How to build a custom front door,hammock bed with stand,zookeeper toy storage - How to DIY

I love me a good knock off, so when my good friend Lindsay from Makely invited me to be a part of Knocktoberfest 2013, I was stoked.
I think TV’s can be so big and ugly and since we are redoing our master bedroom right now,  making a TV frame for our room was on our to do list.
Tools: Miter Saw, Brad Nail Gun and Brads, Spade Bit and Drill, Table saw if you need to cut your MDF {but the awesome guys at Home Depot rip cut ours for us}. Wood supplies: MDF {amount will vary based on the size of your TV}, Crown Molding {again amount will vary}, and 1 2X4. After you have the inside box built, place it around your television to make sure it fits before you go any further! As you can see, we drilled holes all around the frame with a spade bit for a couple of reasons. After that, your frame should be ready to caulk all the spaces between the different boxes and fill all the nail holes. Make sure you prime the frame with Kilz spray primer before you paint, since MDF tends to suck up paint.
I love this idea, because it makes the TV feel artsy and on display instead of the giant piece of electric appliance that it is… HA! We have fun with woodworking no matter what the project is, but the most rewarding thing for us is making our own furniture.  Let’s say you wanted a solid oak bookcase but didn’t have the four to six hundred bucks a retail store would want for one. Smaller bookcases will of course be cheaper, but this is about as large as you’d want to go, so we’re giving a worst-case scenario here. A bookcase is basically a five-sided box with the front part open, so to begin constructing one, first cut the pieces for the first four sides. Once the router is set up, mark the six-foot area on the board where you’d like the two rails to go, and do the same for the other sideboard.
You won’t have this kind of access to the inside of these sideboards again, so now might be a great time to hit them with a bit of sanding. You could do the layout manually, but cultist pro is a great tool, and free for something this small. BobboMax Fankhauser { The RockRipper isn't for pros- if you can't rip with a tape, you're a semi-pro at best. Jered { If you are going to stain raw wood, then you should condition the wood, then use the stain of your choice. Why not use your entire hand as the paddle?A  You can have more control since the paddle has really become part of the player.A  While these are actually a retail product, you could pickup a few used paddles and create your own in a few minutes.A  Cool idea! Building a range hood was not exactly the most exciting part of the kitchen renovation but it was quick, cheap, and more importantly the last construction project in the kitchen!
Cody put the whole thing together so quickly that I wasn’t able to get any good construction pictures so bear with me here.
Here’s what the front of the hood looked like with just the top piece of plywood missing. Once all the plywood had been attached, Cody used more stain grade plywood to create a boarder around the front of the range for a board and batten look.
Use a fan like this instead, kitchen vents need more powerful ventalation and are recommended vent via a pipe of at least 6 inch diameter. Trending on Instagram Follow Stephanie's board Simply Swider Blog on Pinterest. However, as is the case these days, it is very hard to find the wall panels that you feel would be ideal, or perfect for your homes.
This would give your panels and house a standout feature, and would also help you do something productive. The first thing to do is to take some pieces of plywood and to then go on and make markings on them to the size of each panel that you would want to use. You can then take some chalk and draw out the lines of the panels, making sure that each panel is the same size.


