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2) Has any converted their jointer from a pork chop to euro style guard, specifically interested in converting a G0490? After a caffeine induced manic email (that I regret already) to Stan, I was reflecting on the many dumb things that I've done on this woodworking journey. Jim Underwood describes his experiences and techniques for turning miniature acorn birdhouses.
In this document, I shall show you my method of making a miniature Acorn Birdhouse Ornament. For the body, I start with pretty much any small scrap of lighter colored wood lying around. I make sure that the jaws are securely tightened on the blank, and I leave enough of the wood next to the jaws to protect against contacting them with any tools. First a line drawn off the tool rest gives a reference upon which to center the perch and entry hole.
Then I draw a rough shape of the body on the blank and estimate where the holes for the perch and entry will be. Once the holes are drilled, I use a skew to put a small dimple in the end of the blank for the drill to start in. To hollow the birdhouse, I mount a one-inch Forstner bit into my keyless tailstock chuck, and drill into the end grain to hollow the birdhouse. You?ll want to estimate the correct depth and mark it on your drill so as not to go too far past the widest point of the birdhouse, which is generally the site of the perch.
At this point it becomes obvious, that making things the same size each time and measuring them out would speed things up. Next I mark the widest point as illustrated on the right, to help me see it while spinning. The underside of the cap should be slightly concave so that the joint between the body and the cap is tight with no big cracks showing. Get a general idea of what the shape is like, but leave plenty of meat up top, because next you?ll hollow it out, and you don?t want it to snap off before you finish.
I use a spindle gouge as illustrated to poke a hole in the top, and hollow it a good ways up, making sure I don?t go too far so as to part this thing off prematurely. On the left you can see a little more of the ?around the corner? hollowing that the gooseneck will do. If you haven?t noticed, I?m using the original piece of Walnut that I cut the top off of for the jam chuck. Right about now, I?m wishing I?d remembered to drill that hole, because this fits really well. To create a tenon on the perch that fits the hole in the body, I use a couple of small skews made from dental tools and broken off mechanics ?picky tools?.This tool is a little big, even if it is ? dia.
Put a small amount on the inside of the body, (probably too much in this picture) and slip the top into it fairly quickly and firmly before it sets and you can?t move it. I start with 20 gauge gold beading wire, available at Walmart, and a pair of beading pliers made for bending wire.
I make sure to keep the wraps tight around the spool end of the wire, and close to the previous wrap to ensure a uniform wrap. Make sure you have a pinprick made with a icepick or suitable tool in the end of the ornament to start your drill bit in before drilling the hole for the eyelet. The nations finest performing art centers are brought to life by Fetzer Architectural Woodwork.
The beautiful project is the result of an integrated solution produced by several Fetzer divisions: Fetzer Architectural Woodwork, Accent Surfaces, and Salt Lake Cabinet.


