Ok well thats fair enough, im party against using epoxy as well as its not something easily available in the UK. Look for the 6 hour canoe book, or some of the old Cajun Batteau plans, they're simple boats and were built well before epoxy and 'glass.
I used PL Premium, but as Gib said a waterproof carpenters glue and screws would work just fine. If you are going to omit epoxy then you will need rot resistant wood and quality corrosion proof fasteners. Roofing tar or exterior slow drying silicone-latex caulk will seal well and unlike adhesives will allow disassembly for invasive repair later on and will not be brittle like epoxy or polyurethane resins. The reason that silicone-latex caulk warns against use below the waterline is because it will not cure when wet and they are referring to under waterlines on basements that will never be dry and therefore never allow the caulk to cure. Fast drying caulk or acrylic-latex caulk will shrink while drying and may become brittle over time, and interior caulk will degrade too fast and may not even be fully waterproof, so these are not to be used. I once met a man who paid over $10 per board foot for old growth cedar for a heavy edge nailed strip planked canoe and then sealed it like a tomb by putting fiberglass and epoxy inside and out hoping to protect it.
I've done exactly that, twice, for a 15ft and an 18ft-er, and posted construction threads on this Forum. Watermelon, you referred to epoxy as heavy chemicals, granted you need to be reasonably careful when using epoxy, but the small amount you would use in scarfing a joint really only require rubber gloves and common sense. Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't build a Macgregor sailing canoe using the skin-on-frame style of construction? I strongly considered building a skin on frame version myself once--but I decided I really, really enjoy the woodworking aspect of trad. If the boat is to be sailed, torsional stiffness will become a big issue and the Monfort 'Geodesic' diagonal strapping is a good solution. Dave G., or anyone, would you mind giving me a rundown on the different skin options, with their pros and cons?
I am building an SOF kayak at the moment and am planning to avoid the vinyl over weight issues. For my geodesic aerolite 14 I used heat shrunk dacron over the varnished frame and then rolled on 2 coats of bog-standard water based undercoat to fill the weave. Then I shot 4 coats of the same water based acrylic floor varnish over everything, plus another coat inside. I'm in the traditional lapstrake camp myself but as I get older and my favorite canoe gets heavier and heavier (I don't know what's up with that??) those SOF Macgregor types look better and better. Robert Baker and his Piccolo canoe have a easy straight forward setup for a sailing option without decks.
Skinning options include nylon, polyester, canvas, vinyls and various less common things like hypalon, shrink wrap, leather, linen, or whatever.
Personally, I prefer 8-9 oz polyester these days, for its ease of use and quick wrinkle removal with the application of heat. As for the transparent vinyl, you can just pull hard on it while fastening it to the gunwales (an extra pair of hands is nice!) and this gets out the wrinkles just fine.
For flexible skin tough enough to drag over barnacle beaches here, I used 14 oz dacron and squeegeed 3m 5200 into the weave with a stiff plastic squeegee.
After building a couple of Monfort geodesic canoes, I found the common polyurethane over dacron or nylon to be pretty fragile. They all work , though the aircraft dacron is suitable for very light careful use as one barnacle scrape will cause a leak . The best skin materials overall are nylon and polyester, George Dyson is the man to buy from . To Pandelume -- the MacGregor can be built as a sailing option without decking over the ends, but it is not a good idea. PaddlingLight offers many canoe and kayak plans for cedar-strip, skin-on-frame and Yost-style building methods.


