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Trim-A-Slab is a replacement for rotted and old wood typically found between slabs in driveways and sidewalks. Trim-A-Slab is made from a rubber-like material that flexes and holds itself into the gap between concrete slabs. The clean, finished appearance is something your family and your neighbors will notice right away.
A Trim-A-Slab is available in pre-cut rolls, which weigh less than 20 pounds each, so if you do want to install yourself, ita€™s easy to handle.
These are a lot of restrictions, and in addition, if your driveway is sloped, the material will run downhill, and may be difficult to keep where you want it. A The table below summarizes the cost, as well as some of the other factors which should be considered when deciding on a repair for your expansion joints. Trim-A-Slab is available in three colors, cement grey, walnut, and black, at hardware stores in many parts of Texas.
If you run into the occasional nail, a blow to the nail using a pry bar will typically shear it off or bend it out of the way. Most residential driveways and sidewalks were poured with a 1x4 or a 1x3 board used for the forms.
In some cases, slab motion may have been significant, opening up slab gaps to 1" or more.
Description: Expansion joints at roof edges usually occur where an independently supported roof meets a wall. Copper base flashing is double-folded and nailed to the top surface of the curb which is cut to a slope of 3" per foot. The curb shown is double width to provide a broad enough surface for the expansion and contraction in the copper joint and to allow for the nailing of the base.
This condition shows the expansion joint between the head of an independently supported shed roof and a wall.
The copper base flashing's upper edge is formed into a double fold large enough to accommodate the maximum movement.
The copper base flashing's upper edge is formed into a lock and fastened with cleats spaced a maximum of 12" O.C. If the design is for long pan, then expansion of the roof pan relative to the base flashing must also be accommodated at the lock strip and cleat. EIFS synthetic stucco wall systems, and the role of weather and moisture in stucco wall installation, durability, and painting success. Stucco on building exteriors, in its traditional form is a cementious coating, installed over wood lath or more recently over expanded metal wire lath. This article series includes excerpts or adaptations from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss, courtesy of Wiley & Sons. The adobe wall with cement stucco shown below is located in San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexico. Our photograph of stucco coating the exterior of an adobe structure (San Miguel de Allende, Mexico) demonstrates that on these traditional structures stucco was applied directly to the surface of adobe bricks. Unlike the stucco on steel or wood-framed buildings in colder climates, none of the stucco-coated traditional adobe structures I've inspected in several countries has used flashings. Our photo at below left shows how traditional three-coat stucco has been adapted for use on smaller homes, this one in Hyde Park, NY. Our photo (left) shows exposed metal lath in the stucco exterior of a poorly-finished home in New York.
See details about the cause, diagnosis, cure, or prevention of paint failures on stucco exterior walls, discussed at STUCCO FAILURES DUE TO WEATHER.
Moisture, humidity, rain, or wet conditions during thin-coat or EIFS stucco work can lead to a subsequent series of failures of the entire installation. Stucco wall paint failures are also traced to moisture, efflorescence, and failure to adequately clean the exterior and then allow it to dry before painting.
Our photo of a thin-coat stucco wall being constructed (left) was at a Barnes and Noble bookstore in Poughkeepsie, NY. Our thin-coat stucco wall damage photo (above-left) shows the vulnerability of this system to damage by common events at or around a building: in this case the use of a weed-whacker to trim growth close to the building wall. Our photo of a leaky stucco window sill on a New York home (left) shows a damaged, leaky sill where plastic mesh was used as a modern substitute for expanded metal lath. Our photo (left) shows a modern Sto-Wall covered home that was investigated to diagnose the sources of wall leaks through the stucco system. The water running down this building interior wall (photo above-left) was traced to omission of the manufacturer-specified sealant methods at the top of the building exterior wall.
A photo guide to some common leak points found on EIFS clad buildings is at SIDING EIFS WALL LEAK POINTS.
If you are an EIFS manufacturer, installer, or EIFS inspector, contact us at LINK EXCHANGE to add listings - there is no fee. Details about EIFS wall problems, inspections, and litigation are found at SIDING EIFS & STUCCO. Details about the role of drainage systems in preventing leaks and water damage to EIFS-clad buildings can be found at STUCCO EIFS DRAINAGE SYSTEMS. See details about the cause, diagnosis, cure, or prevention of paint failures on stucco exterior walls, found at STUCCO PAINT FAILURES.