You now need to go on and cut out some decorative molding that you would be applying to your panels. Finish up by scraping off any rough edges and filling in any areas that you feel need more smoothening. So, first of all, let’s just pause for a moment to talk about the fact that you all rocked my metaphorical socks off last week when we shared the Grand Reveal of our Rustic Nautical Master Bedroom Makeover. I braced myself for whatever responses would come our way; even if you asked for my resignation as DIY blogger. Then, you all had the nerve to blow my expectations out of the water with some of the most enthusiastic and supportive comments we have ever received…ever. Alright now I’m going to actually hush up for once (what?!) and let my husband take over the rest of this blog post. And without any further ado, I give you my hubby, Mark, with the full run-down of How to Build a Custom King Size Bed Frame!
The basic design features side and end rails bolted onto the outside of 3″ vertical posts. As you draft up your plans, pay attention to the total height of the bed, considering the thickness of your box spring and mattress. Quick-grip clamps are helpful here to hold the pieces together while you place the bolts through and tighten them loosely with your fingers or a couple turns of the wrench.
When it is square, you can place one or 2 temporary diagonal braces to hold the rails at 90 degrees. I cut a 2×4 just long enough to catch the 2 side rails, and set this vertically (like a roof truss) underneath the side rails. Back the bolts up so that the ends protrude to the outside and there’s no extra bolt hanging over on the inside of the post.
First, the 2 of you should raise the headboard upright, standing it on its legs (made of a 2×3).
Have your helper push or pull until it is perfect, then hold in place while you tighten up those 4 bolts. I think it works better if you do this 5th post as step 10, rather than with step 6, which is why it is here. As for your mom putting us up to our kind comments, Lauren… the room really does look like something from a magazine, only better because it also looks real. Also, your comment about the room looking REAL and comfortable and livable and inviting…well, all your words just cut straight to my heart.
In fact, when it went on clearance a few years back, I wasted an entire afternoon calling every Pottery Barn in the Western U.S.
MDF and crown molding, so you will need to go to the nearest home improvement store {unless you are like us and are molding hoarders….then just go to your garage and rummage through the pile}.
This measurement will vary depending on the size of the first box and the size of the crown.
I wish I would have been a little more careful when I caulked the gaps because it wasn’t super smooth when it dried.
We painted our frame Krylon Jade to go along with our Master bedroom makeover that is currently underway! You can achieve the same effect for less than half the cost, using a bit of solid oak trim and some veneered ply.
Though we strongly urge you to design for what suits your needs best, in our case we wanted a tall bookcase with a maximum of storage space. Even paying retail this totals to somewhere in the neighborhood of $190 plus the rail system which will run about $8. Take care not to strip the screws out when tightening them, or your shelves won’t carry much weight. Be sure to subscribe to HacknMod so you don’t miss out on similar posts in the future.


All that’s left to do now is replace the stove and the kitchen will be officially complete.
Originally there had been an over the range microwave in this area so luckily for us all the electrical was already in place.
Because of the angle the plywood had to be cut into strips and attached individually rather than as one piece.
This is because the wall panels are designed for the general public and not for specific houses. However, if you need some special sized panels for specific areas, you should make measurements for those as well.
Make sure you get the dimensions right while cutting it out, or you could end up having some problems later on. Make sure you secure the molding on the panels via nails and then fill out the holes with fillers, paint or putty. After you have done this, go on and attach the panel to the walls, making sure that you keep in mind the location of the wall studs. BRACING.  When you are sure it is square (I can’t over-emphasize how important that step is), go ahead and place cross-braces and tighten up all bolts. SUPPORTING.  For a large bed like a king, you will probably want a fifth post in the center. We wanted our frame to be really big and chunky since it is the for the TV in our bedroom and will only viewed from straight on. I have been pinning all the TV frames I can find for months, and this is the best one I have seen yet! The vent holes go across the entire top of the frame, so when the you slide the frame onto your mounted blocks, you only cover up a small portion.
We are happy to hear that our KILZ aerosol primer helped you create an adorable frame for your television. We calculated that this setup will hold about twice as many books as most units on the market, so that was a big bonus. With 80-grit and a little time, we gave each piece we’d cut a good once-over to get rid of the pencil marks and rough spots.
Next, Cody used joint compound to fill in all the nail holes and the seams between the plywood pieces.
Once that was dry we gave it a good sanding then one coat of primer and two coats of paint with the paint that was matched to the cabinets. For now, just put them through the bed posts and side rail, since we’ll add the headboard later.
Before placing the left-right brace (when the bed frame is still just an open rectangle), you need to make sure the bed is a rectangle and not a parallelogram (perhaps you haven’t heard these words since 9th grade geometry?). If you are making your frame for a living room TV that has seating from different angles, you might want to make it smaller so it doesn’t stick out so far. As you can see, my hubby didn’t want anything to happen to the precious TV that shows all Red Sox games. Make sure when cutting your crown molding that you follow the correct angles and miter angles on your saw to be able to create the box. The top of the frame will be out of sight also when hung on the wall, so it also has many holes drilled for ventilation.
How long was your 2×4, and did you mount it flat against the wall (with the wide side on the wall), or sticking out like a shelf (with the skinny edge against the wall)?
On the bottom right you can see the new switches we added to control the fan and the lights.



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