This RC boat hull building instruction goes hand-in-hand with the plans available for download (use link below).
Read a short introduction to this new series of small RC model boats to learn more, what materials you'll need etc.
At this point all templates should be glued to the balsa with the Spray Mount Adhesive, essentially turning the templates into over-size sticky notes. Also note that the deck and chine shelf templates only account for one half of the hull, so you need to make two of items "A" and "B". With the exception of multiple parts from one template (as outlined above) parts with straight edges are best cut to finished size with the knife and straight-edge.For rounded edges there will be excess material coming off as angles. At this point its tempting to peel off the templates, but hold your horses - we're not quite ready for that yet. Once the necessary marks are made, you can safely peel off the templates with one exception: Leave the template on the keel in place for now.
When I built the prototype I didn't have the hull alignment template, so you'll see the template is missing in the pictures on this page.
Take a straight-edge and pencil and draw lines connecting the bulkhead position marks you made from the templates to aid bulkhead placement later on.Earlier we marked both front and rear edge of the bulkheads onto the balsa. Place the transom (item "5") in-between the two chine shelf pieces and line it up with even on the left and right hand side. Next dry fit the stem piece (item marked "D") and bulkhead #1 and lay them in position with stem piece centered on the hull center-line and the bulkhead in it's marked position.Check and make sure they are perpendicular to the building board and each other. HiI don't know how old this blog is, but thought I'd add some input on the question of how to seal the drive system from water leakage.I just completed a Dumas tug model and the idea of using a grease stuffing shaft didn't appeal to me. For independent control of two motors the best bet will be using one of the new helicopter radios and two ESCs.You can set one stick for throttle up and down and use the right and left for differential of each motor. First the sharp edges at the underside of the deck and upper edge of the chine shelf needs to be sanded flush with the bulkheads. It may be hard to see in this picture, but the upper side panel (between the deck and chine shelf) has been sanded, corresponding to #1 & 2 in the illustration above. I determine the shape of each sheet by holding a roughly cut piece of balsa to the hull with one hand and transferring the contour to the sheet with a pencil. Before planking the lower panel is a good opportunity to install the motor mount and propeller shaft. Prawn Balsa Wood Brushless RC Model Electric Boat with 3660 MotorWith the detachable structure, it's convenient for players to DIY the boat under the condition of not affecting hull strength and installation precision. Note how the paper "hollow" inside the templates is left to maintain the integrity of the shapes. Now it's time to start cutting out the parts.Separate each part from the sheet first by using a razor blade or X-acto knife and a metal straight-edge. The same goes for the knee (item "E").The best way to make two identical parts is to sandwich two sheets of wood under the template and cut through the stack.
Instead we need to transfer relative position from the templates to some of the parts to aid the assembly for accurate position and alignment.The best tools for the job is a small square and a sharp, relatively soft, lead pencil.
Having the center line marked on the outside of the transom will help in aligning the keel and rudder.The other components need marks to give the relative position for the bulkheads. This is a good opportunity to trim and fix minor flaws that may have worked its way in at this point. It is good if you can drive pins into it, lay weights or use magnets to hold the chine shelf down flat on the building board or table top.Lay down the Hull Alignment Template on your building board and lay a sheet of wax paper or plastic food film (Seran Wrap or similar) over to prevent the model to stick to the template and your table. Assembly should be a lot easier and almost self explanatory with the template.Align the two halves of the chine shelf on the hull alignment template. Now I usually only connect one set of those tick-marks, using the other set as a visual guide for bulkhead placement. The position of the stem piece is more important than the bulkhead, so pay extra attention to it.
In the next installment we'll focus on the deck, keel and lower part of the hull structure before moving on to some internal installations and planking. In my job as an engineer, we sometimes have to transmit motion through a vacuum chamber wall and use magnetic couplings to do this. I use the inexpensive Fly Sky 6 channel radio.You might want the 9 channel for more goodies. The only thing standing in the way is some final sanding of the frame to take out any bumps and inconsistencies, and to provide more surface contact between the balsa planking and the hull structure.
It helps give me a visual indication of where I've sanded and helps give an early warning if I'm starting to take off too much material in one spot.You may or may not want to mark the edge of the chine shelf as well. Continue sanding front to back so the sanded edges on the deck and chine shelf are true in that direction.
It's easy to tear out parts of the balsa planking on the upper panel if you're not careful.
It is a lot more complicated doing after the hull is closed up.The propeller shaft I made for this boat is identical to the one I made for this plastic kit conversion, only a little longer - measure on the plan for actual length. I just was scooping the loop and was looking for boat plans and saw where the strakes were left original shape they were bought. Neither the service provider nor the domain owner maintain any relationship with the advertisers.
