Location: Southern Lake Michigan Internal keel reinforcement There was a post a while back about a sailboat that had an internal keel that wiggled on a Gladiator 24. If you guys could give me a reality check on how I plan to do this it would be greatly appreciated. I plan to epoxy three 1 inch thick sealed plywood floors into the keel (orange section in picture) and tab this into the interior keel surface. Location: Minnesota Jehardiman makes an excellent point but you can still use elements of your idea to good effect. You should look at doing the same between hull and floor since that location could just as easily be the source of the noise.
Ask for the Dyad brochure from soundcoat or read up on constrained layer damping elsewhere. If this fails or doesn't appeal to you, try to borrow a millitary sub from the Navy to see how they did it, they use all the tricks in the book including this one. Location: Eustis, FL Judging by the drawings you've provided, I'd say you need to center the ballast, but in a fashion not locking it down to the hull. It's likely the hull is built strong enough to tolerate the sloppiness of the casting to hull fit. Location: Southern Lake Michigan keel Thanks to all for your thoughts so far. I have to admit, I was miss led by the drawing, showing an air gap or space around the casting, of course thinking that was what was moving.
My first efforts would be to empty the boat of everything that's not bolted down snuggly (I mean everything, anchors, spare line, rode, etc.) and have someone else rock her while I was below looking and using a probe (wooden dowel held to the ear and to the surface of areas I think the noise may be coming from) The dowel in the ear trick is a very good way to track internal noises quickly (it get progressively louder as you near the source) ask any auto mechanic.
I took a very quick look at the site listed above and there is a message board with many references to your first generation Cal 25. I use to have a 35' Choy Lee (Arthur Robb design) that made a noise in the keel area, similar to what you describe. Regarding your suggestion: I guess I'm having hard time explaining what what we're looking at or I'm considering. Location: Eustis, FL I'll bet the most competitive in the racing fleet(s) have addressed this issue, thinking (and rightly so) that it would have to improve things, even just a small amount.
A couple nights ago I had a conversation with the owner of (now shutdown) Calgan Marine of Vancouver.
All this being said, I think I'm coming down on the side of leaving it alone for the time being. When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. When choosing a boat cover for your boat (You ARE planning on covering your boat aren't you?), the two main considerations are fit and fabric (material). If you plan to trailer, store or moor your boat, semi-custom boat covers are a good choice.
An acrylic-coated polyester cover, like Sharkskin Plus will give you increased UV resistance, plus a big boost in water repellency. I used a tarpaulin the year before last result: boat full of water and leaves and bilge pump needed replacing in no time. Thanks for sharing such a nice article.There are really a shortage of good article like this.
Thanks for the useful tips, I will make notice of them when I choose a boat cove for myself. Meade Gougeon installed the original hatches on his Gougmaran, but he wasn’t convinced he had selected the ideal locations. He decided to install his hatches with WEST SYSTEM® epoxy thickened to a mayonnaise- like viscosity with 410 Microlight Filler.


After removing the first of two hatches, Meade felt that his goal of easier hardware removal had been realized. Apply mold release to the parts of the hatch frame that are not being glued down to assist in removing residual cured epoxy later. Brush a 4–5 mil coating of thickened epoxy to the deck around the perimeter of the opening (Photo 4). Position the hatch over the opening and press it into place, squeezing out any excess epoxy (Photo 5).
Clean off excess epoxy from the perimeter of the flange with a sharpened wood stir stick or use one of the molded plastic 804 Reusable Mixing Sticks that already have a chisel point feature (Photo 7).
4—Brush a 4–5 mil coating of thickened epoxy to the deck around the perimeter of the opening. 5—Position the hatch over the opening and press it into place, squeezing out any excess epoxy. 7—Clean off excess epoxy from the perimeter of the flange with the flat end of an 804 Reusable Mixing Stick.
This entry was posted in Modifying and Customizing and tagged 25, Epoxyworks #25, Gougmarans, hatch, installing hatch, removable hatch, Summer 2007, Tom Pawlak on February 17, 2015 by ewadmin. Alright boys, I don't have any pics of the crawdad fully outfitted with motors, DF, etc but here's a few pics of the building process.
Seats with homemade mounts, custom made aluminum plate on the front with a block welded to it to attach the trolling motor to, underneath it there was storage for some stuff, carpet covered floors. Would any of you know if those molded black metal brakets, the ones the seats are attached too can be purchased?? The paint probably won't come off clean so to save time and effort it is better to paint with the same thing she had.
I was not clear on exactly what you were explaining but this is what I came up with.It looks pretty good so far. If you wish to add more photos (or videos) to your post or if you have any problems loading photos use the link below (there is no need to resize or adjust your photos). So, before selecting your photo please use the 'Message Box' to indicate to which post the photos belong. Here you could fit a vinyl pocket and then fill it with Bondo or something but it would be hard to reverse. Basically it's flopping around a bit while under way and I'd be thinking about some well placed blobs of 3M 5200 around the sides and front and back of the casting. As you describe it, a wobble, this would drive me nuts, especially if I was near the front of the fleet.
I've seen mystery noises and wobbles when things get between the liner and hull in a void and roll around. A looser, non-form-fitting cover (can you say tarp), they are designed to protect a wide range of boat shapes and sizes, and are typically the least expensive option. Designed to fit a wide variety of boats with similar styles, shapes and characteristics (bass boats, deck boats, runabouts, tournament ski boats), semi-custom covers have a moderate fit, with additional material to accommodate accessories or small size differences between makes and models. Depending on the weather in your neck of the woods, the right fabric can make the difference between a cover that protects your boat for years and one that comes undone like Shaq at the free throw line. Providing good breathability, these covers are not recommended for wet areas, but they will give you some UV protection. The most popular material for semi-custom boat covers due to their high general durability, not to mention their modest price, they are best suited for cool, dry climates.
The original floorboards (a 2'X2' carpet covered square of particle board in front of each seat) were just about rotten, so I figured it was time for an upgrade. One piece of frame is broken and the plywood is broken.I think you can see it on the picture.


