Location: Pretoria South Africa Outboard is the way to go, absolutely no question about that. Location: NW I'd like to pile on here and say the more I learn about boats the more I like outboards. Originally Posted by Mike Nickerson 4' beam on a 24' boat is a bit narrow to my way of thinking. Such a simple fact is often overlooked by many who just want to change the size of a boat they like by X amount. Originally Posted by flathead65 I suppose Sneakeasy would better suit my needs at 26' loa x 4' beam?
This is one of my riverboat designs and it hits all your requirements easily, with sufficient stability and internal volume to offer reasonable accommodations. To keep proportions correct if Tennessee is 29' x 6' then a 24' version should have a 4.96' beam so I see that I was naive in contemplating a 4' beam. With a gas bike engine the engine and shaft mounted on the stern as used all over the Orient would seem the logical power installation.
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. John's Sharpie is based on the design of an old New England work boat, updated to provide an 18 foot boat that is a spirited day sailer and an able camp cruiser.
These plans and manual contain sufficient information on the cutting of the panels to make it possible to build the boat from scratch.
Canada Src I suppose Sneakeasy would better suit my needs at 26' loa x 4' beam?
Of course it's outboard powered, which saves a lot of internal space and decreases draft, plus greatly improves maneuverability, but you could use an inboard if desired.


Its stitch-and-glue construction produces a lightweight hull, while the two cockpit design adds strength and stiffness and provides seating for up to four adults. The forward cockpit has two braced seating positions one on either side of the dagger board case: the rest of the cockpit is flat and un-impeded like the aft cockpit. The manual describes all of the techniques that will be used during the building and also a step by step guide to construction. Forty inches is enough chine beam if you have a disciplined and sober crew and all weights are kept as low as practical. I have some small amount of experience, with just this type of cruiser and making her stiff on a shallow, narrow hull form, is quite difficult. That 8 HP Honda would be hard pressed to do much with a contrary current and headwind, but it could putter her along on a dead flat lake. I should be able to design a hull to suit my needs as opposed to endlessly searching for a boat plan that doesn't exist.
Since the Sharpie uses a daggerboard, it is easily beached and, if fitted with boom tents, it can comfortably camp-cruise for two.
Lots of good reasons for opting for the outboard rather than the B&S or other stationary motor.
Bolger also warned (in regard to his narrow cruiser designs) that they were very weight sensitive and couldn't tolerate tall deck structure additions. I do have a 440cc engine based on the Honda GX390 that makes in excess of 20hp and weighs less than 70 lbs.
The Sharpie is a superb performer without the complications of a racing boat: it is light enough to be beached by two people whilst being capable of accommodating four.
The kit is sold without any seating so that you can configure the accommodation how you want it.


The Outboard eliminates a whole lot of problems, one of which is dealing with an exhaust system which will cost a plenty because it needs to be made of stainless with a water cooling jacket.
Steering with an underpowered straight shaft like that will test your skippering skills too. Kohlers, Briggs, and other motors of that sort vibrate a lot more than a decent outboard and they are much, much, noisier. Provided I could keep the stem plumb I think this would be fine and the bottom would have a calculated rocker that would perform properly as described in the thread. The cat ketch rig is fast to set up and easy to sail – tacking requires only a push of the tiller.
Think of the possibility or accidentally running over some guys trot line, pot warp, or other flotsam. I do want a displacement or semi displacement hull with adequate rocker to keep the keel and prop tucked up out of the way.
I am however wanting a boat with all the attributes of Bolger's state series designs with their plumb stems and slab sided elements.
Between the two I will gain the knowledge to design and build my own boat and not have to rely on plans as I never have in the past.



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