Hi folks, my name is Dexter Barnett and I'm a third-generation sailor and woodworking boat craftsman.
There are many who can appreciate the classic look of a wooden boat and are advocates for wooden boat restoration. The amount of work that wooden boat restoration requires depends on the status of the craft. If you happen to find a particular person that offers the best tips on your wooden boat restoration project you can check out their profile and send them a private message asking for more information.
WBRF offers Saturday workshops for those who want to learn about wooden boat construction and restoration.
Cost is $75 per Saturday and includes: Instruction, gratuity of instructor, shop expenses, materials, and use of larger tools. Location: maine Skin-on Frame Kayak Building Jig The idea of building a skin-on-frame kayak has been on my mind for some time. Here's the benefit of using this process: The steamed ash ribs are pushed down into place, caged in already by the stringers. This means the stringers have already defined the hull's shape, as if one might go on to build a plywood boat.
It would be difficult to go wrong setting up the ash ribs, since their shape is determined by the stringers, and simple spring clamps can be used to hold them until dry. The rib tops are first trimmed (if necessary, though I intend to pre-cut them to exact measurements, using steel banding for obtaining length).
Location: Minneapolis,MN, USA I like the way you are thinking Alan, I also have been toying with using a female type building jig.
Location: maine It's heartening to hear since I've already begun building the strongback.
I have been searching the web for some indication that a female mold has been or is being used, but nothing so far. Because the amount of material in a skin boat is so cheap, I'm looking at what labor could be saved as well in order to produce a tremendous value for a buyer. Location: maine I only see lashings used on virtually every SOF kayak on the web, but I have the feeling other methods of frame fastening have been used in the past. I look forward to your tally of hours spent and what you believe would be the target with a honed procedure. Rick W Guest625101138 View Public Profile View Guest625101138's Gallery Find all posts by Guest625101138 Page 1 of 7 1 234567 > « Lapstrake sharpies?
When making potentially dangerous or financial decisions, always employ and consult appropriate professionals. Location: maine Ash or spruce are preferred up here in Maine, and I'd recommend spruce for strength to weight. I've made canoe paddles but oars (which are one of this winter's projects) are very easy to make with a little knowhow. A pair of very straight-grained 2x6s chosen from a pile at the lumber yard will set you back only a few dollars. A power plane can make short work of the blade shaping, though a taqble saw can also get the job done (I would use a table saw).
Cut the oar blanks out of the plank first, then with the pieces left over, glue them to the shaft of the oar to thicken and strengthen. Then use the Leather and the Ring oar locks, or in one set of plans they modified the boat to recieve the oars. LazyJacks idea is to start right out with a 2" board, which leaves you with cutting and shaping, skipping the gluing part of the process. Location: maine Good idea to use a 1x6 and save the scrap for the laminated shafts.
In the case of oars, I think flat-sawn rather than quarter-sawn will be less likely to split down the line. Location: Arlington, WA-USA I have made a number of paddles, both canoe and doubled ended kayak, out of red cedar, doug fir and western hemlock.
For quieter oars (and paddles) I suggest consider using a higher aspect ratio blade design (length to width ratio) and making the tip elliptical shape (rounded), and have both faces smooth arcs (no rib down the center) with rounded edges (no square edges).
I walked the whole store looking for ideas to build Oarlocks and Sockets out of that would be quiet. There is no advantage if you keep the oars out of the weather anyway, especially if you keep a good quality finish on it, which also acts to preserve the wood.
Originally Posted by thudpucker Well, I did kinda mis-understand LazyJacks photos to be links. Spruce is what most dimensiional lumber is made from, at lowes and Home Depot, and elsewhere. I work in carpentry every day and I often see clear and perfect 2x spruce lumber emerging out of piles of knotty planks.
Pine is weaker than spruce, unless southern pine, which is seldom found for sale untreated.