This is an urn I recently finished for a friend, he asked me to make it for his father, an avid outdoorsman. DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. I was almost literally dragged to my first few woodturning club meetings by some co-workers.
Bandsawing the blank to a size that allows this saves the step of turning a tenon while between centers.
I try to make it a clean cut that is slightly concave, so that the joint between the body and top is nice a clean, with no gap. This step could have been done after facing off, but this is the order I did it in when taking the pictures. You could use a gouge to hollow it out if you don?t have a Forstner bit and a tailstock chuck. It?s also important to ensure the tenon here is at exact right angles so the body will fit snugly against the shoulders and not come off.
The purpose of hollowing the ornament is so there?s not too much weight and it can be hung wherever one wants. I used a propane torch to give it a goose neck shape, so the tip is in line with the axis of the tool. If you think about it, a hole drilled through the center of your jam chuck now will make it easier to get the top out later- especially if you made this a tight fit.
I could have just mounted this top in my small jawed chuck since the tenon was going inside the body of the birdhouse anyway.
I first pull 5 inches of wire off of the spool, then holding the wire with the beading pliers about 2 inches from the end, I make the first loop, creating an eye. Once your wrap nears the end of the wire, it is difficult to bend the wire with your fingers, so I use the needle nose to crimp the last ? inch or so, and I then snip the completed eyelet off with the side cutters. Put a drop of super glue in the hole, and using the beading pliers insert the eyelet into the hole. The stunning design of Alice Tully Hall at the Juilliard School of Music was produced through the use of 3-D modeling and full scale mock-ups. From the backlit onyx in the reception desk to the back of house cabinets in the working areas, selecting Fetzers' for the complete package ensured Kirton McConkie received continuity and quality.
Once you understand the basics, you can vary the shape, the method of joining, and practice your technique until it?s flawless.
Techniques used in this document are my own practice, and you must use your own judgment as to whether they are appropriate for you. I suppose one could measure such things, but I prefer to estimate it by eye since every blank is different, and it would be boring to take all the guesswork out of it.
Don?t go too far though, or you?ll cut through to the bottom of your drilled hollowing cut. In this case I?m using Walnut, but I?ve used a variety of woods such as Mesquite, spalted Oak, and spalted Maple. Yes, it?s probably more secure with a tenon on it, but I figure small pieces like this aren?t much of a risk, especially with a face shield.
It gets exciting when pieces just fly off into the great unknown- otherwise known as the 3900-RPM disappearing act.
The rest should be positioned so that the support is not in the bend of the gooseneck, but in the straight portion.
Just lightly touch the leg closest to you at approximately the correct location, and when you get the diameter right scribe the line.


The other method of getting the top off the jam chuck is to turn the outside of the jam chuck smaller than the largest diameter of the top, so you can grasp the top and pull it out. I find it to be rather snug so I tend to twist the eyelet into the hole using the wraps somewhat like screw threads to help it twist in.
Additionaly, Fetzers' provided recommendations regarding woodwork that made this project striking. I realized, though, after taking pictures of this step, that there was a quicker way to do this, and I?ll mention it when we get there.
I tapered this slightly so that when the body is held up to the spinning jam chuck, it burns a line right at the correct diameter to fit the body on tightly. In the figure below left I am showing how to mark the size of the tenon with the burn line from the body.
Push the gouge straight into the center with the flutes at a 45 to horizontal, and then sweep the tip to the left in a scraping cut.
Once again, I noticed after taking pictures how I could have saved a step? More about that coming up. It?s very important while doing this to keep the leg of the dividers that is farthest from you OFF OF THE PIECE! I sight across the chisel and bed ways to ensure the mortise has straight parallel sides, and plunge straight in.
I have two sets of beading pliers, one of which is an antique, that I?ve grown used to and use them almost exclusively. Using the beading pliers makes this much easier, and also prevents fingers from being permanently attached to the eyelet and ornament. The lighter walnut sapwood featured in the entry distinguish Kirton McConkie from any other law firm.
Read the safety information that came with your lathe or do some reading in the library, Internet, or go to a club meeting and ask around.
If you only have two opposing jaws contacting the blank then it?s too easy for it to wobble off center if you have too much tool pressure or a catch. Try to get as much of that done as possible before parting off, because it?s harder to do once you reverse it. Now the only thing is to turn it down slightly more so the body will fit snugly enough to hold while cleaning up the bottom. At this point it should be obvious that I could have used this piece to jam chuck my body for finish turning, and skipped a step. After the first couple of meetings they elected a president who asked me if I?d write a newsletter. It should also not be too large so as not to fit the chuck or let the backs of jaws protrude much out of the chuck ? they hurt when you contact them. I tend to put those cracky ends in the chuck end, so that I don?t have to contend with them as much in the final piece. Because when your fingers get pinched between the tool and the tool rest, it hurts like the dickens. The newsletter grew into a fifteen-page monster by the time I turned most of that over to our webmaster (thank God!). At any rate, I quickly began to pick up a lot of ideas and information, because in writing articles about woodturning I had to figure out what the demonstrator had actually done.



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