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Ensure that the two sides are mirror images of each other, with the back panel grooves located on the inside faces of the rear stiles.
After the entire cabinet is dry, you’ll need to reinforce the joints between the bottom panel and the sides.
The base is built to cradle the bottom of the cabinet on three sides, supporting the back of the cabinet completely on a solid strip.
Begin by cutting the base front piece and two base side pieces to size according to the materials list. Apply a thin layer of glue on the front of the edging at the front of the cabinet, then slide the base in place and clamp it flush at the front and back.
The doors have a simple half-lap design and feature square pegs to help lock everything together. The mullions interlock with more half-lap joints, but these ones are a little more finicky to cut because they’re small.
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To start, cut four stiles and four rails, then install a 1″-wide dado blade in your tablesaw.
Cut mullion pieces to length, then lay them out on your bench and mark locations for the joints. Once the finish is fully cured, rub the entire cabinet with #0000 steel wool, then apply two coats of paste wax buffed to a subtle sheen. With a sacrificial backer board to reduce tearout, cut the first half of each tenon in two passes. Test-fit the parts, and once satisfied with the fit, it’s time to drill holes for the shelf supports.
With a small brush or stick, spread the glue inside the grooves so it’s on all three surfaces, then insert the rails into one stile, slide the panels in, then attach the other stile. I prepared these by tilting the blade on my tablesaw and using a mitre gauge to support the wood.
Next, apply a thin layer of glue to the mitre faces and spline grooves on the base sides as well as on the ends of the base rear piece. The grooves should prevent most squeeze-out, but any that does occur can be removed easily from the glass with a razor blade after it has fully cured. You might want to know how things will eventually plays out if you have the plans for the workbench that you have. Attach the front top rail permanently with a couple of pocket-hole screws per side, orienting the rail so the pocket holes are on the top face.
While you’re at it, make plenty of extra mullion stock in case some break during the next step. You’ll get perfect squares every time–just make sure you remove the auger bit from the centre of the mortiser chisel first.


Place the glass into the rabbets in the door frames, and hold each piece in with glazing strips. Smooth this edge with either a hand plane or some 150-grit sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. When you want to make the plan about it, then you need to understand how you want to make it.
I then clamped the template centred on the stiles and marked each hole with a centre punch to keep the bit from wandering when I start drilling.
Put glue in the grooves and on the two ends of the plywood base and insert the plywood back panel into the bottom groove. Apply glue, and position so it is flush with the top surface of the ply and overlaps the front edges of the sides completely. Mill full-length grooves on the inside edges of the stiles, then, without changing your machine set-up, lay the rear stiles, inside face down, and mill another full-length groove on the inside rear face of the rear stiles to accept the back panel. Once all hole locations are marked, attach a temporary fence to your drillpress table and bore all shelf-support holes.
Next, slide the side assemblies over the edges of the back panel, keeping the bottom of the sides flush with the bottom of the plywood.
You can start picturing it on your mind, and then you opened up your computer and start the ideas that you have in there.
Install the front rail and clamp everything together, check for square, then allow the glue to dry.
Just try to make that ideas come reality and you will need a computer to do it because it will make things much easier than if you do it with your hands and papers.
However, you need to choose the software with sufficient tools because it will be useless if you are using cheap and bad software.When you want to have the free woodworking workbench plans, then you must start today. The plans that you are making cannot be done in a single day, it takes all the efforts that you have if you want to have the best design that you can think of.
You can do it, you just need to believe in yourself and do not give up in the middle; you need to try to finish it when you have the plans. Just like in any effort for anything that you do, there will be obstacles that you need to overcome. Now, the workbench that you want to make or buy must have certain criteria that you surely want.



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