Fine woodworking glue test results,knotted wooden plank project zomboid,woodworking projects dining tables online - Easy Way

A weak joint will split in the glueline, either because the glue was too thick or the glue didn’t penetrate the wood correctly.
Wet both surfacesIt is important to get even, continuous glue coverage on the surfaces to be bonded, so apply yellow glue to both surfaces when you can. How strong is your glueline?Even if you have used the correct pressure, it is still reassuring to make sure that you are achieving well-glued joints. The main drawback is the extra effort involved in mixing two parts, judging needed amount before hand and being limited by "pot life", time, and somewhat higher expense. Instead of dovetails or other right-angle joinery I simply miter the joint, and glue end grain to end grain. For instance the sides a drawer can be made by laying the four panels on the work table, end to end, inside faces down.
From my own gluing experiences, I think that how well the joint fits before the glue is applied, along with proper glue application technique, are both likely to affect the long-term strength of the joint much more than the kind of glue that was used. In my limited experience, the 2-layer method of glue application matters mostly in situations where the wood tends to "wick" away the glue, usually only in end-grain glue-ups or rotten wood. Look for these joints in, for example, fast cabinet face frames with pocket-mortised butt joints, or in very small picture frames which might not require stronger joinery such as splines.
Also, in most cases I have seen, two layers of glue on an edge glueline is just a liability; the first drier layer of glue is more likely to make bumps and high spots to hold your joint apart than it is to stabilize your glue surface. I'll welcome any corrections, additions, or just plain educated flames to this post, and I hope I've helped answer a little. I have seen some people apply a light layer of glue; then they wait a few minutes for it to start to dry and then they apply a second heavier layer.
Instructions that are easy to follow!  Not only that, the blade comes wrapped in a piece of paper that some great sharpening instructions on them. After the glue dried, I shaped it, trued the sole, opened the mouth a bit, and sharpened the blade. A big note about shaping the plane: I strongly recommend that you mill up some scrap to the same size as the shoulder plane and test out shapes on it.
Woodworker Opa writes: While I have not done the Hock Shoulder Plane, I have done a couple of his other kits and I have done several Krenov style planes from "skratch". Benito9 writes: Matt, Can you give me your opinion on how practical it might be to modify the Hock kit into a moulding plane?
It's hard to tell, but in the last pic it looks like you've put a light chamfer on the long edges of the sole?? A simple test is to place a sharp chisel exactly on the glueline, and strike it with a mallet.
This provides instant wetting of both surfaces without relying on pressure and surface flatness to transfer the glue from one surface to the other.
The time varies from species to species, with woods that have an even density across the growth rings, such as maple, requiring less time. Allow to soak in 'till dry to the touch and then apply the glue full strength to both surfaces and clamp. So I think the take-home lesson is that it's POSSIBLE to create a strong, long-lived glue joint with hide glue, but without knowing how many glue joints were made that didn't survive through the years, we can't even say that it's PROBABLE that a joint made with hide glue will last a long time.


Since hopefully you're not spending a great deal of time gluing rotten wood with yellow glue, it'll matter most to you on end-grain joints.
As you know, end-grain gluelines are far weaker than edge and face joints, but sometimes you will find that full dowels, splines, shaped joints, biscuits, or various other methods are too time consuming for a quick project requiring little joint strength. Titebond I yellow glue has been around for about 55 years, II for less than 20 years, and waterproof Titebond III for 6 years. It is amazing how many of the really old pieces don't have glue failure no matter how hard you try to break them at the glueline. Check in every weekday for news, information, projects, and answers to questions from Fine Woodworking readers everywhere. Please upgrade to a different browser or install Google Chrome Frame to better experience this site.
Typically, I only make one when I can't find what I want out in the land of commerce (like these planes or this marking gauge). You want the plane to be comfortable to hold and that shape you think looks cool may not be comfortable.
I've been unsuccessful in my search for a moulding plane matching a specific profile for a window sash meeting rail. The two most popular bevel-up metal body shoulder planes (LN and LV) have cutting angles of 43 and 40 degrees respectively. You will, however, have to work fast as the open time for yellow glue can be around five minutes at a temperature of 70O F (21O C) and relative air humidity of 50%. But in general, the glueline reaches around 80% of its ultimate strength after 60 minutes of clamping. Indeed, even with the first layer of prep glue on an end-grain joint, I RUB small amounts of glue onto the surface, wiping off any excess to avoid obscuring the actual joint surface, leaving the joint with no glue lying on or above the wood. With a wooden plane, you can personalize the body however you want, just make sure it's still comfortable to use. However, when I saw that Hock Tools now sells a shoulder plane kit, I thought I'd give it a try.
By the time you've done that, you've essentially done all of the work you would have done to make one yourself. And if you really want to be fair to Hock Tools, make sure you factor in the cost of the time you spend buying, milling, and otherwise working the wood to get to the point they do.
I am slowly getting into hand tools due the cost and I felt this was a great option to get Hock quality and it takes the guess work out of the machining the parts.
The kit comes with a blade that has been shaped and heat treated properly, not a "piece of metal".
After this, joints can be released from the clamps, but the full glue strength won’t develop for about 24 hours. If I remember correctly, he feels if several boards are glued, this amount of glue gives longer working time. The first layer of glue tends to soak quickly and deeply into the joint, which can starve the glueline nearly instantly. Because it's a bevel down blade, it handles long grain well, so you can trim grooves and rabbets.


However, the thin first coat that quickly dries will saturate the wood fibers to prevent soaking or wicking, but still provide a bonding surface for your second coat of glue.
It is just a couple of angled cuts a curved mouth which could be drilled out with a Forstner bit.
The 2 pieces of Jatoba, for example, have a unique shape that would be a pain to mill accurately in the average shop. I've also been contemplating the possibility of making a rabbet plane, which isn't too far off from a shoulder plane, so I thought Hock's plane might give me some good ideas. That's part of the reason a tool made overseas can cost much less than the same tool made here in the US.
This kit is perfect for someone who has woodworking experience, but minimal experience making tools. David Finck recently did an article explaining how to make a smoothing plane that way (in FWW #196, "Wooden Planes Made Easy"). My plane's throat tends to get clogged, and it's tough to get a finger in there and pull them out.
A slightly bigger opening would solve the first problem, and I wouldn't need to worry about my finger getting in there. There was a point (I've only barely gotten past it) when I couldn't afford tools and I wanted to know if the Hock plane was a viable option for others in that position.
Now, I'm the type of guy who is not afraid to modify a tool, and I'll enlarge the opening myself. Well, now that you know why I decided to give it a try, let's get on with my review.I'll start with building the plane, because, well, I started with building the plane.
I suppose you could count that as part of the fine tuning that needs to be done to get the plane working great, but I'd rather not have to do it.As with all wooden planes, adjusting the blade depth is a delicate dance. It's one that some folks glide through like Fred Astair, but which others execute with all the grace of a drunken fraternity brother. But it's still a bigger hassle than setting blade depth on my metal body shoulder plane.In the end, the plane is a great value. With a little bit of sweat equity you get a shoulder plane that works well and that's a fair trade to save close to $100.
Line up the parts, clamp or tape them together, drill four holes for alignment pins, and then glue it together. Both of the beech sides in my kit were slightly cupped, not surprising given that these parts came across the entire country to get from California to Connecticut. Before you glue up the parts, make sure you'll be able to remove any cupping with clamping pressure. You want those glue joints to be nice and tight, because the parts are pretty much at final dimensions. That means that if you remove any thickness from the sides to make them flat, you'll probably have to grind the blade down too.



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