Some of the beauty of a wooden boat comes from intelligent and elegant attention to finish and color schemes.
The inboard is painted a pale grey to cut down dazzle from the sun, but the seats are white to break up the grey. The little glued-lap sailboat I'm building will be varnish inside, white paint outside except for a stained and varnished shearstrake. For the larger boats I've built in the past, a white hull with buff decks is what I prefer. Brightsides Seattle Gray topsides, Petit Dark Gray boot (not sure of the color name), Micron traditional red bottom, varnished teak caprail, cabin sides, & cockpit coaming. I quite love this green color with perhaps a light or white sheer strake and maybe a small amount of bright. We think these oar plans and patterns will create not only superior wooden rowing oars for your classic small boat, but a woodworking project that's as satisfying as any project can be. Plans for oars may be found in various boatbuilding books and magazine articles, but they are usually only suited for experts who can visualise how to transfer architectural drawings to a square blank of wood. John Harris spent six months designing, prototyping and documenting the assembly and shaping of elegant traditional rowing oars. The oars aren't spoon-blades, which are very difficult to make, but they have so much refinement in shape that the spoon-blade feature isn't missed, and these are perfect for traditional smallcraft of all types.
Construction starts with the selection of suitable timber (which will probably be laminated in two or three layers to reach the necessary thickness).
Builders with less woodworking experience will benefit from using these full-size computer-cut plywood templates and patterns to make it easy to transfer the subtle shapes to the lumber.
I fancy that the reason may be that cobles were, and are, normally built by eye, as most British working boats were. This looks like a much more practical boat than the working cobles which were designed to be hauled stern first onto a beach and which seemed to lack the skeg shown in Welshford's design.


Yep, in the original cobles rudders had to be unshipped and the boat rowed (backward as I recall) to the shore for beaching. Your National Australian Library has one if you're anywhere near it, or could send it to your local library?
Do you know, apart from the reserve buoyancy, the tumble home is there to roll the boats over on the beach. I would love to hear about handling a real Coble - I imagine that their unusual features caused some quirks. Having owned and fished from a real Coble, what do you think of the some of the Coble-alike small boat plans like the ones from Selway-Fisher? To get WoodenBoat delivered to your door or computer, mobile device of choice, etc, click WB Subscriptions.
I have no idea whose boat this is, but it is a sister ship to mine, which I just started restoring. We all need oars for our small boats and these plans will make it possible for the average woodworker to produce a beautiful pair of oars from scratch.
This is often daunting or insurmountable for an otherwise worthy woodworker, which is why these plans come with a detailed step-by-step manual and optional plywood templates. These oars are ideal for any fixed-seat hull from a 7-foot dinghy to a performance pulling boat as well as everything in between.
Builders lay out the oar's shape, or trace the pattern, and use a saw to rough-cut the blank to shape. Armed with the manual and a couple of planks of spruce or the like, an experienced builder will soon have a very efficient and attractive pair of rowing oars. There are drawings and lines plans taken off existing boats for the purposes of documentation, rather than for use as building plans. There's bits on info in the other books mentioned but this book is purely on English Coble design, build and construction, reasons and whys.


The tumble home means that the angle and effort is greatly reduced and the weight of the boat is supported on the thwart as it rolls nor the gunwale. Its out of print, and wasn't produced in big numbers, so you'll have to hunt for it like a man on a mission, in second hand bookshops. Always loved it because it made the boat stand our from the typical while with blue stripe you see over and over. We had all ready talked about it and my wife really wanted to stay with the red and white theme and I agreed. Its a boatbuilders book, not a coffee table book, written by a boat builder, from a study by Hill who studied many of Britains beach boats in detail before they were replaced by motor vessels.
Its fascinating and arguably these boats were the most highly developed shallow draft beach working boats in the UK. Try Abe books, or Fisher Nautical etc, but in Australia, that Library copy might be your best bet. Mass-produced oars require thick handles (which tire the hands on long rows) so that the lathe they are made on can hold them. The original ones were built pretty light and lean for sail n oar, only later did they get heavy and wider, and tunnel hulled once heavy engines were put in them and they became motor vessels like many Britsh workboats.
The deep forefoot grips the water and they land in surf backwards, keeping them tracking straight up the beach. The deep forefoot keeps them head to wind and waves when line fishing: they don't fall off downwind.
While your at it, McKee wrote another monograph on clinker construction thats also worth getting, for explicit detail on clinker construction.



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