We have just had all of the stucco removed and new stucco applied on our home over the last several weeks. The only added information I have is that this recommendation is an anti-fracture BASEX membrane to go in before the final coat of plaster is installed. Merlex BASEX is specifically designed for application over brown coat where smooth-troweled finishes are used (such as Santa Barbara Finish).
In sum, picture a combination of a patented coating compound (modified portland cement) that is applied over a mesh base that in turn has been secured to the building wall.
It's notable that if BASEX is applied without the mesh coating, the promise of reduced cracking is in my words - nullified. Parex Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems (EIFS) also make use of basecoat and other products to reduce cracking as do other manufacturers. I wanted to add some citations on the prevention of stucco cracking, but first must emphasize that proper construction, surface preparation, and importantly, following the stucco system manufacturer's instructions are the key ingredients in a successful job. In general, as Cheple (2000) point out, using polymer additives improves the flexibility of the stucco coating and thus should improve its crack resistance. Continue reading at STUCCO RECIPES & APPLICATION or select a topic from the More Reading links or topic ARTICLE INDEX shown below. Sorry to say I don't have a specific stucco contractor to recommend, and more generally, even when we know of a contractor who has done great work in the past, as they say about the stock market, "past performance is no guarantee of future satisfaction" - I find that crew members and onsite managers can vary from job to job, with varying results even for the same contractor, unless it's a smaller company who always uses the same people.
Where that leads, also unfortunately, is that unless you are working with a known contractor whose worked for you before you pretty much need to learn a little about the topic yourself so that you can protect yourself from the wild arm-wavers who have never even read the instructions on the package.
Watch out: in a New Jersey synthetic stucoo failure court case I attended I was disgusted to hear that the prime contractor simply was ignorant or hasty and omitted critical steps and left out critical materials that would have insured a successful job. Yet when the contractor was challenged by the homeowner's attorney, he told the judge, who knew nothing about stucco, that the omitted steps were simply not included in his stucco job contract.
A typical homeowner would hardly know that something was being omitted from the stucco installation procedure. Question: thinking of buying a home with traditional 3-coat stucco exterior - was re-done over with synethtic, now it's cracking.
I would like to remove all the synthetic stucco coating and get down to the traditional stucco and REDO THE STUCCO ON THE ENTIRE HOME USING TRADITIONAL STUCCO.
Patty, I suspect that the overcoat of synthetic stucco did not include the manufacturer's recommended backer rods, sealants, and protection at penetrations.
I have decided not to proceed with the purchase of this home as there is too much water damage to the parapets.
True home cost = purchase price plus the cost of repairs that are necessary for the home to be safe, functional, and not rapidly deteriorating. If the true cost greatly exceeds the purchase price or the projected near term value of the home once it has been repaired then the deal may not make sense.
Under the aegis of that advice, if you were to decide to buy a home such as the one you describe, your home inspector should form an opinion about the level of risks of leaks into the structure and a possibly costly hidden mold or rot or insect damage problem.
I would not apply stucco to the building without, for the specific stucco method you like, reading the manufacturer's specifications in detail, as they vary.
About stuccoing up to trim, you might want to test that approach on one section of your home. And in any event, review the stucco manufacturer's advice for proper sealing around all of the building trim - leaks into the walls at trim, and trim rot, are common problems on many stucco'ed buildings, both with the traditional stucco methods and with the EIFS methods. I have a bully contractor who has dragged his feet on the job and now is in a hurry to finish a large room and is not even allowing 24 hours between the middle coat and top coat.
Maybe - you need an onsite consultant who is an expert and who can help you deal with your contractor.
Windows and doors and their flashings are installed when the building sheathing is in place. These questions make me worry further that you are building a house with no experienced builder supervising the job. And incidentally, most residential stucco leaks and failures seem to be traced to failure to follow the instructions to the letter.

It's a bit risking giving detailed instructions about a building and site we know absolutely nothing about. But in general, if you are stuccoing over bare wall studs on a building exterior, building sheathing is needed first; probably then you'd use either an EIFS method or a traditional wire lath method. If you are stuccoing indoors on an un-finished wall in a storage shed, there are plenty of options that are quicker and easier, like nailing up plywood or another sheathing board.
My builder said it is normal but it is causing problems with cold air in the winter and hot air in the summer to drastically change the temperature inside my home as well as insects. We build new homes in California and have switched to stucco trim products It is a non foam product. If you mean should there be white effloresence markings or deposits on the exterior, that defect may indicate a leak into the walls or it may indicate improper painting or coating. Question: is there any problem with using a synthetic like STO on the parapets, and traditional stucco everywhere else. My OPINION is that it should be fine to use synthetic stucco for different segments of the construction that abut as you describe *provided* the transitions are flashed, sealed, or otherwise treated per the stucco system manufacturer's specs.
