Easy rabbit hutch plans free,building blueprints for free,corner hideaway computer desks for home,outdoor furniture cushions for sale - How to DIY

Whether you want to be a successful rabbit breeder and decide to start your own commercial rabbitry or whether you’re just an ordinary person looking for a small furry animal to lighten up your day; your first and most important step to is to make sure that your rabbits are in good hands. Now here at Crossroads Rabbitry, we have thousands of cages so our setup will be different from most.
Your rabbits should have enough room to sit up and stretch out on their hind legs in the hutch. The hutch should be four times the size of the rabbit, enough to allow the rabbit to move freely. Rabbits should be housed separately, but if kept together the hutches should be divided into different sections. When it comes to the outside of the hutch, the most important consideration is that you don’t want the base of the hutch to touch the ground. Chicken wire is not strong enough to contain a rabbit hutch or even prevent predators from gaining access to your rabbits. Make sure that you have a good pair of wire cutters on hand so that you can adequately cut the wire.
If you are building rabbit housing, you’ll need a tray for their droppings. Drop trays are not mandatory, but they’ll make cleaning beneath the rabbit hutch a much more pleasant experience. Using C-rings, attach the two smaller pieces of wire you cut to one of the longer pieces in order to create the back and sides of the cage.
Take the section of floor wire, the one with the tighter mesh, and use C-rings to attach this to the cage, but not at the very bottom.
Punch holes in the edges of your divider (if applicable) and attach it with C-rings to the inside of the cage. You can now attach the final piece of wire on the very bottom of the cage, which can be used to hold the drop tray. Use your wire cutters to cut an opening at the front of the cage so you can slide the drop trays in and out.
Cut an opening in the front of the cage and be sure to cover the exposed edges with plastic trim. From the spare wire that you have left, cut a piece for your door that is slightly bigger than the hole you made in the cage. So now that you have a better idea of how to build a DIY hutch for your rabbits, what are you waiting for? If you’re thinking about getting a bunny, you should check out my House Bunny page for some basic information. Before I jump into the q&a, I wanted to mention this wonderful resource for potential and new bunny owners.
Q1. Very cute, but having rabbits and having made a cage like this myself, your rabbit is totally going to eat that cute circle divider. A2. I sweep up his poop with a hand broom and dustpan, and use a pan scraper for any occasional stuck on stuff. Q3. It’s actually not a good idea to use a litter box with a metal grate on top – bunnies can get “sore hocks” from the wire.
A4. A pet home should primarily be practical and fit the pet’s needs, but by no means does it have to be ugly! Q8. Sorry, but I think water bottles with the metal spouts sold by pet stores for bunnies are downright CRUEL.
A8. Personally, I don’t see water bottles as cruel, but we have actually switched to using just a water bowl. Q9. I offer this link solely as a suggestion to those who may be looking for a well-designed pre-made enclosure for their rabbit. Q18. As much as I would love my rabbit to be loose at all time, its a little irresponsible for when I go to work. I’m thinking about getting a Holland Lop next summer when i move to another apartment, but is the door secure enough?
I was wondering were you got the wire mesh, my local Home Depot did not have anything like it. Eames has the run of the house during the day too, and he is often sprawled out on his tile or our wood floors. I am so deeply in love with your rabbit hutch and my architect student friend and I have decided to build one for my Holland Lop, Snuggles :) That being said, I have about a million questions.