Location: Marshfield massachusetts usa oar stock I work at a fence company, and built some oars out of white cedar. I'm new around here - having just bumped into the forum this evening - but want to share something.
The story so far: starting out from complete scratch, I've started building myself a very small wooden boat. Below I've included some pictures of my progress, as well as my 'plans', which are really just a quick sketch. I plan to make matching oars for the boat, and possibly add an electric trawling motor, which should propel it at a good clip. In terms of actual construction, I've used Spanish Cedar (Cedrela odorata) and African Mahogany (Khaya ivorensis). I'd love to hear if anyone has comments or questions, and I'll try to keep this thread up to date with any developments, but the weather is still a few weeks away from cooperating with me. Location: Eustis, FL If that blue line does represent the immersed volume it would be in the 700 to 800 pound range which is so over loaded it'll swamp in anything other then a still swimming pool. I was pretty satisfied with the projected displacement - but ultimately have no experience. Location: Brisbane What would make you think that a boat less than 10 feet, built of light wood, would weigh in over 600 lbs?
If you plan on rowing this puppy, build as light as you can and trim the boat with the transom clear of the water. There is only one problem: you're getting me all excited to try it out, and it isn't ready yet! Location: Eustis, FL Your trolling motor will only push the boat to about 4 knots which is within it's displacement speed envelop, meaning yep, the transom should just clear or be slightly kissing the water underway.
You will not really have an idea of how things will work until you splash her and preform some trials under power and oar. The boat is now outside (has been for a week or two - hasn't turned into a mass of splinters due to humidity, either) and I've started all the messy stuff. In the coming weeks I'll be adding trim, gunnels, etc., then flipping it over and doing seats and the like.
Keep in mind that it'll be 'dry sailed' (only in the water a few hours at a time) and that I want to keep as much water as possible away from my adhesives. Location: maine Polyurethane, by your description, that which is used to cover floors, and which is clear rather than being a paint, is not thicker than varnish. Assuming you want to get a clear finish, the varnish has a UV protective additive that won't be found in the polyurethane. You could lay down some plyurethane and protect it with varnish but why go to asll that trouble when varnish alone will do the job? Then you'll have more protection from the sun, which quickly turns polyurethane to a yellow hazy powder.
If you start with spar varnish, (as it is properly called), you'll have to do at least 6 coats and probably 8. It's your boat, however, so varnish away if you must, but be aware you're making a purse from a sow's ear, which is fine, but you may want to know the truth, and save a few dozen hours of hard labor. Location: Eustis, FL Polyurethanes cure much faster then traditional varnishes.
To be honest, I'd been trying to stay clear of epoxy, but I guess I'll be giving it another look now. I like the suggestion of epoxying the hull and inside bottom, and then finishing with another clear finish. Why a new wooden boat in the 21st Century?To own a newly built wooden boat is a novel experience in the modern world. I'm lucky to have an opportunity to combine my love of sailing with my love of woodworking into a business of restoring old boats.
Some of the best wooden boats that offer the most beauty happen to be those antique ones that were brought back to life through wooden boat restoration. One way to find out how much work is involved in the wooden boat restoration of a particular craft is to take a photo of it and post it in a forum. Workshops are run by experienced shipwrights and cover a wide range of building and restoration techniques. Connecticut Looks like your idea should really take time out of the process. Maybe If I find a good enough piece I'll waste some Epoxy and glue two pieces together and test them for strength. There's lots of things to use, but buying standard bronze circle locks and sockets would be just as cheap and a lot less labor. I have a little project going that might be appreciated around here - or, quite possibly, picked to pieces!.
Really, there is nothing in my past to indicate I'm capable of doing such a thing, but, being a little bull-headed when it comes to looking things up like a responsible person would, I've just plowed ahead at pretty much full steam.


I've actually got the entire haul planked over the frame (such as it is) and am now ready to do some finishing.
I'll probably use some white ash as well, as I can get it locally in long lengths and for a good price.
I'd done a very rough calculation (ignoring both the rake of the sides and the curve of the bottom) to determine the displacement.
It is also misleading in that the actual boat is closer to 9 feet long, as that let me build without having to scarf any of the planks.
All this will take a while, but I've started to think more seriously about how to finish the boat as well.
Spar Varnish is regular varnish, but with more UV inhibitors, which makes it appear with a more amber glow on wood. I know someone who has built several stitch and glue kit boats, and am familiar with the basic principles of epoxying a boat. Butler & Co's skills, art and craftmanship are used to construct new wooded boats to last another hundred years.
These were quick, cheap, uncomplicated, practical methods of boat construction using sawn English Oak framing and best quality planking. Inspired by historic British working cutters, we construct and restore authentic wooden boats from the Old Mill Boatyard in Dartmouth, Devon. It's almost like working with a piece of history as I strip away the old varnish and slowly begin the process of bringing the old beauty back to life. Fiberglass boats just will not show off what the wonders of maritime adventures have to offer.
Wooden boat fans hang out on the internet and they are eager to reply with posts that show how much they know about wooden boat restoration. Having someone with great knowledge about wooden boat restoration on your team can make the work go by quickly. From there you can complete your wooden boat restoration project by sanding down the old finish, filling in any cracks, and applying the varnish and sealant. Currently WBRF is offering a workshop in East Haddam CT but is looking to expand these workshops to other locations. There is one more option locally where they sell Rough-cut Pine that is treated and guarenteed for life. I'm a pretty heavy guy at around 210lb, but even with another passenger and a bit of lunch (plus the boat, which is pretty light) it should be OK in calm water.
Does this advise remain the same when using an electric trawling motor, or is it specific to rowing? Polyurethanes are generally superior to regular varnish in moisture protection (by a few percent), but are harder to repair or touch up when the time comes. Regular varnish is a different animal and application is more of an art form, subject to lots of debate, technique and methods. The builders used straightforward, well-practiced skills, techniques, tools and craftmanship. So, join me while I post some of my articles and photos and we take a journey together -- restoring boats! The truth is that wooden boat restoration is not a hard project; it just takes having the right information. They can tell you every single thing you need to do for your particular wooden boat restoration project. They may even refer you to a professional who can give you a quote for the wooden boat restoration work. He said I could lay it on the ground and build a house on it and it would outlast everyone in my family. You might need to build a motor mount that is vertical or raked aft to get decent performance from the motor.
I think I came up with about 600 lbs (so, you're pretty much right on the money there PARR - especially when you consider I ignored the fact the boat gets wider near the top). 600lb was the figure I came up with for how much weight (boat plus cargo) it would take to bring the waterline half way up the sides of the boat, not how much I projected the boat would weigh. It has also been suggested to me that I use spar varnish, as it will go on a lot thinner, won't run so bad and setup quicker too. The results were boats that were incredibly seaworthy, easy to manage under sail, strong and tremendously durable - the many still around today are indeed witness to their success!
It is these practical, traditional woodworking skills that Butler & Co keep alive in their vessels.



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