Generally the worst problems with moisture intrusion into synthetic stucco systems is at un-sealed penetrations in the EIFS membrane. Take special care at the juncture of parapet to roof and parapet to wall at its overhang joint. Also check that the cracking you are seeing is not due to poorly-constructed parapets that are sagging or moving. Bruce, I'm not of the OPINION that there is a single right answer to your interesting question. Stucco on block is indeed less vulnerable to impact damage; it's also less vulnerable to moisture leaks into the wall cavity that can occur on some synthetic stucco systems installed on wood-framed walls, but as your walls are solid block the concern is likely minor. There may be an added advantage (depending on where you live) of having some insulation on an otherwise uninsulated block wall.
Linda as I opined to Bruce just above, the truth lies here in the skill and care of workmanship. Complaints about EIFS failures are usually traced to leaks in the system that are usually blamed on the contractor not following the (arduous, demanding, hard to follow in all details) specifications from the manufacturer. Hi, we are living in Noman, Oklahoma and are planning to build a new home in Spanish Revival style over the next year.
Walk around the house during heavy rain to see where water is going and thus what might need repair. Keep 6" or more between the ground surface and the bottom of any siding material that could invite termites or carpenter ants into the structure. With working gutters and downspouts, good surface drainage, and proper ground clearance, and with the wall finish sealed with paint or another approved stucco coating, the remaining splash-up from rain itself ought not be an issue. I have an old building the first floor is block, however the second floor is corrugated fiberglass. Australia's home building and renovation community providing you with access to the largest building forum and premium directory of trade professionals.
Is there any wall wrap behind that brickwork?That noggin should really be replaced as its too short.Doing the brickwork before frame is completed doesn't allow for the inspector to see the external side of the frame.
Commercial EIFS Now you can have both flexible design and thermal efficiency with Facades Commercial EIFSa„?, designed specifically for commercial applications. A A INTROAn air barrier system minimizes the risk of condensation within the building envelope.
Ita€™s virtually maintenance free, and in case you need to run wires across your driveway for Christmas lights or an irrigation system, Trim-A-Slab can be removed and re-installed, no problem. Visit the installation page for all you need to know about installing Trim-A-Slab.A  If you arena€™t the do-it-yourself type, the installation page for a list of installers, who will take care of the whole job for you.
You can replace the wood with new wood, replace it with caulk, or replace it with a filler strip.
You can use one of our installers, or you can pick up some Trim-A-Slab yourself and use your preferred handyman. Trim-A-Slab is very compliant and can be easily cut with shears, so it is not necessary to remove all obstructions. Trim-A-Slab will not crack, get brittle, or be adversely affected by heat or cold typical for a driveway anywhere in the US. Depending on the width of the expansion joint, it may be necessary to widen the curb further.
A continuous copper lock strip is soldered to the base flashing and receives the end of the counterflashing. Stucco systems have been used for hundreds, and in some forms (mud over wood lath), for thousands of years.
Cement stucco is applied directly in one or two coatings to the exterior of the adobe walls. On a building with relatively small unbroken fields of stucco exterior wall, often no expansion joints were used. We observed that the final stucco had been applied over wet surfaces and in some cases over surfaces that also had been troubled by soil that had splashed-up on the building during rainy weather.
Sun, heat, and rapid drying conditions can present special stucco application troubles or subsequent stucco paint coating troubles in hot dry climates such as the American Southwest. This EIFS installation is also installed so close to the ground as to invite insect attack on the structure. Wind-blown rain entered the wall top just below the soffit overhang, wet the wall interior cavity, and finally appeared on the foundation walls below. Our contractor has mentioned the stucco subcontractor recommends a basex flexible membrane be applied prior to our color coat. This is like a thin wire mesh that will limit the amount of cracking and pealing of the final coat of plaster. BASEX is a "Polymer-modified base coat and anti-fracture membrane for smooth-troweled finishes" - so what does that mean? When mesh is embedded in BASEX, cracking is reduced significantly, which allows for higher-quality smooth-troweled finishes. Most of the failures I see are due to installation that does not follow what are sometimes unrealistically demanding instructions. In my OPINION stucco failures such as chalking, cracking, or leaks that are due to poor installation will usually show up in the first year or so, though some leaks such as those in EIFS systems can be a bit hard to spot and can leak into a wall where a mold problem develops for some time before occupants notice the trouble.