Next it's time to cut out the templates, starting with the bulkheads, transom, keel, deck and chine shelf (Item "A").A word of caution, don't cut too close to the outline at this point.


Once your happy with the layout you can pencil in the outline of the templates onto the balsa, or take a picture, so you remember where each piece go.Use the Spray Mount adhesive to glue the templates in place.
Start at the angled peaks and work your way around the perimeter.When sanding, your strokes need to go in one direction only. Only one line is required per bulkhead, but I typically mark the position for both edges so I don't have to remember if the bulkhead goes in front of or behind the line. Better to remake one erroneous part than an entire assembly, so take your time.Dry fitting also helps you familiarize yourself with the pieces that make up an assemble and help you figure out which order to attach the parts while retaining good alignment and integrity. I've found the wax paper resist CA glue better, so that's what I use.Secure the sheets to the board with a method suitable for the type of building board you're using - it can be pins, tape, weights etc. The knees should line up with the inner edges of the chine shelf (see pictures), but their placement is not critical.Sometimes the parts will stay in place by themselves, other times they need pins. I know I would like dual props and two motors, each direct drive, forward, reverse and fully speed controlled independent of each other (I presume) and a way to control the dual rudders.My ship is about 35" long, 7" wide amidships and 14" tall.
I adapted this approach to the tug drive and built my own version of the coupling.Basically, the motor drives a set of magnets in a housing and couples magnetically to a magnetic rotor which is housed in a waterproof canister. If done right it trues up a wobbly hull and add significant strength by better accommodating the hull planking.The process isn't complicated, but may need a thorough break-down for the novice.
A red line shows where a straight sanding block or stick has been used.Don't take it as gospel, as some steps can be switched around without making much of a difference on the end result.
Generally the tighter bends and compound curves are more pronounced at the stem and I like to get them out of the way in the beginning. Also make sure you alternate sides when you plank: lay a sheet on the right, then the corresponding sheet on the left etc. You can lessen the risk of this happening by:avoiding the lightest quality balsaavoiding course sandpaper. Towards the stem the transition is more ambiguous and disappear completely at the first bulkhead.
I want to build one of these boats, and I have some woodworking experience, but I cannot figure out what parts I should use, and how I should run the driveshaft through the hull. In case of trademark issues please contact the domain owner directly (contact information can be found in whois). This step is just to separate the pieces so they can be trimmed later.You don't need the straight-edge, but it is infinitely easier to make a cut if you do, and the risk of slipping and cutting into a template is greatly reduced. The amount of glue is relatively important - too much glue and you won't be able to get them apart etc.How to make a perpendicular cut through both sheets?Making a perpendicular cut free hand on balsa is difficult. I expect to make the hull out of wood and sealer with all work above the main deck to be balsa.What I don't know is how to match all these devices together with a radio transmitter etc.
The rotor is connected to the drive shaft which passes through a tube which is epoxy sealed to the hull. This page is meant to clarify the sanding and planking process for the simple RC boat hull.
Instead use a medium course sand paper: 80 to 120 gritWhen sanding, go in the direction along the length of the hullJust as in step one, the keel needs to be sanded to an edge as well to give the planking some flat area to land on. Boat is hand-built from strips of wood in similar way as the construction of the real boat, using historical photographs, drawing and original plan. Reason is it raises the boat up at transom and increases speed and less horsepower is needed to move the mono. I know it sounds small but use thinner piano wire and make bends inside or outside for smooth movement. BBY and look up micro patriot mono showing transom which will give you a good view of rudder. If you have a scroll saw or band saw it can be put to good use at this step.As the pieces are separated from each other, there will be excess material surrounding the templates. Either way, once the placement is right, attach the pieces with small drops of CA glue at the joints. The one on the picture is technically too wide, which made the sanding more difficult than it had to be. Materials: Hull is made from finest hardwoods like Teak, Mahogany, Rosewood or other tropical hard woods.
Now as pictured , strakes cause drag and when strakes are planed down and flat leave a sharp edge to aide in turning. To get to finished size I trim off the last bit with 80 grit sandpaper on a hard sanding block. I often lay the balsa over the edge of my work table and that way have an easier time keeping the angle straight. The resulting angles will be taken off at the final trim.I also tend to start with the outside shape and do any internal areas last, otherwise the pieces can break and split easily.
You can find exquisite details from the leather works to all the realistic gauges, inlaid wood deck & a detailed original dash. Most times i don't need trim tabs as i put motor and batts real close to CG lines with batts on each side of motor, makes for almost flat running boat. Some of your questions have been asked before in different contexts and in slightly different forms. It's a good indicator I probably should write a separate page for several of those questions.I don't think I've ever been successful in getting everything in a single purchase, mainly for two reasons. Each boat undergoes a strict quality control process to ensure perfection of small details.