Hi I was wondering instead of tiling the bottom, could you use a carpet and glue it down or staple it?
The size and shape that you need may vary depending on the number of rabbits that you’d like to keep. You should also keep in mind the age of your rabbit, its present size as well as its full size at adulthood. Remember if you house a male and female together it won’t be long til you have a lot more little rabbits. So instead of chicken wire, we suggest using 14 or 16 gauge galvanized wire that is made specifically for birds or rabbits.
You should also plan to have a Dremel tool or metalworking file tool so that you can remove any sharp edges or protrusions from the wire. Roofing materials such as shingles, plastic, plexiglass, sheet metal, tin etc will add extra protection from the elements and will make your hutch last longer.
Attach the top and bottom. Don’t get carried away and just start attaching everything at once. Attach it about several inches from the very bottom to allow yourself space to add the drop tray. Make sure your divider leaves enough room for your rabbit to move around freely from area to area.
Create a space for the door. Now you have a great cage, but unfortunately nothing can get in or out. Clamp the door to the bunny hutch, and drill four holes through the door and the bunny hutch.
The copper rods for the bottom should only be long enough to go through the hutch, not the door. The House Rabbit Society is a nonprofit organization that rescues rabbits, and educates the public on rabbit care and behavior. Honestly, (being first time bunny owners) we were hopeful that he wouldn’t chew on the centerpiece (wishful thinking).
I also make wipes out of paper towels and a mixture of white vinegar and water to deeply clean the hutch every now and then. Specifically it is an issue when rabbits have no support and are forced to be on the wire all the time.
They are acutely prone to infections of the feet and they need to be able to get up and off the bottom of whatever they live in. In all seriousness though, wet bedding does soften and crack bunny feet which can allow infection.
I wanted to share this great alternative if you didn’t catch it when she posted it on design sponge. Ya, cute idea, and stylish as hell, but the little bunrab is gonna hafta potty sometime and with the glass tile base poor bunny is going to be covered in its own waste since there’s nowhere for it to go or be absorbed (actually, MDF soaks up all kinds of spills, then bubbles and peels) plus, while it may not get a grip on the majority of the cage, the pass-thru is certain to be a toothsome target.
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I think she will be so happy to have such a nice place to sleep when she isn’t running about my room.
The only time the door is closed on his hutch is when we aren’t able to keep an eye on him. I’m in the middle of making my own BESTA bunny hutch (inspired by yourself) and I was just wondering what you would recommend to hold the hay?
You could probably put in carpet, just don’t get anything too plushy (the rabbit might eat it).
This is to ensure that your rabbit hutch will offer clean and safe protection from the natural elements. Now that you have your rolls of wire, it’s time to start cutting and building a cage. Remember that you might want to add a divider (if cage is large enough for two rabbits) and you might want to leave room for a drop tray. The upper copper rods will serve as hinges, and should go through both the door and the hutch.
If you don’t have a handy metalworking grandfather, you could probably use a small cylindrical wooden dowel rod as a pin.


It is important to understand the responsibility of owning a bunny before jumping on the cute bandwagon!Hi Nicole – great work on taking something that’s usually an eyesore and making it a gorgeous addition to a home!
Others voiced concerns about MDF, which is another reason we decided we had to do something, if not just for aesthetic. When we first moved to Boston we had Eames in the extra bedroom, but found that we weren’t giving him enough attention. There is no place he can chew anymore after we completed the modifications, maybe you hadn’t seen them before you posted this comment? My first bunny was incredibly aggressive when I first adopted him and required hours of training, love, and attention to calm down. If you’re worried about Snuggles slipping, you could get a FLOR carpet tile to put down in front.
Although I hoover daily I do worry about getting hay all over the floor if I was to put a hay rack on the door. One of our redesigned plans features legs on this PVC frame so you and your kids can enjoy your rabbit nearly face-to-face. Alternatively, you can purchase a pre-made rabbit hutch from your favorite pet store and then, you can simply build a frame around it. We wanted something simple and inexpensive so we decided that modifying a piece of IKEA furniture would be the easiest way to go about it.
I can’t tell you how many people call me about their outside bunnies wanting to get rid of them. Having a litter box with a wire grate is not an issue, and personally I prefer this kind of potty.
When I have his cage open, I often find him stretched out on the tile in his hutch because it’s nice and cool for him. A wet floor isn’t really an issue with Eames though, he has a littler box and always urinates in it. Oh, and on the subject of hiding cat litter boxes, Ikea Hacker has some awesome posts on that matter! For a few months we kicked him out of his hutch completely, and set up his exercise pen in the living room. This cage looks okay, but I wouldn’t put my rabbit in it…painted wire mesh and particle board, which rabbits like to chew on.
I don’t think there is anything wrong with having a comfortable rabbit friendly environment.
Standing on the wire is really really harsh on feet, and can actually cause a condition known as sore hocks . However, if you like do-it-yourself projects and want to add your own touch to the hutch, it’s a terrific DIY project. Treated lumber will hold up better against the elements but use non-toxic or non treated lumber if the rabbit(s) can come in contact with it.
The door allows us to put it right up to his hutch (the door will open to the inside of the pen) and let him go in and out as he pleases. I love it because its stylish too unlike the ugly wire ones that tend to be too small and I think cruel. They’re feet become raw and red (possibly infected) because of the pressure the wire puts on their feet. It is very versatile, it can be used as a room divider, make any sort of shape, and conveniently folds up when guests are around. He eventually got pretty angry, and started urinating off the side of his litter box (on purpose, the little stinker).
3 He actually likes a little privacy so I never worried about him when he was behind the door.



Diy wooden floor lamp
Painted kitchen cupboards pictures before and after




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