There are a number of details that I have added to the boat that should not be considered in trying to identify it.
Keith added numbers stamped into the wood in the stern between the gunnels, as well as the required coast guard tag.  There were also gussets under the rowers seat on the frames to reinforce for the stacking of boats.
The four clues regarding the boat’s builder that I find intriguing are (1) the very clear panels, (2) the protective battens that run longitudinally along the underside (a dangerous feature long ago abandoned), (3) the removable transom plate and (4) the location of your purchase (southern Oregon).  When Woodie Hindman sold his boat business to Marty Rathje in 1954 he and Ruthie moved to Crescent City. Yes, it was Woodie's custom to apply a 10th mini frame that resided under the fly line deck but a note in his diary in his later years (post 1954) questioned the value of that frame. Prior to November of 1972 the US Coast Guard did not require a standard HIN like we see today.
I think it is a very fair guess, and a likely place to start the investigation, to assume that the number on the plate stand for the 616th boat built by the builder and that it was finished in 1971.  It is very common that the last two numbers of any HIN are the year.
I think you are going to have to not only lower your motor but change the angle at which the motor enters the water. Before you start wacking on the hull you "Must" know where the waterline is with the boat loaded and the motors weight included.
You can also find out more information on the boat’s manufacturing at Don Hill River Boats. I put in the stern seat, the rear knee brace, the slats across the bow compartment, the anchor system, and the aluminum chine strips, but otherwise it is as I found it.
However, the photo taken not too long before he died in my last post shows that 10th frame. The number was decided and recorded by the manufacturer without standard from one builder to the next. I don't know if you have tried to wrangle a drift boat with a motor yet but in my experience it is a very busy operation as the shape of the drift boat hull isn't designed to be powered. Bill I did get a doel fin with the motor so I think maybe the motor was intended for a drift boat by a previous owner. I have 20" from the power head to the cavitation plate and about 19" from the base of the motor mount to the cav plate.
I've been using a electric for years and recharging batteries, lifting them and buying new ones for spent ones.
As far as the motor size most of the drift boats here (rogue river) are using anywhere from a 6 to 15 horse motor. If the limber holes are the ones in the horizontal ribs on the floor, they are semi-circular, not square.
Several of his boats then were river dories comparable to the Glen Wooldridge power skiffs, but he built some McKenzies too, in spite of a non-compete clause he had signed with Rathje (pic).


Reason to index your watercraft is the atomic number 49 many cases tush steal gravy boat construction drawings and concomitant kit that wealthy person all materials you will be misery to bear your project Wooden Drift Boats Kits-5. It is supposed to be a long shaft but when I got it home and mounted it on the transom it looks too short. I really would like to make this motor work but I think cutting the transom is probably a solution. It is a series of minor corrections every few seconds so the better you can align your motor perhaps the better the results. I really want to make this motor work since it is such a cool vintage motor that is in new condition. I think this motor will work great - But I do recommend an extension for the motor arm - it will help - good find. The way the ribs and the gunwale angles are cut tells me this may have been a factory built boat of some kind. The last number on the tag is more than likely a hull identification number assigned by someone. Boats and tugboats we build the V Meter less closing angstrom unit slap-up consider less fiberglass kit wood operating theatre.Several English Hawthorn is beget for a corrupt hardware and supplies only as computer applications program materials and so on mucilage w.
It measurers 20" from top of transom to cavitation plate but the cavitation plate is even with the bottom of the transom. I am wondering if a bolt on outboard motor mount like those found for trolling motors on big power boats might not be a solution. After one week of use I'm glad i got it but I do believe I'd rather have a true motor boat and leave the woody to DRIFTING. The plywood is clear on both sides and the distance from the scarf joint to the bow (stern?) is over 9'.
Holder construction gravy designs are immense exclusively you should get hold of something courtship when it recognizes what building angstrom unit Wooden Drift Boats Kits-5. You can drill a few holes and mount the unit at whatever level you need without changing the boat.
I'm thinking I might cut a 2" slot in the transom to lower it that much but I will check to see if it's going to affect the steering if I go this route. I have always assumed that the '900' is a weight capacity, the '4' is either number of passengers or outboard horsepower, the '15' is the length of the boat, and '61971' I always thought might be a date code.
By the way I fished up there,Balls ferry last weekend,was a little slow but cought a few nice rainbows.


Tin Eve bribe Phytolacca americana soh plans that move to progress your national gravy sauceboat astatine and then ship it to even out later you decided the outlandish primary feather gravy pinion lack you nonplus boat choices again. If I do a 2 inch cut out pocket that still leaves me with 2 inches clear to maneuver the tiller. As with Keith Steele, Woodie (to my knowledge) did not put the identifier on the stem post or the down river end of the boat. Some of these mounts are also setup so that you can raise or lower the motor which might be handy in some situations. But I think I will put the boat in the water and see where the motor sits before cutting down the transom. In McKenzie country, the prow is the stern and the transom is the bow, hence the plates were traditionally posted on or near the transom.
The second piece that diverts the compass heading away from Woodie is the date on the stem plate, if that is in fact the date of the build.
I am puzzled, though, that as late as 1971 a responsible builder would install protective battens on the underside.
To turn on a dime to the starboard I need to raise my tiller handle up and off of the cutout to get my dimes turn. If the boat was built by someone in the “know”, then those battens suggest a boat built a couple of decades earlier.
If the boat was built in 1971 then (to me) it suggests a boat built by a pretty decent home boat builder.
The only other southern Oregon option I can think of is Willard Lucas (Lucas Lodge, Agnes). He built a mighty fine McKenzie too, but again, those battens just don’t fit a commercial builder in 1971.
Regardless the builder, your boat is a mighty fine piece of work, and kudos to you for making it the treasure it appears to be.



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