I'd perform the same routine with the mast and it's rigging removed as well, in fact, I'd do this first with the rig completely stripped off the boat and ashore. It didn't do it all the time and had me baffled for a while, until I remembered that I'd run her hard aground all standing a few weeks earlier. A custom cover will accommodate the boat's size, shape, and options, with a variety of reinforcements. One hundred percent marine-grade acrylic allows the fabric to be not only water-resistant, but breathable, while producing above average strength. There had to be a better way, one that would allow hardware to be easily removed yet seal out water.
The trim ring bottom edge had grooves to help bedding compounds adhere and assist in sealing out water.
After removing all of the mounting screws, he was delighted to find that if he just lifted up on one of the corners of the hatch, the whole thing came away with little effort (Photo 1). The polyurethane will be flexible enough to permit some movement, but keep it from banging back and forth.
This would insure it's in the boat and not the mast or compression post pumping sideways in the step or something. This shouldn't wobble and if it was the fin, you have to have stress cracks or other signs of movement. Have you had someone rock the boat while you have your head in the hole at the top of the fin? Again, if you plan on trailering, storing, or mooring your boat, a custom cover is a great choice. He did have some concern about the differing coefficients of thermal expansion for the plastic trim ring and the plywood deck. All the epoxy originally used to install the hatch was left on the deck with an exact molded profile of the bottom edge intact. This was a CCA style hull (built down rather than the fin of yours) and the castings were bedded in concrete which had lost contact with the keel sides.
If you've set up shop in an area that gets heavy rainfall, or your boat sits under snow, your primary concern will be the cover's strength, weight and resistance to penetrating water. Obviously, the bond between the plastic flange and the epoxy was not very strong, but it was adequate to not allow any leaks over the two years of service.
Under load (heeling) the 'glass would deform because the casting was moving around in the keel, which would clunk every so often. And while no material will meet every need in all scenarios of weather, care and use, you should be able to choose one that meets most of your needs. You're not trying to pull a bead, rather fill the void in a localized area at spots around the casting. Loading wouldn't be transferred (not much anyway) and if you felt this was an issue you could slip a piece of wax paper between the hull and casting before you squeeze in a blob of goo.
I was faced with removing the several ballast pieces or this fix, which worked fine as long as I had the boat and I sailed her hard most of the time, because she was so much fun on her ear. Personally, I'd want to be as close to or better yet in contact with (my hand or bare foot) the area that is wobbling, so I could get a better understanding what's going on. This would be left for a week or so to allow the cure to complete and then could be removed.
This year I hope to add some rod holders and other goodies to make it ready for some flathead action.



Rent paddle boats branson mo youtube
Boats for sale in upstate new york city
Ferry boat west palm beach bahamas
How to build a lego cargo boat designs


Comments to “Sealing plywood boat floor tiles”

  1. Bakinocka  writes:
    Sources Used : There are earlier than using a syringe to inject.
  2. kisa  writes:
    Bodyarmor made with the pull tops her small cockpit, while not waterproof.
  3. SEBINE  writes:
    Get the boat looking this.
  4. LINKINPARK  writes:
    Would not weigh a lot but I have some that.