How to build a barn door slider,how to make a desktop shortcut for a website in google chrome,amish furniture manufacturers ontario,wood outdoor storage box plans nz - Easy Way

We bought a house with far more bedrooms than we needed, but it didn’t have an accessible office. I used premium grade pine (1×2) to create a frame around the entire door to hide unfinished edges, and then created a farm style design on top of the planks using a wider pine board.
Barn doors are much larger than normal doors, so if you're seeking to build one, you need to take the weight and support into account more seriously. Lay a 2-by-6- board across the other boards, perpendicular to their direction and 1 foot down from what will be the top of the door.
Lay another 2-by-6-board parallel to the first one, about 1 foot up from what will be door's bottom. Working from underneath the 1-inch boards, drive screws through them and into the 2-inch thick crosspieces. Lay the 10-foot-long, 2-by-6-board between the two crosspieces diagonally, so it extends from one end of the lower crosspiece to the opposite end of the upper crosspiece. Cut along these lines so that the diagonal brace will fit in between the horizontal crosspieces, in a way that the three pieces make a "Z" shape. Drive screws through the 1-inch thick boards, which make up the door's front, into the 2-inch thick diagonal brace. Build a sliding barn door in the same way as you would build a swinging barn door, with the following exception. Hanging a door takes a bit of finesse but it's a rewarding task when completed satisfactorily. A custom sliding barn door wall system features plenty of shelf space for storage in this urban basement.
A Barn Door Tracker mount is an inexpensive and very effective solution for taking long exposures of the night sky without producing star trails. UPDATED DESIGN: After using the original design with some great results, I recently found some areas where big improvements could be made, including camera placement and laser polar alignment.
Using a pivoting drive bolt increases the mount’s accuracy (and tracking time) by around 3-4 times over a regular fixed-position (tangent) drive bolt.
The completed pivoting drive bolt can be mounted by drilling a hole (roughly 20mm in diameter) through the top board. A small washer (or small nut) should then be glued on to the bottom board where the dome nut meets the bottom board. The barn door tracker can also be built using an M6 sized drive bolt instead of the M8 size shown. Many sites recommend using the second hand of an analogue watch to keep time (by mirroring the position of the second hand around the clock face). I realised it’d be easier to take eyesight out of the process by playing a beep at set intervals, indicating when the handle should be at the next point.
My first attempt gave some poor results, with the stars forming little circles or semi circles (depending on the exposure length). The camera can be mounted anywhere on the top board, but should have as much room for manoeuvre as possible as it can be tricky to frame subjects. Although not necessary for wide angle shots or shorter exposures, adding a laser or a finder scope to the tracker will increase your polar alignment accuracy over the regular sighting tube (see polar alignment section).
Of the two, I prefer the green laser option as it doesn’t involve grovelling on the floor or contorting your body trying to look through the scope. For best visibility the laser should be green as most other colours (especially red) will be too difficult to see.


