will need and a couple of hand holds at the stern. I cleaned up the glue brush with some acetone and was amazed at how clean it seemed to get it. I have cable-tied the transom in place, screwed the sides onto the temporary cross braces and clamped the stem together with some spring clamps and there she is.
They are too acute an angle for this boat, but I think I can reshape them to fit and it would be nice to use them, having made them.
The plans from Hannu say this is a one and a half sheet boat, but really it's a two sheet boat, Not much is left after the floor is cut out of the second sheet, certainly less than half. The boat has fiberglass tape reinforced filleted seams and is epoxy coated with fiberglass cloth reinforcing the outside of the bottom.
Just need to mount the oarlocks for a "complete" boat which are on the way from Duckworks BBS. They are positioned about ?" off the bottom to allow water to drain back to the plug in the transom. A double edged Japanese pull saw followed the curved line of the top beautifully and did not require any cleaning up. Four of the holes have been taken right through the outer transom, and these are joined to form handholds in the stern. If I fit a reasonable sized one to the bottom of the transom and chamfer it to fit the floor, I can screw the back edge of the floor in place and then bend it over the sides. Gettting the floor shape is difficult as the sides wobble about as you try to trace around them. Interior and exterior received two coats of Interlux Brightsides Polyurethane (different colors of course).


I used a design by Hannu Vartiala, a very generous boat enthusiast who has graciously provided boat plans free of charge on his website.
The finished product wasn't a great deal harder to handle than a one ply boat, and I could get both boats in the back of the pickup (turned on their sides). The inner transom is 5mm narrower on both sides, forming a basic rebate for the side panels when it is glued to the outer. I tried to cut one of the knees I had already made to fit, but there was no way they could work.
I am thinking of leaving the floor projecting a couple of inches beyond the sides to form chine runners, which might obviate any need for a centre board or lee boards. Bit of an optical illusion here as the lower transom in the photo is the narrower inner one. After fitting four carefully each side of the transom, I found that it had slipped down about 10mm. So now I am trying to cut much simpler braces to go across the corners, but even that is a challenge. If they don't work, I am thinking of lee boards in slots just inside the hull sides, but that will need a lot of thinking about. For a sail, I would use the mizzen from my BayCruiser (left hand boat in the bottom picture, the other is an Austrian built Swedish pilot boat, absolutely gorgeous and goes like stink) and see how it goes. I have also glued in a triangluar block inside the stem and a straight board along the bottom of the transom. I am in the process of building another that I hope will be stronger and speedier than the other two. I have screwed the sides to the stem and next will epoxy it all tight and remove the screws. I want to get the seat brace in before I fit the floor in order to stiffen the whole thing up, although the plans call for the floor to be fitted before any knees or frames.
The straight temporyr edge to the transom does make it easier to work on the boat upside down. Just paint some resin onto the timber, lay down the cloth, then dab more resin on to wet the cloth.



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