I am in the process of taking the old stucco off my house in Brooklyn NY and installing new stucco. He did not follow the stucco installation recommendations nor standards provided by the manufacturer.
The installation contractor omitted key details like backer rods and sealants that would have prevented serious building leaks, water and mold damage. The least the contractor could have been done would have been to point out that omission and recommend how it should be addressed in order to get a successful stucco job.
Once water gets behind synethetic stucco, as you have unfortunately found out, it stays there, causing trouble. A problem with inspecting stucco-covered homes is that there can be hidden damage that does not quickly show up in the forms of cracks, movement, etc. Is it necessary or an "extra." I was going to apply a layer of Tyvek stucco wrap as a water proof membrane then follow std procedure with 2 layers of grade D 60 min paper. You may not like the aesthetics of the windows and doors beginning to recede into the skin of the building.
Here in Florida the standard practice seems to be to apply one coat of stucco directly to the concrete block walls ( no lathe ).
Before repairing the stucco wall by cutting, patching, repainting, it would be a good idea to check with the particular stucco system manufacturer and compare the wall dimensions with their specifications to see if you need one or more control joints.
But for a very detailed exposition on exactly what steps are involved in applying stucco to a building, contact the manufacturer of the stucco system that you are going to use. And as for Chuck, I don't quite get the picture - about the - 2 layers in - but in general, and assuming we're not messing with some wierd combustion air supply scheme, and provided that we are NOWHERE near the firebox itself (as there you want solid masonry, no?) if you seal that leaky air gap with a fireproof material such as wire lath and stucco that should be ok. If nevertheless you want to apply stucco, you might look at the expanded wire lath method.
I purchased a new construction home in southern California where the builder used the one coat stucco system.
I don't know anything about stucco but I do know this is not acceptable to have the framing of my home exposed to the elements. Someone needs to take a closer on-site look at exactly what's going on before prescribing any repair steps.
Since your parapets would not have penetrations (such as for lights, windows, etc) the risk is minimized. For all stucco systems the devil is in the detail of application - did the installer follow the stucco system specifications?
I don't worry about moisture entering the foam boards provided the installer uses the foam board (and all other components and sealants etc) recommended by the manufacturer of the stucco system they are going to use. IF the contractor is very expert in a particular method naturally it's safer to let him or her use the most familiar method. During a back yard reno I found the landscaping elevation was above my walk-out basement floor slab, resulting in seepage and rot beneath the lower portion of my stucco siding.

We have lived in a Spanish Revival house built in 1937 with traditional stucco that has seemed to hold up fairly well.
My 1950s tract house in San Diego, CA had some stucco damage near the bottom in a few areas.
How good would it be to install an apron of gravel, concrete or pavers that meet the house and angle away to direct water away from the stucco?
Then you can be confident in the quality of you home you are paying hundreds of thousands for. Create almost any look while increasing your energy efficiency up to 30% over more traditional building exteriors. It does this by eliminating mass transfer of warm moisture air into the wall assembly to a cold surface where it can condense. Once the cement had cured, it remained to accommodate movement of the slab as it is heated in summer and cooled in winter. For more information on specific products choose from the selection below.and also in two colors, grey and black. Trim-A-Slab is also available by the foot for direct pick-up at our League City distribution center, or through a distributor; please see the 'Distributors' tab for an up-to-date map of retail locations. Please refresh your browser to be sure that the most current data is being loaded by your computer. Black will also make the concrete 'pop' a little, and make it look a little cleaner and brighter. The top surface of the curbs should be sloped away from the joint, to shed condensation and moisture onto the roof.
The lower base flashing is formed into a lock large enough to accommodate the maximum expansion, as shown. A continuous copper lock strip is soldered to the pans at least 4" below the pan's upper edge. Our second photo (below-right) shows an insulating-board based Stucco-wall expansion joint on an elevator tower on the Vassar College campus, Poughkeepsie, NY. As a result there were significant leaks into building walls and a considerable mold contamination issue as well. BASEX contains a high percentage of polymer for flexibility, microscopic fibers for crack-resistance, and proprietary additives for workability and working time. Most contractors I have spoken to have a blank stare when it comes to the true installation process.
They seem to use various trim pieces or corner moldings out of styrofoam ( i think ) or plastic.