Warning: Although polar alignment will only take a few seconds with the laser method, it’s worth saying that it may make you a bit conspicuous! Many modern lenses don’t have distance scale which makes manual focusing tricky, especially in the dark.
If the temperature is much lower outdoors than it is indoors, you should allow 20 minutes or so for your lens to adapt to the new temperature before you focus the lens, as the infinity focus point of lenses changes with temperature.
Shooting in RAW maximises the data held in the images, giving much better results with the stacking process.
When you’re out in the dark the images can look overexposed on the camera screen, so I turn the brightness down.
The offset of the NCP from Polaris is handily in the direction of the brightest star in Ursa Minor, which can be used as a wide-view guide to make sure you’re aligned in the right direction.
Living in a remodeled farmhouse we have lots of little nooks and crannies that I’m always trying to make function better. For the track we used a piece of tongue and groove lumber that we had left over from another project. My husband is very traditional and automatically thought we would be putting double french doors in – I had a different vision.
Nate and Michelle from DECOR and the DOG, came up with an easy and affordable way to add Board and Batten to their home. Barn doors that swing out need to be mounted on large and strong hinges, and sliding barn doors need to be properly balanced and hung on high-quality hardware. Lay them on a bench or table so that the ends of the boards are hanging off the sides of the table with the undersides accessible. Cut along this line with a circular saw to make the top and bottom of the door square and even. This will allow you to attach the wheels that run along the sliding door track to the crosspiece, rather than to the ends of the 1-inch boards. But after looking into the cost of all the components (accurate stepper motor, arduino, motor controller and suitable gears would come to around ?80-100 altogether), along with the complexity of building the circuits, coding the arduino and finding the right gears – you may as well put the money towards a dedicated tracking platform instead!
Fortunately any mounts built to the original design can easily be adapted to the new layout. This makes composing much easier and improves the tracking performance through better balance. For this a 9mm diameter hole should be drilled into the side of the top board to a depth of at least 5cm.
Shown below is the simplified solution I arrived at after struggling with a clumsy pivot assembly design described online.
This allows the drive bolt to remain seated in exactly the same place while the handle is rotated.
The best option is to use a piano hinge available here which can cover the full width of the boards, be cut to the correct size and so spread the load evenly.
In fact an M6 version has the potential to be more accurate than the M8 version due to the finer thread. I always felt this was a bad idea as it’s hard to see the watch in the dark, let alone the second hand!
I created an audio file to do this which can be played on a loop via a phone or MP3 player to do its job of time keeping. I used a sample sized sheet of glow in the gark vinyl, which glows for several hours after a second or two under torch light.


Placing it nearer to the hinge is advisable as this reduces the load on the handle, and prevents the handle from getting in the way of the camera.
It also makes things easier as you can see the entire sky, allowing you to get your bearings and attain a good alignment much quicker. If you don’t have a finder scope bracket for the laser, you can build one by simply drilling a hole lengthways through a column of wood to accommodate the laser with a few mm of room on all sides.
The most accurate method I’ve found is to use live view to zoom in and focus on a star of medium brightness. To prevent this I use PVC insulation tape on the lens to strap the focus ring in place and stop the focus from shifting.
These photos go to prove that you don’t need to spend thousands of pounds on a telescope and an expensive mount. With the laser or finder scope this usually takes less then a minute, but you have to know exactly where the North Celestial Pole (NCP) is (and be able to see it – the stars are pretty faint) to get good alignment. I'm wondering, now that it's been over a year since install, how is the tongue and groove board holding up? I wasn’t happy with the second finish and sanded down the whole thing and started all over. Thicker wood will make the door more effective at keeping heat in, but will also make it heavier. This should be done parallel to the hinge, around 4cm along, as shown in the diagram below (click for larger view).. The main pivot is constructed from an M8 size barrel nut available here which slots into a 12mm hole drilled into the side of the upper board of the mount, making it more robust and accurate. Drilling a second hole (12mm diameter) in the side of the upper board to intersect the larger hole (as pictured) allows the barrel nut to be slid into place, and the drive mechanism to be positioned.
The smaller size hinge also gives less play and greater accuracy of movement compared to something like a door hinge. This is probably the one change which had the biggest impact on accuracy and consistency of shots.
With this you can cut out a series of markers, then using a protractor place them around the path of handle at 30 degree intervals (5 seconds on a clock face).
The laser or scope can then be adjusted in the bracket until they both point exactly at the same target star.
If you don’t have live view, autofocusing on a distant object before the sun sets works well.
This exposure of the Orion Nebula with a 180mm f2.8 lens shows how well the barn door tracker works, even with subjects near the celestial equator.
All of the photos in this gallery were taken by me in a light polluted back garden, with a standard SLR camera and the ?10 barn door tracker.
Take a seat and cruise on over to her blog for this makeover, and her well behaved kitties. Again, I’ve seen lots of trackers online, but none of them seem to have this simple addition. The orange lines on the right side highlight the group of stars which act as a sort of arrow.



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