If you build a kayak from these plans, please, send a picture so we can add it to the plan’s page. Copyright notice: These drawings are copyrighted and may not be reproduced without permission.
An all-around, mid-sized British-style sea kayak suits a kayaker looking for a boat with good initial stability that is easy to edge and quick to turn.
A cabin canoe for the kid’s to play with or a traditional-style solo canoe for wilderness tripping. Go light; the lighter the better, so that you have the simplest material for health, comfort and enjoyment. Description: The Siskiwit Bay MC  is all-around fast mid-sized British-style touring kayak designed for plywood building. Bryan Hansel is a freelance writer, award-winning photographer and an American Canoe Association L4 Open Water Coastal Kayaking Instructor. You have to make sure your panels are set to be developable in the layer menu, and you should also make sure that your error rate is low.
I wish to build a kayak that’s easy to turn, must roll (low profile aft deck) and have some speed . I can’t get my version of AutoCAD LT to work on this computer (windows 7) so I downloaded a DXF viewer.
James, I couldn’t get the pdf to print correctly, because the paper size is too long. Like many people who get bitten by the boat building bug, I decided I had to have a go at a SOF kayak. The BK18 is a very beamy, very stable open deck style kayak reminiscent of the old time folding kayaks.
All in all I'm impressed and would recommend the BK18 to any one looking for a large, roomy, stable SOF canoe for camping, exploring or just plain messing about.
The plans come with additional sheets for a sailing rig that from all reports works quite well.
To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions. This would be a chine log, and in a small enough dimension would bend just fine without too much effort. MDO plywood (Not to be confused with MDF!), locally available decking lumber (except white cedar; good rot resistance but fragile) for framing, stainless nails, and coated hard galvanized decking screws will be reasonable choices.
The paint on the outside of the boat keeps water out, and any that does get in is allowed out by the oil, which repels most water but still allows the wood to breathe. If you're going to join 2 sheets of plywood, you might as well make the boat that long -- my 2 cents.
It's a bit lightweight for hard use (lots of abrasion), IMO, though I think it's just right for a solo canoe or kayak. That boat belongs to my uncle now, so I don't know how it's doing, but others who have used this material report that it has held up well for over 3 years now.
It is not completely smooth so it won't take any honors as a show dog but it's tough as can be. Permission is granted for an individual to use these drawings to build boats for personal use, but any commercial use, including but not limited to building for commercial gain, including plans in a compilation, such as but not limited to compilations on a book, DVD, pdf, zip file or website, must be approved prior to the use and requires written permission. If you shop at that online store, PaddlingLight gets a small commission from the sale and it doesn't cost you any more. It offers information about lightweight canoe and kayak travel, how-to articles, trip reports, adventure stories, kayak plans, canoe plans and reviews.
This kayak suits a medium to heavy paddler looking for good initial stability and with increased flare above the waterline lots of secondary stability. The SB was originally designed as a multi-chined boat for plywood building using the excellent HULLS software.


I converted in centimetres and as it looks like the first column contains x axis coordinates and the second one, y axis coordinates. I’m a professional boat builder (fiberglass, ranging between 64-151ft) and have been dying to get into plywood boat construction. If I print the DXF at 100:1 will that allow me to spray-glue them down to MDF and have full scale patterns? It seems like the first reports are coming in on the builder forum and this sea kayak sounds like it paddles as well as the cedar strip version.
After talking to many people on one hell of a lot of E-groups and forums I was directed to Clark Craft and the BK18 by Windwalker from the Backwoods_Epitaph e-group. I probably went overboard with the number of coats of paint I gave it but I do tend to over-do things at times. I tried it out against a mate's U-beaut Plastic Kayak and the BK18 out paddles it [much to the mates disgust], but then again the 17 ft length of the BK18 over the 15 ft length of the mates plastic kayak may have something to do with that as well. I did build the sailing rig but for some reason every time I fit it to the kayak the wind dies immediately.
Dry fit everything before gluing up and leave the screws in so you can line the parts up quickly once the glue is applied since it sets up pretty quickly. They are often quick and easy to build, and the boat will be much lighter, and you can certainly get a much better hull shape with SOF than these slab sided plywood canoes (some of which work just fine, of course). The most popular designs include the Siskiwit LV, Siskiwit Bay, the Iggy and the Modern Malecite. If you want a copy, you’ll need to show previous builds and present a building schedule.
We promote self-direction by emphasizing the do-it-yourself culture, and we believe growing paddlesport participation advances wilderness protection.
I’ve taken the original file and used Delftship Pro to clean it up and fair the lines.
The only problem is that now I have yet another boat to add to my list of boats to consider building!
I’ll be interested in seeing if the multi-chine hull retains the same charm as the rounded version.
It makes a very stable fishing platform and is probably the easiest kayak to paddle for the effort that I've used while still being stable enough for me to stay upright [I have paddled easier kayaks but couldn't stay upright long enough to enjoy the ride].
As a trial I had a go at standing up in it and was able to do so without taking a swim which is no mean feat for some one of my size and lack of balance. This is probably a good thing as my past attempts at sailing have all resulted in me ending up in the water with a very nasty bruise on my head. The vinyls - transparent or not - have the advantage that they don't need a separate coating. Twenty-five of the plans are a part of the Winter 2010 to 11 Free Canoe and Kayak Plan Project and many have yet to see a builder. Part of our mission is promoting the protection and preservation of our federal, state and local lands. I’m going to begin construction within the next week or two and take detailed pictures and notes for you. I ended up having to order a painters drop sheet as the only means of getting canvas that wasn't going to break the budget. Keep it painted and store it under cover when not in use and it will last for a very long while. I rang every supplier that I could find but no go and I ended up ordering direct from ClarkCraft in the USA.



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