I'd also double check that the cracking is only in the stucco, not in the underlying masonry block walls. Every stucco system manufacturer provides very detailed and clear specifications for how their product should be installed. So is there a bonding agent or membrane I should apply before trying to get the parging to adhere to the wall? We have trouble with cracks that develop mainly on the parapets, which protrude out a few inches for a decorative effect. People who have put synthetic over traditional have not had problems over a couple years, but I wonder what will happen in the long run. I removed the lower 24 inches of stucco and from that determined 16 inches of rotted boarding needed to be replaced, which I did with green treated plywood. Our builders have used EIFS with drainage for years on wood frame homes and prefer that over traditional stucco.
Is the rain (plus four more days rain) going to have significant impact on the timber frame since we have not got our roof tiles on frames are totally expose to the rain?2. And I noticed you mentioned the lowest course of bricks on the side wall doesn't align with the remaining courses. From the pictures you have posted there's no distinguishable gap, say for example, .Check your structural plans for where these joints (sometimes called articulation joints) should be.
See the brick work at garage area, is it normal no timber frame in the garage area but only brick? The grey material is color-matched to concrete, and will blend in with clean, dry concrete.
Insulation is often used in the expansion space, but is left out of the details for clarity. It extends at least 8" up the wall, where it is inserted into a reglet or in the joint between masonry courses. Here the most common failure I see is adhesion loss, usually when rain water penetrates the stucco wall coating. I am wondering what real benefits we will gain or what disadvantages we will experience if we do not go with this option. The stucco is cracking open at the vertical corners, probably from heat expansion of the plastic. I am wondering if there is any problem with using a synthetic like STO on the parapets, and traditional stucco everywhere else. After a rain, concrete darkens, which will make the grey appear to stand out and look lighter than it really is.
The upper edge of the counterflashing is held by a copper receiver, which is set in the brick joints.
BASEX can also be used on rescrubs directly over structurally sound existing plaster, eliminating the need for sandblasting. We would use an accent color for the parapets, probably a darker shade of the cement stucco color, so we do not have to worry about trying to match the cement stucco. The first is using foam board adhered to the existing walls with galvanized nails and then scratch and stucco layers applied. One issue is there is no room beneath the exiting stucco to allow for a proper lap of the horizontal seam of the new house wrap. We have 4 definite seasons with hot summers often over 100 degrees and cold winters with freezing temperatures. The house' roof has a small overhang and no gutters, so the rain hits close to the foundation and had caused a trough that fills with water when it rains substantially. Is it because builder have to use some other bricks for the slab holding purpose while my selected brick has not arrive? So yes no problem to start doing the wall before the roof trusses are complete and with the garage as they have said they will build some support columns. All the same problems explained above with new wood remain as well, so weeds will establish themselves in the cracks, and in a few years the process will have to be repeated. If the wall is an existing one, the mortar joint is raked to a depth of 1" and the copper receiver is inserted, wedged, and sealed.
The upper edge of the base flashing is formed into a loose lock large enough to accommodate the maximum movement and fastened with cleats at 12" O.C. EIFS and synthetic stucco wall systems, success, issues, inspection, and problem diagnosis. My hope is that the synthetic would have more resistance to cracking, but I would not need to worry about moisture being trapped by the synthetic if it is just being used on the parapets. The second quote is to powerwash the existing walls, chip away any loose material and then apply mesh with galvanized nails, scratch and stucco layers. I have however attached the new house wrap as tight as possible against the lower edge of the existing stucco.
Brick layer said they will build additional brick column to support roof truss on garage therefore no timber frame.4. And the repaired area will be parged rather than trying to match the 20 year old stucco colors.
Now I am trying to prevent the new stucco from taking up water from the soil and mud splashing onto the stucco when it rains. Or is there a sealant I could use to mitigate the potential problems of not haveing a proper underlap ?
Also Consider the effects of air tightness on mechanical ventilation.This doc contains the specifications for this System.
These specifications follow a 3 part format.TAILOR OUR specificationsThese specifications cover all the ways that you can use the EIFS (Exterior insulation and finishing system) System. The project design pros are responsible for ensuring that the project specifications are suitable. This spec is to be used with EIFS (Exterior insulation and finishing system) system detail drawings and product data sheets etc. For assistance in preparing your spec contact us.UNITSEnglish Units are included in parentheses after the Standard International (SI) equivalents. The conversions represent commonly used equivalents.WARNINGAn air barrier should not be confused with a vapor retarder. A vapor retarder should not be used in warm humid climates.DISCLAIMERInfo in this spec is to standard detail and product recommendations for the install of the EIFS (Exterior insulation and finishing system) System.

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