Wheels Online Landsailing Journal has translated this script into a Java program that anyone can run. Since I've heard quite a few questions about my spring loaded side stays I've provided a short description below. One benefit of this system is that in sudden gusts, the sail leans to leeward and naturally spills wind to prevent capsizing. When the sail is leaning to leeward, the air flows upwards and to leeward (parallel to the mast).
Now consider if instead of 1 pound at each end, you put 2 pounds in the center of the beam. The wind was blowing approximately 20 mph when this beam failed just forward of the mast step. This spreadsheet is an aid in designing beams for the main spar, rear beam and mast cross sections.
The system is relatively cheap and simple to put together but the initial results were disappointing.
The speedometer hit a limit at 11.2 mph, and was incapable of measuring any higher speeds on the 80mm wheels. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the steering a little bit off -- there's bucketloads of negative caster there? Also what would the torque loading be on the main chassis tube, bearing in mind how much leverage the mast has, and how long the tube is before it splits into the rear axle?
I have based the thoughts for the steering on "Wildfire" which worked well (but foot steering not tiller). Draw a line down through the axis of the steering pin, it should intersect the ground in front of the contact patch of the wheel. Hi Brian, looking at your Sandpiper design, the produced line of the steering head axis is clearly behind the tyre contact patch.
To save time on fabrication and probably cost, I am considering using the front end of a kid's size BMX bike including the steering head. The sandpiper steering was "light" mainly because the seat was leaning back a fair bit and this reduced the weight on the front axle but it steered quite nicely .. Mind you for a Class 6 bike wire spoke wheels work fine as a front wheel but they collapse as rear wheels , Plastic bike wheels are stronger BUT the tyres will roll off at high speed .. A thought in the design of "this" Class 5 was to use a clamp on the main spine tube for front end. Its a simple FREE Cad program and works very well, still not as creative as a pencil on the back of a beer coaster but the results from the Cadstd are GREAT.
Every shopping trolley I get hold of has all wheels with minds of their own, all wanting to go in every direction, but the one I want them to! In Argentina the strong wind rule was"no-one will be forced to take thier yacht to the starting line". I've got a set of plastic rims being modified in adelaide at the moment,and the set of Carbon rims we tested at gillies failed due to the wrong type of epoxy resin being used. 16 and 20" work fine on cl 5 front end if used as a layover and on smoother surfaces on the back.
I'm into cycling more than landyachting and you'd be amazed at the technological advances in bike wheels of late.


Yeah I was thinking of doing that as the stubbs only have a couple of cm to attach to the bracket. There seems to be a bit of a delay with my lefroy mini project, something about fingers and lawnmowers!
If you look at some ofthe last postings you will see bandaged fingers for scale and dating purposes. As a lay down seat to some degree is aerodynamic or are the rules refering just to the chassis?
I have noticed many pics from overseas that the Class 5 yachts have very slick almost enclosed seats. A comprehensive guide for modellers who wish to scratch build a radio controlled model yacht. Chapters include: Strip planking the hull, fibreglass strengthening, mold and casting lead keel ballast. Dear Bryn, I felt I had to tell you, my beautiful 75, "Jack Sparrow" got away from me due to a radio malfunction and sailed off into the distance across Port Phillip bay to be not heard of again, probably on its way to China?? My latest model is a foiling catamaran based on the AC45 (another brilliant NZ design)(very sad to see NZ beaten in the cup) and so "Black Mamba" has evolved. I built an RS1000 and had so much fun building and sailing it I decided to build a couple of RS750's for my grandchildren in Zurich. Bit of juggling to get them into a suitcase but the whole project worked well and the boys just love them. Check out this cool little cardboard sparrow built by John Whitehead from Perth, Western Australia. Hi Bryn, I recently finished building these 2 Racing Sparrow RS750s which i really enjoyed, it was a great project and kept me busy for a few months.
Paddlinglight is publishing a series of digitised plans for building cedar strip versions of well known traditional kayaks and canoes. Italians race development class of boats limited only by sail area and length limited by the standard (in Italy) 3.1m sheet of ply.
Free plans for a very simple 14ft stitch and glue skiff drawn by myself (Gavin Atkin) and named after my mother. Free plans for a very simple 12ft stitch and glue skiff drawn by myself (Gavin Atkin) and named after my daughter, Ella. An easy to build light-weight 15ft 6in rower suitable for use on lakes and rivers, perhaps for exercise rowing but also usable for picnics on the river, fishing and the rest.
Plans for two boats - one extraordinarily beautiful, the other an extraordinarily eccentric racer. A nicely-built example of my Cinderella canoe, adapted for rowing with some neat outriggers made from ply.
Free designs for a very sweet ply camp-cruiser for one, or a cat-rigged sailing dinghy for more.
Not really about free boat designs - though there might be some later - but a new blog about boat restoratons, traditional boatbuilding, and traditionally-derived boats. Try our customised Google search designed to eliminated all the irrelevant junk you sometimes get! A little open-canoe for paddle-savvy kids who love the water, and aren't nervous in a tippy boat!


I like this one from an old American magazine - built with some of the right period details, it could be a real head-turner.
Square Metre Sharpie - one of the more obvious European developments from the North American sharpie working boats.
If it is cut off at the pedal crank housing and the upper frame tube cut off at the steering head, we have the makings of a Land yacht front end. I have 1 front fork and a pedal to weld than those bits can get painted and I can start doing some drawings for seats. When the front of the sail, just behind the mast, luffs or flutters in the breeze, you lose power. Can someone define aerodynamics and what would be allowed and what wouldn't in Class 5 rules. AERODYNAMICS, Fairing or other devices of an aerodynamic nature on any part of the yacht chassis are forbidden. Free radio control yacht plans and an incredible DIY yacht building book on sale for only $12nzd. The book comes with plans of hull, sails and rigging featuring the Racing Sparrow 750mm boat designed by New Zealander Bryn Heveldt. They have been for a successful maiden voyage and sail great and now just need a few tweaks in the sail department to get them sailing even better. There were areas where I had some uncertainties, some of which were assisted through the forum posts, and some of which I improvised. The website's in Italian, but has lots of pictures and best of all one of the builders and racers has published plans for their boat - and it's a lot like a large sailing Mouse, such as the Eek. Most are in the UK, but we will include some US material, not least because the author is an enthusiast for American boat types.
If the fork is then reversed in the steering head, (ie taken out and put in from the top) we then have a steering assembly that is approaching the angles required for layover steering. We even tried horizontal wings on the front forks to keep it down at speed (didn't work) the best way to turn in high winds was lean forward a bit, slacken off the jib then turn.
The book is presented in full colour throughout, using step-by-step photography and 3-dimensional illustrations.
All in all I am truly delighted with the end result and now look forward to learning to sail and enjoying many happy hours "playing". It's been going on for years apparently, but I've only just learned about it from Frank Baldry of the UK HBBR. In the old days we were not absorbing the shocks and bumps very well, but I think we are learning. Follow the diagram of sail and course adjustments using the "tell tails" to get the most performance out of the sail for all angles of sailing.
The tell tails react to air flowing over the sail and will help you see that the sail is pulled in too tight or too loosely.



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