History of FERRARI HYDROPLANE:The Arno XI is a hydroplane inspired by Achille Castoldi in the early 1950s and built by Timossi Azzano's Cantieri boatyard located on Lake Como. You have plenty of displacement to work with, without requiring extreme construction methods. It's good practice to have easy access to everything to do with control and propulsion.The most desirable solutions are concealed as deck houses etc. The result was a 502 bhp speedboat, which he used to hit a 150.19 mph top speed in October 1953 on Lake Iseo. That remains the world speed record for a 800 kg boat till todayHandcrafted Model Ships RC Titanic 72 Ready To Run Remote Control RMS Titanic 72 in. Limited With LED Lights Cruise Ship Model Decorative AccentUnmatched in elegance detailing or craftsmanship these opulent scale model RMS Titanic replicas are the museum-quality crown jewel of our fleet of RMS Titanic models. Enjoy the exquisitely crafted and delicate features abounding upon her decks the grace and majesty of her carefully rendered lines and the attention to every detail of this superlative model of historys most famous ocean liner. If you make sure the upper end of the tube is just slightly above the waterline, you'll never have to worry about water coming in. Be swept away by the magnificent splendor and timeless allure of these RMS Titanic replicas.Features. I like to use a brass tube with a close fitting brass rod as a shaft.I almost always make the rudders with a hardwood core the same thickness as the rod. I try and make the brass rod not protrude outside the final shape of the rudder.Next I sandwich it all between two pieces of thin plywood. Once the epoxy is set I sand it to shape.Installing rudder servos and linkage is difficult to explain in only so many words.
All windows and portholes exactly sized and positioned according to the original RMS Titanic construction plans. I think this can be worked out later, as long as you make sure there is access to fiddle with it.Propeller Shafts - Most propellers and shafts for scale model boats have metric threads - M4 being the most common.
To avoid taking in water, the stuffing tube is filled with grease before the propeller shaft goes in.
I typically aim for two inches closest to the propeller.You need to figure out what length shaft to buy, and it can be tricky. They typically come in two inch increments - 8, 10, 12 inches etc.Graupner is probably the most common brand, but there are others (Dumas comes to mind, but their selection is poor).
Delivery can be a problem, so order ahead of time.Propellers - Rarely have I been able to pick a single propeller and motor combination that I've been happy with.
The easiest, cheapest and laziest approach is to commit to a motor and be flexible when it comes to the prop.You may want to consider buying at least three sets of varying diameter just to be safe. To keep the cost down, get plastic propellers and when you're in the ball-park you can upgrade to brass or bronze later.Motor - The power requirement is split between two motors on the model. Numerous deck objects and features include deck cleats vent shafts lattice grates miniature benches and more. Master Airscrew Speed 550 or Graupner Speed 500 would probably work well.The work-point for the motors will probably not be at max efficiency, since it's a direct drive. Myrtle Corey Memphis River Towboat KitThe Myrtle Corey is a fine example of a late 1800s river towboat.
Since you will be using a left and a right hand propeller, I'd stay clear of the coupling that looks like an extension spring between two clamp collars. Typical of the day these boats were site built without plans with lots of substitutions and jury rigged construction. Once commonplace along the waters of the Mississippi and Arkansas rivers the Dumas model of the Myrtle Corey is designed to bring that amazing era back to life. The best ones have two knuckles - one to adjust for angular misalignment, and the other for radial offset.It's good practice to give it your best effort to avoid misalignment. The substructure is made from diecut expanded pvc and there is a load of stripwood to provide the boat with its characteristic planked deck and cabin sides. As mentioned earlier, 4mm is the most common propeller shaft diameter.Most of what I've left out has to do with the RC controls - Transmitter, servos, Speed control etc. I feel that can be worked out once the boat is built and rudders, shafts, motors etc are in place.Hopefully, I'll have articles covering those aspects in detail once you get there.
So if you have been thinking about trying your hand at something a little different take a look at the Myrtle Corey.Features. Decorative Cruise ShipCelebrating the holder of the Blue Riband for the fastest trans-Atlantic crossing by a passenger vessel the SS United States model cruise ship is built with the finest craftsmanship and demanding attention to every detail evoking the elegance and grandeur of a bygone era.
These exquisite cruise ship models of the famous SS United States will carry you back to the heyday of the grand trans-Atlantic ocean liners. All windows and portholes exactly sized and positioned according to the original construction plans. Extensive research of original plans historical drawings and paintings as well as actual photographs ensures the highest possible accuracy.
Decorative Cruise ShipTravel back to the heyday of the grand trans-Atlantic ocean liners with these exquisite cruise ship models of the famous RMS Lusitania. Evoking the elegance and grandeur of a bygone era the RMS Lusitania model cruise ship is built with the finest craftsmanship and demanding attention to every detail.



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